Stink bugs driving you nuts?
Here are some resources for stink bug control. This is information cut and pasted and edited from various sources on the internet. If you find anything that WORKS for you, please share it. Otherwise this is all just untested ideas...
Details on our Brown Marmorated Stink Bugs from PSU entomology
The stink bug is becoming an important agricultural pest in Pennsylvania. In 2010, it produced severe losses in some apple and peach orchards. It also has been found feeding on blackberry, sweet corn, field corn and soybeans. In neighboring states it has been observed damaging tomatoes, lima beans and green peppers.
Stink bugs hibernate during cold winter months and will emerge in the
spring as temperatures rise. Stink bugs are hardy and will live a few
years so adults which find themselves too far north will hibernate on
buildings which help to provide some warmth.
Try not to handle them and be careful if you do - not only will they release that nasty smell but many species are able to inflict a nasty bite!
If you have stink bugs in your garden, remove weeds, because the bugs can use the weeds as a cover. To deter the bugs from your house, remove weeds and foliage near the house, forcing the animals to cross barren ground to gain access to the structure. After you have removed weeds and other foliage which could be used as cover, you can try scattering kaolin clay around the area, or spray your plants with a kaolin clay solution. Stink bugs are not able to lay eggs and feed on plants covered in this harmless mineral clay, which can simply be washed off any vegetables and fruits.
If stink bugs have penetrated your house, the first thing you need to do is to stop the problem from getting any worse. Use caulk to seal the house thoroughly, paying special attention to the areas where stink bugs are crawling through.
Then, use a vacuum to suck up the bugs; you don't want to crush or kill them, because this could attract more stink bugs and feed other insect populations in your house. Once you have pulled as many stink bugs out of the house as possible, empty the vacuum canister outside, or throw out the bag. You may need to repeat this process several times if the bugs are in the walls.
What my family has done is we keep a cup with a little bit of water next
to a tissue in each room. Once we see a stink bug we pick it up and
toss into the glass. No stink and they don't escape. When we have about
2-3 bugs we toss them into the toilet and refill the glass. This method
has worked for lowering the amount of stinkbugs in my house.
We keep a Pringles Can in the kitchen. Helps reach the ones on the ceiling and you can hear the 'clink' when they fall into the can. Once in there, place the lid on and shake. This kills it without having any smell on your hands.
Finally, we bought a battery hand-held vac that we use exclusively for “stink bug patrol”. I treat a coffee filter with flea spray and use it between the canister and the filter. The vac stinks and has to be washed out every so often.If you vacuum them, put in a few cloves. It helps with the smell.
You have to suck up the dead SBs because other insects prey on their dead bodies. Vacuums need to be placed outside, even if you have emptied them (or so you think). Nothing of SB use can remain in the house.
Dish soap in a pressurized sprayer.
Dawn dish soap along with water (more soap for a thicker solution) and in a ziploc container. When we held the container up to the wretched little bugs, they leaped in the mixture and died within seconds.
Try using hot pepper juice-water tea like solvent, mixed with Palmolive green soap mixture. It shouldn't hurt vegetation, but be careful not to get it in your eyes.
Try a spray bottle with 50 percent Dawn and 50 percent white vinegar,
works better than water. Strong hot pepper powder like habanero would
probably be another good ingredient since it is a natural insecticide,
but I haven't tried it yet.
One day, I was spraying essential peppermint oil that I had mixed with water for the smell and found that it drove the stink bugs out of hiding. I found online where you can make your own bug spray by using essential oils and olive oil. I went on several different sites on how to make the spray and it looks like any essential oil like peppermint, bay oil, eucalyptus, pennyroyal and rosemary work.
Eucalyptus oil mosquito repellent or eucalyptus oil spray. I squirted a few pumps in various areas. especially Around the he house. Every place the mist fell, SB's were lifting off like little helicopters! We plan to prepare a larger solution of castile soap with eucalyptus oil, using a high powered sprayer to clean the house first (roof to ground). Using protective gloves and glasses, we'll then prepare and use a strong solution of eucalyptus oil, cayenne pepper or the hottest pepper we can find in hydrogen peroxide, probably 7-15 percent grade. We'll use this to repel if not kill them throughout the rest of the year.*Before using hydrogen peroxide, do the research on safe dilution. It can burn, so use gloves and safety goggles.
Odor Ban spray (it has eucalyptus in it). You can get Odor Ban at Home Depot.
They don't like citronella. I put a lit citronella candle in a room that has stink bugs on the outer screen and they move away and/or drop off the screen
Then we discovered that flea bombs worked very well inside the house, killing them by the score. Cedar-lined cabinets were not infested with stinkbugs. So we are going to try some cedar packs and cedar oil maybe mixed with eucalyptus and see how that works to repel them.
We've found that flea and tick killer - Frontline will actually kill
these things. If you spray them you can kill them -- though they die
slowly... and I think you've gotta get their underbellies because their
backs are too shielded. We keep a milk jug and a Swiffer. Put a little Frontline in the milk jug and drop the bugs in each time. If you put
them near a Swiffer they grab on and then literally and almost willingly
jump into the jug. Put the cap on and they're dead in seconds. As for
keeping them out of the house, we laid Frontline down around our screen
door (which was the worst). It worked, a little.
Powdered borax in a solution of warm water to spray for them, dust around doors and windows.
Any ant and roach killer is also good at stopping them dead within about 30 seconds of direct contact.
Cutter Bug Free Backyard Fogger - a tiny spritz directly on stink bug. It died within a minute, without releasing it's foul odor. I proceeded to spritz each SB as they landed on my house, and voila! They stopped coming into my home, and after doing this several times, they even stopped landing on my house.
Hot Shot to bomb the crap out of them and
follow up with a battery powered and probably disposable shop vac.
They do live in the cold; they are dormant. They are slow, lethargic like in cold climates. They seem less likely to spray stink when they are cold. Perhaps this is because they are moving more slowly or cannot produce the "stink" without heat? So winter is a great time to treat them, because you can get up and close to them and not worry about being sprayed on or dealing with the overwhelming smell.
As the weather cools, they will do anything to get inside. Attics, crawl spaces, eves, yes, even your bathroom fans (they have an open line to outside), stove fans (open line to outside) will get it. If you have small cracks, they will make it a bigger crack (screens on windows they gather and push through). These bugs work as a team to hibernate.
Some posters suggest "freezing your house" to kill the stink bugs, however, since the stink bugs can hibernate when cold and wake up again when warmed, this does not seem like a good solution.
Stink bugs may breed on plants inside your home.
Please be careful of pesticide poisoning. Organophosphate poisoning can be deadly. If not familiar with chemicals, do not experiment.
When mixing chemicals and/or ingredients together, do be careful. Pesticide poisoning is deadly at worst, and at the minimum you can become terribly ill! There are long term effects.
I agree that many posts are from the "general population" but feel this is harmless, and a good way to communicate and share issues.I've been testing lots of stuff, and most of these things everyone has laying around somewhere, some things I've used I know are not available at the local wally world. I just hit one with a little methylene chloride and I'm sure he regrets coming close to me now. Get creative but use this stuff safely. MC will burn you horribly!
Wear nitrile gloves when handling and using anything that you're going to use to kill them. My next experiment, since they're attracted to terpenes, is a can of turpentine in a 2.5 gal bucket to see if I can drown a bunch.
If you're lucky, your stink bugs will be attacked by predators and parasites. A number of organisms will attack stink bug eggs, and while these organisms are not available for commercial sale, they may be present in your area, especially if you live in an agricultural community. Many state-sponsored stink bug control methods have focused on the release of such parasites, protecting crops and gardens in the areas that they are released.
Seems there is one predator of these stink bugs which, the article says, first made an appearance in America in Allentown, PA in 1998. The one predator is a parasitic stinging wasp found only in Asia where the bugs originated and it can't be imported to the US without years of quarantine and testing. The USDA's budget for research seems absurdly small considering the magnitude of the problem and the cost to farmers.
A number of companies produce organic insecticide soaps which are targeted at stink bugs, and you can also use chemical insecticides which are formulated for various stink bug species. Before using insecticides, however, be aware that insecticides are highly toxic and difficult to deal with, and they should really only be considered as a last resort.
You can hire a pest control service spray the exterior all around the deck, doors and windows, as well as some dusting inside the basement drop ceiling. This treatment may last only a few weeks or months.
I sprayed TalstarP over everything: real wood siding, cracks, gaps, screens, wood flooring etc. Kills bugs dead. Good product. Easy to use, but you must purchase a sprayer, and any type of sprayer will work. Don't use a little spray bottle, too small. Get yourself a sprayer at least 1.5 gallons (not too heavy). I used 10 gallons of solution (it's concentrated so you add water). It should last for months, as long as there is no rain. Remember, they are trying to find hiding spots to rest for the winter, so spray in cracks for sure. Attics too.
2nd Opinion on Talstar: Charleston WV here. I have a monthly exterminator and he said they are at a loss as to what to use to kill the bug. He said the Talstar won't work unless you are right up on the bug and spray it.
Deltamethrin spray concentrate
If you have had a problem with stink bugs finding their way into your home, the first thing to do is to treat the outside of the home in the fall just before or as they start to migrate inside. If you had them invading in the past than you know as the nights cool, stink bugs can be found landing on your home and trying to find cracks and crevices in which to sleep during the night. In the early stages of fall they will then leave the next day foraging for food. It is at this time you want to get the home sprayed with CYPERMETHRIN. This material is easy to use and will kill them quickly as well as repel them. The product is applied with a sprayer.
Add some SPREADER STICKER to insure a quick kill since the stink bug has a protective skin which protects them well from insecticides. Spreader Sticker will allow the material to penetrate much faster. The trick for doing a good application is to start spraying as high as you can letting it drip down the siding to get complete coverage. Most homes will have a few main entry points and these will be the key areas to concentrate your efforts when spraying. A well treated structure will provide an invisible wall or defense through which the bugs will not be able to penetrate. Most homes will require 2-3 gallons to get good coverage and will have 1 or 2 sides which are the main entry points but care should be taken to get as many sides as possible. Stink bugs will readily move to untreated sides trying to find ways into the homes which have been shelters in the past. Stink bugs leave strong odors which linger for 6 months or more and these odors will serve as attractants to stink bugs which hibernated in the building in the past as well as new stink bugs looking for a good place to reside for the upcoming winter. Only when you kill off the returning adults and keep new ones from establishing themselves in the home will you be able to have a winter stink bug free. This will take 1-2 seasons and usually a year or more to achieve.
In many cases the population hibernating is so large they will find their way inside to living areas. If this happening you can help to minimize their activity with an aerosol treatment call BAYGON. This aerosol comes with a crack and crevice straw which allows you to apply it to window frames, door frames, base mouldings, around light fixtures and any other route of entry they might be using to get inside. Baygon will kill them quickly since it's a contact killer but it's also a flushing agent. That means it will chase out any that are hiding in wall voids. Treat the rooms where you have activity and don't be afraid to treat once a week until no new ones are found. Expect to treat a few times in early winter - especially if you have an infestation which has been around more than one year - and keep a can handy to use as needed.
Another aerosol you might consider is the virtually odorless PT-PHANTOM. It's slow acting and can take upwards of 3-4 days to kill anything. But this is very much by design. Since it's slow acting,any insects which come in contact with it are then able to spread the product around. Certain insects like stinkbugs tend to group up when resting and hiding. This behavior lends itself to the product being "shared". That means if one gets some on it and then moves into an area where a bunch of stinkbugs are hiding, they can all be affected even if you didn't spray there. This extra impact can be a big help in providing long term control. For this reason (along with the low to no odor feature), you may want to consider using Phantom instead of the Baygon.
Though the outside treatments with
Cypermethrin and the inside treatments with Baygon will certainly help
to keep them off the home and out of living areas, this may not be
enough to break the reproduction that may be happening deep inside
attics, crawl spaces and wall voids. Since stink bugs like to live in
the home for a long time, they will many times forage into attics and
wall voids where they reside through the winter. These nesting locations
can be accessed from high points on the home which are very hard to
treat by spraying the outside. If you feel you have stink bugs living in
such areas and the normal outside sprayings you have administered has
not reached key entry points than consider using some
Apply the dust with a DUSTIN MIZER. This device will enable you to blow the dust over 20 feet ensuring good coverage over large open areas where stink bugs will readily crawl and penetrate. The application will last 6-12 months so you don't have to do it nearly as often as the liquid or aerosol treatments and since it works on many other pests you will be protecting the home from a wide range of insects. The other good feature of Deltamethrin Dust is that it works in either dry or wet environments. This is important if the stink bugs are entering through dark and moist crawl spaces. Applications will last long periods of time even when wet which is what is needed to break the hibernating cycle of this pest.
Since the dust works so well you may decide to apply it around rooms which are having a lot of stink bug activity. The dust will leave a white residue which can be cleaned easily with a damp rag but applications will last so much longer than the aerosol. Use the dust for treating behind light switch plate covers, electric switch plate covers and other spaces where you suspect stink bugs are entering. Apply the dust with a HAND DUSTER which will allow you to "puff" the dust 2-3 feet deep into wall voids which offer great nest and hibernating locations. Be sure to get around light fixtures and vent covers for forced hot or cold air (not in the ducts but around them). Though not always needed, dusting can be a vital part of the process which is usually needed when infestations have been allowed to go on for more than a year or so.
Another tool that can be deployed inside is our STINKBUG LIGHT TRAP. This trap uses a special design that "funnels" curious stinkbugs down to a holding tank which should be filled with water and some liquid dish detergent. Once they enter and land in the water, they can't escape. Stinkbugs, like Asian Ladybugs, are highly attracted to the UV light bulb in this trap and will fly around the top where the light emits. This is also the entrance