how does a ratchet wrench work - Greenlee 7238SB
Includes assortment of commonly used Slug-Buster knockout punches.
1-inch hex ratchet wrench with easy-grip handle.
Unique punch profile also splits slugs for easier slug removal.
Unique Slug-Buster punch design creases slug as the punch is drawn into the die.
Slug is split in half as punching operation is completed.
Split slug falls free from the die and stud.
Slug-Buster Knockout Kit with Ratchet Wrench
The Greenlee Slug-Buster knockout kit is favored by most electrical experts. This hole-making kit was made for the serious contractor or electrician, as well as the do-it-yourself handyman, coming complete with the most common size of hole-making tools--including punches, dies, and draw studs--to meet the busy electrician's needs on the construction site. The Slug-Buster knockout kit also includes a 1-inch hex ratchet for added convenience.
The kit's punch has a unique profile to make the electrician's hole making easier. It splits the slug in half making it extremely easy to remove. It will perform punch holes for most conduit sizes including 1/4-inch, 1/2-inch, and 3/4-inch sizes, as well as 1-inch, 1-1/4-inch, 1-1/2-inch, and 2-inch size holes.
Exceptionally resourceful, the tools in the Greenlee Slug-Buster knockout kit will make holes in mild steel and in aluminum up to 10 gauge; they will also punch holes in fiberglass and plastic and can make holes for conduit with an outside diameter of 7/8 inches. Thoughtfully designed, the Slug-Buster can be used with a battery or hydraulic ratchet, as well as a manual ratchet.
Slug-Buster Knockout Punches 0.492 Inch to 2.520 Inches
Unique punch profile splits slugs for easier slug removal
Use with battery-powered, hydraulic, ratchet, or manual drivers
Uses standard Greenlee dies and draw studs
Slug Buster punches available in sizes up through 2.52 inches (64 mm)
Slug-Buster Knockout Punch Kit Includes:
Catalog NumberDescriptionSize of Actual Hole
34941Ratchet wrench with 1-inch hex
721-1/21/2-inch conduit size punch7/8 inch0.885 inch22.5 mm16 pg
147221/2-inch conduit size die7/8 inch0.885 inch22.5 mm16 pg
721-3/43/4-inch conduit size punch-1.115 inches28.3 mm-
124AV3/4-inch conduit size die-1.15 inches28.3 mm-
721-11-inch conduit size punch-1.362 inches34.6 mm-
126AV1-inch conduit size die-1.362 inches34.6 mm-
721-1-1/41-1/4-inch conduit size punch-1.701 inches43.2 mm-
128AV1-1/4-inch conduit size die-1.701 inches43.2 mm-
721-1-1/21-1/2-inch conduit size punch-1.951 inches49.6 mm-
440AV1-1/2-inch conduit size die-1.951 inches49.6 mm-
721-22-inch conduit size punch2-3/8 inches2.416 inches61.5 mm-
442AV2-inch conduit size die2-3/8 inches2.416 inches61.5 mm-
00042Ball bearing draw stud with 1-inch hex head--3/8 inch by 1-5/8 inches
304AVBBBall bearing draw stud--3/4 inch by 2-15/16 inches
Greenlee is a leader when it comes to developing innovative tools for electrical contractors. It started in 1862 with the Greenlee brothers' barrel-making machines, then woodworking tools. Today, Greenlee is a respected and trusted source for professional-grade wire- and cable-installation tools. From hole making and bending to test and measurement, Greenlee provides an array of tools to make your job faster, safer, and easier.
Greenlee Textron Inc. warrants to the original purchaser of these goods for use that these products will be free from defects in workmanship and material for their useful life, excepting normal wear and abuse.* This warranty is subject to the same terms and conditions contained in the Greenlee Textron Inc. catalog
*Standard one-year limited warranty.
Summary of parts removed at this point.
STOP! Don't take your shifter apart until you have positively identified that the problem is internal and can not be solved or helped by spraying lubrication into the shifter.
Background: My brother in-law brought his bike over and mentioned that the shifting wasn’t working. He had purchased the bike used sometime in the last year but this was the first time I had seen it. Thus I don’t know the full background of the bike but here is a general description. The bike had a full Shimano 105 ((speed 5500 series) buildout, it was a 1999 Raleigh R600 (2) based on some BikePedia research. It had an Ohio bike shop sticker on it and there was some rust on the brake springs and stem. Bare aluminum by the cranks looked slightly corroded. So to me it looked like the bike may have spent some time outside, unprotected or ridden in salty midwest winters.
Diagnosing: On the bike stand I pedaled and tried to shift through the gears in the rear (right shift lever). The downshifting clicks (big paddle) were distinct but a little gummy. The upshift (small paddle) didn’t want to click. As I pushed the small paddle the big paddle wanted to follow. I then unhooked the rear derailleur cable and removed it from the shifter so there was no tension from the rear derailleur. There wasn’t much improvement in how crisp the shifting felt. When pressing the small paddle the large paddle still wanted to follow. The large paddle had to be held in place while the small one was pressed in order to get a click/shift. This pointed towards an internal problem.
Lube First: Since the action felt gummy and there was evidence the bike may have been left outside I suspected the internal lubrication in the shifter was no longer in good shape. At this time I tried spraying some PB blaster (which I bought based on internet recommendations) into the shifter lever and working it the shifter though the range of clicks. In a best case scenario the action would have freed up and the shifter been usable.
I opted to to take a more extreme solvent to the shifter, some aerosol carburetor cleaner. This stuff is nasty. I had gloves and glasses on. I watched some of the clear coat bubble off the aluminum shift/brake lever. I suspect this could also harm plastic or rubber items as well. I regretted using the carb cleaner at this point. I wiped as much off as I could and tried spraying more PB blaster in and the shooting some BikeAid lubricant in. This process was messy. It was hard to tell if the solvent/lube was getting fully into the shifter. I think this process did loosen up some of the gummy grease but as I would later find out there was more to the problem.
Going Deeper: At this point the shifter was still not working and I wanted to see inside of it. I’d found enough pieces of information online to suggest that is was possible to take apart (and reassemble) an STI shifter but it was also possible that I would end up losing parts or never get it put back together. I gave myself a quick pep talk, listened to John Henry and decided to give those Japanese robots a run for their money.
Preparing to Disassemble: I made sure to have a clear and clean work place on my workbench with some fresh paper towels down. For tools I had a small philips, ?” punch, allen wrenches, 8mm and 9mm wrenches, dental picks and a roll pin. I had teflon grease for reassembly. I shifted to the highest gear position to release as much initial spring tension as possible. The Front/Back and Top/Bottom of the shifter all refer to the viewpoint of a rider sitting on the bike. The shifter was primarily disassembled facing the front of the shifter though so Left/Right references would be reversed from the riders perspective.
Disassembly: I took the lever off the bike and removed the rubber hood (3485, 3486). I pried off the plastic 105 cap that covered the front of the shifter (3487). I backed out the grub screw (3489) that kept the pivot in place and used the punch to drive it out (3491). There is a coil spring that helps the brake lever return. Take note of its position (3493-95). Remove the brake cable stop pivot (3496). The pivot has a plastic and metal beveled washer on each side (3502-04)
At this point the brake components have been removed from the shifter (3505-06). On the front of the shifter there is a philips head bolt that holds a black plastic bracket that the 105 faceplate was formerly mounted to (3508). Removing this bolt will not release any springs. This reveals an 8mm nut (5510). This nut holds the large shift paddle/brake lever on the center column of the shifter but there is a second screw on the back we will get to in a moment. Remove the metal washer with the cross shaped center and the nylon shim using a pick (3511, 12, 14). Notice the end of the coil spring that will release in a moment (3511).
Turn the shifter over to see the back and
NEILSON RATCHET WRENCH AND DRILL 1909
1909 IRON AGE listing for NEILSON'S RATCHET WRENCH AND DRILL, manufactured by the L. H. BROWN MFG. Co. of Carlinville, IL. The tool is based on patent number 822,687.