Everything TidalForce

Everything you want to know about the TidalForce bicycle.

Interesting excerpts from numerous posts over the years...



Handlebar Mounted Controller


It's VERY EASY to BURN OUT your MOTOR'S LOGIC circuit when installing a jumper on the Battery connecter in the Controller.  Never touch the bare controller pins with any power connected.


From Bill Von: 

The battery buttons seem to go to the same pins that the keyswitches go to.  This is also odd.  When the keyswitch is in the 'off' position, it appears to send 'on' signals to BOTH battery packs.  Since both battery packs sense both buttons, this can work (i.e. battery logic says 'if both buttons are pressed system is off') but it's an odd way to do things.

B1 battery connector

(fits Digikey part number H2006-ND 2mm header)

Description            Pin  Pin  Description
LED anode               1    2   LED D5
LED D4                  3    4   LED D3
LED D2                  5    6   LED D1
Keyswitch2+batt2 button 7    8   Keyswitch2+batt2 button
Keyswitch1+batt1 button 9   10   Keyswitch1+batt1 button
GND                    11   12   Common with pin 12 on B2 conn
Pin 12 on motor conn (N/C)13  14 Pin 12 on motor conn


B2 connector is same except:

pins 7/8 and 9/10 are reversed.

Using a non WaveCrest battery Jumper (extreme caution advised when installing)

Excerpts from  Richard Papa posts and JimDee corrections and the Steve picture is worth 1000 words.

Originally posted in this thread:


The photo shows a properly installed official "non WaveCrest" battery jumper.  Note the pins jumped are the second pair of pins counting from the A battery connector aka pins 11 and 12 of the 14 pin connector counting from the top.

This jumper allows use of a non WaveCrest battery, typically as an additional B battery, but alternatively as any battery that doesn't have the standard WaveCrest Data connecter going to the handlebar mounted dashboard controller.   Reportedly the key and "real" WaveCrest batteries will still function the same for WaveCrest batteries (like the hub).  However the Regen will always be active so be careful not to use braking regen when your battery is over 80% (5 LEDs) charged or you could damage your batteries.  The key will have no effect on non-WC batteries (motor will come on as soon as they're connected).

Some members have damaged their motors requiring costly repairs while connecting battery connectors and jumpers to the controller with the battery power leads connected so ALWAYS DISCONNECT THE BATTERY POWER LEADS before attempting any modifications in the dashboard, or even opening it up.


Motor connector

Description Pin Pin Description
             1  2
 GND         3  4    SDA
 SCL         5  6
 LBrake      7  8   RBrake
 Pwr to dash 9  10 Throttle p3
            11  12 Throttle p4 (also p14 batteries - maybe shield?)

Note the SDA and SCL I2C signals.  Also note the power input.  Not
sure what that is other than it's more than 5 volts (there's a 5 volt LDO
on the dash.)


Anderson Powerpole Connectors

Excellent "How To" article on Anderson connectors including fantastic photos and technical details from Fly RC magazine:



Anderson 45Amp

Our early version bikes come with the 45 Amp Anderson crimped on.  Photo of the rear hub connections with one Anderson insert removed.


From Joe:
Following Doug Canfield's directions I used a small straight screwdriver to pop the angled end tip of the metal connector off the plastic lip it sits on.  After that a firm tight gripped pull removes the wire and crimped anderson part from the cover.

From Bob McRee:

The 15, 30, and 45A PowerPole connectors all use the same housing.  Only the contact itself is different. the lower current terminals use a cylindrical crimp-on contact to the wire, and the 45A have "ears" that crimp over the wire. i like to use the 45A contacts and crimp the
ears with pliers then solder, since i am too cheap to buy a crimping tool. the 15 and 30A contacts can also be soldered. IMO there is no good reason not to use the 45A contacts, since they are not much more expensive.


Another good resource for Anderson products, including simple 4 way splitters/combiners and extensions:


Excerpts from Waytek, Inc. catalog:

Sprays and lubricants for connectors recommended by members:

DeoxIT Power Booster and ProGold Connector Enhancer sprays from Caig Laboratories (available at Radio Shack).


Delphi Packard power connector

The official Delphi Packard (pdf) document for the Metri-Pack 480 that's used in our bikes.  (Thank you Doug Canfield for this correction!)


Here's another link to what should be the same file (in case one link brakes):



Charger connector

The "EN3 Mini Weathertight" cord connectors with caps are made by Switchcraft (part EN3C5MC or EN3C5MS) and can be purchased at EVtech and others (http://www.mouser.com/switchcraft). 


Switchcraft Pins from TF Battery Charger


From aka bMF: 

The connector on my Hi-Power grey charger is a solder type so I'm assuming
the one on the battery is also.  This means you can't replace just the pin &
need to replace the entire connector.  However, there's nothing to say WCL
utilized either type at various times throughout its production run.
Likewise either can be used for replacement & will mate properly.

The solder type is awkward to fasten the wires to because of the close
spacing & would need a pretty good touch with an iron to work quick so the
shell don't melt.  The crimp type is easier to install but need a crimper.
Some people I've seen are satisfied using pliers to crimp the pins.  This
works for a while but the wires work their way loose over time.  So an idea
might be to sweat some solder over the crimp.  The benefit is that the heat
is away from the shell & the terminations can then be inserted individually.
Just apply a minimum of solder so it doesn't build up & inhibit insertion of
the pin.  If you make a mistake this way, you just waste the one pin & not
the whole shell.

Pinouts are as follows;

Pin 1 - White/Thermistor * has a raised dot next to the pin to indicate pin 1
Pin 2 - Black/Battery Negative

Pin 3 - Red/Battery Positive  *Measures 54.5 Volts unloaded out of the gray charger.
Pin 4 - N.C.
Pin 5 - N.C.

Note the max charger output to the battery is about 2.6 Amps so any 5 Amp rated connectors will do.

Overdriving the motor

The maximum reported voltage the motor will handle is 47.5 Volts.  Above this it will refuse to start.  At this high voltage the motor is reportedly extremely fast and powerful in Turbo mode on an X version bike. 

Excerpt from Jeff at EVBones (9/13/2007):

...Plugging a high voltage battery pack (over 44v) into a stock TF motor will damage the logic supply first, and probably something downstream....

The TF motors are capable of much more power, though were basically limited by the available battery technology at the time. Raising the rail voltage effected changes in a number of areas within the drive and controller sections. Newer FET's were needed, as well as low ESR rail caps, new HF bypass caps, modification to the current feedback amp, Bias voltage supply, and logic supply. It may require a little more before I'm done.

Repacking the battery hub

The battery hub can be disassembled and the original batteries and Battery Management System (BMS) can be removed.  I don't think anyone has yet to repack the hub with a Lithium product, but this is the goal.  The original battery hub and BMS can only be repacked with genuine high quality Saft NiMH cells by L.E.V.T.


Trusted and knowledgeable suppliers:

EVtech aka Doug Canfield

L.E.V.T. for TidalForce service

Team Hybrid (in the United Kingdom) 

armybikes.com - Montague folders from Team Hybrid 


Other links and sources

Matra (new owners of TidalForce) 




Anderson connectors and discount crimp tools ($50) and advanced Battery analyzers:


Excellent tool for gear ratio, gear inch shifting and resulting speed and cadence calculations:


And our very honorable member Sheldon Brown's information on gears:


Sheldon Brown's site is the best for all bicycle information!