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Ccd Camera Scientific


ccd camera scientific
    ccd camera
  • Short for "charge-coupled device." A CCD is a light-sensitive electronic detector widely used in making astronomical images. Sensitive over a wide range of wavelengths, and much more efficient than emulsion in gathering light, CCDs are often used to image extremely faint objects.
  • A charge-coupled device (CCD) is a device for the movement of electrical charge, usually from within the device to an area where the charge can be manipulated, for example conversion into a digital value. This is achieved by "shifting" the signals between stages within the device one at a time.
  • A Charge Coupled Device, or CCD camera, converts light into electrical charges. This type of camera is used often in astrophotography.
    scientific
  • Based on or characterized by the methods and principles of science
  • Science (from the Latin scientia, meaning "knowledge") is, in its broadest sense, any systematic knowledge that is capable of resulting in a correct prediction (i.e. falsifiability in Karl Popper's sense) or reliable outcome.
  • Relating to or used in science
  • of or relating to the practice of science; "scientific journals"
  • Systematic; methodical
  • conforming with the principles or methods used in science; "a scientific approach"
ccd camera scientific - Ample Scientific
Ample Scientific TCC-3.3ICE-N 3.3 MP Digital Microscope CCD Camera With Image Capturing And Processing Software
Ample Scientific TCC-3.3ICE-N 3.3 MP Digital Microscope CCD Camera With Image Capturing And Processing Software
The TCC-3.3-ICE-N with Peltier cooled system was designed for optimal imaging for fluorescence microscopy and other low-light environments. This unit is Peltier cooled to -30 degrees below ambient, allowing the camera to produce images with low noise even at long exposures. The unit is 3.3 mega pixels (2080H x 1546V) in resolution, and has a maximum refresh rate at 5 frames/sec for 2080x1536, or 30 frames/sec for 640x480. The unit features silver aluminum case with integrated fan that operates quietly with separate AC source. Camera itself is powered by USB. Research grade CCD Chip is 1/1.8 in in size, and is manufactured by Sony. Product is packaged in heavy duty aluminum case, fully padded to provide security during transportation. Standard intuitive image capturing/processing program in installation CD.

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Canon SD700 IS @ ISO 400 vs Fujifilm F30 @ ISO 800
Canon SD700 IS @ ISO 400 vs Fujifilm F30 @ ISO 800
(Project 365 Day 84) So I had a Canon SD700 IS, and I just got a Fujifilm F30, based on reviews about its low light, high ISO performance. Here's a comparison. (You probably want to click All Sizes to get the 1024 pixels wide version, though it's still not full-resolution because I haven't paid for a pro account. :P) Now, if you compare these two cameras at the same ISO, the Fuji blows the Canon out of the water in terms of noise, every time. So I decided instead to compare the Fuji at ISO 800 to the Canon at ISO 400. I think that's actually more fair. Here's what I've found (all subjective and non-scientific opinions): - The Fuji @ 800 still has less noise than Canon @ 400. - The Fuji @ 1600, btw, has slightly more noise than the Canon @ 800. (But both are very noisy at those settings.) - The Canon's noise is pretty evenly distributed, while the Fuji's noise is more spotty, which can be more annoying, but really only if you're zoomed in at 100%. - The Canon's image stabilization does a better job than I thought. It was still a bit harder to get a sharp picture with no motion blur on the Fuji @ 800 than the Canon @ 400, so this comparison is more fair than it might seem. - However, keep in mind that image stabilization is useless if it's the subject that's moving, and not the photographer, so the Fuji will have an edge with moving subjects because of the higher ISO. That's harder to test in a relatively controlled way, though. So basically, the Fuji and the Canon are really quite similar, except that the Fuji should be better at capturing moving subjects. So now I feel a little torn, because the other thing I noticed is that the Canon FEELS much nicer in your hand, and the UI is much slicker. Despite the fact that the Fuji has a class-leading CCD sensor, it looks and feels a bit cheap, but only a little. That said, although I was comparing the Fuji to the Canon at ISO 400, I've often found myself using my Canon at ISO 800 to capture moving action at night, and so I think the Fuji is ultimately worthwhile, because it should be able to take much nicer pictures in that situation. I think I'd recommend the Fuji if you take low light pictures with motion, and I'd recommend the Canon otherwise. P.S.: I won't tell you which picture is taken by which camera above, but if you take a careful look and think about it for a moment, I'm sure you can figure it out. ;) P.P.S.: I should also mention that the F30 is currently about a hundred bucks cheaper than the SD700 IS, so it's certainly the better deal in that regard!
Solar eclipse / Zonsverduistering / january 2011 / PacMan 'art' :)
Solar eclipse / Zonsverduistering / january 2011 / PacMan 'art' :)
Dinsdag / Tuesday - 4 januari 2011 - 10:07 > 10:15 uur [EN] Argh, I completely forgot the eclipse today. Someone reminded me like around 10 in the morning! [The story continues in English below...] [NL] Ik zit met m'n neus in m'n mailbox als de halve wereld zich vergaapt aan een zonsverduistering. Lees verder (in het Engels - if you like)... [EN] What to do? [Total panic] The first thing I did was looking for a decent camera, the best I could get my hands on at that moment was a Nikon D40. First try (left image): I thought I could try and make a picture at 1/4000, but that was not enough. It got me a nifty upside down eclipse though for some scientific reason - lens reflections - boring stuff. Second try (center image): Someone handed over a welding helmet (lashelm) so I tried that. It gave me some sort of greenish eclipse thingie. At least you could see what was actually happening since 8:48 this morning (only!), tsk, tsk. Third try (right image): I remembered seeing all these people peeping through compact discs during eclipses the last couple of years. So I checked my local collection for some sort of transparant disc (not easy) to shoot through it. Tried that. One disc was simply not enough, I almost got 'welding eyes' (lasogen) and a burned CCD. After smashing a compact disc to pieces ("Dark Side of the Moon" by Pink Floyd - an utter coincidence*, I can tell you, hehe) and - careful! - placing three fragments on top of each other I could take the third installment of this (almost) total eclipse failure. Oh well, you live, you learn. *About smashing DSOTM. This is a joke. I'd never do that. I would have done it to Pink Floyd's 'Animals' or (even better) 'The Final Cut', though. Eat that Roger Waters! ;)

ccd camera scientific
ccd camera scientific
Ample Scientific SMZ10-T 1:10 Zoom Ratio, 0.75X-7.5X, WF10X/20 mm Eyepiece Trinocular Zoom Stereo Microscope
SMZ10 Series stereo microscope is designed for high quality three dimensional viewing of variety of specimens. Standard 10X wide field objective (20mm) with 1:10 Zoom ratio achieves 0.75X-7.5X zoom range and range of magnification of 1.9X-375X; magnification can be adjusted without effort with dials on the side of microscope head. Trinocular port and standard CCD/CMOS 0.5X adaptor allows microscope camera to be installed with ease; viewing mode can be easily with Binocular/Trinocular view switch on the back of the microscope. 45 degrees inclined head, adjustable interpupilary (between the eyes) distance (50-75mm), and standard eye guards make observation comfortable and allows user operate longer without tiring out their eyes. Diopter adjustment on the both eyepiece-tube provides sharper resolution by allowing user to finely adjust focus according to eye sight. Working distance is 95mm. Durable and sturdy guided rail stand secures microscope head in place, focus knob can be adjusted with one or both hands. Unit comes with SMZ7 microscope, 2 eye guards, 0.5X CCD/COMS adaptor, and dust cover. Can be paired with Ample Scientific LED or fluorescent ring light, or put on boom stand for additional flexibility in work space (each sold separately).

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