Waterproof Floor Paint

waterproof floor paint
  • make watertight; "Waterproof the coat"
  • any fabric impervious to water
  • Impervious to water
  • Not liable to be washed away by water
  • rainproof: not permitting the passage of water
  • A level area or space used or designed for a particular activity
  • a structure consisting of a room or set of rooms at a single position along a vertical scale; "what level is the office on?"
  • The lower surface of a room, on which one may walk
  • shock: surprise greatly; knock someone's socks off; "I was floored when I heard that I was promoted"
  • the inside lower horizontal surface (as of a room, hallway, tent, or other structure); "they needed rugs to cover the bare floors"; "we spread our sleeping bags on the dry floor of the tent"
  • All the rooms or areas on the same level of a building; a story
  • make a painting; "he painted all day in the garden"; "He painted a painting of the garden"
  • a substance used as a coating to protect or decorate a surface (especially a mixture of pigment suspended in a liquid); dries to form a hard coating; "artists use `paint' and `pigment' interchangeably"
  • A colored substance that is spread over a surface and dries to leave a thin decorative or protective coating
  • An act of covering something with paint
  • Cosmetic makeup
  • apply paint to; coat with paint; "We painted the rooms yellow"

Portable model buiding kit: 6 quart Sterilite shoe box, retired kit box.
Portable model buiding kit: 6 quart Sterilite shoe box, retired kit box.
A selection of paints, tools, containers, masking tape, decals, sand paper, all in a clear shoe box with a lid that doubles as a work surface. Cheap and effective! This box has traveled across the up and down the US by car and airplane (checked luggage- its been viewed and leafleted by the TSA many times). Liquid / sticky contents are all non-toxic, everything except the glue is water based or at least water-thinned. There are hard tools, soft tools and consumables, including small amounts of raw materials. Occasionally parts of model kits travel around in the tool box. If I need more paints than one box holds or more raw materials, I typically bring a second shoebox. They stack nicely. Contents: Testor's blue label non-toxic glue is not toxic while drying, doesn't smell bad, but IS flammable while drying... some interesting chemistry there... It comes in a thick version, in a tube, but the thin stuff in the funny triangular containter is my favorite. I first saw it sometime before 1986, bought a container, and never looked back. I'd already switched from tube glue to liquid glue when I was a teenager. A lot of Polly Scale hobby paint, some Testor's Acryl II, a little Tamiya, some Vallejo, some Gunze Sangyo. I switched to acrylic paints in the 1980s- years ago. I tried Polly S/Polly Scale, Tamiya, Gunze Sangyo and Pactra/Testor's model paints. Where Polly Scale hasn't got a color I want, I use Testor's Acryl II. Testor's paint is more widely available, if I'm mixing something for telling other people about it, I tend to use Testor's. Future floor wax, (aka Johnson's Kleer). Also Polly Scale and Tamiya acrylic flat for surfaces. Microscale Micro Set and Micro Sol An X-acto knife (small handle, #11 blade) or two, One or two stainless steel spatulas (the ones for moving grams and milligrams of dry reagents around) which I use as paint stirrers. Masking tape: 3M's blue, long duration product is my general favorite. Tamiya's yellow, rice-paper, stretchable tape is my second favorite, and regular beige tape is the fall-back. Paint brushes. I particularly like "flat" brushes, of all sizes, for painting stuff. For very small things. very small, round, brushes. Typically shorter rather than longer, but I do have some small, long ones too. I also use big, soft, lacquer brushes for applying Future Floor wax and other overall coatings. Parts clippers - I used to use diagonal wire cutters, electronic style, but switched to purpose made clippers about 10 years ago. Good investment. Fingernail and toenail clippers are also usable. Tweezers with thin, flat, ends. NOT the various items Squadron or your local hardware store sells. Huge metal fingers with grooved pluckers at the end. Forget it. I have a pair of electronic assembler's tweezers, with dead straight ends, just flat, thin, metal. Stainless steel, they taper down to thin at the working end. They're perfect for me. They work with little parts, decals, anything I want to do. Files. Small flat files, Very small round files. Waterproof sanding sticks. Fingernail style- foam cores, waterproof. Fine, medium and coarse. If you want to sand something flat ("block sand") just put the sanding stick against a rigid surface- kitchen counter next to the sink, or any other surface you can put a damp, abrasive tool on. Wet-dry sand paper. This is the most consumable item in the box. Regular sand paper- 85 to 220, say, is robust stuff and wears out, but can be kept around and used long after its seriously worn. Wet-dry paper in the 600-800-1000-1200-1500-2000 grit ranges is much finer stuff. Use it, get the piece(s) the way you want them, toss the paper. Its worn out. For really find sanding, i don't just moisten the paper, I put a tiny dab of dish detergent on the paper or on the piece being sanded. This lubricates, just like cutting fluid on a saw or drill/tap/etc, floating off the damp dust that the sanding produces instead of allowing it to clump on the paper (or the part). Sand a scrap of something with an interesting shape- a wing or horizontal stabilizer or rudder, using an old, junky piece of wet dry now in your tool box. Now try a brand new piece. Now try the brand new piece with detergent and water. You can * f e e l * the difference in how much the paper pulls against the plastic. The more pull, the more cutting. IMG_5351
all a dream we dreamed
all a dream we dreamed
At the improbably early hour of half past seven, we filtered into the bus, dazed, in the square next to the church. For the next two hours I left the driving to someone else and gazed vacantly out of the window. France rolled by, much of it twisty, almost all of it blurred. Camera shake, but without the camera. We went first to look at lavender fields. The stuff’s been used, so we were told, to scent soap at least since Roman times, hence the name of the plant (from lavare, to wash). Up until the early 1960s, Provence was coloured lavender in July, as anyone who’s looked at a Van Gogh painting can testify. There are 20 or 30 species of the plant, of which 3 get onto French farmers’ radar. The king of lavenders is Lavendula angustifolia, revered for its delicate camphorous and costly oil, used in fine perfumes. The knave is L. latifolia, a clumsy oafish plant used to make paint. And then there’s the one we stood and looked at, a hybrid of the other two. It smelt like detergent, washing powder, or cheap shampoos. Our guide told us that competition with overseas growers, especially in Bulgaria and increasingly China, has lowered the price so much that French farmers find it hard to make a living out of what was once an easy money-spinner. With the alarming prospect of actually having do some work to make money, many lavender farmers are looking for other sources of income. Truffles seem to be the way to go. Each truffle weighs between 10 and 100 gm, and in France you can get €600 - €1000 for a kilo. In France, truffles are on a par with Joan of Arc – a mystical topic to treat with reverence. Unlike the late Joan – or Jeanne – truffles are only ever accidentally burned to a crisp. More normally they are a fragrant and much-prized ingredient in top-end omelettes, sauces, and pastry, and only handed over to the English with regret. There are dozens of species of these subterranean fungi, but the one that French pigs and people like to eat is Tuber melanosporum, the Perigord truffle, rabasse, or Black Diamond. They live in a curiously intimate relationship with various species of tree, including Quercus ilex, the evergreen Holm Oak and Quercus pubescens, the White Oak, but since this is a family show, we shall gloss over the details. Until very recently, no one knew how to cultivate truffles. Well, to tell the truth, they still don’t, but on the principle that you can’t win if you don’t participate, the more truffle oak seedlings you plant, and the more soil you import from close to existing truffle infestations, the better. I could go on to discuss the relative merits of truffle pigs and truffle dogs, but you’ve suffered enough of this drivel already. The upshot is that all those characteristic Provencal lines of lavender will steadily be replaced by oaks. This tunnel? It’s part of an evil plan to convert the spectacular Grand Canyon du Verdon into a vast lake. The Baou Tunnel is one of several that would have been part of a massive hydroelectric scheme. Luckily the Great War intervened – I’ve been wanting to write something positive about WWI for decades, and now I’ve done it – and the scheme was abandoned. Today this tunnel is one of several on the Sentier Martel, part of the Grande Randonnee 4. The canyon is well worth the visit, but wear waterproof boots. The tunnel floors are sometimes, as here, mostly puddle. This shot was taken by the random light of the flashlights carried by the other people on the field trip. I waited until they’d all gone. The tunnel was darker than anything I’ve ever been unable to see. Date: 2007 09 06 Geotag: N 43°46'54.74 E 006°23'27.78 Title: Grateful Dead - Box of Rain

waterproof floor paint
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