Oil filter bypass - Clearwater pool filter.

Oil Filter Bypass

oil filter bypass
    oil filter
  • a filter that removes impurities from the oil used to lubricate an internal-combustion engine
  • An oil filter is a filter to remove contaminants from engine oil, transmission oil, lubricating oil, or hydraulic oil. Oil filters are used in many different types of hydraulic machinery.
  • A cartridge-filled canister placed in an engines lubricating system to strain dirt and abrasive materials out of the oil.
  • avoid something unpleasant or laborious; "You cannot bypass these rules!"
  • beltway: a highway that encircles an urban area so that traffic does not have to pass through the center
  • a surgically created shunt (usually around a damaged part)
  • Go past or around
  • Provide (a town) with a route diverting traffic from its center
  • Avoid or circumvent (an obstacle or problem)
oil filter bypass - Mobil 1
Mobil 1 M1-108 Extended Performance Oil Filter, Pack of 2
Mobil 1 M1-108 Extended Performance Oil Filter, Pack of 2
With the rising cost of fuel, parts and labor, it’s no wonder today’s driver is looking for ways to extend vehicle service intervals. Fortunately, you can offer a solution to help your customer minimize the risk of extended oil drains without compromising vehicle performan and protect your bottom line at the same time. The Mobil 1 Extended Performance (M1EP) filter line’s proprietary design traps and holds more dirt than the leading brand. The offering now includes both spin-on and cartridge oil filters, providing over 97 percent Vehicles in Operation (VIO) coverage. M1EP filters can be used with any motor oil. To obtain the ultimate protection for your engine - use Mobil 1 Oil Filters with Mobil 1 or Mobil 1 Extended Performance motor oils.

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Porsche 911 GT1 engine subsystems cartoon
Porsche 911 GT1 engine subsystems cartoon
All in colored pencil over the original black and white. Left to right, top to bottom: B L U E : is air, dark blue is compressed air. B R O W N : is oil. From heads to turbos and back, from breather to the big tank. A separate oil system cools and filters the transmission oil. Filter is under the final drive for the left side axle. R E D : is combustion exhaust - hot air, steam, little bit of hydrocarbons and NOx.Drives the turbos and is released out the exhaust pipes.If there's too much, the waste gates, mostly not shown in this view, let the extra bypass the turbo and go right out the exhaust. O R A N G E : is fuel.There are two fuel inputs here, one for each back of cylinders, and they join at the end. Fuel comes in and goes to a separate filter on each bank, then to the rail that supplies the injectors on that side. At the end of the rail is a pressure relief valve, regulating fuel pressure by continually letting some flow out, but only some. Output of the pressure relief valves join at a "T" block at the back of the engine, next to the big breather hose, A single return line goes back on the left side of the engine and leads all the way back to the tank. G R E E N : is cooling water, conducted through pipes. This is the top of the engine, where the hot water leaves for its trip up to the radiator. Cooled water comes back and enters the bottom of the engine, to take up head from the exhaust half of the head first. P U R P L E : Brake line. I'd expected to see the usual teflon hose / braided stainless steel wire jacket deal, but all my pictures show is black rubber, with hard lines running up the frame tubes and stopping about where the back of the frame ends. Soft tubes are tie-wrapped onto the suspension where shown. I can't see any other brake lines- no parking brake for example. So no mechanical cable... G O L D E N B R O W N : Oil vapor- big pipe from the oil tank back to the catch box, in case something overflows. There's a separate, smaller, hose from the breather on the transmission back to the catch box, and a hose from the header space at the top of the catch box leading back to dump whatever out on the track once the box is full. Y E L L O W : Bowden cable (like bicycle brakes) that operates the adjustable anti-roll bar. Its actually bright yellow and has a little aluminum tube and handle and knob business at the back end that sets it in one of 4 positions. The other end, on one side or the other, twists the anti-roll bark connection, which is either vertical like | and very stiff, or horizontal like -- and not very stiff. Just like changing diameters without having to unbolt anything! There's a B L U E hose connecting a nipple at the back to the air-jack behind the transmission (has its own tube) and leading up to the two jacks in the front. There's also a pair of G R E E N hoses that are clear vinyl and thus almost certainly carry water from somewhere... condensation from the intercooler??
new-radiator 0850
new-radiator 0850
Day 10 – Almost there! I decided it would be silly to start this engine with such nasty, dirty oil in it, so I did an oil and filter change. I only drained out 3 quarts anyway – barely showed on the dippy stick… I used Motorcraft 15-40 diesel oil since it has higher levels of ZDDP, and I also used the Motorcraft filter that wally world always sells at a decent price. Afterwards, I disconnected the coil and did a compression test with the engine cold. Cylinder 1 - 130 PSI Cylinder 2 - 143 PSI Cylinder 3 - 155 PSI Cylinder 4 - 150 PSI --How do these look?? My close neighbor next door came over wondering why I could not get it going, and I happily told him I was just doing compression checks. He said if it ran first try, he would make a toast with me! Now the above results are interesting… Back in 1995 with 95K miles, I measured the following with the engine warm to the touch: Cylinder 1 - 127 PSI Cylinder 2 - 133 PSI Cylinder 3 - 143 PSI Cylinder 4 - 140 PSI Does it measure better when cold?? Anyway, after 154K miles the engine will not be getting torn down in the near future. The spark plugs were torqued down and connected using new Motorcraft wires and separators. Getting them nice and neat was a little challenging. Test run!! Before filling the cooling system, I wanted to see if the car would even start and run. I plugged the open vacuum lines, gave a shot of carb cleaner into the carb, closed the choke and gave a short burst on the key… KA-VAROOM!!!!!!!!!!!!! Hit the pedal and the idle speed dropped. It ran a tad rough, but it idled okay. I ran it about a minute and shut it down since there was no alternator or coolant yet. It was warm, but not hot. My neighbor brought over a beer and gave me a “good job!” toast! The accessory belt was installed, as well as the hard heater lines, securing them with their little clips to the valve cover. I decided to bypass the heater core, as I no longer trust the 32 year old hoses. I cannot replace them without pulling the heater box, so that work will be done in the fall when I work on the interior some. I did secure the old hoses and plugged them well to keep bugs out. Day 11 - New radiator arrives!! So what is a $160 last-one-in-stock radiator made of?? Well, on the good side, it turned out to be brass and copper. On the ugly side, it is the same exact make and model of the piece of junk I had in there now – a ready-rad. The last one was put in around 2001 and started leaking 2 years after. I’ll just have to see how this one does I guess…

oil filter bypass
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