How To Beat Speed Camera : Ip Camera List.
Smile for the Speed Camera: Photo Radar Exposed!
The first book to expose photo radar and reveal the flaws in the system. More than a how-to book, it tells readers when to ignore a photo radar ticket, what lawyers know about photo radar, what a trigger speed is and why it matters, how to beat photo radar, how privacy and liberty are effected by photographic traffic enforcement and more.88% (12)
Readers will learn how cities get drivers to pay unfair tickets, why giving up liberty never guarantees safety, why "Speed Kills" is more myth than fact and why every politican should read this book.
The book explores the laws and practices of photo radar, shows readers how to prepare a photo radar case, and provides resources to learn more about the subject.
The book includes copies of photo radar tickets, photographs of photo radar equipment, charts of state laws, and a sample court script.
Mamiya C330S w/Diana plastic lenses
I'be been wanting to try to make a hybrid TLR that has toy camera lenses, in this case, two lenses from Diana clones. The Mamiya is the easy choice because of the interchangeable lens panels. I happened to have a beat-up 80/2.8s that I deconstructed, unscrewing the front and back elements and removing the aperture from the shutter assembly. Amazingly, the plastic lens assembly could be roughly screwed into the shutter (see bottom lens). The shutter assembly only worked on 2 speeds: about 1/100th and bulb, which was just fine for these purposes. Now for the viewing lens. The one real challenge was getting the viewing lens on the same plane as the taking lens. Searching in my various parts, I had the plastic outer lens shell from a Polaroid camera, and it was just the right size for the Mamiya lens board, and the plastic lens also screwed into the plastic polaroid shell almost smoothly - eureka! Even the auto-cocking feature of the C330S worked! Now, I was all excited to try it, except for finding out one big flaw: the lenses are too far from the film plane to get into regular focus. On Diana clones, the film is about 3/4 inch closer than on the Mamiya. So, while this setup works, I need to find a way to move the lenses back about 3/4th of an inch. i don't see a way to do it without getting rid of the shutter assembly, which would be a bummer. But anyway, I'm pleased with how this experiment turned out, I just need to solve one more design issue. UPDATE #1: I've removed the shutter and now mounted the two Diana lenses so that they are essentially flush with the Mamiya lens plate. Works now -- have infinity focus. Viewer a little soft, but still usable. Next issue is to see how I can stop-down the taking lens a bit so sharpness improves in the center. UPDATE #2: Stopping down to somewhere like f8 improves things a lot, as can be seen in the viewfinder. I'll make some exchangeable aperture discs out some black plastic that can be affixed to the back element, and away we go.waiting for a super express.
looking at old photos like this one I realize how noisy just a gen old cameras were. this is ISO1600 and at the time , it was about as good as it got as for APS-C. now, almost all APS-C bodies with more resolution beat it hands down. I am now debating if getting an expensive camera over 3k like D3s still worth it? Sensor tech gets better and better just in a matter of a couple of months and after shooting the K5 for about a couple of months , I dont think I will ever want to go back to the D3 or 1D territory. yeah , the D3s is alot tougher than my K5 or my D700 but I dont think I want to stay with the same body for any longer than a couple of years , so for me extreme build or AF is not worth anything. And taking all DOF and FOV difference of these 2 different camera systems into consideration , in real life in real low light as long equalizing the DOF , there is no FF high ISO advantage at all , if I'd needed to get this same DOF here with my D700 , I would have had to stop down my 24-120f4VR 2 stops more than this f5.6 and so needed ISO6400 at least to get the same or identical DOF to this one. So, imo , unless super thin DOF is always accepted or you want all your photos look that way, or you need fast shutter speed at the cost of some DOF , there is no more FF low ISO advantage , in fact ,if deep DOF almost everything in focus kind of shooting is your style , there is no point shooting FF in low light, in fact , I would go even futher to say the K5 the D7000 ,etc do perform a bit better in low light as long as some deep DOF is wanted. but when fastest shutter speed in a gym or shallowest DOF possible is needed , FF still has the edge over the APS-C. so, horses for courses always.
You're preparing your favorite recipe and you need the perfect speed at the exact moment - MiTutto's different speed options give you just the right power in the palm of your hands. Its turbo function integrates advanced technology with beautiful design. MiTutto converts into an easy-to-use tool made from the best materials that really make it a true pro. MiTutto's compact design, in beautiful colors, decorates your kitchen. Grip, whirl, and tilt your MiTutto confidently with its ergonomic slip-free handle. Say good-bye to tears in your kitchen. This stick blender is equipped with an enclosed chopping attachment that dices onions in seconds. Chop garlic, tomatoes, spices and vegetables with ease leaving odors and messes behind. The included whisk quickly turns it into a handy hand mixer. The MiTutto can also be used in pots and pans without scratching. Amaze your friends and family with the smoothies and shakes you blend in seconds. Practical and effective in the kitchen and in the bar. Great for meal-replacement protein shakes, health supplements, weight loss shakes and more in an instant.Related topics:
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