Tree and lawn Spraying

As a ISA Certified Arborist, and a licensed commercial pesticide applicator (License # 4001-13008 and 4000-703) I take your trees and lawn health very seriously.  Prior to any spraying, I sample the effected tissues and submit them to the Utah State Diagnostics lab, to confirm the problem is correctly identified.  This usually takes 2 weeks or less.  I'm a strong believer in "treatment without diagnostics is malpractice". Nothing good happens quickly in the tree care health process.  I use a degree day methodology to determine the best time to spray for selected pest.  Degree-day methodology is based upon the life cycle of the pest and the development of its various life stages (called instars by our most learned professionals) based upon the amount of days in which the day temperature gets above 55 degrees. Part of this process is the identification of the various stages in its life cycle and spraying the least toxic but most effective insecticide to attack the pest at it's most vulnerable life cycle point.  For most pests this will be at the egg hatch stage when the newly hatched larvara are thin skinned and most vulnerable to insecticides.   In some cases, such as the common aphid, I would recommend a strong spray of water to dislodge the aphids and suggest that you could do that or I could do that for you.  So its not so much about the money I can make but rather giving you sound advice on the proper tree care.  I've found that once you proivde a customer with good and accurate information, they become a customer for life. 
 
My spray equipment includes a trailer mounted  200 gallon Meyers spray rig that can develop over 600 p.s.i.a. and 300 feet of hose to insure I can reach most trees and lawn areas on an average sized lot.  I can reach to top of most pine in the 35-40-foot range.  For larger trees, I can bring in a bucket truck with a 55-foot bucket extension to insure complete coverage. 
 
Prior to any spraying, I will give you the EPA fact sheet on the product I'm proposing to spray and answer any question or concerns that you may have.  I wear a class III respirator and full body suit, for all jobs.  I do this to protect myself and I'll protect you as well. 
 
A quick summary is that correct spraying is all about having the knowledge of the causes of the damage.  Some will be abiotic factors, caused by a nonbiologic sources, such as heat, light, chemical, air pollution, herbicides, lack or to much water.  Boitic factors will be from living pests,  these we can deal with.  Diseases and pests are a symptom of tree stress and not the cause.  Spraying your trees is just the first step in getting your trees out of stress and back to better health.  Testing of the leaves and soil will give us the information we need to develop an action plan.  Most actions plans to reverse tree stress are as simple as starting a summer time deep watering program.
 
July 1, August 1, and September 1 should be your target for deep watering periods.   
  
I'm not a big fan of injectable insecticides, as they can cause damage to the cambium layer so I always spray.
 
 
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