Lost & Found: Lisboa
1-3 June 2007

As this was Huy's birthday weekend, we purposely avoided fado (too depressing in his opinion) but sampled the many other delights of this sunny waterside city.

Eat at:

  • Eleven, the only Michelin-starred restaurant in town. Dine out on nine courses of tasty morsels alongside a spectacular view over Eduardo VII park and the ocean beyond. Even though it was a set menu, they were able to accommodate my non-veal non-foie gras diet. Save room for dessert! It wasn't just petit fours, it was petit twenty-fours.
  • Pasteis de Belem for the original Portugese custard tarts. Although strictly not Lost and Found, as it's in every guide book, I highly recommend the tarts. I went twice, each time unable to stop at one tart. In fact, I managed to eat four or five tarts/pastries a day for the three days I was Lisbon.
  • When in Portugal, must have Portugese chicken. Bonjardim (there are two opposite each other) passed the mark of a good chicken restaurant - much lip smacking and exclamations of "It's better than Nandos!".

Drink at:

Lux - a red-lit 2 storied warehouse club part-owned by John Malkovich. It costs 10 euros to get in but comes back to you in 1.5 mojitos. Music was dull generic house but that meant heaps of room on the dance floor.

Shop at:

  • Anywhere in Barrio Alto. I loved the unique little boutiques selling streetwear and vintage, I loved the cool salespeople lounging by the doorway smoking cigarettes nonchalantly. Check out Sneakers Delight while you're there - they let you colour in the walls!
  • Feira da Ladra Market. Lots of Portugese tat (bright yellow chicken oven mitts?) but also lovely antiques. Many of the same stores also go to the Mercado da Ribeira on the waterfront.
  • Zara/Mango/H&M. Portugal is the home of European textiles and shoemaking, which means any European brands are going to be cheaper here than anywhere else.

Try to:

  • Wander around the streets of Alfama, the old Jewish quarter. You'll see how real people live, and maybe see an enormous basket of crawling little snails for sale like we did.
  • Again, not really a Lost and Found, but still a must do. Catch the number 28 tram for a roller-coaster trundle through Lisbon's narrow streets.

Interesting sights when you get lost:

Barrio Alto has lots of witty, interesting street art. Wear something photogenic and decorate the walls with your presence.

                                            

 A tiny wood-panelled store in Barrio Alto that sold religious and non-religious candles, in all shapes, colours and sizes. The store window had a queer pieta candle and other religious motifs with wicks.

Restaurante Eleven - Jardim Amália Rodrigues, Rua Marquês da Fronteira, Parque Eduardo VII

Pasteis de Belem - Rua de Belem no 84

Bonjardim - Travessa de S. Antão 11

Lux - Rua Gustavo Matos Sequeira 42, Santa Apolônia, 1900

Sneakers Delight - Rua do Norte, 30-32, Barrio Alto

Feira da Ladra Market - Campo de Santa Clara at the eastern edge on Alfama