How To Paint Canopy

how to paint canopy
    how to
  • Practical advice on a particular subject; that gives advice or instruction on a particular topic
  • A how-to or a how to is an informal, often short, description of how to accomplish some specific task. A how-to is usually meant to help non-experts, may leave out details that are only important to experts, and may also be greatly simplified from an overall discussion of the topic.
  • (How To’s) Multi-Speed Animations
  • Providing detailed and practical advice
  • the transparent covering of an aircraft cockpit
  • the umbrellalike part of a parachute that fills with air
  • Cover or provide with a canopy
  • cover with a canopy
  • Cosmetic makeup
  • make a painting; "he painted all day in the garden"; "He painted a painting of the garden"
  • A colored substance that is spread over a surface and dries to leave a thin decorative or protective coating
  • An act of covering something with paint
  • a substance used as a coating to protect or decorate a surface (especially a mixture of pigment suspended in a liquid); dries to form a hard coating; "artists use `paint' and `pigment' interchangeably"
  • apply paint to; coat with paint; "We painted the rooms yellow"
how to paint canopy - ShelterLogic 10x20
ShelterLogic 10x20 1-3/8" 8-Leg Canopy with Extension Kit (White)
ShelterLogic 10x20 1-3/8" 8-Leg Canopy with Extension Kit (White)
The ShelterLogic Max AP Series Canopies feature a heavy duty 1 3/8" all steel frame that is bonded with a DuPont thermoset baked on powder-coated finish which prevents chipping, peeling, rust and corrosion. The polyethylene cover is a triple layer, chemically heat bonded, enhanced weave with ripstop and is 100% waterproof. It is UV treated inside and out with added fade blockers, anti-aging, anti-fungal agents. Includes: One piece fitted full valance cover, Bungee cords, Foot plates, Temporary spike anchors, and Extension Kit.

Offering maximum versatility, this ShelterLogic Max AP 2-in-1 package can be used as a storage canopy or expanded event tent. The fully expanded event tent goes up or down in minutes with bungees cord fasteners and expansion pole kit. The 8-leg, 1-3/8-inch frame is constructed of all steel and it's finished with a Dupont powder coating to prevent chipping, peeling, rust and corrosion, and it offers four-point height adjustments. Set up is quick and easy with the built-in slip together swedged tubing, and wide foot plates on every leg ensure easy access to secure anchor points. The Twist Tite tensioning squares up the frame and tightens down the cover.
The fully valanced polyethylene cover is 100 percent waterproof with advanced engineered, triple-layer and rip stop construction. And it's been UV-treated inside and out with added fade blockers, anti-aging, antifungal agents so it will withstand the elements for years to come. Its 50+ UPF (Ultraviolet Protection Factor) rating blocks more than 98 percent of UV harmful rays.
What's in the Box
This package includes a 10 x 20-foot canopy, 1-piece polyethylene fitted cover, two 7 x 20-foot side panels, extension poles (with ropes and anchors), temporary spike anchors, foot plates, bungee cords, and easy-to-follow step-by-step instructions.

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1:72 [Inspired by] The Sky Crawlers - Stockum Air Force "Fafnir Ausf. B" turboprop fighter (kitbashing/scratch-built)
1:72 [Inspired by] The Sky Crawlers - Stockum Air Force "Fafnir Ausf. B" turboprop fighter (kitbashing/scratch-built)
How it came to be: This model was initially inspired by a "what if" illustration of a Westland Wyvern in Russian markings (which looked disturbingly realistic...). I have always been fascinated by this brutal construction on the thin line between the prop and jet age, and building one had been a vague plan for a long time. But instead trying to get my hands on a Trumpeter Wyvern in 1:72 I thought: well, if I was going "what if", then I could also build the plane from scratch. While browsing sources and older Hobby Japan issues, I came across the Sanka and Skyly fighters from Bandai - and things fell together. Why not build a fighter in the post-WWII look of "The Sky Crawlers"? The construction: The kit was constructed as a kitbashing, with some scratch elements added. Design benchmark was the Westland Wyvern, but the Skyly J2 also had some influence, as well as various turboprop prototype of the US Navy, esp. the Ryan "Darkshark". What went into this model: North American F-86 Sabre (1:72, Hobby Boss): - Fuselage - Cockpit interior - Canopy Vought F4U-5 Corsair (1:72; Revell): - Wings - Landing gear & wheels - Antennae Mitsubishi A6M Zero (1:72 , Hasegawa) - Engine cowl Gloster Meteor NF.11 (1:72, Xtrakit/Matchbox): - Vertical fin & horizontal stabilizers Other smaller donations:( - McDonnell Douglas F-18A Hornet (1:72, Italieri): Turboprop spinners (= drop tank halves) - Martin B-26 Marauder (1x Matchbox, 1x Airfix): Propeller blades - McDonnell Douglas F-4 Phantom (1:72, Matchbox): RAF reconnaissance pod - Grumman F9 Panther: underwing hardpoints - Kamov Ka-34 "Hokum" (1:72, ESCI): jet exhaust bulges - WWII pilot figure from an unknown Airfix kit Building the thing went pretty straightforward. F-86 hull and the Mitsubishi Zero engine cowl were glued together and four coats of NC putty melted the into one. Only a small slit between fuselage and propeller was left open as an air intake for the turboprop engine. The Corsair wings were taken right out fo the box and could be merged with only minor modifications. On the upper side of the wing/body intersection, bulges for the jet exhaust pipes were added on the fuselage flanks (they were intended to end behind the wings' trailing edge), they consist of parts of the engine pods of a Kamov Ka-34 "Hokum" kit from ESCI. Later, the fuselage was drilled open at their ends and sunk exhaust funnels added - simple polystyrene pipes of 6mm diameter. A similar pipe was vertically fitted into the fuselage at the plane's CG, for in-flight display (photography purposes). The cruciform tail comes from an Xtrakit Gloster Meteor NF.11. Originally I planned just to replace the Sabre tail with the complete Meteor tail cone, but the latter turned out to be too slim! As an emergency remedy, I only used the the Meteor's fin and cut away the original jet exhaust of the Sabre - replacing it with a new, fatter tail cone which was built with parts from an RAF F-4 reconnaissance pod from a Matchbox kit (and lots of putty, though). The result is a rather massive tail which reminds of a Mitsubishi Zero's shape, but overall the lines blend well. The contraprops were built from scratch, and for photography purposes I built tweo specimen: one with propeller blades for static display, and the other one with two clear plastic discs, as if the propellers were running full speed. The base for both is a drop tank from an Italieri F-18 Hornet kit. For the static contraprop, this base was even cut in two and an axis fitted - the propeller is actually fully functional! Its propeller blades come from B-26 Marauder kits and were fitted with reversed pitches, so that the contra-rotating construction would be realistic. Inside of the fuselage, a plastic pipe was used as an adapter for both propellers, making the easily interchangeable. Even though weapon hardpoints were added, the remained empty - even though my construction looks rather like an attack plane, I wanted to keep a clean air-to-air look and leave a clear view onto the very good Corsair landing gear. The latter was taken 1.1 from the donation kit, just the rear wheel was modified (w/o arresting hook) and a respective compartment cut out of the tail cone. Livery and markings: Another subject which was rather difficult. With "whif" planes, you easily end up with prominent markings and camouflage schemes - many such kits bear a Luft'46 look. While this would have been a nice option, I also considered Russian markings (on a pure Aluminum livery or a simple green/light blue cammo scheme). Even painting the whole thing dark blue and adding some white stars would have been a plausible option. But for a special twist, I wanted to "catch" the retro but subtly colourful spirit of The Sky Crawlers, avoiding a retro-Luftwaffe look. First idea was something that would have looked like an USAF Mustang in late WWII
Port side pilot's and nose compartment detailed in paint.
Port side pilot's and nose compartment detailed in paint.
Here's my right-out-of-the-box Monogram Mosquito- while I was painting it- no added parts or shaping but plenty of detail painting. This isn't done- or crisp- there are a lot of color blobs here which got neatened-up after this, and the red for the fire extinguisher is WRONG- should be aged copper color, like a penny. Metalic brown-orange-red. For bright colors I find it easiest to lay down white, then the color, then the bland surrounding stuff, exactly opposite how oil-painters start with the dark stuff and end with white. By colors, left to right, you can easily see the RED: fire extinguisher, intercom control box button, red fore-aft trim wheel (should be black I now think), red push-button on the gray radio control box, red label on same, red text on placards, red color rings on the flare cartridges BLACK: Some of the cables under the canopy, edge, fore and aft trim wheel trim, hub,, fore and aft trim indicator, engine control box and knobs, ventilator, Landing gear, flap and other warning placards., oxygen economizer. Later I painted buttons on radio box and the 'other' label on it black. YELLOW: Propeller control handles, (right most pair, closest to pilot's leg) engine control box friction knob(s), Yellow rings on yellow color flare cartridges WHITE / OFFWHITE : Cable bundles at canopy edge, Knob / labels on intercom box, Dial on fore-aft trim indicator, Landing gear, flap and other warning placards , Label on Oxygen Economizer, white ring on white color flare cartridges. TAN: A few of the cables at the canopy edge, some of the cables on the ceiling of the bomb-aimer's compartment LIGHT GRAY: Radio switch box, fire extinguisher clip DARK GRAY: Valve/nozzle on fire extinguisher (pure speculation on my part) Intercom control box (above the fore-aft trim wheel) Still to be applied: BUFF/CARDBOARD flare carboard tubes BRASS flare base OFFWHITE bungee cord retainer for each rack of 4 flares DARK GRAY outlines of flare cartidges and shelf COULDA-SHOULDA_WOULDA WHITE or INTERIOR GREEN for control rods from throttle box to engine controls on front spar DARK GRAY w/ LIGHT GRAY spiral: Oxygen hose from Economizer to pilot's mask. ALUMINUM/BLACK Silica gel air drier cartridge- like a large thermos, just to left of the bomb-aimer's compartment window WHITE and/or BLACK hoses for dry air system between layers of glass in the canopy. WHITE tubing for glycol external deicing system From left to right, you can see a fire extinguisher (horizontal, red), elevator trim wheel (red circle with black circle inside) Elevator trim indicator, placard, throttle and propeller control, radio push button control box. Cold air vent, Ahead of the instrument panel are the Oxygen Economizedr (black rectangle) and the begingings of two racks (8 total) of Very pistol flares. IMG_6036

how to paint canopy