Best Digital Camera Under 150

    digital camera
  • A camera that records and stores digital images
  • a camera that encodes an image digitally and store it for later reproduction
  • (Digital cameras) Means to capture and input still images without film.
  • A digital camera (also digicam or camera for short) is a camera that takes video or still photographs, or both, digitally by recording images via an electronic image sensor.
    150
  • 150 is the natural number following 149 and preceding 151.
  • one hundred fifty: being ten more than one hundred forty
  • Year 150 (CL) was a common year starting on Wednesday (link will display the full calendar) of the Julian calendar.
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best digital camera under 150 - 150 Finding
150 Finding Your Story in the Psalms
150 Finding Your Story in the Psalms
Sung, whispered, shouted, and groaned by Muslims and Jews, Protestants and Catholics, Bob Marley and J. S. Bach, the Psalms express the faith of a thousand generations. People have used psalms to voice their deepest anguish and delight, to comfort others, to express emotions they hardly dare to admit.

In this book Kevin Adams shares stories of unlikely psalm prayers and an unpredictable God, opening up the honest and earthy world of the psalms in new and unexpected ways. And he invites us to find our own story within that community of faith.

Reading this book you will find yourself underlining an especially poignant verse here or jotting notes in the margin there, as the psalms come alive through the stories of those who have used and abused them through the centuries.

Bourbon St, French Quater, New Orleans La: Jun. '11
Bourbon St, French Quater, New Orleans La: Jun. '11
[Minolta 500si Super, Tamron 19-35, Promaster mcUV filter, Fuji ISO200 color negative film ~F11 1/100s 20mm eff > CVS > Epson V300 > Gimp] ...one more shot of Jackson Square. This one took me about 1-1/2hrs to postprocess in Gimp. About 10 min spent on dust. Which is why I usually do maybe one a night. Came out about a 9 out of 10. A few places I missd with a mask, not many and not large. I could have fought to make it a little sharper and to tamp-down more of the highlights, control the blowouts better, but not bad for a couple-hours' work. It should withstand close-inspection. Now that is not due to the fact that it's film. It's simply due to the white stone. And the fact that I ran a mask down to the leaves on the trees. Luckly it's only 30MP :) but I'm getting tired of seeing sharpening-noise just above the trees and around the buildings, even at 100%. So I mask as much of the sky out as possible. Painstaking but worth it in the end, I think, as I don't have to worry about that afterwards. This is one thing that is not a big problem with digital that is a big problem with film, as a 30MP scanned film shot has to be sharpened so strongly to even look close to as sharp as a reasonably-sharp digital shot that the grain in the sky beomes obvious when sharpened, also in the parts that are bright but don't have much fine-detail. So the USM has to be masked-away where it is obnoxious and it's made even more obnoxious where the shot is grainy, bright, flat without texture, pushed, contrasted *and* sharpened. So more work at 100%, editing masks for pushing and sharpening, possibly even for contrast, masks that are usually not the same. That's maybe an hour alone. And with a true wide angle (i.e. shooting the lens on an SLR vs a subframe DSLR) there's more keystoning and optical distortion. Of course many software-packages and many cameras will "fix" this "automatically" by reading the lens data off the Exif table and applying canned image-corrections, or even just by analyzing the image itself, but I'm working in Gimp with scanned-film. I have to do this all by eye. If the optical-corrections come out right, and I always work on the optical corrections first, I just hate to work on an image that doesn't look straight. This means that occasionaly I have to start all over again, an hour later, after getting halfway through it, when I can't be happy with what I've done to straighten it out. With digital, with a DSLR raw shot <= ISO400 or a p&s raw shot @ ISO80 (I don't bother with ISO100), which is where I almost-always shoot, I normally wouldn't have to go to that extreme or be so precise with the masks as there is just not any real noise, a slight overlap of the USM with the sky is barely-detectable and it doesn't have to be painstakingly masked-out by hand, and I could have done this in 15 minutes. Beyond that everything is the same between film and digital, as far as I see it. In the camera jpegs there's no fine-detail to sharpen, even my D70 applies significant NR even at ISO200. With digital, even shooting raw, undoubtedly you'd get better SNR & need less sharpening than with scanned-film. At least with my cheap scanner. And I'm not quite ready to buy a $1k 35mm film scanner to see if that takes care of the problem. I think that at that point it's time for an A850. Though the one thing that I don't see in this is that classic "digital" plasticky look, with a strong green bias and washed-out colors and a slight hint of quantization. The color here, while not phenomenal, at least is nice, smooth and even, with a classic Fujifilm look. I didn't even adjust the white-blance or the saturation of the original scan, after adjusting the brightness and contrast. Couldn't be easier. The devil you see vs the devil that you don't...neither side is perfect...and that's why we chase MP and generally buy expensive lenses, digital fullframes and MF gear. Not so much to get better fine-detail but to get better color without having to deal with film or funky software-packages. You can get "ok" shots with cheap gear but if you want a really-great "look" you have to spend real money. The question will always be, though...are the results worth the money? That's why I stopped taking shots above ISO400 with my subframes, why I don't use ISO400 film, why I never shoot a p&s above ISO200...why I don't own a fullframe or IS lenses anymore. To me a noisy shot with crappy color just isn't worth the effort, relying on IS or ISO instead of a tripod doesn't make sense, and an expensive camera just isn't worth the money. Fullframes may make sense economically compared to shooting film but good used subframes are so much cheaper than good used fullframes, and at low ISO are effectively just as good, IQ-wise. I just can't generate the justification to buy one at $1K+ when I have two decent subframes that together cost me $250, a decent p&s that cos
Jordan Pond, Arcadia National Park, Maine
Jordan Pond, Arcadia National Park, Maine
From Wikipedia:- Jordan Pond is an oligotrophic tarn in Acadia National Park near the town of Bar Harbor, Maine. It covers 187 acres (76 ha), with a maximum depth of 150 feet (46 m) and a shoreline of 3.6 miles (5.8 km). The pond was formed by the Wisconsin Ice Sheet during the last glacial period. It is flanked on the west by Penobscot Mountain and to the northeast by the two mountains known as the Bubbles. The southern end, and outflow, are limited by the natural Jordan Pond moraine, which has been supplemented by a small dam. The pond has clear water, with visibility normally 46 feet (14 m) and occasions of up to 60 feet (18 m) recorded, the deepest in Maine. It serves as the water supply for the village of Seal Harbor. It does not experience dissolved oxygen depletion in the lake depths. Some types of boating are permitted, but humans and pets must stay out of the water. Contents 1 Park usage 2 Flora and fauna 3 External links 4 References Park usage Park officials estimate that roughly 60% of park visitors will visit the pond, primarily the tea-house at the southern end, at some point in their stay. The pond is ringed by a walking trail, from which branch off trails to or over several other park features. One of the park's original carriage trails runs along a ridge adjoining the pond. The Jordan family of Seal Harbor, for whom the pond is named, built a farmhouse near the pond. In the 1870s a restaurant known as the Jordan Pond House was built. Under the management of the McIntires, which ran from 1895 to 1946, the restaurant became a regular location for high society events. John D. Rockefeller, Jr. purchased the restaurant and gave it to the National Park Service. The original building was destroyed by fire in June 1979, and a new building built through private fund raising. The Jordan Pond House has a gift shop and a restaurant serving lunch and dinner; it is perhaps best known for its service of tea and popovers both on the enclosed veranda and outdoors on the lawn overlooking Jordan Pond. Flora and fauna Jordan Pond was for a period the type locality for the type specimen for the quillwort species described by Alvah Augustus Eaton and formerly known as Isoetes macrospora var. heterospora or Isoetes heterospora. It was then thought to be located only in this pond. This is now considered to be a synonym for Isoetes lacustris, which is found in both North America and Europe. Four other quillwort species are also found in the lake, along with three species of pondweed, two species each of rushes, bur-reeds, and carnivorous bladderworts, and at least six other species of plants. Fish species in the lake include landlocked Atlantic salmon, lake trout, brook trout, rainbow smelt, four species of minnow, banded killifish, three-spined stickleback, pumpkinseed sunfish, and the American eel. The landlocked salmon, lake trout, smelt, sticklebacks, and at least one species of minnow are known to have been introduced and/or stocked by humans
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best digital camera under 150
Igloo Quick and Cool Cooler (150-Quart, White)
Sometimes you need to keep things cool for the duration, and when most coolers will warm up, Quick and Cool will keep going for days. Seven days, to be specific, is how long ice will last, even at temperatures up to 90 degrees Fahrenheit. THAT, is insulation. This is enabled by Ultratherm insulated body and UV inhibitors in lid to guard against sun damage. Reinforced handles can handle being banged around, and threaded plug allows for easy drainage or hose hookup. Throw this beast anywhere in car, and know that it's safe with a snap-close lid and convenient tie-down loops. And when you aren't in the process of grabbing yourself a refreshing, cool beverage, use it as a seat. This is the ideal cooler for the long-haul.