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Making Crayons Recipes


  • Try one part soap, one part beeswax. (update: this works)
  • Try 2 beeswax: 1 talc (update: doesn't work as well)
  • 1 pigment : 4 wax (paraffin, but try soy) (update: not so good)
  • Heat the soy wax, then stir dry pigment in. Keep on low heat until pigment has fully mixed. LOW HEAT
  • Try doing a double-boiler (update: yes, this is good)



Beeswax Crayon Recipe #1
2 parts beeswax
1 part talc
Melt the wax in a microwave or small can placed in boiling water ( a double boiler). Stir in the talc and dry artist's pigment or fresco colors. Pour the mixture into a lubricated aluminum foil mold. The crayon may be melted again and more pigment added until it is the exact color desired. Caution: These crayons should not be used by children because some pigments are not food safe. 

Beeswax Pastels Recipe #1
1 part grated soap
1 part beeswax
Melt the beeswax in a small can placed in boiling water. Add the grated soap and stir until the soap melts and the mixture is smooth. Color the mixture with dry artist's pigment or fresco colors. Pour into lubricated aluminum foil molds. After testing the crayon, it can be melted again and more pigment added. Caution: These crayons should not be used by children because some pigments are not food safe. 

Beeswax Crayons Recipe #2
This person says:
"I find the beeswax crayons to be harder than the soy, giving the ability to add more details to pictures." 
(Use equal weights of soap and beeswax.)
1 part soap, grated (inexpensive bar white bar soap)
1 part beeswax, chopped into pieces
Paste or liquid food coloring or a veggie based colorant. Note: You can use tempera paints or fresco pigments instead of food coloring for deeper colors, but they should not be ingested so they are not safe for small children.
2 cup Pyrex measuring cup or other microwave safe container
Molds – see note in directions
Veggie spray or shortening
Chop up beeswax into pieces and grate soap. 
In your microwave melt soap and beeswax in Pyrex measuring cup. Caution: the liquid will be very hot! You can also melt the soap and beeswax in the top of a double boiler. Watch the mixture closely. You do not want it to boil or it will foam up putting air bubbles in your crayons. If this does happen, let it set for a couple of minutes, gently stirring to remove air bubbles. 
When the soap and beeswax have melted, carefully mix in color. I used paste food coloring. Obviously, the more you add, the more vibrant the color. I also wanted to make 4 colors so I divided the hot liquid before adding colors. Note: If using a veggie based colorant, you may have to return it to the microwave to completely melt the tart. 
Lightly grease the mold you will be using to pour the liquid into. Possible molds are ice cube trays, mini muffin pans, depressions in artist clay, disposable mini paper cups, or make your own mold using foil paper. 
Pour the melted mixture into your mold and allow to dry completely. Note: If the crayons have become "gloppy" and you are using an oven safe mold, pop them in a 350 oven for a few minutes to melt a bit. Be careful not to let them go too long or they will begin to foam! 
Remove from mold and use! 
BTW… I have had parents tell me that if you use glycerin soap the crayons will be harder. I have not tried it yet, but you may wish the experiment. 

Read more:

Soy Crayon Recipe #1
Colorant wax chips
Soy wax flakes
Understand, soy crayons aren't for every project. The wax is soft and begins melting at a low temp. As a matter of fact, even holding a soy crayon for too long will start the surface to become "slimy" (but in a good way   You can't use them for detailed work BUT for projects begging for large sweeps of a crayon, this is the perfect choice. They are always a wonderful choice for your youngest budding artists; easy to hold and you don't need to press down hard to get results. 
To make soy crayons simply melt soy wax flakes,
add coloring agent,
pour into desired mold,
allow to cool completely, and there you have it... a soy crayon. 
Wax can be melted on the stove top set at medium to medium low, or it melts wonderfully, in a microwave safe container, in just minutes. Hint: To easily remove crayons from mold, I submerged the mold in very hot tap water for a few seconds, thus melting the surface a bit, and they popped right out! Note: as the wax cools, it will contract. When filling my eggs, I needed to reheat some of the left over wax and pour into the mold to "top it off".
Resources I used:
I purchased my soy wax flakes from and my veggie based colorant from I used egg molds that I had gotten years ago from Jello. Unfortunately, Jello no longer sells the molds, but I did check out EBay and there were quite a few Sellers with them for sale or try your local thrift store. To melt the wax I used some plastic cups left over from days gone by... not a good idea. As the wax began to melt... so did the cups. I am going to keep my eyes open at the thrift store and garage sales for 1 cup Pyrex measuring cups.
Because the quantity of soy wax flakes you will need varies with the molds you use it is hard to estimate how "much" you will need for a project. In general, I found 1 cup of flakes yields 1/2 cup melted wax, so a 2:1 ration. To get vibrant colors I needed to add 4 colorant wax chips to 1 cup of the unmelted soy wax chips. And, in my case, it took about 1/2 cup of the melted wax to fill each egg.
So, whether you want to make a dozen colored soy wax eggs for Easter or just a few to add to your child's crafting supplies, you are all set to go. Obviously, hot wax is... well... it's hot, so use caution especially if children are "helping". Also, because the wax melts at such a low temperature, I was able to wash all the spoons and containers in my dishwasher. Everything came out clean and there was no residual mess in the dishwasher, making clean up a breeze!
BTW... if you have a favorite suppliers of the soy wax flakes or the color agents, please share 

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Beeswax Crayons #3
Grated soap
Paste food coloring
Veg oil 
1. Fill the pot with water about halfway up. Boil water in the pot.
2. Place the beeswax in a soup can and place the can in the boiling water.
3. Once the beeswax is melted, add grated soap. Stir until the soap melts and the mixture is smooth.
4. Add paste food coloring until you have the color you desire.
5. Coat your molds with a thin layer of vegetable oil. If you use cookie cutters, put them on a piece of wax paper on a flat surface.
6. Using pot holders to lift the can from the water, carefully pour the mixture into your molds. For cookie cutters, make sure to hold the cutters steady while you pour. Quickly place a heavy object such as a book on top of the cutter (if possible depending on the shape of the cutter) to ensure that the mixture doesn't leak out of the sides.
7. Allow the molds to cool. When they are cool to the touch, gently remove the hardened crayons. Then start coloring! 

Read more: How to Make Beeswax Crayons |

Paraffin Wax Crayons #1
Electric coffee/candle warmer
Soda straws
Metal measuring cup or aluminum foil formed into a cup
Powdered pigment: I used artist's quality pigments online from Gamblin - actually I already had some that I had bought for paint experiments.
Wax: My first experiment was with paraffin, which makes a very greasy and smudgy crayon. I read on a website devoted to rubbings that their crayons were made from carnauba wax, which was harder and enabled them to get the details from the rubbings. So I got some carnauba wax from our local Woodcraft store and tried it. It is so much better that the paraffin that I threw the old crayons away. Because it is very hard, you can get a very light line, but if you use pressure you can also get a dark line. It also has to do with how much pigment you add: if you don't put in enough iron oxide (ed: iron oxide is pigment) you are not going to get a dark tone even with pressure. I also use candelilla wax, which I had to order online. It is softer than carnauba but not too soft - a good choice. 
Put the metal measuring cup on the coffee warmer. You may have to bend the handle up so it won't tip over. You can also fashion a quick and dirty cup from aluminum foil. Turn on the heat. 
Put wax chips into the metal cup. When it is all melted into a liquid, add the dry pigment. 
The first crayons I made were too light, so I remelted them and made crayons with a heavier pigment load. (You can some of the mix on a stick, let it cool off and them make some test marks before proceeding. 
For my first crayons I made molds out of aluminum foil, but then I came up with what I think is a more elegant technique. Take a soda straw, fold the end over and tape it shut. Carefully pour the crayon mix into the straw and prop it upright to cool. When cool, carefully cut the straw away. If you need to reshape, refine or sharpen your crayon you can do it with a razor blade. Save the scraps so you can remelt them.
Safety Warnings:
Be careful which pigments you choose - I wouldn't risk doing this with anything I thought had a high toxicity. I have used Indian Red iron oxide, Ultramarine Blue and Titanium White. If you're careful you can keep dust to a minimum, but always use caution with pigment powders. Even iron, which is a trace mineral for the body, is toxic in excess. As far as titanium dioxide goes, one would think that if it's safe enough to put it makeup, it's safe enough for something like this. But who knows? 
The Indian Red crayon has a very nice color like the sanguine crayons of old. (I believe the process for those is different, and that they had a fired clay base.) 
I don't know of any historical precedent for monochrome drawings in blue crayon, but I like the look. 
The Titanium White crayons are great for highlighting crayon drawings or pencil drawings on toned paper.

Paraffin Wax Crayons #2 
The crayons will be heated and melted as described above, but you will be heating wax and adding pigment instead of re-melting broken crayon pieces. For the example below, I have used easy-to-obtain tea-light candles that are made of paraffin (not soy-based). 
For these crayons, you will need:
Paraffin tea-light candles
Dry Pigment
Dust Mask and gloves
Liquid glycerin
Stove-top or oven items from above
(If buying paraffin and pigment specifically for making crayons, and tea-light candles just seem an extra step or aren't convenient to buy, plan on approximately once ounce of pigment to every four ounces of wax.) 
I remove each tea-light candle from it's container, and pull the wick out from the bottom. This leaves a small paraffin circle to melt. I weigh these so that I know I have about four ounces per batch of color planned. 
The pigments shown in the two photos below are professional grade artist's dry pigments. Both the Rublev brand and the Gamblin brand are available online. I find these two brands to be high-quality pigments that are reasonably priced. Gamblin is slightly less expensive than Rublev, depending on the pigment involved. 
If using other brands, please check the labels for any additives or specific uses, as some dry pigments are meant for a specific purpose, or contain metallics that may be flammable. Always read the label. Wear a dust mask and gloves when handling all dry pigments. Do not use toxic pigments such as the Cadmiums, as repeated holding of the crayon will enable the cadmium pigment to enter the system through the skin and cadmium is a carcinogen. The same would of course apply for the lead-white pigments and any pigment that is not labeled as AP Non-Toxic. I cannot state this warning strongly enough regarding using dry pigments, and dry pigments should not be handled by children at any time. 

In this photo, I have mixed three colors of pigment: Warm Red Ochre, Cold Hematite, and Prussian Blue. These are going to be a basic Prussian Blue-based crayon. The amount of pigment-to-wax is going to be a little bit of trial and error for you, depending on the depth and opaqueness of the color crayon you want in the finished crayon. For these crayons, I used about 1 ounce of mixed dry pigment to approximately four ounces of melted paraffin. I added 3 eye-droppers full of liquid glycerin to every four ounces of blended wax and pigment, added just before pouring into molds. 
Heat the paraffin as above, and stir in the dry pigment. Continue to heat over low heat until you are sure all the pigment has blended completely. Just before pouring into molds, add the liquid glycerin and mix thoroughly. This acts as a hardening agent, making the resulting crayon more break-resistant. It is not essential, but does help crayons last longer. Pour the melted mixture into molds. Place into the refrigerator or let cool at room temperature until hardened. The small metal containers usually allow you to "pop" the crayon out of them, but they can be easily cut away if needed, and would then be considered disposable molds. 
Sometimes the pigment will sink through the paraffin- in this case, the Cold Hematite is a very heavy pigment, and made the pigment mix sink after it was blended and as it cooled. When this happens, the area of the crayon with pigment is of course more dense in color than you planned, and half of the crayon is simply wax. You can either shave off the clear wax, or leave it on the crayon to use as a burnisher wax as you draw. Some molds will allow this separation more than others, and the density of the pigment will affect the chance of this occurring. You could also re-melt any crayons this happened to, perhaps stirring for a longer period of time before pouring into molds. If doing that, do not remove the clear paraffin before re-melting. 
I took a further step of dipping them half-way into a differently colored wax that held no pigment. Prussian Blue is a very staining color, and by dipping the crayons this way, I know my hands will stay cleaner when holding the crayon. Dipping such as this is NOT a way to use toxic pigments in your crayons. 
Below are some more crayons made the same way, with different pigments, and using a chocolate mold for the crayon shape, in this case, an egg shape. Large shapes such as these egg shapes make nice landscape or large-work crayons. 
When using chocolate molds, placing some Crisco shortening in the molds before pouring the crayons makes release from the mold easier.