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I plant my strawberries using the Matted Row System.  I bought Earliglow June bearing strawberries about 8 years ago and started them in a tiered system.

I could never figure out how to manage the runners and so the weeds took over and I had to clean out the spot and start over. Luckily the strawberry plants were still there so I did not have to buy more. I simply had to reorganize the beds into something I could manage.

To the left is a picture of how over grown it had become with weeds.
To the right is a picture with it cleaned out but still having some trees roots that need digging. I dug all the tree roots out and then replanted my strawberries in row about 5 foot apart.

To the left is my cleaned out patch with strawberries about 5 foot apart giving me ample space with walking and picking strawberries. I laid down two pieces of newspaper over lapping with a hole cut to slip the strawberry plant through and then covered with about 6 inches of shredded paper. This mulch process will suppress most of the weeds, decompose to always add additional organic matter(fertilizer to my plants).

I now will take my runners from the strawberries and add to the left side of my rows thus growing the row left.  As the original row dies (in about 3 years) that will create the new path for picking.  When the newly created rows meet the "old row" I will start planting my runners to the right going back to the original row position.  This will go back and forth in a 6 to 10 years cycle giving me new plants to replace the old and keeping the strawberry patch fresh.

To the right are new rows of strawberries I have created by cutting some of the runners last year to grow a new larger patch of strawberries, this time using straw and news paper under the straw as a mulch and weed bearer.

The planters you see in the front of my strawberries also contain strawberry plants.  These are there just in case we move, then I have strawberry plant ready to trans port at anytime.  Some of my planter have asparagus (this is an experiment) in growing asparagus in containers.


If you have purchased bare root strawberries (plants not in a pot) the roots will be long and stringy.  Dig a wide, 3 inch deep hole and spread the roots out and cover up to the crown.  This will bring dirt up to just below the leaves of the strawberry, and cover. 

If you have purchased strawberries in a pot, dig a hole the size and depth of your pot and place in the ground matching the soil depth and cover.

If you are trying to plant your runners, wait until two to three leaves are formed at the end of your runner, loosed the dirt where you want the plant, press gently into the ground, add just a clump of dirt to hold in place.  In my patch I move aside a small place in the mulch, place the runner end into the space, put "U" pint to hold the plant or a small clump of dirt to hold the plant in place and then place the mulch around the new plant.  With shredded paper it is even easier than that.  I soak shredded paper in water, expose the dist where I want my plant and use the wet paper shreds (large handful) to hold the plant in place.  The runners will take root as soon as they are large enough (3 to four leaves) and find an area to lay down roots.

Strawberry runners can have 7 or eight plants attached.  The runner will grow out 12 inches or more, form a plant and when that plant is large enough, send out another runner from that new plant and so forth.  If left on their own some plants from the runner will find ground to replant and some won't.  Most plants will form new plants if you are diligent in "helping" those runners transplant.  If the first plant that is formed on a runner is successful in planting down new roots it will help the mother plant feed the runner and other plants forming on that same runner.