Step 1.Step 2.
Start by inserting the four long screws into the four holes near the center of the backplate. Secure each with a small nut as shown.
Slide the completed PCB on to the extended screws with the buttons near the the two keyholes in the top of the backplate. Then place the four small baffle locators on the screw and secure with four small nuts.Step 3.
Interlock the baffle grid into place with the angled edge against the pcb. The provides a little extra space for the components. I found it simplest to start with the top and bottom vertical pieces and slide all the vertical pieces into place. Then, place a flat surface, such as a book, on top of the baffles and flip the whole assembly over and lift of the backplate and PCB leaving the baffle grid. Now the horizonal pieces can by set into place. Finally set the pcb and backplate on upside down on the baffle grid and flip the entire assembly back over. If you find an easier way, please let me know.
Double check that the baffles are not caught up on the locators in the four corners.Step 4.
Insert four hex screws into the four corners of the backplate. Secure with 20mm standoff. Place a 7"x6" sheet of velum on top of the baffles. and install the faceplate, securing it with the remaining four hex screws.Finally:
Your clock is complete. Plug it in using either the USB-B jack, or the FTDI interface. Either way, ensure that the PWR SEL jumper is in the correct position: on the right two pins for USB-B, on the left two pins for FTDI power.