Appetizers: 1.) Fried Cheese (Cascius Fritus) “Fry pieces of rich cheese, neither obviously
aged nor obviously fresh, in a pan suited to it, with either butter or fat. When
they are becoming tender, turn them, and take them out immediately.”4 4 Platina,
Book VIII, Chapter 60, p. 385 The original recipe in Platina describes a dish that is more than likely deep-fried; at least we needed that much oil in the pan to keep it from turning into a gooey mess. (See, it’s not just for the Minnesota State Fair anymore, although I don’t have any evidence to suggest that they used cheese curds.) Because we really didn’t feel like doing deep fried cheese the day of the feast, we opted to change the recipe to a baked cheese. Ingredients: 8 oz Feta, sliced ¼ inch thick Milk (use 1 % or higher) Italian seasoned breadcrumbs Flour Combine the flour and the bread crumbs
together. Take the Feta and roll it in the milk and roll it in the flour and
breadcrumb mixture and place it on a greased pan. Turn your oven to 325º and
place the pan in for 5 minutes. Turn once and continue baking for another 5
minutes. Serve immediately, it’s best hot, but it isn’t too bad cold. We served
it with slices of fresh apples; firm nectarines (although out of period) are
fabulous and I would recommend grapes too. Starch: 1.) Almond Blancmange The following recipe is unusual in that it
contains no chicken or fish, but only almonds and rice. This recipe is a
simplified (read modern) rendition of Tallevent’s Striped Blancmange found in
Anne Willan’s “Great Cooks and Their Recipes” p. 20. Platina also talks about coloring blancmange
with saffron, to make it appeared striped. For ease and convenience I chose to
eliminate coloring the layers of the blancmange. Traditionally the blancmange
(white food) uses rice starch or gelatin to stiffen the mixture. Platina
suggests using the shavings of a breastbone from a capon to gel the mixture. A
modern approach is to use cornstarch, which works wonderfully; and a good recipe
can be found in Betty Crocker. An alternative to blanching the almonds,
chopping them up and straining them to make almond milk is to use a small amount
of almond extract (which can be documented) added to your liquid. For the rice
starch we used Cream of Rice cereal. A wonderful solution! Ingredients: 1 cup of Cream of Rice® cereal 4 cups of water ¾ t salt Mix together according to the directions on the
package. Cook until the mixture is stiff. Add 1 t
almond extract and ¾ cup sugar to the
hot mixture. If the mixture is too fluid keep it on the heat until it firms up
(you really can’t over cook this). Take a mold and coat it with butter and
spoon the rice mixture into it. (Pam and other sprays leave a funny taste, don’t
use them!) Let it set up in the fridge for a few hours. When ready to un-mold,
run a knife around the edge and gently turn onto a plate. 2.) Cemolella
Ciciliana (1465
Naples) ( Polenta (Sicilian semolina w/ grana cheese)) Sicilian Semolina Dish (#28)
NICCOLO'S RECIPE 1 c. Semolina ¼ c. grated parmesan or
other hard grating cheese Bring broth or water to boil with a pinch
of salt. Add semolina gradually, stirring constantly. Bring back to simmer and
reduce heat to simmer until done, stirring regularly, and all liquid is
absorbed. Stir in grated cheese. Place on serving dish and sprinkle lightly
with spice powder and more cheese. Serve warm. NOTES: Make a little more than you expect to need. It is a hit. You can use water or vegetable stock, but the recipe will suffer. Be sure to season adequately water or vegetable stock. Other animal stock will work as well, but chicken offers lightness. This will thicken as it cooks. Stop short of the doneness/consistency you desire. The cheese will bind it more. Too much cheese will overwhelm this dish. ORIGINAL TEXT &
TRANSLATION 3.) Gnocchi (14th Italian) (dumpling of cream cheese and flour)
Niccolo's Recipe
Beat cream cheese into a creamy paste (a
stand mixer does this very well). If it is too stiff, then push it through a
ricer, food mill or sieve. Completely mix in the flour using your hands or
paddle on your mixer. Salt and pepper to taste and add in the egg yolks one by
one. Mix well before adding next yolk. Vegetables: 1.) Armored Turnips (Rape Armate) “Martino’s custom of making a special dish of
an ordinary vegetable like turnips was typically Italian; elsewhere in Europe
cooks regarded most root vegetables as food for the poor.”7 7 Anne
Willan’s “Great Cooks and Their Recipes”, p. 32. We used Martino’s recipe for Turnip Cakes taken
directly out of Anne Willan’s “Great Cooks and Their Recipes”, p. 32. This dish
works well with fairly inexpensive cheese and it freezes beautifully! We served
the turnips as a side dish to accompany the pork instead of a dessert, which is
what Ms. Willan suggests it was originally served as. Ingredients: serves 8 2 lbs. large white turnips ½ cup sugar 2 t ground cinnamon 1 t pepper ½ t ground mace ½ t ground cloves 1 ¼ lb. Soft cheese Mix the sugar with the spices and set aside.
Peel the turnips and cut them into slices and place in a pot with salted water
and bring to a boil. Boil for 15-30 minutes or until tender (cook like you would
potatoes). Drain the turnips and place a layer on the
bottom of a greased 8-inch pan. Place slices of the cheese over the turnips and
sprinkle the sugar mixture over that. Continue to layer in this manner until you
run out of stuff, ending with a layer of cheese. Place the pan in a 375° F oven
and bake for 30-35 minutes, until top is browned. You can un-mold this dish,
like a cake, and cut it into wedges when it is chilled. If you are serving it
with meats it is best to serve it warm. 2.) De li Sparaci (15th c. Italian) (asparagus braised and fried with saffron and leek) #20 De li sparaci: Togli li sparaci, e fálli bollire; quando sieno bolliti, ponili a cocere con oglio, cipolle, sale e zaffarano, e spezie trite, o senza. Asparagus with Saffron Of Asparagus. Take the asparagus and boil it; when it is cooked, put it to cook with oil, onions, salt, and saffron, and with ground spices, or without. (Za 8) Niccolo's Recipe 2 1/2 pounds asparagus Clean and trim the asparagus of woody ends. Peel stalks. Bring several quarts salted water to boil. Blanch asparagus until cooked but still slightly crisp. While asparagus is cooking, heat olive oil in large pan and gently cook onion/leek so that it doesn' t brown. Add blanched asparagus and saffron amd cook over medium-low heat for about 5 minutes. Add spices and toss to mix and coat, then cook another 5 minutes covered, or until just done. Zambrini, Francesco, ed. (1968).
Libro della cucina del secolo XIV. Bologna: Forni (originally printed
3.) Fungi
di Monte (15th c.
Italian) (mushrooms blanched and fried with onion and spices) Sauteed Mushrooms with Spices (#21) Mountain Mushrooms. Take mountain mushroom and boil them; and discard the water; the fry them with finely sliced onion, or with white of leek, spices, and salt, and serve. (ZA 24) Niccolo's Recipe 2 pounds mushrooms Clean and trim mushrooms then cut larger
mushroom into half or quarter, depending on size. Blanch mushrooms briefly in
rapidly boiling salted water. Chop finely and soften in oil over medium heat
the onion or leek whites. Raise heat to high, and add dry spices to toast
briefly, then saffron water and mushrooms. Fry on high heat until cooked and
browned, about 15 minutes, stirring/tossing occasionally.. Redon, F., Sabban, F. and Serventi, S.
(1998) (translated by Schneider, Edward). 4.) Fasoli (1465 Naples) (Kidney beans baked with onions and spices) #41 Fasoli Kidney Beans (#41) Niccolo's Recipe 1 pound fields peas, crowder peas, kidney
beans, black-eyed peas, or similar Cook Kidney beans in water or broth until just tender (or use high quality canned). Fry sliced onions in a pan with oil; add saffron and remove from heat immediately. Put the beans in single layer in a shallow casserole; on top of the beans sprinkle with black pepper, cinnamon and then onions/saffron spread evenly on top. For larger quantities, layer beans and onions alternately. Bake at 350F for about 30 minutes. ORIGINAL TEXT &
TRANSLATION Meat: 1.) Pork in Wine Sauce Original recipe: Cormary: Roast Loin of Pork with Red Wine Take finely ground coriander and caraway,
pepper powder, and ground garlic, in red wine; mix all this together and salt
it. Take raw pork loins, skin them, and prick it well with a knife, and lay it
in the sauce. Roast it when you wish, and save what falls from the meat as it
roasts, and boil it in a pot with good broth, and then serve it with the
roast. My Redaction: Take a 5 pound roast and make slits in the skin and insert 10 cloves of garlic. Combine: 2 t ground coriander ½ t caraway seeds (be careful with the caraway as it tends to overpower easily) ½ t celery seed ½ t ground pepper 2 t salt Rub this mixture on the surface of the roast. Place the roast in a Reynolds™ Roasting bag with 1 cup of red wine. Cook in 350º oven for 2-3 hours, or until roast reaches 185º. Remove roast from bag and dump juices into a saucepot. Slice up the roast and put back in the bag and keep it warm. Add enough stock to the wine and juices to make 2 cups and enough breadcrumbs to make the sauce thick (2 T). (You could also use cornstarch dissolved in some water to thicken the sauce, if you are not concerned about using modern ingredients.) Check the sauce and season to taste. Place the slices of pork on top of cooked grains (a pottage, rice, barley, risotto) and serve with the sauce on the side. In period the roast would have been presented to the table whole and then spirited to a side table where a carver would be waiting to slice the meat. Italians are very fond of sauces accompanying their courses, and frequently serve several with one dish. Pasta connoisseurs know that the noodle is only a vehicle for the sauce that accompanies it and not the other way around. Although I would prefer to serve the meat with the sauce already on top, it’s always a good idea to serve it on the side so people can help themselves to as much, or as little as they want; and besides it was done this way in period. 2.) Galine ho Caponi (1465 Naples) Roast chicken with honey/lemon glaze #55 In spito cum suo sapore Piglia, quando le harai cotte bene arosto, cinque amandole mondate he pistale bene cum zucaro fino—ho non havendo zucaro, pone mel—he stempera cum sugo de limoni che sia un pocho spisso; he ponerai sopra le galine, ho vero fa in scutellino el sapore et le galine in piatelli; he manda caldi a tavola. Roast Chickens in their Sauce
(#55) NICCOLO'S RECIPE Whole chicken, cleaned For each chicken: 5 peeled almonds,
finely ground Roast chickens, whole with skins on, at
375F until done and juices run clear, about 45 to 50 minutes. Combine the sauce
ingredients and either pour over the bird (remove skin first, or carve first
then glaze the meat) or serve on the side in bowls as a dipping/glazing sauce.
NOTES: The skin will be crisp if roasted well, and will shield sauce off chicken. Carve the bird and serve sauce on sliced/carved chicken. I would have brined the chickens given time, and maybe stuffed with sliced lemons and almonds during roasting. ORIGINAL TEXT &
TRANSLATION 3a.)
Porco e
sapore bono di granate dolce (1465 Naples) (Roasted pork with Pomegranate sauce)
3 cups Pomegranate syrup/molasses (found
at middle Eastern Stores) Combine Pomegranate syrup, water and wine in large saucepan. Dissolve sugar and cinnamon over medium heat and bring to a boil, stirring occasionally. Let simmer over medium heat for 30 to 45 minutes, stirring frequently to avoid scorching. Serve with roasted meats. NOTE: If you can find pomegranate juice, you may substitute this for the pomegranate syrup and water. You will need to boil longer to reduce and bring to serving consistency. ORIGINAL TEXT &
TRANSLATION Or this variation of Pomegranate Sauce with out the Wine 3b.)
Starne
al mod Cathalano
(1465 Naples) (Roasted partridge
or fowl with pomegranate glaze) NICCOLO'S RECIPE 2 cups Pomegranate syrup/molasses (found
at middle Eastern Stores) NOTE: If you can find pomegranate juice,
you may substitute this for the pomegranate syrup and water. You will need to
boil longer to reduce and bring to serving consistency. ORIGINAL TEXT & TRANSLATION
4.) Torta manfredo bona e vantagiata (14th c. Italian) (torta of phyllo, chicken, pork & onions w/ saffron) #88 Torta manfredo bona e
vantagiata NICCOLO'S RECIPE 18 Sheets (1 box) ready-made strudel or
phyllo-dough In 8” round pan, lay in one piece of phyllo to cover bottom, with excess hanging over sides, and brush with lard, butter or oil. Repeat until you have 8 or 9 layers. Add meat mixture in even layer. Repeat the phyllo/fat process for the remaining 8 or 9 layers atop the torta. Fold together the overlapping edges to make decorative edging around the torta. ORIGINAL TEXT & TRANSLATION
5.) A Spelt
Tort (1465 Naples) (a
spelt and custard torte in crust) Ingredients: ~~ Garnish Clean the spelt and cook in broth with pork fat. Drain broth. Mix spices, cheese, sugar, saffron and eggs and add to spelt. Place in pastry crust. Cover with cooked lasagna noodles. Garnish. Bake at 375 for about 30 minutes to 45 minutes until set. Yield: 1 pie Source: Primary Source: Notes: Used a recipe from a book
called "The Splendid Table" by Lynne Rossetto Kasper as a reference.
Sweets: 1.) Zabaglone (1465 Naples) (Zabaglione - warm, sweet, soft custard) #220 Per fare quatro taze de Zabaglone, piglia .xii. rossi de ova fresca, tre onze de zucaro he meza onza de canella bona he uno bucale de vino bono dolce, he fallo cocere tanto cha sia preso como uno brodeto. Et poi levalo for a he ponello in uno grando piatello davante alli Compagnone. Zabaglaone (#220) NICCOLO'S RECIPE 1 cup water to boil in double boiler 12 large egg yolks 1½ cups
Madeira wine 2 Tbl cold butter In metal or glass mixing bowl (suitable
for double boiler), whisk yolks and half of sugar together until pale and
completely combined. Place over hot water (double boiler) and heat, stirring or
whisking constantly. Add the wine all at once and heat until thickened and will
hold ribbons on its surface for a short time. Add cinnamon and stir in butter
quickly so that it incorporates before it melts. If too strong, add a little
water or grape juice Serve warm with fruit or candied peel. ORIGINAL TEXT & TRANSLATION
2.) Torta de Cerase (1465 Naples) (Cherry torte (cherries and sweet cheese torte)) #137 Tolle cesrase rosse ho piu negre che si possa trovare, he poi cavarai for a quello suo osso he pista e cerase in uno mortaro; poi piglia rose rrosse he batile – dico, solo le foglie – cum uno cultello molto bene tute; poi habi uno poco de caso fresco he veghio cum specie a discretione, he canella he bono zenzaro cum poco pipero he zucaro, he miscolari tute queste cose insieme, agiongendoli .vi. ova; et farai una crosta de pasta sopre la padella he cum meza libre de butiro, he ponella ha a cocere, dandoli el foco temperato; he quando he cotta, pone del zucaro he aqua rosata. Cherry Torte (#137) NICCOLO'S RECIPE 1 lb. Sour cherries 6
eggs Pastry crust (made with ½ #
butter) Coarsely grind cherries in mortar or food
processor, or chop coarsely with knife. Mix together cheeses, sugar, spices and
eggs. Add cherries and rosewater. Pour into prepared, pre-baked pastry shell
as one pie or as several tarts. Bake at 350F until just set and it moves as one
mass when jiggled, about 40 minutes; do not overcook! Remove from over and
sprinkle immediately with sugar and a dash of rosewater. ORIGINAL TEXT & TRANSLATION
3.) Ricciarelli (Almond Cookies) Sienna has claimed these chewy treats as its own since the 14th century. Today, they're enjoyed throughout Tuscany as a popular Christmas cookie. 2 cups peeled whole almonds Spread the almonds out on a cookie sheet
and bake in a preheated oven at 400 degrees for 3-5 minutes. Grind them in a
mortar and pestle and put into a mixing bowl. Stir in the sugars, orange peel
and fold in the egg white. Shape into small ovals. Place on cookie sheets line
with rice paper and let rest for about 10 hours. Bake in a preheated oven at 300
degrees for about 1 hour or until golden. DO NOT BROWN and they should remain
soft for several days. Cool and dust with extra powdered sugar. Serves
6-8. 4.) Sugared Almonds (Mandorle) This is Mistress Aramanthra’s tried and
true sugared almond recipe, which is fabulous! Ingredients: 1 pound of almonds (not salted) 1 cup of sugar ½ cup water 1 t almond extract 1 t cinnamon Combine the sugar and water and bring it to a boil, boil for 5 minutes. Add the almonds to the syrup, keeping it on high heat, and stirring frequently. After 10 minutes or so you will see the syrup begin to crystallize and suddenly the whole mixture will seize up. This will happen instantly! Remove from the heat and add the cinnamon and extract. Let sit covered for 10 minutes. Bring the pot back to the burner on low and heat it enough to separate the nuts. Spread it out on waxed paper over cooling racks and let it sit until cool. |
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