Experimenter's Guide to the Joe Cell 

By Alex Schiffer 


Chapter 1. 

" Since corrupt people unite amongst themselves to constitute a force, then honest people must do the same."

 Count Leo N. Tolstoy.





My intention ( to the best of my ability ) is to remove some of the mystery, secrets, guesswork and plain misinformation that surrounds the construction of the " cell ". The aim is to help the constructor make a cell in a laid out, step by step, method that I employ to make my own cells. My knowledge comes from making the cells. As I have built many working cells, this experience has given me the knowledge, not by guesswork or reading someone's book or listening to second or third hand " expert " opinions. I now pass this information on to you. and it will always stay as my opinion and information until you build your own cell. Only then will you know how to make a cell, and not before!


In approximately 1992 a new form of a generator was constructed in Australia. In preparation for this book, I spoke to both the designer and his fiancee, regarding my wish to give him the due credits, etc., for his 7 years of work and cooperation with all involved parties. Unfortunately due to the lunatic fringe and money grabbers that dealt with him, this poor, victimised individual has decided to relinquish any further involvement with the cell that bears his name. So in respect to his wishes, he will simply be referred to as Joe. I would simply like to say, dear Joe, that if it was not for rare individuals like you, we the vast brainwashed majority, would never find the true beauties of Mother Nature's gifts.

It is now probably to late to save Mother Earth from the years of pollution and desecration caused by the thoughtless money-grabbing multinationals. As a species, we are unique. Even a little simple bird keeps its nest clean, yet we the most intelligent of creation, destroy our only home! Yet, individuals like Joe show us that there is a better way, a simple pure way, Nature's way. Without the benefit(?) of years of dogmatic mind shrinking education, Joe found, by intuition, how to ask Nature a question in such a way that it answered. The answer was a method of powering machinery without the use of our primary resources or the creation of pollution. This method is well known to the select few and the technology has been around for centuries. Joe has made a crude easy to build version of this generator. The generator is called a Joe cell.

What is a Joe cell?

To find out, let us look at some of the characteristics of the cell as stated by Joe:

* The water in the cell is not consumed.

* The cell runs cold to the touch.

* It takes a period of time before the engine will run from the cell. It then has an erratic

power output and works in an intermittent fashion.

* When the cell is removed from the car, the engine takes an appreciable time to return

to " normal " and run from the original fuel.

* If the cell is left in the car for a long period, the engine becomes " charged ". From

this point, the cell is not required for the motor to run.

* All spark plug leads can be removed and the engine will still run as long as the

ignition coil and distributor remain functional.

* The output of the cell, does not have to be connected to the internals of the engine, a close external coupling will do.

* The cell requires the " charging " of the water to work.

* The " charged " water can be poured from one container to another without losing the

" charge ".

* The cell requires a specific style of construction, little understood by most constructors.

* An empirical construction style has evolved with little, if any, science or success.

* The source of power for the cell and its use has great value for some individuals. These

* individuals are creating misinformation, cloaking operations and fear to the cell constructors.

* Human presence can affect the operation of the cell in a positive or negative way.

There is much more information on the Joe cell that is available to the privileged few, but we have enough information from the above clues to identify the energy type. From the above, it is plain to see ( as I will explain to you ) that without a shadow of a doubt in my mind, the Joe cell is a crude Orgone accumulator, and that the cell runs on, or collects Orgone. There is a 100% correlation with Orgone energy and its properties. As these accumulators have been and are in use all over the world, the constructor can share in this vast pool of knowledge. For example, as early as the first of January 1867 a French patent, number 60,986 was issued to a Martin Ziegler for an accumulator of a living, non electrical type of force . The experimenter can with a little research, and notes like these, bypass the myths, misinformation and the mongers of secrets and get on with scientifically based facts. Also, he can be prepared to realise and meet the DANGERS that await the rash and fool hardy.

I would like to mention here the special dangers that are associated with the use of the life force, more particularly the Orgone energy. I presume that the reader is familiar with the arts required to experiment with hydrogen and oxygen, and is also competent in the use of the tools required to achieve the required results. You have read the disclaimer and I will leave it at that.

As you may be unfamiliar with Orgone, I would like to mention some additional precautions.

Orgone is very sensitive to disturbances and agitations from many sources. Thus the Orgone energy is very easily excited or irritated to produce toxic effects.

The following should be avoided:

* Any cathode ray device such as a TV sets, computers, oscilloscope, etc.

* Microwave ovens, fluorescent lights, luminous face watches, smoke detectors and electric blankets.

* Mobile phones and towers, courier radio telephone service or similar instrumentalities, airport radar and communication services, TV, AM, FM radio transmitters, radio traffic lights, police radar, high tension power lines, nuclear power plants, nuclear waste or storage facilities, and past or present nuclear testing areas.

The above electromagnetic and nuclear devices and materials are known to irritate Orgone energy, driving it into a severely excited state which Reich identified as the Oranur effect. These effects persist long after the irritation is removed ( years ). Under such persisting agitation, the Orgone energy eventually becomes immobilised and " dead ". Reich identified this deadened energy state as Dor ( Deadly Orgone ). A typical human reaction to Dor is lethargy, immobilisation and emotional remoteness. The most important effect is, that it tends to drive latent medical symptoms to the surface.


If  Oranur or Dor is present, an accumulator will amplify these tendencies .If my cells " play-up ", I feel very tired, my face looks and feels bloated, I have trouble with my eyes, and I feel as if I was sun burnt. You should dismantle the cell immediately and find the cause. As for yourself, have a cold shower as soon as possible and you should feel better.

  Chapter 2.


" How else should it be done then? , was always the immediate question. The answer is simple:

Exactly in the opposite way that it is done today! "

Viktor Schauberger.

As all known effects of Orgone are seen in the functioning of a Joe cell, it is reasonable to assume that the reader should have a good working knowledge of Orgone energy. Additionally, as the cell obeys all known Orgone laws and as the cell's operation does not contradict even one Orgone effect, it is safe to assume that this is the energy that is utilised in the cell. In honour of, and respect to one of the world's great, forgotten, and scorned scientists, namely Wilhelm Reich, I will continue to use the name Orgone as used by Reich. A multitude of other scientists, great and small, have given this mysterious force a name. In a following chapter I have listed at least 70 names by various individuals for the same or a similar force.

Orgone energy is the live cosmic energy of Nature. To quote Reich ... The Cosmic OR Energy fills the universe ... and ... it is a spontaneously pulsating, mass-free energy ...

For interested readers, there is a huge collection of facts, opinions and absolute rubbish on the Internet regarding Reich and Orgone. As the aim of this book is to focus on the Joe cell, the above definition will suffice.

Some properties of Orgone energy

Thousands of properties have been observed for the life force and I would like to list and explain the main ones relating to the cell.

1. It is mass free. ie. Orgone energy has no inertia or weight etc. So conventional test equipment that requires a reaction or something to " push " against to measure a force will be ineffective.

2. It is present everywhere, but more importantly to the Joe cell user, the concentration is variable from place to place and from time to time. Therefore, if the cell is leaky and located in a low concentration area, it may stop breeding or even loose the seed. The external signs are a motor that will not produce full power or will not run at all.

3. It in constant motion. It has an uneven movement from West to East at a speed considerably greater than the earths rotation. The motion is a pulsating expansion and contraction and a flow normally along a curved path. Inside an accumulator, the energy is emitted as a spinning, pulsating wave. Both of these can be seen to varying degrees in a charging vat and/or cell. These signs are very important to the experimenter as they are his tools in the different stages of seeding and breeding of the cell.

4. It negates the laws of entropy. Orgone energy flows from lower concentrations to higher concentrations ie. Orgone attracts concentrations to itself. This is the normal process of creation and as such is a proof of Orgone being a living energy. For the experimenter, this is very important, especially in the seeding stage. If the cell is located in an unfavourable location, it may not seed or take a long time to seed. I have had cells taking 4 weeks to seed, others take only a few days.

5. Matter is created from it. Under appropriate conditions, which are not rare or unusual, I have had different minerals formed from identical cells. This in my case is usually a white or green powder that forms as very fine colloid that eventually sinks to the bottom of the cell. You definitely do not want this to occur in the Joe cell as the cell will not run the car and the only solution is to completely dismantle, repolish and clean all components. For the sceptical, you may assume that the deposits are coming out of the water. I strongly disagree.

6. It can be manipulated and controlled. We do this in the cell by forming alternate organic and non-organic " cylinders " to form an accumulator for the Orgone. Thus the organic layers attract and soak up the Orgone and the metallic layers draw it from the organic material and radiate it into the interior of the accumulator. Additionally we use electricity, magnetism and electrolysis to assist with the breeding process.

7. It comes from the sun in vast quantities. As such, allowing for thermal lag, the Orgone density peaks in the afternoon and diminishes in the early morning hours. As people have found, a leaky cell will not function as it " dies " around 3 am to 4 am.

8. It is affected by weather, ie. humidity, cloud, temperature and time of day affects the accumulation of Orgone. For the experimenter with a leaky cell this explains the weird behaviour of leaky cells ie. sometimes they work, other times not, but if you stand on one foot, talk to it, try different water, chemistry, more or less power etc. it will " come good ". This has created a whole religion of what you must do or not do, to such an extent that with the blind leading the blind, the cell in the hands of a casual constructor is doomed to failure.

9A. It moves in the direction of a magnetic field. This is highly significant to the cell builder. This factor controls the position and polarity of the cell's internal wiring as well as controlling how much residual magnetism the steel can have and still allow the cell to work. This is critical in the choice and cutting operations of the related metals. Again, a whole mythology has developed around this area. From reading previous material on the subject, it seems that the steel has to be cut by vestal virgins in the Black Forest on a moonlit night!

9B. It moves at right angle to an electrical field. Again, highly important, as it dictates polarity and wiring connection to the cell.

10. It is absorbed by water. This is one of the reasons that we use water in the cell. To be successful, the water has to be the right type of water. By the way, for example, we could have used bees wax instead of water, but as we want to encourage the breeding process with all the tricks in the book, the bees wax would have prevented the use of electrolysis.

11. It is polarised. As Orgone is polarised, that is , we can have positive or negative Orgonic force, so we can build a positive or negative cell. But, if you mix your positive and negative construction materials as most people do, then your result is a leaky or non-operational cell.

12. It will penetrate or travel along all known materials. All bodies of continuous structure are equally good conductors eg. It may travel through 70 feet or more of metal. As such, do not think that you are trapping it in the cell. The only reason it stays in the cell at all is because it wants to. It is up to the experimenter to set up a seeding and breeding environment that is conducive to Orgone and not try to create an imaginary prison that the experimenter hopes will trap the Orgone. As a side note, mankind has created synthetic materials in recent times that can greatly stop the penetration of Orgone. I am talking about polymers.

13. It has a slow conduction rate. Orgone will take 20 seconds or more to traverse 50 yards of wire. For the experimenter, this means that you should wait about 30 seconds after turning power on to the cell before you can expect to observe Orgone action at a stable rate.

14. It exhibits a constant upward tendency, raising vertically. Highly important in creating a non-leaky cell installation in an car.

15. It cannot remain in steel or water longer than about 1 hour. Simply said, if you cell is not breeding, it will die in about 1 hour. This explains the use of a 1.5 Volt battery across leaky cells to maintain a breeding process. What you achieve with the small potential across the cell, is a very low rate of electrolysis that matches the leaking of the cell and thus maintaining the breeding process.

16. It radiates a great distance. From a typical cell the radiation circumference is at least 160 feet. Think about it!

17. It follows optical laws. It can be refracted by a prism, reflected by polished surfaces, etc. This explains the reason for the mirrored or highly polished surfaces in some parts of the cell. It also allows us to control some leaking by utilising optical laws.

18. It surrounds itself with alternating spherical zones of opposite polarity. This is utilised by us to determine cylinder diameters and consequential spacing in the optimisation of the cell.

19. It is affected by living beings. Again, important, as the experimenter and his attitude can interact with the cell

20. It can only be concentrated to a finite amount. If a cell is charged to its maximum degree so that it can hold no more, the Orgone will transform itself into electricity, and in this way or form, find a discharge. By the visual observation of the bubbles, pulsations, and surface tension of the water, we utilise this fact to our advantage.


21. Torsion ( Orgone ) fields transmit information without transmitting energy, and they propagate through physical media without interacting with the media.

22. Torsion ( Orgone ) fields cannot be shielded by most materials, but can be shielded by materials having certain spin structures. As in point 12 above.

23. Each physical object, in living or non-living nature, possesses its own characteristic torsion ( Orgone ) field.

24. All permanent magnets possess their own torsion ( Orgone ) field.

25. Torsion ( Orgone ) fields can be generated as a result of a distortion of the geometry of the physical vacuum. This is demonstrated by pyramids, cones, cylinders, flat triangles, etc.

26. Torsion ( Orgone ) fields can be screened by aluminium. This allows the use of aluminium coated mirrors, or highly polished aluminium to reflect our Orgone ( Torsion ) field. See point 17 above.

27 It will pass through all materials, but at different speeds.

Chapter 3


" Matter is latent force, and force free matter " The mystic school

.At no stage do I even remotely hint that the following terms are identical. The purpose of the list is to show the many names given to unexplainable forces of which Orgone is one.

Akasa. Hindus. Animal magnetism. Mesmer.

Arealoha. Francis Nixon. Astral light. Kabbalists.

Baraka. Sufis. Bio-cosmic energy. Dr. Oscar Brunler.

Biodynamic Ether. Rudolf Steiner. Biofield. Yu. V. Tszyan.

Bioplasma. Russians. Biotronic. Czechs.

Brahma. Hindus. Ch'i. Chinese.

Chronal field. A. I. Veinik. Cosmic energy.

Cosmo-electric energy George Starr. D-field. A. A. Deev.

Dige. Apache. Digin. Navaho.

Dynamis. Ancient Greeks. Eckankar.

El. Hebrews. Elan-vital. Henri Bergson.

Electrogravitation. T. T. Brown. Elima. Nkundu.

Eloptic energy. T. Galen Hieronymus. Eloptic radiation. Hieronymus.

Entelechy. Dreisch. Ether. Aristotle.

Ethertricity. Gaston Burridge. Fermi Energy.

Fluroplasmic energy. B. Hilton. G-field. Sir Oliver Lodge.

Gravity field energy. H. A. Nieper. Hike. Egyptians.

Hullo. Chickasaw. Ka. Egyptians.

Kerei. Indonesians. Kirlian effect.

Latent neutral. Keely. Life Force. Dr. Aubrey T. Westlake.

Logoital plasma. Hieronymus. Magnetic Fluid. Mesmer.

Manitou. Algonquian. Manna of the Polynesians.

Manna. Israelites. Maxpe. Crow.

Mitogenetic emanation. A. G. Gurvich. Mon-emanation. I. M. Shakhparnov.

Multipolar energy. V. V. Lensky. Mumia. Paracelsus.

Mungo. African. N-emanation. M. R. Blondolt.

Negative entropic energy. James DeMayo. Nervous Ether. Richardson.

Nervous Ether. Richardson. Neutral force. Kabbala.

Neutricity. Gallimore. Neutrino sea. P. A. A. Dirac.

Numen. Romans. Odic Force. Baron Karl Von Reichenbach.

Orenda. Iroquoi. Orgone Energy. Dr. Wilhelm Reich.

Pneuma. Gallien. Prana. Hindus.

Psychotronic energy. Czechs. Pure non manifest energy. Todd R. Knudtso

Reiki. Japanese. Scalar energy.

Space energy. Spiritus. Fludd.

Tachyon energy. Telesma. Hermes Trismegistus.

Time emanation. N. A. Kozyrev. Tinh. Annamites of Vietnam.

Tondi. Sumatra. Universal life force. Baron Eugene Ferson.

Virtue. Jesus. Vis medicatrix. Hippocretes.

Vvis naturalis. Vital Fluid. Alchemists.

Vril. Wakan. Sioux.

Wakonda. Omaha. X-agent. H. Moriyama.

X-Force. L. E. Eeman. Z-emanation. A. L. Chizhevsky.

Chapter 4


" It was especially forbidden to divulge the law of attraction and repulsion,

which constitutes nature's greatest secret. "

Mrs. Bloomfield-Moore, circa 1893.

As Orgone is polarised, either positive or negative, it can be manifested sometimes as both polarities for a short period of time. In our search for the perfect Joe cell, it is essential to utilise polarity-conducive materials in the construction of the cell. With the use of suspect materials that encourages the creation or retention of both polarities, the cell is not only a poor breeder ,but also leaky. I would strongly encourage the experimenter to choose to construct either a negative or positive cell and not to use materials at random or what happens to be handy or cheap. This is a sure way to failure.

Positive ( Warm ) Negative ( Cool )

Root fibres of plants Tips of plant leaves

Negative electricity Positive electricity

Iron Selenium

Copper Sulphur

Tin Iodine

Lead Palladium

Brass Cobalt

German silver Phosphorus

Alkalies Acids

Alkaloids Charcoal

Argentinium silver Evaporation

Mercury Steaming

The base, ( non pointy end ), of crystals Tip of crystals

Friction Sound

Magnetic South Magnetic North

Left hand Right hand

Left side of body Right side of body

Back of neck Forehead

Running water Distillation

Bismuth Vibration

Zinc Tellurium

Osmium Decomposition

Titanium Oxides

Potassium Haccoid salts

Calcined lime Chemical reaction

Caffeine Vinegar

Paraffin Alcohol

Creosote Mouth and tongue

Moon Sun

Planets Stars

Red end of sun's spectrum Blue end of sun's spectrum

As seen from the above short list, chemical reaction, electrolysis, evaporation, steaming, vibration, sound and chemicals are the most common goings on in the cell and in the motor. To rephrase, since the natural events in our cells habitat favour these actions, I would suggest that the experimenter builds a cell that utilises as many of these parameters as possible, until he gains the knowledge of the causes of the cell behaviour. I personally only build acid cells. I have a dislike of the corrosion associated with alkaline cells and also find that the water remains crystal clear and the insulators do not fail in my acid cells.

Chapter 5.


" Everything that is natural is silent, simple and cheap "

Viktor Schauberger.

After 6 years of experimentation, I made the assumption that the Joe cell was working on Orgone energy. This assumption came as a result of hundreds of hours of reading and experimentation. In all that time, all the recorded effects of Orgone, ( and there are hundreds ) have matched the behaviour of the Joe cell. There has never been a departure from the known recorded effect of Orgone energy, not even one! As such it would take a far braver man than I to argue with the huge supporting evidence of thousand's of man-hours and the work from hundreds of qualified individuals from all over the world. So, as my own humble experiments agree with the majority, I have said, and will repeat many times, the cell runs or more correctly, accumulates Orgone energy.

Theoretical requirements

Sometimes I have to restate the obvious, namely, if we are to accumulate Orgone energy, we must have an Orgone accumulator! We are not designing this cell to use Neutrino's, Deuterium, Nitro-glycerine, steam, Nitrogen, Hydrogen, Hydroxy, or any other author's pet opinion to the contrary. You will have to read other publications for those topics and cell designs, this train goes to Orgone country. We are designing our cell to run on Orgone energy! When I say " we ", I am assuming that the reader is following suit, and will build a cell closely matching these instructions. As such, a close study of the chapters on Orgone properties and cell polarities would be in order. If you were a naughty boy and skipped over these sections, I would suggest that you read them now. So what have you discovered? You should be in agreement with me on at least two points, ie. that the cell should use as many of one type of Orgone polarity materials and properties as possible, and additionally, we want to utilise as many as possible of all external forces available to us to assist us in the accumulation of the Orgone energy.

Are we on the right track with our Joe cell accumulator? What would we aim for in the design of a perfect energy accumulator ? Is there any better way to go? Maybe we are on the wrong track? At this stage it may be a good idea to consider the design parameters for the ultimate energy source. After all, why waste our time with the Joe cell if there is a " better " way of getting our energy. Better meaning, cheaper, parts effective, less polluting, less destructive, longer lasting, etc. If we look at the quote from Viktor Schauberger at the start of this chapter, "... natural, silent, simple and cheap..." is a very good starting point. Let me give you a brief list of the requirements of this magic accumulator and see if we are on the right track with the Joe cell:

* The Joe cell is natural as it operates on the life force ( Orgone ). It is the only natural man-made energy producing device that does a direct interchange from a primary energy source to the final energy supply. As such it seems to provide " free energy " and thus be an impossibility. This is a huge stumbling block for people who do not understand the concept of " free energy ".

* The Joe cell is silent. There are no moving parts. A solar panel or Peltier effect device would be the closest highly inefficient relations.

* The Joe cell is simple. No moving parts, a set of cylinders and water, you could not get it any more simple.

* The Joe cell is cheap. After the initial outlay, there are no further material costs or replacements required to worn-out parts. The Joe cell is virtually everlasting. If you build one with second hand components, your total outlay should be under AUS $200.00

* When we use energy that is at its fundamental stage ie. the energy cannot be broken up into any other energy constituents that are at a smaller level; we have no waste by-products and thus no pollution. The Joe cell runs on the life force energy ( Orgone ) which is a fundamental force of the Universe. You are not going to get any more basic than that!

* Any centrifugal, expanding and exploding force is wasteful due to the creation of heat. Any device that generates heat as part of its operation can never be considered an efficient energy source.

Nor can it ever be an over unity device. The Joe cell runs cool and so does the motor that runs from it.

* Any energy produced from a set of conversion stages is wasteful. For example, a nuclear submarine has a nuclear reactor to create heat. The heat is used to create steam from water. The steam drives a steam turbine. The steam turbine is used to run an electric generator. The electric generator is used to drive an electric motor. The electric motor turns a propeller. The propeller twists in water thus providing a thrust. The thrust propels the submarine. You would have to be kidding! No wonder that superior beings roll on the floor with laughter on observing our " technology ". How unnatural is all that? The Joe cell converts the primary life force ( Orgone ) into an expanding multiple use force in one step. Beautifully simple!

* The Orgone does not have to be stored or converted and stored. It is an on-demand system and thus there is no infra-structure required to store, distribute, ship, sell, etc. Unlike petrol, it is the same price each week ( free ). Definitely not good news for the oil multi-national concerns. Maybe that is why we are not using this force? < grin>.

So to summarise, I would say that, ( to the best of my knowledge ) as there is no alternative energy device to compete with the Joe cell, we would be on the right track if we build a cell that ran on Orgone. Please note that the Joe cell and its construction has limitations and negatives as you have already read and will read in later chapters. As we do not live on a perfect world, we are not perfect humans and the Joe cell is not a perfect device.

Making a theoretical cell

By reading through the list of Orgone properties and selecting the ones that look useable, you should have selected these:

Property 14. As it has a preference for a vertical and constant upward alignment, we will have the outlet of our cell at the top most point of the final structure.

Property 6 As it can be manipulated, it means that we can build a container to house it. We will have cylindrical cylinders, concentric and with a vertical axis to fit in with Property 14.

Property 10. As it is absorbed in water, we are going to make a water cell. As we are dealing with water, the cell has to be water proof and non corrosive.

Property 20. As it can only be concentrated to a final amount, we know that sooner or later something will occur in the vertical plane and with our outlet located at the top of this vertical axis, ie. Property 14, something will come out.

Property 9A As it moves in alignment with a magnetic field, we know that if we place one of our potential's at the bottom of our " conductor ", and the other potential at the top of our " conductor " a magnetic field will result and the Orgone field will move in the same direction. As our conductors are the metal cylinders, they now must have a concentric vertical alignment to fit in with Property 14. As we are dealing with magnetic fields, our cell material should not interfere with the chosen field that assists the Orgone to follow in a vertical alignment. Also, as we are dealing with water, electrolytes and magnetism, the cell material suitable for the simple cell should be stainless steel with a low as possible magnetic residual. Just on the side, our " conductor " is a complex combination of water, stainless steel cylinders and ion flow. Nevertheless, it will create a directional magnetic field

Property 9B. As it move at right angle to an electrical field, our concentric vertical cylinders prove a perfect match, ie. the electric current flow is from the inner most cylinder, to the outer most cylinder in horizontal lines. As the Orgone flows at right angles to this field, the end result is again a vertical alignment of Orgone. Good stuff!

Now, from the table of Orgone polarities, we can get a few more " helper's " to coax the Orgone force to work for us;

The electrolysis will be very interesting to it, and as Joe said, connecting the power to the cell when the engine is running is like switching the turbocharger on full boost, man you are off! Like wise the friction from the reciprocating parts in the engine will get it to go in and have a peek and then, " got you! ", we can use it! The sound and vibration are additional bonuses when the car is running.

Capacitor effect

For the electronically versed readers, let me explain to you one way that the cell acts as a concentric energy accumulator. It is a well known fact that the charge of a capacitor is proportional to the surface area of the plates. Similarly, we know that the potential increases as we bring the plates closer together. Now look at the beauty of the Joe cell. We have a set of concentric plates with an obvious reduction of surface area as we move towards the middle of the cell, ie. as the cylinder gets smaller in diameter, the surface area reduces proportionally. Now, as the surface area of the cylinders decrease towards the middle, we automatically have the charge increasing as we move towards the center! Therefore, the greater the number of cylinders, the greater or more intense is this charge build up. So, thrown in at no extra design cost is an automatic magnifier for the Orgone force that is concentrated automatically at the center of the cell. The above applies only if the water can act as an dielectric, ie. that it does not have too many ions in the water. Thank you Nature! By the way, on a larger scale, the earth is the middle of the accumulator and the different atmospheric layers are the cylinders that concentrate the sun radiations.

End result

We now have a theoretical cell. It is made from a plurality of concentric stainless steel cylinders in water, with an application of a suitable electric and magnetic field, and a top-located outlet on a vertical aligned cell.

So, the above is the layout and the logic in the construction of a theoretical cell. Now, dear Joe did not do any of the science, did not know any of the scientists, did not read any related books and did not know what Orgone was, but by a stroke of sheer luck and intuition, he made his final cell in the above configuration, and the rest is history! Yes, dear friend, our theoretical cell is exactly how you should make you practical working cell. This will be explained in the next chapter.

Chapter 6


" There is no ideal crucible, no crucible so perfectly sealed and protected that it can be considered a closed system, a unit absolutely isolated from the rest of the universe.

Raymond Abellio, circa 1975.

In this section, I would like to take you step by step, through the cell construction process. I have stated in other sections of this book and I would like to also state here that there are countless methods of constructing Orgone accumulators. The method described here is based on the Joe cell construction techniques. For a very comprehensive description of this type of cell, I would presume that the reader has read, or has access to, a copy of Barry Hilton's book, "How to run Your Car on Zero Point Energy ". This book contains in words and diagrams what Joe wanted the public to know about his cell. As such it is essential reading.

Note. I have a copy of the above book and recommend it to others, but!, that does not imply that I agree with the theories or facts as expressed by Barry and Joe. Nor does it imply that I promise you that if you buy the above book, you will be able to " run " your car, or even have a working cell. Simply stated, I see Barry's book and my own, as pieces similar to the pieces of others, in a jig saw puzzle. If you put all the pieces together, you will understand the life force, or whatever else you want to call it. You do not require all the pieces if you only want to " run " a car, but the more pieces you have, the greater is you understanding of the causes, not just the effects. Thus the car will run for a longer period of time without mysterious " down times ".

I am not interested, as established before, in arguing, challenging, debating, competing, or defending my written notes with any parties. I give you these notes freely as a pointer, to show you a method of cell construction that works for me. If you have something constructive to contribute, I will gladly alter my notes.

Right, with the preamble out of the way, lets get to work. I will go through each step:

A. Parts list.

B. Selection of materials.

C. Machining operations.

D. Options.

E. Assembly.

A. Parts list.

The following parts lists, tie in with section D.

Common to all vats and cells, you will require lugs that can fit over a ½ inch ( 12 mm. ) bolt, and multi strand wire capable of flowing 10 Amps continuously, red for positive and black for negative. You may want to purchase an in-line fuse holder and a few 5 Amp fuses to suit.

A1. Charging vat. ( Optional item ).

This vat can be any suitable low paramagnetic food grade steel container. A favourite with Joe and others is a stainless steel beer keg. These seem to be plentiful,. but be wary of quality. The seam welds are particularly paramagnetic. There is a story of Joe testing about a hundred kegs before he found one that he liked. Unless you are going to use the large cones, about 10 inches ( 250 mm. ) diameter, I see no useful purpose to have such a large charging vat. Even if you employ it to fill up your radiator, it is still a hell of a lot of water. I could see a use for one as a shared club or group resource, but not for one individual. I personally use a much smaller vat with an internal working height of 11 inches and a diameter of 8 inches. This type of keg has the advantage of not being seam welded horizontally half way up the container. This is exactly where you do not want any magnetic bands! My cone diameters are either 5.5 inches or 6 inches depending on the scrap metal dealer.

So, you will need:

1 x Keg of your chosen size.

8 x Cones of chosen size.

1 x Nylon, or similar, central cone support rod.

8 x Nylon, or similar, spacer washers to suit cones and central support rod.

16 x Neoprene O-rings to suit central support rod

1 x 300 mm. long by 6 mm. diameter ( approx ) stainless steel support rod. ( Use horizontally across keg to hold central rod and cone assembly ).

1 x 1 meter long ( approx ), by 12 mm. wide stainless steel strap, approximately 1 mm. thick.

6 x Stainless steel pop rivets.

Note. If you just want to get on with it, and you only want to charge your car cell, you do not require a charging vat. Its main virtue is the quantity of water and the ability to remove any scum from the top of the water. Unfortunately, as you car cell is enclosed, this scum is not so readily removed, but there is nothing to stop you charging the water in your car cell, tipping out you stage 3 water in a glass container, filtering this water and reintroducing it back into you car cell. Anyway, if you use the methods described in these notes, you will find that your scum will be at a minimum. I have always charged my car cells as a stand alone unit, ie. no charging vat. The advantages are that you know that the cell and the water are okay and not just the water, as the case would be, if you simply added the water out of your charging vat into your car cell.

A2. 4 cylinder test cell.

The test cell is a vital piece of equipment that you should make. It has two main functions: One, it is a training aid for you while you are learning about the different stages of charging the water. You will easily be able to observe the different bubble types, surface tensions, deposits in the sump and colloidals suspensions in the water. Two, you will be able to fill it up with suspect water from you main car cell and test to see if the water is still at stage 3. You do not have to be Einstein to work out that your test cell container should be transparent.

You will need;

1 x Glass or clear ( not translucent ) acrylic container about 6 inches ( 150 mm. ) diameter by about 8 inches ( 200 mm. )tall. The container must have a lid!

1 x Set of 1 inch, 2 inch, 3 inch and 4 inch cylinders about 5 inches ( 125 mm ) long.

18 x ½ inch ( 12 mm. ) diameter by ½ inch long spacers.

1 x Approx. 10 inches ( 250 mm ) stainless steel strap as per charging vat parts list.

2 x Small stainless steel nuts and screws to secure the strap to the plastic or glass container.

2 x Stainless steel pop rivets.

1 x 1.5 feet ( 500 mm. ) of heat shrink tubing to fit over you stainless steel strap.

2 x Lower acrylic support combs, ( to be described later ).

Note. If you use the glass jar, you may want to insert the negative via a ½ inch ( 12 mm. ) stainless steel bolt via a hole that you drill through the bottom of the jar. In that case, you will need a 3 inch ( 76 mm. ) stainless steel bolt, nut and washer, plus two Nylon or Teflon machined washers where the bolt exits the glass container. The extra effort may not be worth it unless you can get the parts cheaply.

A3. 4 cylinder car cell.

The construction of the 4 cylinder and 5 cylinder cells are the same except for the extra cylinder and 6 spacers. Thus I will only describe the construction of the 5 cylinder cell. If you want to make a 4 cylinder cell, follow the construction of the 5 cylinder cell without the extra cylinder.

Note. The only reason that I mention the 4 cylinder cell at all, is again due to the myths that have developed in the " field ". Basically, the story goes like this: It is rumoured that if you do not use the charging vat, you can only charge and run you car with a 5 cylinder cell. You supposedly cannot charge you water with a 4 cylinder cell, only run you car on it. Joe also mentions in his video that he thinks that the 4 cylinder may even run the car better than the 5 cylinder cell. Personally, I have found that you can charge both a 4 and a 5 cylinder cell and thus, they will also run the car. As the leakage of a cell is determined by the " layers " or number of concentric cylinders, the 5 layer cell is a better cell. I have found that a 5 cylinder cell works much better for me and I really have nothing to recommend the 4 cylinder cell for, except that it is a smaller cell. There is still meagre feedback from constructors, so the jury is still out.

A4. 5 cylinder test cell.

This is my favourite configuration. My very first test cell was a glass 5 cylinder cell with 7 inch long cylinders. This cell has been in constant use now, for about 6 years, still not broken after countless dismantles and services. The insulators and cylinders after 6 years are as good as they were on day 1.

This cell uses the ½ inch bolt-through-the-bottom alternative.

The construction is the same as the 4 cylinder test cell, with the addition of 6 extra spacers to support the extra 5 inch cylinder. That's it.

A5. 5 cylinder car cell.

This is the one, dear people. You either get this one right or end of Joe cell as reality and back to fantasy. This is the baby that has to seed and breed for you. This is the one that has to be reliable and sludge free. This is the one that people will judge your sanity on. If it does not work, you go down the path of all other failures and dreamers. Conversely, when you get it working, you will not be able to count all your new " friends ". They will all want one, just " like the wizard made ".

There are variations, I will give you my favourite one, you will need:

1 x Set of hand selected, polished, clean, low paramagnetic, ( maybe heat treated ) 1 inch, 2 inch, 3 inch and 4 inch inner cylinders, of 8 inch length, or length very close to 8 inches, as calculated from own your calculations as per Chapter 7.

1 x 5 inch diameter outer cylinder, as above, but 10 inches long.

1 x Lower plate, one 5 inch thread, one 5 inch O-ring seal and one 5 inch nut to suit the above

outer casing. This is not of-the-shelf. You will need machine work to make the press fit

section. See diagram.

1 x Top cone. This is a standard 5 inch to 1 inch tube reducer. Apex angle to suit material but between 60 and 90 degrees and optimally 57 degrees for 316L stainless.

24 x ½ inch diameter by ½ inch long ebonite or similar spacers.

1 x 3 inch long by ½ inch diameter stainless steel bolt, nut and washer.

2 x Nylon or Teflon machined insulators for bolt exit.

1 x 1 inch ( 24 mm.) diameter compression fitting for your cell outlet. This outlet will be a right- angle or straight fitting depending on your individual requirement. This is where your 1 inch ( 24 mm. ) outside diameter aluminium engine pipe fits in.

1 x A suitable length of 1 inch outside diameter ( 24 mm. ) aluminium tube for your cell to engine blind plug fitting. ( My tube has a 20 mm. inside diameter but this is not critical ).

1 x 1 inch ( 24 mm. ) long, ½ inch ( 13 mm. ) inside diameter stainless steel tube. This slips over the stainless steel bolt and holds the inner cylinders clear of the bottom

3 x Acrylic combs to support the inner cylinders. Optional, to be described later.

Note. All components should have the minimum paramagnetic field possible. Your test magnet can be slightly attracted, but must not stick and support its own weight! All parts are to be cleansed in mild vinegar or acetic acid that has been added to juvenile water. Do not leave finger prints on any stainless steel surface.

Regarding heat treating, as the Curie point of most stainless steel is 800F and higher, our heat treatment must exceed this temperature. Two methods that work are:

1. Local advice from a Melbourne heat treatment operator: he suggests to place the material in an oven at 1200F for three hours in a Nitrogen gas, then reduce the temperature slowly to atmospheric over twelve hours.

2. TM Technology, ( http://.www.tinmantech/html/faq_stainless_working_joe-c.html ) suggest 800F to 1200F for ½ to 2 hours.

B. Selection of material.

Material selection can be broken down into:

B1. Stainless steel cylinders and cones or domes.

A vast amount of good advice and pure drivel has been written on this subject. So much so, that I had cell builders from USA telling me that the right grade 316l stainless steel is unobtainable over there, and Australia is the only place that is can be sourced from! I have also been told by " experts " that this steel can only be made in the Southern Hemisphere ( due to the Earth's magnetic field rotation, ) and that is why the Joe cell only works in Australia and New Zealand! When I tell them that I cannot afford to buy new steel and obtain most of my stock via scrap metal dealers from dismantled American and British food machinery, they then think I am hiding the truth from them and that I am somehow refusing to show them the " secrets " of the cell design. What can you do with some people?

So, where do we go to get this " unobtanium " material? Where is the line between fact and fiction?

First of all, let's go to the start of Joe and his cell designs. You would have noticed historically that he used plastic and stainless steel in his designs and, irrespective of the material used, ALL types of cells worked for him. So it does not have to be stainless steel at all! As I will show in a later book, stainless steel is really quite a lousy material, but will suffice for this cell. However, as people, including Joe, experimented with various chemicals, they discovered that some stainless steels had three main advantages; namely, it formed a good pressure container, it was impervious to the majority of chemicals and it was " non-magnetic ".

I will list some of the " non-magnetic " stainless steel, but please note that all stainless steel will be magnetic to some slight degree:

AISI 304. Used in dairy, textile, dyeing and chemical industries for containers subject to different types of corrosive conditions.

AISI 316. Parts for chemical and food plants, wearable for high temperature.

AISI 316L. As for 316, but with superior corrosion resistance when exposed to many types of chemical corrosives, as well as marine atmospheres. It also has superior creep strength at elevated temperatures.

AISI 310. Furnace parts, radiant tubes, annealing boxes and heat treatment fixtures.

AISI 410. Cooking utensils, turbine blades, coal screens and pump rods.

AISI 420. For the automobile and aircraft industry. Components such as valves, pistons, and nuts and bolts.

AISI 431. Parts requiring highest strength and rust resistance.

Now, for reasons that I do not fully understand, the Joe cell fraternity has decided that only 316L will do. I have proved over and over that this is a myth. Not only that, I would challenge any builder to pick 316L stainless from similar grades at a scrap metal dealer! What we are looking for are cylinders, cones and domes that have the least remanent paramagnetism. This is easily checked by taking your faithful rare earth magnet to your metal dealer. My magnet is only 5 mm. diameter by 3 mm thick and is attached to a convenient length of fishing line. By swinging the magnet near the stainless steel you will easily see how paramagnetic the steel is. Especially check the longitudinal or spiral seam welding. The magnet will be attracted to the seam, but reject the material if weld seam is discoloured for more than ¼ of an inch ( 6 mm. ), or it is a different thickness to the rest of the metal, or the magnet sticks and stays there supporting its own weight.


* Always have a keeper on your test magnet when you carry it in you pocket, as it just loves to " wipe out " credit cards and similar magnetic stripe products!

* Do not use a ferrite magnet! similar to the easily obtainable round speaker magnets that every experimenter has in abundance. These are nowhere near strong enough and you will be deluded into thinking that you have found " Joe cell steel heaven ", as the stainless steel will pass your magnetic tests.

If you plan to heat treat you cell components after all machining and welding operations, the selection process does not have to be quite so rigorous. I personally would get the least paramagnetic steel anyway, as it is no extra in a scrap dealer and you may not have to heat treat the completed cell.

* If you are buying new stainless stock be prepared for some awfully dodgy 316L stainless.

It seems to vary tremendously with the country of origin. I have found that certified stainless in a plastic wrappers and with '316L' written longitudinally and repetitively along the whole length is generally fine. You will find that when you spin a good piece in a lathe and gently hold it with your hand, a good piece will feel " round ", but with a bad piece, you will feel longitudinal ripples. Similarly when you are cutting a piece of genuine 316L you will hear a ringing and the saw will be really working to cut it. I have cut some so-called 316L that cuts like butter! Believe me, real 316L is a bitch to work with.

Summary of the above. Since 316L is " the best ", try to buy some certified 316L stock. Try to buy some seamless tube if you can. Do not buy any on some salesperson's guarantee that it is non-magnetic. Test it! If they will cut it free of charge, see how they cut it and get it cut at least 1 inch, ( 25 mm. ) oversize. Usually a top supplier will charge about a $1.00 a cut with a liquid cooled band saw. In such a case, you do not require a large waste margin, a ¼ inch will do for you truing operation on the lathe. Make sure that there are no dents or major scratches in the sections that you purchase.

The cones are usually an off-the-shelf reducer and you should have no problems in getting what you want ( except for price ). The cones normally have seam welds, so check these. You can also get of-the-shelf, any compression fitting, flange, thread, blanking cap, bolts, nuts and washer. What you can buy is only limited by the size of your wallet All certified stock, even the washers, will have '316' written or stamped into the component. If you are using dome ends of varying geometrical configurations, you will have to have them hand beaten or spun to you dimensions. I don't have to tell you that anything to do with stainless is expensive. Think about it three times and buy once only! Consider carefully what cone angle you want to use. For example, a cone reducer from 5 inches to 1 inch can be made in many different angles. Do not assume, that because the end holes are the correct diameter, that this automatically makes the optimum cone angle.

B2. Insulation material and cylinder spacers.

The insulation material that is used where the ½ inch ( 12.5 mm. ) bolt exits the lower cell fitting is not that critical. I have used Nylon, Teflon and similar polypropylene and polycarbonates. They all work fine. Find a plastics supplier and rummage through his bin of rod offcuts, or if that fails, you will have to buy some. The colour is not important. I use a white or off white as a preference. Teflon is by far the best, if you can afford it. I do not use it. I buy 2 inch ( 50 mm. ) greasy Nylon rod that is far cheaper and that I machine to my final sizes.

The insulators between the cylinders are a different story. These tend to have deposits formed on them over a long ( over 6 months ) period of time. The can also crack or loose their elasticity causing the cylinders to move, or they will disintegrate or turn to jelly. When I first started on this project, I copied Joe and used rubber " counter hose " as found on the roads in that era for traffic monitoring. This hose material is no longer in use, and there was really nothing special about it, just handy as it was always laying around on some road or other < grin >.

As my cell design developed, I started matching my materials with the Orgone polarity. I found sulphur based product ideal for the acid cell, so now I use ½ inch ( 12 mm. ) ebonite rod. I am not telling you to start using ebonite rod, only that it is a suitable spacer. Ebonite rod is quite cheap eg. ½

inch diameter by a meter long is about AUS $6.00. In Melbourne you can obtain it from E. C. Menzies Pty. Ltd., 19 Ewing St. Brunswick. Phone is (03) 9387-5544. As purchased, this rod is not polished and you could polish it with fine wet and dry emery paper if you so wish.

You can also use 100% silicon thick wall tubing, or red rubber chemical corks of the right size as recommended by Barry Hilton. I have tried a mixed set of the above in one cell to see which would fail first. I discovered that after 6 months both the silicon tubing and the rubber corks lost some elasticity and although the cylinders had not slipped, in a four wheel drive, rough terrain application, there would have been some problems. A neutral and superior spacer can be machined from Teflon rod and it works very well.

B3. Cell to motor tube.

This one is nice and quick. I have stuck to 1 inch ( 24 mm. ) outer diameter aluminium tube, with a wall thickness of 1/16 of an inch, ( about 1.6 mm. ) so the inside diameter is 20 mm. It is readily obtainable, reasonably easy to bend, electrically conductive and works well as a guide for Orgone. I standardise on 1 inch ( 25 mm. ) outer tube diameter for all the cells that I make and supply and thus the cells are interchangeable for fault finding and performance checking. I would strongly suggest that the bigger groups involved in cell design, should agree to a set of standards for cell design that are mutually agreed to world wide. This would allow mass production of cells with the related advantage of cost cutting and uniformity. Other diameter of tubes and materials can be used, there is no rigid rule. If you find something that works for you and it is readily obtainable and cheap, please let me know so that I can add it as an update to this manual. For example, I have used normal clear plastic water tubing, covered it with aluminium foil and then I have heat shrunk a plastic sleeve over the lot to give it strength. Not as good as solid aluminium, but easy to form and easy to make when you have no access to solid aluminium tube.

So there you have it for the materials. Low component count, therefore simple and close to Nature.

C. Machining operations.

Machining operations can be broken down into;

C1. Cutting operations.

This is one of the important steps in cell construction. As previously stated, any high speed cutting at the steel supplier's premises will probably involve the creation of heat. Any colour change due to heat in the cutting operation must be removed from the final length of the component. That is why I suggested the oversize margin in B1. If the tube is cut with a liquid cooled bimetallic blade or at low feed speeds with a metal cutting disk, you will not see any colour change whatsoever! When I cut my tubing at home, I simply use a 4 inch ( 100 mm. ) angle grinder in a cutting attachment and slowly rotate the tube as I cut the steel. There is no colour change and I can cut my tubes so close to the finished size that the lathe work is only a truing operation. As mentioned above, I true the tubes and match for length at slow speed in the lathe. The final matching of the cylinders is done by holding a metal ruler across the tops of two cylinders. You should see no light under any of the four contact spots. I match all my cylinders starting at the 1 inch one and work outwards.

C2. Polishing.

This is not a difficult operation. I use about 400 grade emery paper and whilst the part is rotating in the lathe, I polish the internal and external tube surfaces. Do not polish to leave cross hatch marks, ie. do not move your emery paper laterally back wards and forwards at speed. Make you lateral traverses slowly. That's it, no mysterious techniques.

C3. Welding.

I have my parts either Tig, Mig or plain old oxy acetylene welded with 316L rod or wire. Again no mysterious techniques, just a good welder.

C4. Insulators and spacers.

I turn my chosen spacer material on the lathe. I cut off my ebonite rod or Teflon to ½ inch ( 12 mm. ) lengths on the lathe. Ditto, no mysteries.

As you can see, there is no laser cutting or matching to angstrom units for part dimensions. Nor is there any submerged welding by highly qualified aircraft experts. All operation can be performed by a handyman or the nearest machine shop.

C5. Press fit operations.

I sometimes press fit components. At all times, as a result of the press fit process, I make sure that I have no change in internal dimension and the press fit is exactly that, ie. not a finger push fit. I clean and " pickle " the surface prior to the press fit operation for about 15 minutes and then wash off the chemicals in juvenile water. On the external side of the press fit, I deposit a ring of 24 hour Araldite to guard against any weepage of electrolyte. The adhesive you, use whatever it is, must not be accessible to the internal working of the cell, otherwise it will deposit itself all over the cylinders and insulators and diminish or " kill " cell operation.

D. Options.

The following options are possible;

D1. Construction of a charging vat.

The options are related to the cone diameters As explained in A1, I make the small charging vats; Joe, Barry and others make the large ones that use 10 inch ( 250 mm. ) cones. There are variations in the quantity of cones, as used by Joe, and this is covered in detail in Barry's book. I prefer to use 8 cones, 1 reflector, 1 positive, 2 negative and 4 " spacers ". There are also variations in the support method of the cones. I prefer the central Nylon rod. Others prefer spacers between all the cones around the periphery of adjacent cones and an agricultural pipe up the middle of the cones ( see Barry's book).

As mentioned previously, unless you are after a vast quantity of charged water or have scum problems, you will not need it.

D2. Construction of 4 cylinder test cell.

You can have the outer container made from glass or acrylic ( Perspex ), but in all cases, make sure it is clear. The other variation is in the method of extracting the negative, either with a stainless steel strap out the top, or with a stainless steel bolt out the bottom. Again, it is up to you. The bolt out the bottom is a pain, as the container now has to be supported by a suitable stand. Also, the bolt method introduces further costs. For a test cell, it is not mandatory to use a bolt entry from the bottom of the cell.

D3. Construction of 4 cylinder car cell.

See notes for 5 cylinder car cell.

D4. Construction of 5 cylinder test cell.

See notes for 4 cylinder test cell.

D5. Construction of 5 cylinder car cell.

The variations are quite numerous. The obvious ones are the composition of the spacers and insulators. This I have covered and will not repeat.

We have a choice in the way that we " join " the outer cylinder with the cones or domes or plates .

We have a choice in the support mechanism for the inner cylinders.

We have a choice in the geometric shape of our top and bottom " covers ".

We have a choice in the way that we attach the ½ inch bolt to the 1 inch tube.

We have a choice in the outlet fitting type.

E. Assembly.

E1. Charging vat.

There are several versions of the charging vat. There is a thorough coverage by Barry Hilton in his book. I suggest that the reader has a look and then they can decide which version they want to build.

Either way, apart from size and some minor details, the vats are very similar. The one that I am about to describe is my version and matches the previous part list. I will keep this section brief, on the assumption that you have seen Barry's book. As you can see, the photos make the construction quite clear.

E1a. I will mention a few pointers that may be not clear from the photographs:

* Remove the metal mandrel head out of the pop rivets as the remanent head is not stainless steel and will be magnetic and will rust.

* The stainless steel strap from the two negative cones must not be cut, and thus is one continuous length ( as described in Barry's book ).

* The function of the O rings, is to allow the gasses liberated by electrolysis to pass via the irregularly cut central holes of the cones. You place one O-ring on each side of the Nylon spacers. So the order would be, one cone, one O-ring, one Nylon spacer, one O-ring and finally the next cone and so on with the next O-ring, etc. until you complete the cone stack.

As you can see, I have left this section very brief on the assumption that most readers will not build a charging vat, or if they did, there is sufficient information above if you study the photos.

E2. 4 cylinder test cell.

I will not cover this test cell, as it is the same as the 5 cylinder test cell, minus one cylinder.

E3 4 cylinder car cell.

I will not cover this car cell, as it is the same as the 5 cylinder car cell, minus one cylinder.

I have however, provided ample photographic views of the construction.

E4. 5 cylinder test cell.

E4a. The 5 cylinder test cell is similar to the 5 cylinder car cell as described in E5 below. When you complete you 5 cylinder sub-assembly as per E5c, palace it to one side and proceed with next step.

E4b. Have somebody drill the appropriate size hole in the bottom of the jar to match the stepped washer as per E5e. I drill my own hole in the glass, using the right size outer diameter copper tube. I attach this copper tube in a slowly rotating vertical drill and lubricate the copper cutting edge with a mixture of kerosene and fine valve grinding compound. The grinding compound can be obtained from any motor accessory shop. Go nice and easy, and frequently add new cutting paste. Haste means a broken jar, so do not say I did not warn you. When finished, dispose of the ground glass, paste, etc. in a safe way.

E4c. Assemble cylinder sub-assembly to glass jar as per car cell assembly. Do not over-tighten the nut! Fill with juvenile water, test for leaks, etc.

E5. 5 cylinder car cell.

E5a. Rather than covering the construction of Mark 1, Mark 2, mark 3, etc. types of cell, I will cover the construction of a 5 cylinder that I consider as the " best " of the simple type of Orgone accumulators that we have called the Joe cell. I cannot see any value in covering the other variants of simple type of 5 cylinder cells, only to tell you at the end to build the one I am about to describe.

E5b. Make sure that you hands are not oily and re-check that all cylinders are clean. Obtain a kitchen cutting board or a piece of MDF or chip-board or any smooth and level surface will do. We will assemble the cell upside down on this flat surface, as this will ensure that the finished cell will be flat across the tops of the cylinders, ie. the side that is on the flat surface ( as this is the critical area! ). As your cylinders will not be perfectly identical in length, this method will also place the irregularities towards the bottom of the cell, where it is not as important.

* The first step is to prepare our ½ bolt, so that the hexagon head is a tight press fit into one end of the 1 inch cylinder. A minimum amount is ground or turned to off from the hexagon head so that the bolt head is a tight interference fit inside the tube. I have seen bolts with unaltered heads hammered into the pipe. Depending on the bolt, this caused the tube to assume a hexagonal appearance where the bolt head was forced into the tube. It still works okay, but it is not aesthetically pleasing. If you perform the task correctly, there will be a minimum of distortion to the outside of the tube and the water will be able to flow easily in and out the tube via the hexagonal flats of the bolt head, as they are not touching the inside walls of the tube.

* The head of the bolt is pressed into the tube until the bottom of the head is in the tube by ¼ of an inch or 6 mm. See diagram and picture. If you look through the tube you must see adequate clearance for water flow. On the bolts I use, when I finish the lathe work, all the hexagon shape is removed and I have to grind 3 slots in the head with my angle grinder to provide channels for water flow. When you roll the 1 inch tube on a flat surface the bolt shaft should roll with no wobble. This verifies that you have pressed the bolt head squarely into the tube. It is easy to drive some bolts into the tube and not keep it concentric-centric with the tube. The end result is that the whole inner cylinder assembly will be askew and interfere with the proper seeding of the cell.

E5c. Now take your 1 inch tube and place it upright on your assembly board, with ( obviously ) the bolt toward your face. Remember that the flat board end of the tube will finish up as the top of the inner cylinder assembly. Take you 2 inch tube, slip it over the 1 inch tube and position it so that there is an equal gap between the 2 inch and the 1 inch tube. As you build up your inner cylinder assembly you will repeat this step with you 3 inch and 4 inch tubes.

* Take 3 of you chosen ½ inch (12 mm. ) long insulating spacers and force them into the gap between the tubes at 120 degree spacing. Push your insulating spacers into the tube until they are below the tube edge by ¼ of an inch ( 6 mm. ). As I use ½ inch ebonite spacers, I have to file a flat to reduce the overall diameter of the ebonite before I press fit them into the tube. I place this longitudinal flat towards the convex or outer cylinder surface for best friction fit. If you use Teflon or Nylon rod, you will have to machine this tolerance factor into you rod diameter before you cut it up into you ½ inch spacers. Naturally, this problem does not exist with rubber hose or any other malleable material. You will find that if you use a malleable material, with time, your cylinders will sag and you will lose your critical level top line-up from inner cylinder to inner cylinder. In that case, I would suggest that you make a supporting comb assembly under the cylinders to support them. I have made these out of Perspex ( acrylic ) and they resemble a comb with the teeth facing upwards. The cylinders fit in the roots of these teeth, with the teeth spacing being the gap between adjacent cylinders. Please be wary of the type and quantity of acrylic that you use. Several experimenters have found that some grades of acrylic can short circuit the cylinders if used for separators or support medium. Avoid acrylic and similar materials until you become more proficient with cell characteristics.

* You now reverse your 1 inch tube and do the above, for the top 3 insulators. As the bolt body is obviously in you way when you try to place the tube on your flat surface, you will have to drill a ½ inch hole in your assembly board. I hope that it is not your wife's or girlfriends chopping board or bread board! So now the finished product is a 2 inch cylinder supported by 3 top and 3 bottom spacers with a dead flat relative top surface.

* The above procedure is repeated for your 2 inch to 3 inch tubes, and your 3 inch to 4 inch tubes. I find that for the 3 inch to 4 inch tubes, it is better to use 4 insulators at each end for a total of 8 instead of 6 inter tube spacers. The reason is that the larger diameter of the 4 inch tube now allows considerable flexure and 3 insulators at each end are not enough for a firm fit.

* There is no magic in the alignment of inter tube insulator line-up. Some perfectionists insist in having 3 radial lines ( as in three spokes of a bicycle wheel ), radiating out from the center, with 120 degree spacing. I have not found this critical. You now have a inner tube cylinder sub-assembly completed. The last step is to put the assembly back on your flat surface with the eventual working top down, and the bolt pointing up towards you. Now with a wooden or rubber mallet, gently tap all the cylinder edges, as to force the eventual top surface to be perfectly flat. Great, put this sub assembly to one side and let's move on.

E5d. To assemble the outer case of the cell, the following welding and machining operations are required:

* Have your top cone to compression fitting welded together. I would suggest that your compression fitting is designed for 1 inch ( 24 mm. ) outer diameter tube. This way, all club members or larger groups will be able to interchange cells as a help with car conversions. After the above welding, remove any " dags " that resulted from the welding operation. Grind and polish this junction, so that the internal transition from cone to outlet fitting is as smooth as you can achieve, without ridiculous fastidiousness. Check that the joint is water tight.

* Press fit your modified thread to one end of the 5 inch cylinder, making sure that the 5 inch cylinder protrudes slightly below this male thread, so there is metal to metal contact with the lower cap when it is assembled and the 5 inch nut is done up . This step must also allow reasonable compression of the O-ring. See pictures.

* Have the cone welded to the other end of the 5 inch cylinder. As in the step above make sure that the transition from cone to outer cylinder is smooth on the inside. Check that the joint is water tight.

* At this stage, have you outer assembly heat treated to remove the paramagnetism from the welding operation. I do not do this, I use the unit as it ends up after welding and the cell works okay, but to guarantee the success of your cell, I would strongly recommend the heat treatment step. When the unit come back from the heat treatment people, lightly repolish the outside and inside. Also, at this stage, run a bead of 24 hour Araldite, or similar, over the outside only junction of the pressed thread ring and the 5 inch cylinder. This will ensure that you will not have any slight electrolyte weepage from the press fit. This completes the outer case construction. Place it next to you completed inner cylinder assembly and lets move on.

E5e. All that is left to do is to complete the lower cap and ½ inch bolt support system. In the middle of the lower cap, you will need a hole that is ½ inch ( 12 mm. ) greater in diameter than the shaft diameter of the bolt. So for example, if your bolt shaft was ½ inch diameter, you would drill a 1 inch hole in the lower cap plate. This allows a ¼ inch ( 6 mm.) gap that will be filled up by your inner insulating washer.

* You now require a 1 inch ( 25 mm. ) length of thin wall tubing that you push onto the bolt until it touches the lower edge of the bolt head. Make sure that the outer diameter of this sleeve tube is not so large that it blocks the water flow in and out of the 1 inch cylinder.

* The next step is to make 2 washers from Nylon, Teflon, etc. The inner washer will be stepped ( see photo ). The smaller diameter step will have a 1 inch outer diameter and deep enough to be nearly as thick as the cap material thickness. The outer diameter of this stepped washer is not critical, so about 1.5 inches will do .The thickness of this larger diameter matches the distance that the bolt is inserted inside the 1 inch tube. So, ¼ inch ( 6 mm. ) is required in our example. This will result in the inner cylinder assembly being 1 inch above the lower cap. This insulator has a central hole drilled through it to exactly match the shaft diameter of the chosen bolt. A tight fit here will minimise and water loss down the bolt and thus out of the cell. The insulator that is on the bolt on the outside of the lower cap is easier to make. Make it about ¼ inch ( 6 mm. ) thick and 1.5 inches wide. The hole in the center is again made to match the shaft diameter of the bolt.

E5f. Now assemble the inner cylinder assembly to the lower cap plate. With clean hands, place the inner cylinder assembly top down, bolt up, on your flat plate. If not already done, slip your 1 inch long spacer sleeve onto the bolt. Next apply Vaseline ( petroleum jelly ), liberally all over the bolt shaft and inner washer. Place the inner washer onto the bolt so that the smaller diameter step is facing you and liberally cover this step with more Vaseline. Now place the lower cap onto the bolt the right way round, so that the 1 inch step of the inner insulator fits into the 1 inch hole of the lower cap. Again liberally apply Vaseline on the outer insulator and slip this over the bolt. Next, put you washer, electrical lug and nut on the bolt ( see photo ). Tighten the nut more than hand tight but not excessively. Check your handiwork, make sure you remove excess Vaseline also ensuring you do not get any on the cylinders or over the inside of the cap plate.

E5g. Take you outer casing, Vaseline the O-ring and sit it in the groove of the 5 inch male thread. Lower your completed inner assembly and make sure that the lower cap plate fits snugly into the 5 inch outer tube, without disturbing the O-ring. Take your 5 inch nut and screw it on the thread. Use reasonable force to do the nut up.

E5h. Fill the cell up right to the top with juvenile water and leave it overnight in an area or surface where you will be able to see any leaks. If there were no leaks, pour out the water and give yourself a pat on the back. Why? Because you are finished. You can now insert fresh juvenile water to the correct level and start your charging operations. Good going!

Chapter 7


" Nature is the embodiment of the simplest conceivable mathematics. "

Albert Einstein.

To calculate the height of the cylinders for maximum efficiency, proceed as follows:

1. As covered in greater detail in the chapter on " Charging the water ", make sure that you have your chosen test current flowing through the cell. I normally adjust my electrolyte to obtain a repeatable current flow of 1 Ampere with 12 Volts across the cell.

2. Place a known voltage across the innermost cylinder and the outermost cylinder. For car use, I suggest 12 Volts from a car battery or equivalent. The negative goes to the inside bottom of the innermost cylinder, ( normally 1" diameter ), and the positive goes to the outside top of the outermost cylinder, ( normally 4" or 5" diameter ). Measure this voltage accurately!

3. Now leave one lead of the voltmeter on the inner cylinder, and with the other lead, find the half voltage point radially from the inner cylinder to a point in the water. Do your best to memorise this point. Now place one lead of the meter on the outer cylinder and with the other lead, find the half voltage point radially towards the inner cylinder. Note this point. It will be close to the first measured point, but not necessarily the same point! If there is a difference halve the difference and record.

4. Measure diametrically the distance from the centre of the innermost cylinder to the half voltage point as measured plus the difference, if any. Double this measurement! This is the diameter of the " seed " circumference. For example on a 4,3,2,1 cylinder cell, the total diameter was 2.24" and for a 5,4,3,2,1 cylinder cell, the total distance was 2.83"

5. By using the natural logarithm of the height of the cylinder, we can interpolate and work out our optimum cylinder heights. The formula is: h = e to the power of d ( h = height of cylinder, e = 2.718281...,d = seed diameter ). All measurements must be in inches. I have worked out some standard size values for you. You can easily work out your value from the following table.

Cylinder Seed Cylinder Seed

height diameter height diameter

6" 1.79" 13" 2.56"

6.5" 1.87" 13.5" 2.60"

7" 1.95" 14" 2.64"

7.5" 2.01" 14.5" 2.67"

8" 2.08" 15" 2.71"

8.5" 2.14" 15.5" 2.74"

9" 2.20" 16" 2.77"

9.5" 2.25" 16.5" 2.80"

10" 2.30" 17" 2.83"

10.5" 2.35" 17.5" 2.86"

11" 2.40" 18" 2.89"

11.5" 2.44" 18.5" 2.92"

12" 2.48" 19" 2.94"

12.5" 2.53" 19.5" 2.97"

20" 3.00"

6. So in 4. above, we would use inner cylinders of about 9.4" for the 4 cylinder cell and we would use 17" cylinders for the 5 cylinder cell. If this height is too long for you, you can use the next submultiple for the longer cylinders, ie. 8.5" for the 17" cylinders, etc. There is a corresponding loss in " breeding " output, but as long as your cell is not too leaky and you are not travelling in a strip of low level Orgone you should get away with it.

7. At no stage should you use inner cylinders of a length of less than 7" of cylinder height for the most common cubic capacity car engines. Of course, for test cells, you will be able to get away with lower surface area cylinders. I use 5 inch ( 125 mm. ) high cylinders in my test cell, as this allows me to use less water during experiments.

Final note on the above. Many many cells have been built without going to, or knowing about, the above table and they all work to a degree, well enough to start the car. As a simple reliable rule that works, use 7 inch long inner cylinders and a 9 inch long outer 

Chapter 8


" Water is a living substance! "

Viktor Schauberger.

As seen on the chapter on Orgone polarity, we have the choice of negative Orgone, positive Orgone or a combination of both. Combined polarity Orgone cells are more suited for use in real Orgone motors and " anti-gravity devices " as used by the people in the know, but the funds, time and permission are out of the realm of the normal back yard experimenter. So as far as these notes are concerned, scratch that option out. A positive cell would require alkalies, different insulators, 316S stainless steel and water with a natural pH of 7 or more. For many reasons, I did not choose to go in that direction.

As I will explain shortly, I choose to make only negative cells, and these notes are based on the construction of negative cells. Do not read negative as not as good as positive. They perform the identical functions, all that we are doing is sitting on the left side of a see-saw and not the right side.

What do I mean by negative or positive cells? Simply stated, a negative cell is based on acidic water and related materials and a positive cell is based on alkaline water and related materials.

Water type

As discovered by many experimenters and holy people, Orgone, or the life force, loves or has a great affinity for water. Just as well, or we and the rest of the planet's " living " creations would not be here. So the first step in our quest to build an accumulator is to provide for whatever we are trying to accumulate, a container or area where we can accomplish this task. Okay, I far as I am concerned, we are trying to accumulate Orgone energy, thus the aim of the game for me, is to provide the most attractive and pleasant area to allow this energy to gather and then I concentrate, focus and utilise the energy before finally releasing it back to where it came from. If we assume for the moment that Orgone will be accumulated by water, the next question is obvious, what type of water, in what type of container, how large? etc.

Here experimenters have gone in all directions and a huge mythology from armchair experts has developed to show the way to the " blind ". Let me state from the start that Reich and others have spent their lives telling us how and what to do. I have compiled a great deal of scientific information, and as such, I am standing on many great shoulders that have passed before me to give me a better view of the problem, and I claim no credit. The only credit I claim is that I have got up from my backside and have actually done something with this information. So by doing, now I know, like you will, if you ever make a cell.

So, as I am dealing with living energies, it makes absolute sense to me to accumulate these energies in a medium of their choice, ie. in living water! All water is not just plain old water, nor are all pure waters the same, or pure. Unfortunately, the experimenter grasps on the word " pure " and immediately images of " pure " water from the local supermarket or distilled or rain water or his favourite filtered tap water flashes into his head. No, No, No! I am deliberately belabouring this point as it is critical in the construction of easy seeding, breeding and low leakage cells. Get your water right or stop reading here and use these notes to light fires.

Okay you say, let's move on, what is this magic water? Pure water means that good old mankind did not get a chance to " help " the water to make it better with additives, or the water has not lain around in metal or cement pipes until we want to use it, nor has it been ripped apart by turbines and pumps, nor has it lain stagnant and motionless in the Sun, nor has it flowed next to roads to have all the car combustion heavy metals fall into it, nor has it flowed underneath high tension power lines, nor has it had all the guttering from thousands of houses dump their toxins into it, nor has it had thousands of roads and streets drop its pollutants and waste into it. I mean, you must be getting the drift by now. The water you drink out of your tap is dead, distilled water is dead, tank water from roofs, etc. may be dead and toxic, water you buy from the supermarket is dead, and river and creek water that you may get downstream after it passes through towns and cities is also useless.

I use what I call juvenile or virgin water. By that I mean water that I get at the start of rivers or creeks. Juvenile water is like a child looking out for new experiences as it leaps, rolls, swirls and runs in shady, rocky and self selected pathways. It is the life blood of Mother Earth and a living thing. It has the ability to store these " pleasant " memories, or life-beneficial frequencies. I do not have to tell any reader how cold and how invigorating a mountain stream is. That is the right water! We do not want the water after it has experienced the memories and thus the frequencies from mankind's help, unless we can remove these detrimental memories.

I have my favourite water catchment area well outside Melbourne, Australia, where all the above conditions are met. There are no roads, powerlines, dams, pipes or any man made intrusions, the water flows how and where it wants to in natural, twisty downhill paths it has created, the whole area is green all year round and you can feel the vitality and Nature at work. Absolutely beautiful! No wonder that village people in mountain areas live so long.

From " Living Water ", a book by Olof Alexandersson:

"...Schauberger did not approve of pumped sub-surface water as drinking water. This water forced artificially from the depth was " immature " - it had not yet passed through the whole of its natural cycle, and therefore in the long term would be injurious to man, animals, and even plants. Only the water that runs out from the soil by itself in the form of springs and streams is suitable as drinking water....Water flowing from a natural source, particularly a mountain spring, acts in quite a different way. Schauberger found that if one drank a litre of this water - thus presumably increasing one's weight by approximately a kilo, - the net increase in weight was in fact only 300-400g. The remaining water must have been converted directly into energy to the body, thereby explaining the enormously enlivening quality that this water gives..."

Again, the above shows the difference in the energy content of different waters. If we relate this energy content to negative entropy that the Orgone energy possesses, we can readily see how it thus combats positive entropy or death that all bodies strive for. Put in another way we live, and so does the Joe cell as a result of taking in Orgone energy in many forms, including water. Also, I would like to distinguish between Schauberger's term " immature " and my term " juvenile ". Juvenile water is mature water before it is influenced by the bad memories ( frequencies ) that good-old-mankind has provided. Immature water is water that has not recorded the essential frequencies that Mother Nature provides. As such immature water is not what you should strive for, if you want quick seeding and breeding of your cells.


The water I use in its natural state has a pH of 6.5. That means it is slightly acidic and perfect for the negative cells that I make. I bring this water home making sure that I protect it from excessive sloshing and the heat of the sunlight whilst in the car. At home, I store it in 20 litre Pyrex bottles. Do not store it in plastic containers even if the container is marked " suitable for water ". Earthenware or wood containers would also be very suitable.

So the first thing you need when you find your own magic spot is some 0-14 Litmus paper. This is quite cheap and you can get a small quantity from your nearest swimming pool supplier. There is no use in buying a $1000.00 pH meter that is accurate to zillions of decimal places. All you want to know is, if the water is alkaline or acid.

The water will be either:

A. Neutral, ie. pH is approximately 7. In this case the ion level is too low for electrolysis and you

will have to add electrolyte. ( See Perfect Science note below ).

B. Acid, ie. pH varies from 7 down to 1. As this is what we require for a negative cell, grab some

and bring it home.

C. Alkaline, ie. pH varies from 7 to 14. You may make a positive cell with this, as many people

do. I personally am not interested, and therefore, I do not cover a positive cell construction in

these notes.

Be wary of any juvenile water with a pH of 5 or less, as the natural water acid level is getting too high due to pollutants or a high concentration of minerals. I personally have not used such water and can offer no guidance.

In the section on cell construction, I cover the stages required to bring this water to the right " working strength ".

Perfect Science water

I will give you a brief summary of a talk by Drunvalo Melchezidek, regarding very wonderful news. The full talk can be found on ( http://www.transformacomm.com/ )

" ... Some Sufi masters in Turkey have presented to the world with a water that appears to be alive. This water has different effects on different things. It seems to have an optimal effect on whatever it touches.

... This water is called super-ionised water. A company out of Istanbul Turkey, has been started by Ihan Doyuk, and is called Perfect Science. A 48 million-dollar plant has been built in Turkey to produce 100,000 tons of this water a day.

... The only difference is in the number of electrons that are in the outer orbit. ... it has three extra electrons in the outer orbit.... all the scientists and physicists and the chemists of the world have been studying this for the past few years and have been keeping it secret. Not one of them, ... can explain how it is happening. They don't know! ... it appears as though ... it is alive and it knows what it's doing!

... But if you put the wires in super-ionised water, the light bulb comes on. No one has seen that before. That is impossible by everything that we know. And there is a flow of electrical energy through the water, that they are describing as liquid electrons. "

What is so exciting about the above extract is that the water is conductive with a pH of 7! This is exactly what the Joe cell experimenter needs for the electrolysis of the Joe cell without electrolyte. The end result is no more deposits, large ion flow, lower cell maintenance and a far superior cell as an Orgone accumulator. A recent quote from Michel Foisy ( michel.foisy@transformacomm.com ), is USD$27.00 for one US gallon and USD$8.50 for air mail shipping. Worth a thought. I will give at later date, a progress result on the batch that I am testing.


A typical and very suitable mixture is described in United States Patent 5,231,954 by Gene. B. Stowe under the production of a hydrogen/oxygen cell.

For people without Internet I will briefly quote the relevant section;

"...an electrolyte solution can be made by mixing small quantities of phosphoric acid ( food grade ), sodium perborate ( to supply extra oxygen), and acetanilide as a stabiliser, in deionised water or distilled water. The quantities of these chemicals may be varied between rather wide ranges, the object being to provide reasonable flow of current between the two electrodes. "

He goes on ( in section 6, 65 onwards ), to explain a typical method of making this mixture. I would suggest that if you made the above, you used juvenile water for dilution, and that you leave out the stabiliser as it is expensive and not essential for our needs. The end mixture works extremely well and you will only have to add a couple of spoonful's of Gojuice to achieve 1 Amp of current flow at 12 Volts in you car or test cell.

General notes

It should now be self explanatory that constructors that use water without knowing the pH and then mix it with various chemistry, eg. " caustic soda ", an alkaline that is popular ( probably because every house has some ) and dubious insulator materials, are doomed to failure. Caustics just loves to chew at insulators. Believe me, stay with mild acids.

You may use vinegar or acetic acid that you use for cleaning the stainless steel and kill two birds with one stone. I personally have made my own mix that I call " Gojuice " as explained above. Acetic acid or vinegar is fine, but, please note that if you use vinegar, as the quantity of vinegar added to the cell is quite large, ( by volume ) you will have to be careful that the vinegar was made with the " right " water. This would be highly unlikely, so it should be used as a last resort. With acetic acid make sure that it is 90% acetic acid and if you obtain it from a photography chemical supplier, make sure that there is no stabiliser or indicator included in the mixture. It is because of the dubious nature of the water that is used for the vinegar and acetic products that I have taken the far more expensive path of using Gojuice.

In closing let me say, that it would be absolutely stupid to get naturally acidic water then electrolyse it with an alkaline and then complain that you are getting sludge formations and the cell does not work.

 cylinder for a 4 cylinder cell. Use 8 inch long inner cylinders and a 10 inch long outer cylinder for a 5 cylinder cell.

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