Interesting excerpts from numerous posts over the years...
It's VERY EASY to BURN OUT your MOTOR'S LOGIC circuit when installing a jumper on the Battery connecter in the Controller. Never touch the bare controller pins with any power connected.
From Bill Von:
The battery buttons seem to go to the same pins that the keyswitches go to. This is also odd. When the keyswitch is in the 'off' position, it appears to send 'on' signals to BOTH battery packs. Since both battery packs sense both buttons, this can work (i.e. battery logic says 'if both buttons are pressed system is off') but it's an odd way to do things.
(fits Digikey part number H2006-ND 2mm header)
Description Pin Pin Description
pins 7/8 and 9/10 are reversed.
Excerpts from Richard Papa posts and JimDee corrections and the Steve picture is worth 1000 words.
Originally posted in this thread:
The photo shows a properly installed official "non WaveCrest" battery jumper. Note the pins jumped are the second pair of pins counting from the A battery connector aka pins 11 and 12 of the 14 pin connector counting from the top.
This jumper allows use of a non WaveCrest battery, typically as an additional B battery, but alternatively as any battery that doesn't have the standard WaveCrest Data connecter going to the handlebar mounted dashboard controller. Reportedly the key and "real" WaveCrest batteries will still function the same for WaveCrest batteries (like the hub). However the Regen will always be active so be careful not to use braking regen when your battery is over 80% (5 LEDs) charged or you could damage your batteries. The key will have no effect on non-WC batteries (motor will come on as soon as they're connected).
Some members have damaged their motors requiring costly repairs while connecting battery connectors and jumpers to the controller with the battery power leads connected so ALWAYS DISCONNECT THE BATTERY POWER LEADS before attempting any modifications in the dashboard, or even opening it up.
Description Pin Pin Description
Note the SDA and SCL I2C signals. Also note the power input. Not
Excellent "How To" article on Anderson connectors including fantastic photos and technical details from Fly RC magazine:
Our early version bikes come with the 45 Amp Anderson crimped on. Photo of the rear hub connections with one Anderson insert removed.
From Bob McRee:
The 15, 30, and 45A PowerPole connectors all use the same housing. Only the contact itself is different. the lower current terminals use a cylindrical crimp-on contact to the wire, and the 45A have "ears" that crimp over the wire. i like to use the 45A contacts and crimp the
Another good resource for Anderson products, including simple 4 way splitters/combiners and extensions:
Excerpts from Waytek, Inc. catalog:
Sprays and lubricants for connectors recommended by members:
DeoxIT Power Booster and ProGold Connector Enhancer sprays from Caig Laboratories (available at Radio Shack).
The official Delphi Packard (pdf) document for the Metri-Pack 480 that's used in our bikes. (Thank you Doug Canfield for this correction!)
From aka bMF:
The connector on my Hi-Power grey charger is a solder type so I'm assuming
Pin 3 - Red/Battery Positive *Measures 54.5 Volts unloaded out of the gray charger.
Note the max charger output to the battery is about 2.6 Amps so any 5 Amp rated connectors will do.
The maximum reported voltage the motor will handle is 47.5 Volts. Above this it will refuse to start. At this high voltage the motor is reportedly extremely fast and powerful in Turbo mode on an X version bike.
Excerpt from Jeff at EVBones (9/13/2007):
...Plugging a high voltage battery pack (over 44v) into a stock TF motor will damage the logic supply first, and probably something downstream....
The TF motors are capable of much more power, though were basically limited by the available battery technology at the time. Raising the rail voltage effected changes in a number of areas within the drive and controller sections. Newer FET's were needed, as well as low ESR rail caps, new HF bypass caps, modification to the current feedback amp, Bias voltage supply, and logic supply. It may require a little more before I'm done.
Trusted and knowledgeable suppliers:
Other links and sources
Anderson connectors and discount crimp tools ($50) and advanced Battery analyzers:
Excellent tool for gear ratio, gear inch shifting and resulting speed and cadence calculations:
And our very honorable member Sheldon Brown's information on gears:
Sheldon Brown's site is the best for all bicycle information!