Following the big-C_rework_SOP_rc2, this is how I applied the fix.

I used 31swg tinned copperwire (I meant to use 35swg but I picked up the wrong spool. The thinner 35swg would be better. I will post a picture of the tools I used later. The important ones were a weller esd FE50M with a 0.4mm tip (PTS7), a long arm binocular viewer (like this http://url.ie/1deq). I used 32swg 62S solder and some future 315 flux (the msds states it is 98% propan-2-ol or IPA in old terms, with activators). To desolder I used 1.5mm braid (dipped in flux).(edit 090405) Also to remove a solder bridge I carefully cut the solder away with a scalpel -thanks to DocScrutinizer on irc for this tip)

I photographed the work through the binocular viewer (low powered 10x microscope).

The smallest 100μF cap I could find was http://url.ie/1dev (though now I see a 4V one which I hadn't before http://url.ie/1dew).

I probed R4303 and found it was 2k2Ω

I cut a piece of wire and bent it to be as short as possible, bearing in mind it was the wrong thickness it could likely be made shorter.

 I then cut it to fit ( I dropped the wire more than once so if the piece of wire changes in the next pictures that is why)

 

You will notice a missing capacitor C4303 that is because I bridged it with C4304 and ran the iron between the two to remove the bridge. This action accidentally removed C4303 and damaged it, I had to buy a replacement. A 0.4mm tip might seem like a small size but when dealing with form factor 0402 (1x0.5x0.25)mm it can be a little awkward (especially if you have a shaky hand). 

I decided to solder the wire to C4304 first and then place the 100μF cap on. This worked OK without melting the solder on C4304 when soldering on the 100μF cap.

 

Next I placed the 100μF cap and marked where I should scratch off the paint on the motherboard. On these tant caps the +'ve side (anode) has the line, as per the datasheet (see above link*)

 
 


I tinned the pads on the cap, though I'm not sure if this is necesary, I'd recommend only a little.

 

I soldered the anode first, this meant I wouldn't have to adjust the wire link.  

 

 The above joint was ok but from above it doesn't look like it has made contact, below I tidied it up. And replaced C4303. I desoldered the pads on the motherboard before replacing it

 

The case fits. So far I've had no complaints about the buzz, but my voice is very low on calls. :( Though I can't be sure it wasn't before, I know there are posts on this topic so I will read them next

 I can put this on the wiki as a link if it helps. Use any part of it as you wish.

The photos are here sequential from C1 to C12 http://anyotherkey.googlepages.com/c1.jpg