KLR Footpegs

Workshop Blog  --  Steel Pegs for the Hard Stuff   --  Dualsport Blog

Being the kind of person that would rather spend money on tools than parts, I decided to make my own steel KLR off-road footpegs.  The photos (click to view larger images) and basic design are here:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The basic design involves 5 parts:

  1. Outside loop.  This is just a chunk of 3/16" thick mild steel flat stock, about 1-1/4" wide and as long as it needs to be.  Just bend the middle around the radius that you want your pegs to be.
  2. Central support.  This is a chunk of the same stuff the outside loop is made of.  It runs from the centre bar right through the square tube, diagonally - corner to corner.  The part that runs through the tube will have to be notched down so it will fit.  Also, drill an over-sized hole in the end that goes through the tube.  This hole has to be larger than the actual bolt size as it is mounted on an angle.
  3. Square tube.  This is the part that fits into the footpeg mounting bracket.  Size accordingly.  It is welded to the central support and to the channel ends.  Only weld on the sides that won't interfere with the footpeg mounting bracket.  If you look at a mounted footpeg, you'll see what I mean.
  4. Channel.  This is a chunk of 2" x 3/16" channel 1-1/4" long.  That's LONG.  Part 5 is the same as 4 and both are welded, back to back, with the central support sandwiched in between.
  5. Channel, same as 4.  Note that the height of the channel legs sets the width of the footpeg.  This peg is nice and clean (and was attempt #2) because the overall peg width turned out to be too great for shifting comfort.  On the third attempt, I cut down the channel height to make the pegs thinner.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Notice that the central bar is actually 3 metal thicknesses: 2 channel backs with the central support running down the middle.  The cross-piece, running top to bottom in the above photo, is actually 2 channel sides.  The end bar, running top to bottom in the above photo - where the square tube attaches, is just the other sides of the channel.










This photo shows the central bar running diagonally down the inside of the square tube.  You will need to notch the top of it down so that it fits.  Notching the TOP will raise the footpeg above mounting bracket, which is a good thing.  Also, don't forget to drill the over-sized hole in the end of the notched part.


The square tube should be sized to fit the bike mounting brackets.  The end will be sloped for clearance; I just filed to fit after welding everything up.  Note that the hole in this part should be sized to fit your footpeg mounting pin.  I had already drilled mine oversized to compensate for wear.  The stock pin is smaller than the above photos show.

 

Finishing up: 

To cut the taper up to the tip of the footpeg, I just drew a line and had at it with a hacksaw.  It didn't take very long.  I also cross-drilled some holes just to reduce the weight a bit.  I cut the teeth with an angle grinder; don't make them too sharp or your boots will pay the price.  After that, a little roll-bar spray-paint (tough black paint that I'm fairly impressed with) made them look somewhat pretty.


Future:

On my next set of pegs, I think I'll weld in a short pipe where the footpeg mounting pin runs through.  The holes in the square tube are starting to show some wear.


Are they any good?  Well, better than the stock rubber pegs, and they seem to be tough enough. They probably weigh a little more than the fancy aluminium pegs you can buy, but they cost a whole lot less.