How To Repair A Clicking Hard Drive

    hard drive
  • disk drive: computer hardware that holds and spins a magnetic or optical disk and reads and writes information on it
  • A high-capacity, self-contained storage device containing a read-write mechanism plus one or more hard disks, inside a sealed unit. Also called hard disk drive
  • A hard disk drive (hard disk, hard drive, HDD) is a non-volatile storage device for digital data. It features one or more rotating rigid platters on a motor-driven spindle within a metal case. Data is encoded magnetically by read/write heads that float on a cushion of air above the platters.
  • Hard Drive is the debut album from York rock band The Sorry Kisses, which was released on April 28, 2008. The album has been created as an outlet for Hayley Hutchinson's louder songs, which contrast with her usual acoustic style.
  • Move with such a sound
  • Press (a mouse button)
  • (click) chink: a short light metallic sound
  • (click) snap: move or strike with a noise; "he clicked on the light"; "his arm was snapped forward"
  • (click) make a clicking or ticking sound; "The clock ticked away"
  • Make or cause to make a short, sharp sound
    how to
  • A how-to or a how to is an informal, often short, description of how to accomplish some specific task. A how-to is usually meant to help non-experts, may leave out details that are only important to experts, and may also be greatly simplified from an overall discussion of the topic.
  • Practical advice on a particular subject; that gives advice or instruction on a particular topic
  • (How To’s) Multi-Speed Animations
  • the act of putting something in working order again
  • restore by replacing a part or putting together what is torn or broken; "She repaired her TV set"; "Repair my shoes please"
  • a formal way of referring to the condition of something; "the building was in good repair"
  • Fix or mend (a thing suffering from damage or a fault)
  • Put right (a damaged relationship or unwelcome situation)
  • Make good (such damage) by fixing or repairing it
how to repair a clicking hard drive IMG 3593
IMG 3593
*********************************************************************************** STOP! Don't take your shifter apart until you have positively identified that the problem is internal and can not be solved or helped by spraying lubrication into the shifter. Background: My brother in-law brought his bike over and mentioned that the shifting wasn’t working. He had purchased the bike used sometime in the last year but this was the first time I had seen it. Thus I don’t know the full background of the bike but here is a general description. The bike had a full Shimano 105 ((speed 5500 series) buildout, it was a 1999 Raleigh R600 (2) based on some BikePedia research. It had an Ohio bike shop sticker on it and there was some rust on the brake springs and stem. Bare aluminum by the cranks looked slightly corroded. So to me it looked like the bike may have spent some time outside, unprotected or ridden in salty midwest winters. Diagnosing: On the bike stand I pedaled and tried to shift through the gears in the rear (right shift lever). The downshifting clicks (big paddle) were distinct but a little gummy. The upshift (small paddle) didn’t want to click. As I pushed the small paddle the big paddle wanted to follow. I then unhooked the rear derailleur cable and removed it from the shifter so there was no tension from the rear derailleur. There wasn’t much improvement in how crisp the shifting felt. When pressing the small paddle the large paddle still wanted to follow. The large paddle had to be held in place while the small one was pressed in order to get a click/shift. This pointed towards an internal problem. Lube First: Since the action felt gummy and there was evidence the bike may have been left outside I suspected the internal lubrication in the shifter was no longer in good shape. At this time I tried spraying some PB blaster (which I bought based on internet recommendations) into the shifter lever and working it the shifter though the range of clicks. In a best case scenario the action would have freed up and the shifter been usable. I opted to to take a more extreme solvent to the shifter, some aerosol carburetor cleaner. This stuff is nasty. I had gloves and glasses on. I watched some of the clear coat bubble off the aluminum shift/brake lever. I suspect this could also harm plastic or rubber items as well. I regretted using the carb cleaner at this point. I wiped as much off as I could and tried spraying more PB blaster in and the shooting some BikeAid lubricant in. This process was messy. It was hard to tell if the solvent/lube was getting fully into the shifter. I think this process did loosen up some of the gummy grease but as I would later find out there was more to the problem. Going Deeper: At this point the shifter was still not working and I wanted to see inside of it. I’d found enough pieces of information online to suggest that is was possible to take apart (and reassemble) an STI shifter but it was also possible that I would end up losing parts or never get it put back together. I gave myself a quick pep talk, listened to John Henry and decided to give those Japanese robots a run for their money. Preparing to Disassemble: I made sure to have a clear and clean work place on my workbench with some fresh paper towels down. For tools I had a small philips, ⅜” punch, allen wrenches, 8mm and 9mm wrenches, dental picks and a roll pin. I had teflon grease for reassembly. I shifted to the highest gear position to release as much initial spring tension as possible. The Front/Back and Top/Bottom of the shifter all refer to the viewpoint of a rider sitting on the bike. The shifter was primarily disassembled facing the front of the shifter though so Left/Right references would be reversed from the riders perspective. Disassembly: I took the lever off the bike and removed the rubber hood (3485, 3486). I pried off the plastic 105 cap that covered the front of the shifter (3487). I backed out the grub screw (3489) that kept the pivot in place and used the punch to drive it out (3491). There is a coil spring that helps the brake lever return. Take note of its position (3493-95). Remove the brake cable stop pivot (3496). The pivot has a plastic and metal beveled washer on each side (3502-04) At this point the brake components have been removed from the shifter (3505-06). On the front of the shifter there is a philips head bolt that holds a black plastic bracket that the 105 faceplate was formerly mounted to (3508). Removing this bolt will not release any springs. This reveals an 8mm nut (5510). This nut holds the large shift paddle/brake lever on the center column of the shifter but there is a second screw on the back we will get to in a moment. Remove the metal washer with the cross shaped center and the nylon shim using a pick (3511, 12, 14). Notice the end of the coil spring that will release in a moment (3511). Turn the shifter over to see the back and there is a philips screw that needs to be
Old Hard Drive... circa 1982 (1)
Old Hard Drive... circa 1982 (1)
This old fellow is the first hard drive I took apart... I think it came from a Hewlett Packard ES about 24 years ago. It was a 20 meg Seagate, as I remember, and I still keep it around because it's easier to just show people what the knocking sound in their hard drives is... I'm going to polish off the coating (brownish) with the dremel and keep it around. If anything, it's an interesting paperweight - though pretty large compared to modern hard drives which can hold at least 5120 times more data in about half as much physical space. But the basic workings of the hard drive are the same...