When all of your frame tracings are complete, you will have the fun part right in front of you: using them.

I first cut each frame tracing out. Then I traced a framing member, such as the floor timber, on a billet. This billet had to be slightly thicker than, and the same kind of wood as the desired result. Next, I cut the framing member out on the scroll saw. I then took the framing member and put it through my thickness sander to get it to the desired dimension.

I went through this process on all of my framing members from the bow to the stern. There are 8 framing members in a frame on my model and 92 frames.  This comes out to 736 framing members! There are actually more if you count the fasion piece, hawse timbers, and filling pieces that go between the fashion piece, hawse, and the first full frames.  

On the keel of my model, I drew in hull sections and positions of floor timbers for reference as they were on my framing plan. If you click on the above picture you may be able to make out some of the lines on the top of the keel. The most obvious thing about this picture is that there are pine moulds cut to hull lines at proper locations along the keel. These were installed by drilling small holes in the keel and the moulds, inserting small nails and gluing them down with cyano acrylate. Then, before the glue dried, it was made sure that they were square to the keel and straight up and down by checking with building squares.

You will also notice that there is pine lath going from one mould to the other. This is to ensure that the outside edge of the frames were controlled so as to be placed in the proper location. This is a version of the Charles Davis method that he describes in his book, "The Built up Ship Model". Besides being a great method, it coincidently ended up approximating the way that the real ship was framed. The Wasa was framed in the Dutch method which entailed planking the vessel before laying in framing members.  Also, on the lath is marked locations of top timbers taken directly from my framing diagram.  

The above picture shows the framing operation in a more advanced state. I was a little suprised that the bevels I drew on my frame tracings ended up working so well when it came to matching the slope on the lath between moulds and frames. Notice how I am pulling the frames that were just glued in close to the lath that controls them with c-clamps. Also, how I used a regular repeating pattern in the woods that I selected for framing. I varied the woods and used a repeating pattern so that the solid parts of the framing would show discernable framing members. The selection of woods that you will use will have to do with the visual objective that you have for your model.

The above picture shows a view towards the stern of the ship looking into the hull before another mould is added. You can see that due to the preliminary work of drawing our framing diagram and frame tracings, our frames need little sanding and sit with a smooth run fore and aft on both the inside and out.

And the completed framing......