Drill Bit Sizes For Screws

    drill bit
  • drilling bit: a bit used in drilling for oil
  • Mini-Cons are a human-sized race and faction of power-enhancing transforming robots in the universe and its sequels, one of the assorted universes in Transformers fiction.
  • Drill bits are cutting tools used to create cylindrical holes. Bits are held in a tool called a drill, which rotates them and provides torque and axial force to create the hole. Specialized bits are also available for non-cylindrical-shaped holes.
    screws
  • (screw) a simple machine of the inclined-plane type consisting of a spirally threaded cylindrical rod that engages with a similarly threaded hole
  • (screw) prison guard: someone who guards prisoners
  • A cylinder with a helical ridge or thread running around the outside (a male screw) that can be turned to seal an opening, apply pressure, adjust position, etc., esp. one fitting into a corresponding internally grooved or threaded piece (a female screw)
  • An instrument of torture acting in this way
  • A short, slender, sharp-pointed metal pin with a raised helical thread running around it and a slotted head, used to join things together by being rotated so that it pierces wood or other material and is held tightly in place
  • (screw) sleep together: have sexual intercourse with; "This student sleeps with everyone in her dorm"; "Adam knew Eve"; "Were you ever intimate with this man?"
    sizes
  • The relative extent of something; a thing's overall dimensions or magnitude; how big something is
  • Each of the classes, typically numbered, into which garments or other articles are divided according to how large they are
  • (size) (used in combination) sized; "the economy-size package"; "average-size house"
  • Extensive dimensions or magnitude
  • (size) the physical magnitude of something (how big it is); "a wolf is about the size of a large dog"
  • (size) cover or stiffen or glaze a porous material with size or sizing (a glutinous substance)
drill bit sizes for screws
drill bit sizes for screws - Kreg SML-C125-500
Kreg SML-C125-500 1-1/4-Inch #8 Coarse Pocket Hole Screws with Washer-Head, 500-Pack
Kreg SML-C125-500 1-1/4-Inch #8 Coarse Pocket Hole Screws with Washer-Head, 500-Pack
1-1/4'' Coarse Thread self-tapping screws are specially designed for pocket hole joinery. They feature a self-tapping auger point that eliminates pre-drilling and a flat head that seats flushly in the bottom of the pocket hole.

The Kreg 1-1/4-Inch #8 Coarse Pocket Hole Screws with Washer-Head prevents overdriving in pocket bottoms, which is especially critical in composite and plywood work pieces. The self-tapping type 17 auger tip eliminates the need to predrill, and its larger diameter steel shank creates a nearly unbreakable screw. The bronze-colored finish and dry-lubricant coating improves driving torque and rust resistance. This pack includes 500 hole screws.

Pegboard
Pegboard
Shoulda taken photos as I went through each step, but here's how it went down... Time: 3 hours (most if it in front of the TV while glue dries in step 3), plus 2 years (optional, step 6) Materials: - 4'x2' pegboard (multiple sheets if you have more wallspace, they're made to fit alongside each other; just be sure to use heavy tape to keep them aligned while you build/attach the frames in steps 3 and 4) - 1x3s for a backing frame, cut to two pieces at 2' and two pieces at ~43". - Power drill (saw elsewhere that a hammer drill is strongly recommended for masonry) - Masonry bit, 5/32" - Wood bit, 3/16" - Level - Wood glue - Wood clamps (or similar) - Screws, "Tapper" style, 3/16" x 1 3/4" - Assorted pegboard holders Note: The way I've done this means you won't be able to use the three holes around the perimeter of the board. Wood will be blocking them from behind. 1. Hold the bare pegboard flat against the wall and mark where to drill your holes in the masonry. I chose the second hole at each end of the pegboard. I happened to have 4x4s leftover from another project, and those were a big help -- I placed them on the workbench, which gave me a surface exactly eight inches up with a chance to use the level. 2. Drill holes at the marks with a masonry bit, which, god, what a pain in the butt that is. It takes a long, long time, a lot of strength, and lots of stopping to let the bit cool. 3. Looking at the back of your pegboard, lay out your 1x3's in a rectangle. This will be your frame -- what you actually attach to the wall. Make sure you like how they fit, and then one by one, use your wood glue to adhere each piece to the board. Work one piece at a time; 1x3's tend to bow, so clamp each end down and let dry however long your glue bottle says. (Mine is half an hour.) 4. With your wood bit and using your earlier pegboard holes as a guide, drill holes through the wood. You'll use these to attach everything to the wall. You'll see I drilled mine at the second pegboard holes. You'll also notice in the materials list that the masonry bit and drill bit are slightly different sizes. If you're a gifted measurer, by all means, use both at 5/32". But I used a bigger wood bit to give myself some literal wiggle room...I knew the frame and masonry holes wouldn't perfectly aligned, so I knew I'd be able to go in at a slight, safe, still-strong angle. 5. Assuming all your holes are lined up, carefully screw your screws through each hole in the pegboard/wood into the holes in the masonry. Go partway with each and then go back and tighten. Don't go crazy tightening -- you don't want to rip out a chunk of masonry. Just go far enough that the board feels firmly in place. 6. Spend the next two years obsessing over the best way to arrange your pegboard holders and hardware (optional). 7. Place your holders and hardware.
Step 4: Drill again?!
Step 4: Drill again?!
Yes. Drilling on the back of the door. Why? Stupid screws aren't long enough for my door. Either my doors for my cabinets are very good quality and are thicker than usual, or stupid screws are cheap ass.

Anyways, I, as the master of improvisation, decided to pick a drill to match the size of the head of the screw, and will drill on the back of the door so that I get a countersink.
What's important? I switch the drill so it turns counterclockwise -- I'm not trying to drill a real hole here. Instead, if the drill bit runs backwards and I apply enough pressure, slowly I can get a countersink going. Totally ghetto.. Who wants to sponsor me to buy some real tools?