Top Motor Repair

If your motor broke like this, you have come to the right place.

Here is what you get in the kit from Christian's website, at http://www.ib-ideenbau.de/-E-30.40337.html?PHPSESSID=cc9401ebf81fd5587c09ef4d07ff51a7

Interesting the screws are made in the US!

Another outfit also makes a repair part now that looks like it may be easier to install and may be cheaper. Info here: http://www.automac.co.uk/product/E30%20H%20mtr

The rest will this page will cover theGerman part that I used.

You get the new metal transmission part, some screws, two tie wraps and a 2mm allen wrench plus instructions to install in the motor

These are the tools one of the folks that did the same project used:

Here is what the part looks like next to the broken motor

Remove the push in pins that hold on the cover below the motor

Remove the "C" clip from the cable on the left side

Remove the cover

There is the motor!

Now close the trunk and open the top cover. I had to release the motor with the lever to move the top

Remove the allen screw on the motor

Remove the allen screws holding the motor in, one might be hiding under the carpet!

Close the top cover

Open the trunk

Loosen the screw and lower the control box out of the way

Disconnect the three cables and remove the motor

Once you have removed the motor, remove the tie wraps, hinge pin, and 3 bolts per the instructions

Then you must cut out part of the top cover. This was difficult for me, and I ended up cutting too much. I had to go to Sears to get a RotoZip tool that was on sale that came with a dremel like attachment. One of the cutting bits that came with it made quick work of the metal. You also have to remove a bunch of metal on the other side of the cover on the edge so that the part can sit flat. Tons of metal shavings everywhere!

One of the people that went in with me (Mike) on the parts did a much better job on his cover. He started using a cutting wheel and a dremel on the straights and the cover reinforcement. He ended up using a very dull jigsaw on the big curve. The 3/8ths drill and grinder made short work of the tight curve. He used it and a round file to do the final milling. With careful milling, He got the kit piece to fit as well as He could have wanted. I wish mine looked that nice!

I also had trouble getting the screw holes to line up exactly. I would advise making one hole a little larger, put the one screw in, and assemble the covers. Make sure it all goes together, then tighten the one screw. Then take the covers apart and use a pencil through the holes to mark where to drill the others. Christian (the guy who sold me the part) recommends using the part as a drilling jig (start with a 3/32 drill bit). I thought of this, but was afraid of hitting the sides of the holes in the part and messing up the threads.

I finally got all the holes to line up, although some were a little oval, and larger than they needed to be. I also filled in the area around the part with some P-B Weld I think it was called. Like an epoxy, but it is supposed to harden like steel..

Here is a picture of Mike's motor after he drilled and installed the repair part.

After I let the epoxy harden overnight, I put on the tie wrap, and I installed the motor. I had both the trunk and the lid open somewhat, and reached around the edge of the trunk to hold the motor up as I started one of the allen screws. This probably would have been easier with two people. Don't forget to leave out the two motor screws that hold on the cover, which you will install later. (like I did)

Then I started re-attaching the levers. You have to attach the one that connects to the part that broke first. Then you can put the one that screws into the toothed hole second. Below I have the first rod connected, and the one that is off to the left is the one I should have installed first. Also you might have to release the motor to get things to line up right. Don't forget a little grease on the brass bushings (or the brass bushings for that matter). You should be able to install the cover after this is all together.

Put back in the control box if you removed it and connect all the motor cables. They were all unique so there was no way to mix them up. Dress them in the cable holders. Engage the motors. I had to turn them a bit to get mine to line up and close.

Now that everything is back together and all the electrical connections were made and the motors engaged, I tried the top. Nothing happened. I had to go through the re-alignment procedure described here. In my case I had to turn the screw to the left while hearing the click for it to start working instead of to the left as the instructions stated. A picture of the adjustment screw is below (arrow). You might want to mark where the screw was before you start, and look at the location of the switch.

After I was done, and the top was working, for some reason I had to adjust the cables that pull the top lid down and lock it when you finish opening the top. I tightened each cable a bit until both sides of the cover did not rattle when it was closed.