Recently I picked up a 2001 Corolla that was reported to have a bad engine. The technical term that was given by the previous owner was; "It just stopped". These engines are well known as "oil burners". There is considerable documentation across the web that shows these engines have issues. The only fix is to rebuild them.

For stats on this car, see the following Edmunds site:

This engine has the VVTi, which controls the intake camshaft to make the engine more efficient. Here is a neat little site, and video showing the VVTi:

Here are a bunch of sites that talk about the oil burning problems around this engine:

There is more out there, you just need to look around. Again, the fix is to rebuild the engine, as has been done on this engine.

Here is a video showing what the engine sounded like before I began the tear down......pretty ratty.

Here is a video showing what was making the knocking sound in the engine. Note how the connecting rod is able to move around on the Crankshaft. This is bad, and shows that the connecting rod bearings are completely missing....rather they have been shredded into really thin pieces of metal that dropped into the oil sump.

Here is some of the damageĀ  in the engine. Here you can see what is left of the crank bearings (two of them).

Here you can see how the shavings of the Bearings were sucked up into the Oil pickup.

Dirty camshafts

Cleaned up Engine Block parts

Engine Connecting Rods. The new rods are sitting on top of the old rods.

New parts have arrived

Cleaned up engine block

Refurbished crank, cleaned up and ready to be put into the block

Engine block bearings

Crank, sitting in the engine block

Lower portion of the Engine Block

New Connecting Rods, Pistons, Connecting Rod Bearings......

Here you can see how the bearings are placed into the Connecting Rod caps. Note the notches.

The Crank Bearing cap in place, holding the Crank in place.

The head, after some cleaning......

Cleaned up oil pickup.....Note how the bearing pieces are all gone......nice and clean, like it should be.

Oil pump. Pulled apart and getting ready to be cleaned up...........and cleaned up.....

Oil pump mounted back on the engine.

Cleaning up the valves, and replacing the valve seals

Note how there is a washer at the bottom of the well, that goes between the head and the valve spring. Also note that when cleaning these out, you want to be sure and get ALL of the old crud out. In this case, after the Valve Seal was removed, part of it was left behind. Get it all out so that the new seal fits in correctly.

Here is a new valve seal, next to an old crusty valve seal.

Here you can see how the Valve Stem seal was leaking.....

Reinstalling the Valve Spring Keepers is a fairly straight forward task. Align 'em up, and use a Valve Keeper Remover tool (Lisle 36200).
This little tool does a great job of popping the Keepers out, and then pushing them back in.

Putting the head back on the block

New Head Bolts

When getting the Timing chain setup, you want to put the chain on the CrankShaft Sprocket 1st, THEN the Intake Cam, and finally the Exhaust cam. Putting a wrench ON the exhaust cam and turning it slightly will assist you with getting the teeth lined up on the chain, and thus setting the Timing.

I pulled the injectors from the Fuel Rail and cleaned them up. The rubber isolators that the injectors sit in, were replaced with new ones from the gasket kit.

Piece by piece, it's coming together

The valve cover back in place, along with the Exhaust Heat Shield.

On the Engine hoist

Brand new "Rear Main Seal"

Flywheel and Torque Converted back in place

The Input Shaft seal to the Automatic Transmission was looking a little ratty, so I replaced this seal with a new Timken seal.

The Intake Manifold Gasket that came in the kit was a joke of a rubber gasket. I picked up a Felpro quality Intake Manifold gasket at Autozone to seal the Manifold against the head.

There are two Output shafts on the TransAxle (Transmission), and sealing each shaft to the Transaxle is a seal. Both the left (Driver's side) and Right (Passenger's side) seals in the Transaxle were replaced for good measure.
These first three are of the Driver's side.

Passenger's side of the Transaxle seal

Now it's time to shoe-horn the engine back into the car

hooking up the assorted hoses and such. Nearly back to running condition.

The Rear Brakes needed some work. The shoes needed to be replaced, and the wheel studs were galled, so they needed to be replaced as well.

Having a 20-Ton press is necessary to make quick work of pressing out Wheel Studs or Wheel bearings

Reinstalling rear wheel bearing with newly installed Wheel Studs

All Cleaned up with new shoes and Wheel Studs (Driver Side)

Passenger side with new shoes and Wheel Studs