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Interior renewal

My 1967 Galaxie Convertible, with it's 390 4 bbl, is my favourite ride. It gets used from April to October every year, almost as a daily driver. When I got it I did a hasty body clean-up, repaired some rust and splashed it in Sunshine Yellow with a single stage Acrylic Enamel. It's held up well over time, but every year there's several other things I want to get done, that I just haven't gotten to.
This year I promised myself I'd get to some of the things I've been meaning to do, including repairing a floor well, replacing the carpet (which I bought new 3 years ago!), clean up the interior and repair some extensive rust on the torque-boxes.
This week I tackled the floor repair, carpet install and console repaint.
First up, stripping the interior...
Galaxie interior stripped
After stripping everything out of the car, I gave all the plastic parts a wash with SEM Soap, but a little dish soap and water will work too, making sure to get both sides. Once clean and dry, I had to address a crack that had slowly gotten bigger over time.
After the parts got that good washing, everything got wiped several times with a wax and grease remover. I can't tell you how many times I've applied Armour-all, Vinyl Sheen and other products to these pieces and those products will wreak absolute havoc with any repairs or painting you may want to undertake. It can never be too clean.
There are several plastic repair kits on the market, but as long as you use a product from a brand name, you should be good. Here I'm using bondo brand bumper repair compound which will be OK for a general, small repair, but if you're going to repair something larger, or critical, you'll want to ascertian what type of pastic you have (ABS or ?) and search for a product meant to bond that particular type of plastic. See more on that in the Challenger Door Panel repair thread I posted on Moparts, here:  http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=4916353&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1)
 As well as the repair material, you're going to need to use something to replicate the texture or grain of the part you're repairing. For that you can find vinyl repair kits that contain various grain patterns that you press into the setting plastic repair comound. The key is choosing the correct texture to press into the repair material...


Paper graining and texture mats:

Grain pattern paper close:

The process goes like this: if the plastic is thick enough, you can V-out the crack to increase the amount of repair material you can get into the crack. As well, I'll often drill a small (1/8") hole at either end of the crack, to give it an end point. Using some duct tape, tape the crack from the back to hold it togther while the repair compound is applied, textured and dries.
Mix up just enough to work a small portion as a time, as you don't want it to harden before you texturize it and you need to be able to cover the repair with the textured paper. Press the compound into the V and drilled hole and then smooth it out, leaving it a touch high. Allow it to sit until the compound just starts to stiffen and the stickiness decreases. Now, using the texture material, press it over the compound, holding it with weighted flat or contoured items to keep even pressure on it until the compund dries. Once dry, remove the textured paper slowly. IF it looks decent, your done, if not, then it's take two!
I also had to repair a piece of plastic chrome trim, which needed to be sanded smooth. While you can now get even plastic items chromed professionally, I decided to try Chrome paint. After several coats it looked great, but once dry it didn`t look perfect, but the piece is hidden under the dash, so I`m going to see how it looks once it`s back together before I decide if I need to re-do it.

Cutting up a new carpet is always nerve-wracking! This is the 5th or 6th one I've done and because they are often nowhere close to the original, it's sometimes hard to figure exactly where - or how much - to cut, especially when the old carpet comes out in tatters. I always end up cutting a couple inches at a time until it fits, which is likely for the best. A lot of guys reading this may only do one or two in their lives, so cutting slowly - while smoothing and stretcching - is likely the best way to go.

Looks pretty good after a quick vacuum - Colton approves!

After the repair on the console door was dry (you can barely see the repair below), I sprayed on a coat of SEM `Sand Free`, which softens the plastic to increase paint adherence. If you don't have some plastic pre-prep solvent (Sand Free), then scruff the piece with a Scotch Brite pad and re-clean it with the Wax & Grease remover before applying your paint, which for me was Bumper Semi-Gloss Black. I like the Bumper paint for black plastic repair because it's not shiny, not too flat and formulated for pastic.

  Finally, I polished the chrome and stainless that runs around the console. After 44 years of being bumped and scratched, it came out OK.