May 2009 Update: A writeup at Honda-tech.com says that the ball joint press part (with OEM #27023 embossed on the case cover) that Autozone rents works fine for installing the bushings. See http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2575490. Otherwise, try what is described below.
Clean the insides of the control arm bushing holes with Emery paper and maybe a bit of the penetrating oil "PB Blaster." Wipe the arm free of dirt and oil. With a hammer and socket that fits the outer sleeve diameter almost exactly, tap the bushing into place. Hammer evenly, so the bushing advances as levelly as possible.
Advance the bushing via hammering until you can use the sockets-bolt-nut-washers method described above or, in the alternative, a puller. I found a clamp I made using the $11 (in 2006) Harbor Freight puller at the right required much less labor than the sockets-bolt-nut-washers method if you can keep the clamp well aligned with the centerline of the bushing-arm assembly. Harbor Freight's puller set includes a 3/4-inch diameter, fine thread, apparently high grade pressure screw.
If you use the puller, then you will also need a lower yoke. I used some junkyard scraps judiciously selected for this. In the alternative, one can just buy a second puller. Similar puller sets with slightly smaller pressure screws are also sold as "harmonic balancer pullers" at Autozone and Pep Boys, at similar prices. The Harbor Freight puller's 3/4-inch diameter pressure screw, with two other 3/8-inch, high grade bolts (True Value hardware) passing through the yoke and straddling the control arm, was very effective at pushing the bushings in, with one caveat: Any tilt to the setup, along with applying excessive torque, is likely to strip the pressure bolt threads. I installed two-and-a-half bushings using fairly light force on the wrench when I got overambitious, felt the force needed to torque increase, and kept going. I could see the pressure screw was tilted. Needless to say, one 3/4-inch pressure screw is stripped. If I had stopped and re-aligned the yokes, sockets, scraps, etc., things might be fine.
For either the sockets-bolt-nut-washers method or using a puller, any doughnut shaped scraps you can find will be helpful, too. I collected many such scraps from junkyards in advance. The bushing may or may not slide in fairly easily. I used mostly a 1.5-foot pipe extension on my wrenches and was not applying anywhere near my whole body weight when advancing the bolt or pressure screw. Also, I think applying PB Blaster to the bushing sleeve-control arm interface throughout does help. An hour or so may be required altogether, once you have figured out the right sockets, scraps of pipe, Grade 8 bolt lengths, washers, etc. to use. If you find you need more than a 1.5-foot pipe extension, then the torque you are applying is very close to stripping the bolt's threads. At a few points, a five-foot pipe extension on my wrenches was working fine, advancing the bushing into place, but I also managed to strip two 3/8-inch bolts in the process.
The 3/8-inch bolts never yielded in tension (that is, pulled apart). This suggests the force the sockets-bolt-nut-washer setup applied to the bushing was probably less than seven tons, by my calculations using various, basic bolt formulae and theory. The bolt/nut threads are not supposed to strip until about nine tons are applied. I figure I had tilted the nut somewhat when tightening, causing the stripping to occur. The washers and other doughnut shaped items beneath it were in fact yielding (= bending) somewhat, causing things to get a little uneven. (The sockets by contrast held up well.) So with the nut under load and tilted relative to the bolt axis, at high enough loads, the threads would strip. Check often that the centerline axes of the bolt, bushing, and control arm hole are as perfeclty aligned as possible. Tapping with a small hammer at times can help ensure this.
I think if I had taken more care to keep the sockets-bolt-nut-washer setup straight, the two bolts might not have stripped. New and tougher washers, or bolts of easier lengths with which to work with the sockets I had, might also have prevented stripping.
I tried putting the new bushings in the freezer overnight and heating the control arm in a 200 degree F oven for an hour. I think this helps. A propane torch would be better, so the arm is heated only locally. One may use Tempil sticks to gage the temperature of the arm accurately. One wants to be aware of how high the temperature is. If the temperature is too high, then the arm's structural integrity risks being compromised. (Thanks to JT of the honda newsgroups for this step.)
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