GOTCHA! Be careful with the baffles, they are fragile.
The parts. You should have:
a black ABS back cover,
a clear acrylic front cover,
a back frame (thin fragile piece in the upper left)
a front frame (on the upper right)
11 long row baffles
2 long borders
14 short column baffles
2 short borders
1 short no-tab baffle.
Remove the paper from baffle pieces only. Leave the paper on the rest of the acrylic pieces until you have to take it off. We will be doing some rotary-tool work and the shavings love to stick to the shiny acrylic.
With a column baffles on the top and bottom, assemble all of the tabbed column baffles left and right of center. Save the center for the no-tab baffle.
Sandwich the assembly between the front and back covers, flip over and drop in the remaining row baffles.
Because of the variance of the acrylic thickness, the slots on the baffle borders can be snug. Start with one boarder and work your way around, trimming the slots that are too small with an hobby knife. This looks like I am about to cur my thumb off, but I am keeping the tip of the blade well inside the slot and using the slot edge as a guard.
Insert six screws into the back cover, and tape them in. You should leave this tape on until you are finally done taking apart and reassembling your clock. Flip on over and place 3 non-conductive washers on each screw.
Place the PCB over the screws and the bottom frame over the PCB (being careful with this fragile part).
There are two places to watch for when fitting the bottom frame:
1. the PWR SEL jumper,
2. the hole between the buttons.
Pry the plastic on the base of the PWR_SEL jumper so that the frame can slide under it. Gingerly work the frame over the middle screw on the bottom. You may need to slide the screw down, position the frame and re-insert the screw. Or you may have to touch up the outside edge with a rotary tool. In the above photo, I was able to work it on with out doing either of those tricks.
Screw the standoff in place.
Place the baffles inside the bottom frame making sure it fits flush all the way around. Then, check the fit of the top frame (still with the paper on).
Please ignore these old Instructions, prior to painted/laser etched faceplates.
Peal the backing from the three custom font faceplate (but not the top frame) pieces and stack them so that they are perfectly aligned. Trim along the crop lines. If you don't have a large paper cutter (I don't), you can use the top frame as a cutting guide. Align the center holes with the center hole marks, double check that all pages are aligned, then hold firmly and cut.
Re-fit the top frame, add the faceplate font stack, and cover with the top clear acrylic cover (with paper still on). Align the hole markers with the holes on the top cover and top frame.
Use a rotary tool to drill out the bottom center faceplate hole. Insert a screw to hold the same alignment and drill the top center hole. Insert a screw in the top center hole. Drill all remaining holes as nothing should slip with two screws in place.
I used the bit that came standard on my Dremmel. It is about 0.11 inches in diameter. Bill found that 1/8 inch bit worked well.