The old girl home at last. Bought second hand she performed without fault over all the 14000 Kms without even a puncture. She has taken me over The Holland, The Great Central, The Sandover, The Burke, The Peninsular, Cape York, The Savannah, The Buchannan and the Gibb in less than 40 days. Pretty much bullet proof and not bad on the tar as well.
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Winjana gorge to Perth in 3 and a half days on the tar. Get up , ride all day til dusk , go to sleep , get up etc? The road is all good and straight so it's just go go go. Only a couple of showers and with a dry road thro new norcia I gave the old girl her head and she fair sung along. At long last I remembered an old trick from NZ and cleaned my visor and left a smear of detergent on the inside face and guess what I can actually see when it rains - no more fogging you beauty. Left dennis in broome for some r&r as he has heaps of time left and he will take his time coming back.
The gibb river road. A bit of everything. Good dirt, bad dirt, rocky dirt , bull dust holes water and dust dust dust.no probs really . A lot of greybeards traffic. Camped a winjana gorge and no sooner had we arrived when a bloke strides over with a couple of beers. Good stuff considering the dry dusty throats we had. Chatted around the campfire and drank more of there beer that night as well.
Timber creek to home station. What a talk up. From the guy on the border who checked the bikes for mud (by then most of it had dryer and dropped off) to the grader driver at el questro we were expecting a real challenge in crossing the Pentecost river. We arrived at about 5pm at the river to be met by a bunch of greybeards with their cameras who were waiting on the riverbank for the fun to begin. One even advised us to take the left side as it was more shallow. So fighting off the crocs and waving all caution aside we waded in and found a nice shallow sandbank on one side with a small section of shallow rock on the right side for the rest. Most disappointing. Piece of cake. But beware , dirt roads change daily so we were lucky on this crossing.
Another long day in the dirt 450k with the final 100 on a rocky and Holley road winding thro hills. Needed a lot of concentration to stop smacking into the big ones and bending rims as well the setting sun again put shadows acros the road making it hard to see.Grab a meal and into bed cause at last we are close to WA again and its all homeward bound from then on. Had great night at the daly river pub, barra and beef for dinner along with the other70 people who were in the camp ground. Quite an institution for people on the road. They had show that is on every night. Guys tells stories, quotes poems and sings. Excellent. Does the same show every night but you would not know. Spent the night talking to to other travellers who all have a story to tell. Longest oldies on the road was 7years and still going strong. A bit of a slow start in the morning as as Steve has said off we went for another day on the bike. Not sure if it was the effects from last night but we had both had enough by the end of the day and was nice to hit the tar for the last few klms into timber creek, nice setting down by a stream. We watched them feed the fresh water crocks. Good thing as we are camped 50m from the water. No salt water ones so we are good to go and no fear of getting dragged out of the tent. Bike is going strong but back tire is looking worse for wear, I have a lot of respect for rubber. It just has to make it down the gibb river it's home free. Off to the gibb river road tomorrow, may well be the toughest test yet.
A
tar and nothing day. Tomorrow the Buchanan highway to timber creek
There is bit missing from the log. The rest of the infamous road. It was a strange morning, we both just got on doing what we do, breakfast and pack,very little talking as I know I was not looking forward to another 70klm of the road we had just experienced. Off we set, same shit different day for the first 10klmbut slowly it improved with sections of gravel between the slop. End result we reached the tar after another 3 hours to complete the remaining 50 odd klms. Bikes looked a mud clump. Headed down the tar to Gregory downs. Steve leading and when he arrived another motorbike Rider ran out and asked him to take the pub tele number out to a group how had a fallen rider. The guy was in a state and in the end the flying doctor, police etc were on site and two guys were flown out to mount isa. Turns out they ran into each other. With the day before and this we were loosing time. Steve returned and we headed off to adel grove 100klm away. Good dry road but with signs of the mud we had experienced, ie big ruts everywhere but a popular destination so cars and vans flattened out for us. Adel grove is a fantastic little oasis in the desert, deserved more time to look at the national park. We were refused entry to the dinner area because we had thongs on and they did not want to offend their high paying guests who fly. We agreed to sit outside the swish area we suked off the the but camped ourselves on the outer limits of the deck and parked ourselves taking special note of all the other guests who also had on thongs, turned out alright as the little guys came and got our plates while all the otherguestshad to take there's andsrape and clean them, he did not want us showing off our are legs clad with thongs. . The food was also served army style, they pass the plate olong a series of people who doled out the roast. Don't want the guests taking more than they deserve. A little bezare rally,rang a bell and we all rushed upto get our allocation of desert. Nice place but next day we headed off towards booraloola.as wedo we took the back way which was ok but all in all the most crossings we have done,about 10 in total for the day, deepest up to our knees. No mishaps and we stopped for a pie a hells gate roadhouse. The road was fine n and we motored along and did our longest day, 540klm all on dirt . Now we are heading west we are now getting the after noon sun lwhich is a pain as it is either in our eyes or flicking through the trees which makes the road hard to see for any ruts holesetc. Pulled in to booraloola about 530pm tired and with aching arms and shoulders. Nice shower and set up camp Andes to the local for a meal, finally managed to find someone as it seemed to be closed but they let us in and we enjoys freshly caught barramundi forma fish farm inthailand, just joking, it was very good.
This trip just gets better and better. What with rain, mud and emergency dashes to crash sites I shudder to think what will happen next. The blokes that hit the ground were on a tour group on a closed road. Hate to think what the legalities of that would be. The big tank is a real boon as I always have enough fuel for whatever.
Well we headed off towards normanton on the tar, easy as. Stopped for breakfast and a coffee and decided to take the short cut down to Gregory downs, same track we did on the way up. Said goodbye to hanky mate who headed down the the tar. As it turned out that was what we should have done. The road started ok but got progressively worse as we went on. Got to our turn south and off we went, stubborn fools. The road was just breezy slop from recent rain, it took us 4 hous to do 35klm. Nothing but slimy mud that stuck to everything and slippery as, jamed front and back wheels so they would not turn at all. We would have to stop and clean themed out and go again, our boots weighed about 10kg each with the mud stuck to them. Steve punter though and only the issue with the mud jamming his back wheel. The BMW fell over and got bogged a few times , Steve helps me get it out. Note, do not stand behind a bogged bikewhilepushing, cost me dinned as he was covered all up the front withmudfrom the back wheel. No photo though. Just an awful day and camped in the bush as we could not get through to the Nenad. Retired exhausted and just had enough
In the end it was the classic Mexican standoff. My bike was stuck with the back jammed packed with mud and dennis was 500m in front stuck fast with a jammed front wheel. It was 6pm. I walked towards dennis and dennis walked towards me. I thought it was going to be helmets at 10 paces after being slapped with muddy wet glove. We met in the middle. Wandda camp he said? Yep I said. So we got my bike movin first and parked it in the middle and then got dennis bike movin and back to the camp. The cape to cape was a picnic compared to this.
Today was the day. Worse weather yet. It was wet, very wet, it was winding road, very winding and it was cold, very cold. After coming across a town with a sign picking out from the mist and cloud and rain that it was the highest town in Queensland it was a relief to head down to the plains west of the great divide to warmth and NO rain. The warmer conditions dried out the riding gear as headed towards normanton. We were going to camp at a site after croydon but lots of small Roos and after a day on the bike it was getting difficult to pick the Roos from ant hills so camped up at croydon for the night. We are traveling with an American guy we met in caines who is retracing a rid his dad did in 1977 on a 250 Honda. He is doing the trip bit by bit and is heading to Darwin where his bike goes on about to Singapore for the next leg. He is writing a book about the trip plus making a document of his trip. We may make a one line comment.
Well we made our way back down the cape to approx where we joined it and headed over towards the coast onthe battle camp road towards cook town. Good track with lots of road works but up and down and around through rainforest type stuff. Reminded Steve too much ok newzeeland. Cloudy and cold and we ended up staying in a camp ground just outside of cook town. We were the only guests. My rep reputation Safire lighter was theses as all the wood I could find was vine type stuff that would just not burn. Managed to cook a meal, either that or fried chicken from the shop, and make a cup of tee and gave up. The next day we headed into cook town for some coffee and some picks of the captain cook monument. Turns out that cook town was build due to gold fields out at palmerville where we rode through 5 or 6 days before. Useless info, cook town requested form the parties at the time that they needed protection forma Russian invasion so the town was sent a cannon and 3 cannon balls, ammo was tight in those days. From cook town we headed down the coast to the Bloomfield track which runs down to cape trib. 50klm of 4wd track through therainforrestandmountains, great track with steep climbs and descents and some of the deepest crossings weave come across. Had 4wd stop to watches fall off in the eek but spoilt there day by making it through. Continued onto cainesviscape trib. Good ride. Anew days r and r in caines.
Had a look at trucking the bike back but as the costs were about the same decided with the kind permission/tolerance from Lee to ride back across the top.
We made it. But what a shitty day. First dennis had a flat and then I put the old girl down in the rain and mud and what with the rain and dust and muddy roads it was a long day. Then the track out to the point was slow and muddy and den dropped it in the very last river crossing and then we were there, tired wet dirty bent and hot hot hot. Steve is tired. The story of thedaystarted the night before when some guy we talking to said , yep the road is fine except for few bitss of sand, there is no rain predicted so you will be fine as the road is clay and turns to an ice ring when wet. So we set off on the last leg of our tip to tip. It was overcast but nice. 25klm out a puncture on the BMW. Damn. A hole in the 4mm tube but no hole in the tire, strange. Anyway it was fixed but started raining, damn. Got under way,hot and dirty with 240 to go. Therain continued and the rain got heavier and the dreaded clay turned to ice. Just awful riding, visor fogged ,cannot see and the roared Is slippery as. Well wegotthrough apart from Steve's slow low side and the road changed to sand and gravel and away we went. Very windy but good fun. Got to bamaga and headed for the tip, took some finding down this little track through rain Forrest. Really nice ride but slippery. Got to the end expecting something for the tourist but just a hand written sign saying 15 min walk around the beach Ong over the rocks. Found our sign and photos taken,been there and done that. Camped up at Sisis and the coast.
Tomorrow should be an easy day as we got within a couple of hundred K today. The roads are good but quite a lot of traffic. Have to stop and let the dust settle. Checked the air filter as the bike won't rev and sure enough it was clogged as.
This the completion of the dirt short cut to the peninsular road. Rained on and off as wedid this section so web outset. Many Creekcrossing and dips but agood ride though the hills and winding tracks. Gates everywhere which are a bit of a pain after awhile, hop off hop on. took us 5 hours to complete about 140klm and finally popped out on the peninsula road witha sigh of relief and continued on to musgrave road house for a rest and watched the Nrl state of origin. Bus load of west Audi oldies camped up with us. The palmaville track had a big bypass around the closed bit that was just a bulldozed track thro the bush and some sections had no evidence of traffic at all which was bit of a concern at times that we were on the right path but in the end I just followed the charging dennis who was on a mission.
Well after a great deal of discussion and procastranation and talks with the cops we decided that the 2metres water across the mitchell crossing at Dunbar was a little too much to handle and decided to to the palmaville track instead although all the roads were closed. Luckily just as we were leaving we came across 3 blokes on bikes who had just come thro and confirmed it was doable. So off we went and once decided nothing was going to stop wheels - not fire nor water. Rode thro a smoking fire front and finally did a good 400k on the Burke development before stopping. We later found that going past road closed signs is $600 fine and demerit points. We only went past 2. There was lots of roadwork going on so the road was good andgaveusno trouble. Camped onanair field and had avisit from about 6 cows as we sat in the dark. Jaunt curios and ran off a the first load noise and were not seen again.
Yep here we are in karumba for some r&r before the push for the top. 540kms without fuel and the Mitchell river to ford. And yep needless to say the beach and tavern are right across the road. An eeeaasssyyyy run today with the only thing to note is our first water crossing and me and a cattle road train on the same bit of creek crossing unexpectantly at the same time - the road train won with me taking to the bush. It was all over in a blink leaving me totally blind in dust for a good 5 minutes. Just another day
Well what do you , camped pretty much on the rum line in the middle of no where next to a fence line. Kept company during the night by howling dingos, a bit disconcerting but they seemed a fair distance away. Roads were ok and did about 450klms, past through Gregory downs stop, basically just a pub with all thelocalssitting around enjoying there Sunday off. Somewaterin theriverthat was flowing quite quickly. Will head off fornormaton / karumba in the morning. Short day and rest up for the run across to the ape road. Will be the most isolated section but will check with thelocal councilor what's open and what's closed and decide where we can go
Well well an eventful day. I lost one of my sand shoes. We had to wait for a mob of cattle and had a chat to the helicopter mustering pilot who landed on the road next to us and I,ll let Den tell the rest. Nice guy , wife's family ones Barkley downs a several others. We waited for about an hour for them to mover the herd down and off the the road into pens. Basic track but nothing to worry about , a few rocky sections but a short day, 250 klms and propped up in the Camawheel pub. Damn bike fell over while waiting under a tree for the cattle to move and knee popped again while trying to stand it up again. Will need to watch it and chose our roads carefully. Better to get there after all this.way then not get there that all. Chance to do some washing and have a shower after two days camping for for two nights on the side of the road. Steve is 2 /0 in chess on the iPad, smugg bastard, never gives me a minute peace.oh me forgot I forgot to mention that I had to flag down a carload of locals to help me pick up the bike most helpful they were.
Well a big day today, about 440 Kim's but the road was ok, bit sandy in places, hard clay and narrow rocky tracks but not bad. Had our usual stops every hour so averaged only about 60 Kim per hour, last did 90 as the road was hard packed clay and as smooth as, ah sweet. Another hidden away camp site found by the master tracker and a warm night and good sleep was had. Notavery eventful day just klmafter klm and the odd corner to stop us going to sleep. After the great central it just a transport section just to get to the end.
Oh me God we had a lay off the bikes. And what did we do but took a bus and traveled 920km to see Kings Canyon. But it was worth it and tar all the way. Next day bright and early we took to Binns Track and eventually got onto the sandover highway. Now you may think that the sandover highway is named because of the amount of sand over the road or even because it crosses the sandover river but you would be all wrong. It's called the sandover cause Mr Sandover who lived up this way and was one of the first pastoralists used to have this distinctive wave as he was passing other cars on his road to say Hi. So it's actually the Sandover Hi wave. No bull cause it sure aren't a highway. But all in all the road is no worse than the great central highway. Couple of good camps night on the sandover. Met some police who were good guys and offered to take our bikes and let us take the old mate down to Alice jail. We declined. But we did get a mintee. After a great deal of trouble the night before to hide ourselves away in the bush the cops mentioned that they knew exacting where we were cause they and everyone else could see our tracks heading off the road. Damm
Camped inthe bush with a camp fire and music from the iPad. Dehydrated meal was the worst ever, rice with chicken waved over the top, most of it ended in the bush. It was by far the coldest night we have had, there was ice on the riding jacket which was over the bike and the condensation on the tent top froze when I put it out to dry. It was freezing al night and even with all the thermals on, se videor, was cold all night. Had a fire in the morning to warm up and then just a short ride, 200 Kim, we were in Alice. No rest, booked into a cabin for two nights, tonight is 0 degrees so that was a good decision. Changed the oil in the bikes at a local kwaka dealer. They are getting ready for the fink desert race. We past some of the track on the way in today. 200klm motocross track at 160klm . Big ones those boys. Off to kings canyon on a bus, yeh, tomorrow. Big day, pickup at 6 and dropped off at 12 midnight.
A lot of tar today. What with no entry signs and a resounding no from the ranger and phantom hemma tracks (see photo) it was a a tar day until the Ernst Giles road. It was funny but both dennis and I were a bit hesitant at first cause in the back of our minds Paul's getoff played on our minds so it tok a bit until we got into the usual rythem of rough road riding. Camped in a great spot but bloody cold. We both agree that camping out with the others would have been the one thing that we were lookin forward to on the great central.
A quick word from Paul.
Well John & I completed Cape2Rock but both of us came a cropper just before we hit the tar at the Olgas so have to now leave Cape2Cape to "Dirt Devils" Steve & Dennis.
After hundreds of kilometers of corragations, sand and gravel both bikes were going really well however I highsided 1 km before the tar in a stretch of sand rendering the bike a major insurance job and me very sore but lucky to be alive.
I was able to nurse the bike into Yulara riding towards Uluru as the sun set over it - a fantastic site and an incredible way to finish the trip.
My bike is now in the hands of the insurance company any I fly back to Perth tomorrow.
The corregations took their toll on John's rear suspension making the bike impossible to handle on the dirt and sand. As it is not repairable by other than a capital city dealer John is now nursing it back slowly to Melbourne.
So now John an I will be monitoring Steve and Dennis over the Internet and willing them through the corragations, sand and gravel as you inch towards the cape.
GOOD LUCK GUYS!!
Then there were two. The road into Ayres was a bit sandy and corrugated especially the last 500m where Paul came off. Bikes took a pounding but we got into the Olga's bout 3. Had a look around Giles before we left which was interesting. Staying a day at Ularoo for rest repairs repose sightseeing and food. Dennis has put me on notice that we won't be doing any silly more tracks in case he damages his bike or knee so will have to bite the bullet and modify me route into Alice Not that I will be too unhappy about that- how bout the Finke desert race track - have another beer Dennis. We were lookin forward to seeing the guys but it was not meant to be. Lookin forward to a day off - bit dirt road weary at the moment or maybe it's a hangover
A fairly long day to get to Giles. We were repeatedly warned not to hang around Warbaeton cause of theft so filled up and kept going. Got to Giles about 3pm just before the roadhouse closed at 5 -yep they work on NT time out here. Got a couple of take away meals and had a relaxing time talking to other travelers and having a good long shower - road good with little sand. Dennis chose his spot to camp right under an old microwave dish - I am sure he is missin work the way he zones in to every bit of telecommunication gear around.
On our way across the red center. Roads were ok with some loose sandy bits just to kep us focused, look up weight on the foot pegs and follow a rut. Made god time to first roadhouse so kept going and amped at paradise campsite 90k further on . Don't let the name roll you it was an exaggeration , gavel pit with a few trees but off the road so good. Steve had moment as his Kmart chair broke, $5 down the drain, cable ties saw itholdhim up for the night. Warm night so sat by afire and looked at the thousands of stars. Had a number of mice running around to kep us company. After our food and Steve found on his bike checking out the pannier. Note zip up the tent. All night was sounds of things running around. Woke up with a start and sat bolt upright thinking something was on my face only to work out after a search of the tent that it was the toggle from the sleeping bag liner, Steve had a good laugh at that.
Here is today's log from Kal to laverton, good roads all the way, the navigator and route map man has done a great job. Steve has had a disappointing day as we had to do 20 Kim of tar road , I am sure he was considering riding on the verge. There is an amazing number of mines out the back of Kal and the Olymic damn mine is huge but one advantage of having the mine is that the roads from the mine to laverton were like a highway. We are camped in the caravan park at laverton, nice little place and we are on the grass patch for tents with our bikes close by. The bikes are both going really well with no issues to date. Nothing has fallen off or broken and they just cruse along at about 80 or 90 which is what we sit on on the gravel roads. My knee is ok, will have to put it down to either voltarin or Kilkenny but its good to go. Dennis and steve
It's been a long hard day. The Holland lived up to its rep as being unexpected and taxing but we got thro ok. A couple of spills and me getting bogged in sticky mud slowed us down a wee bit. No injuries cept a graze on me arm from a tree bunch and a sore knee. No people no animals and a great deal of wilderness. Got to Coolgardie bout 3pm and did a quick double take and tore down the rail track to get a chalet in Kal. Then it's off to the pub for tea and a wee tipple then bed. Just had the worlds best shower and it's only been two days. What a pleasure.
Just been out to the Albian in Boulder for food and drinks. Heaven. Met Lee's brother Rob who filled us in on the road north, all good info.
Tomorrows an other day.
We can be tracked in real time on http://share.findmespot.com/shared/faces/viewspots.jsp?glId=07EXO74Ufu6Duy1TmUXs5zKllRcr6TNsQ
Thanks to twinkle toes john 'Oh no he,s down'
Today's ride , day two, good roads a bit of the holland track, wind is blowing like a bugger and makes it as cold as. No rain so that's a plus. No getting lost so that saved some time but still a full days ride from 8 till 5, just like being at work. Today we past 2 towns which is two more than yesterday. Last night freezing and wet this morning all the gear was wet but the wind today has dried it out after being hung on the Telstra fence for 30 minutes. Pitched the test and started on dinner only to find a spider the size of a 20 cent trying to get into the tent, bad luck for him. As somehow he got squashed into the sand, 20 min later there was another one, same fate as the first, hope that's the whole family. Well that's it for the day hard ride tomorrow on our old friend. Going to bed at 8.30 makes. For a long night8.
Well it's been four days of riding and the old bones are holding up pretty well. Today was was a long one for me as the postie bike was getting blown all over the road by the gale force gusts coming from the side across the stubble fields. It was much better when we slowed down on the track and had a bit of bush for protection. Put the bike down today and wasn't quick enough to pick it up before Dennis saw-damm. The funniest thing was when Dennis,s horn jammed on and he had to continue with it blaring out. Best goddam roo shoe-er around. Finally found a use for a BM. Tonight it's cold and blowin a gale but it's all good.
Sunday 6/5. Leaving Augusta we headed off all together only to part a couple of K,s when Dennis and I took to the dirt. A bit of a mixed bag of roads with some roads not there as per the map and other roads appearing out of nowhere. Took a couple of wrong turns which ended up in dead ends and airports and creek beds etc. the day ended just short of Broomehill with a camp just off the Albany Highway. It was cool alL day with temp at about 14 for most. Camped by the side of the road , it was cold all night and slept in everything we had apart from the riding jacket, Early start and off to Broomehill for breakfast and a cup of coffee, Howling winds which make the riding uncomfortable. Heading off to the holland track and will camp out over night, See ya all, dennis and steve
Woke up to torrential rain and thought 'o no not again' but by the time I had fueled up and had a bite the sun had come out. The tracks south had a combination of nothing and great open throttle blast so had a great day of wonderful wonderful karri country cross country riding. Arrived Augusta about 3pm and meet up with the other riders for drinks and dinner at the pub.
Friday 4/5/12. Made it to Collie about 6:30 in the dark and have booked into a Donga to dry out. Absolutely wet thro as it fair pissed down all day. Heaps of Roos and emus some of which got dangerously close. Road just one long mud slide with deep puddles. Just like riding down a river at times. Got lost a couple of times as I wasn't checking my route as much as I should due to the rain. Had to ride with my visor up in the end as it got cold and things started misting up. Tomorrow is another day. edit
And here it is
On the way south to check out a track around the tar
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