Laminate flooring stapler. Wood floor alternatives.
Bostitch LHF2025K Engineered Hardwood Flooring Stapler
Includes 20-Gauge Laminated Flooring Stapler - LHF2025K, Carrying Case, No-Mar Tips, Installation Block77% (5)
For use with engineered hardwood and laminate flooring, the Bostitch LHF2025K 20-Gauge Engineered Hardwood Flooring Stapler features tool-free, adjustable knobs to match the size of your flooring material. Non-marring tips prevent accidental damage, and easy-sight tongue engagement helps you hit the pocket with every staple. And because it's designed for comfort, the Bostitch LHF2025K lets you work all day with minimum fatigue.
20-Gauge Flooring Stapler
At a Glance:
Designed for use with engineered hardwood and laminate flooring
Easy-sight tongue engagement for correct installation
No-mar tips prevent floor scratches or damage
Adjust between 1/4 inch and 1/2 inch
Includes carrying case, no-mar tips, staples, and installation block
Seven-year limited warranty
Overmolded rubber grip maximizes comfort and minimizes fatigue. View larger.
Adjustable knobs allow for tool-free adjustment. View larger.
Easy-Sight Tongue Guide, No-Mar Cap, and Oil-Free Operation
The Bostitch LHF2025K makes it easy for you to correctly install engineered and laminate flooring. An easy-sight tongue guide helps you accurately drive staples into the pocket--every time. Additionally, a non-marring cap ensures you won't scratch or mark your flooring material, and oil-free operation means you won't damage or stain your floor with accidental oil spills.
Designed for Comfort and Safety
At an easy-to-handle 2.9 pounds, the Bostitch LHF2025K can be used for long periods of time with minimum operator fatigue. The over-molded rubber grip offers increased comfort for all-day projects, and the quiet rear exhaust prevents blowback in your face. Additionally, a swivel air fitting keeps the stapler right where you want it, so you can move freely without getting tangled in the compressor hose.
Easily Adjusts to Your Flooring Size
Designed to work with almost any flooring size, the Bostitch LHF2025K features adjustable knobs for fastening flooring of varying thicknesses. Adjust between 1/4 inch and 1/2 inch for engineered hardwood and laminate flooring applications.
The Bostitch LHF2025K takes 20-gauge, 1-inch staples. A magazine capacity of 125 staples keeps you in operation for longer periods of time--and reloading is fast and easy. A real workhorse, this stapler has a driving power of 122 inch/pounds.
The Bostitch LHF2025K is backed by a manufacturer's seven-year limited warranty.
What's in the Box
Bostitch LHF2025K 20-Gauge Engineered Hardwood Flooring Stapler, carrying case, two spare no-mar tips, 1,000 staples, and installation block.
A simple set of stairs can be done with laminate flooring for $30 in labor per step, if the material is as wide as the riser, there's no padding on the flooring material to remove, and the staircase itself just goes straight up and down. But here is a picture of some steps I did that cost up to $50 each just for labor -- it took more than an hour and a half to do some of these steps. Here's a list of all the components of the labor charge. Some, like removing the carpet, are always necessary, most are not: 1) Removing the carpet on the staircase takes over an hour all by itself. There are easily more staples and tack strips in the tops (treads) and fronts (risers) of a 15-step staircase than there are in the biggest room in the house. 2) If the tread extends beyond the front of the riser, that has to be cut off and be made fairly smooth. Stairnoses won't cover that extension -- they're designed to cover the top 1/8" of the riser (which is in fact the top 1/8" of the cut-off tread) and that's all. 3) In most homes built here after about 2000, they spray the "texture" on the walls like they're putting out a fire. It's all over the treads and the risers, but the carpet covers it up. But after the carpet and tack strips come off, I have to scrape that texture off the steps because that's a horribly uneven and possibly even dangerously unstable surface to try to glue to. And that's by hand with my little molding chisel -- no air-powered chiseling on the wood! 4) The flooring material can come with attached padding, which has to be removed. And sometimes it doesn't come off easily. 5) This was 5" wide material, which means I had to piece it together to get the width I need for both the treads and the risers. You can see by the bevels where one row ends and the next one begins. The only break I ever get is that 7 1/2" wide material is usually wide enough to use for a riser. 6) The length issue is a different matter. I can either just use 36" of a 45" board and throw away two half-square-foot pieces on each simple step (at $3/SF here that adds up, and it's more than that on the wide steps), or I can piece them together which costs a little less in labor. 7) The triangle-shaped steps like the one at the top left of this picture require some diagonal cutting, which takes extra time. Note that the six angled steps in this picture are nearly half of the 14 steps in the staircase. 8) The steps in the bottom left and right corners here not only require diagonal cutting, but some extra care to get the double-angle cut at the corner correct. Again, it's some work to make sure I don't waste a lot of material. 9) In this particular case, the stairnose itself for the step in the bottom left corner needed to fit right into the bannister in the middle. You only get one chance at that to get it right, and stairnoses are fifteen bucks per step. 10) If you're dealing with a second-tier supplier like Lumber Liquidators, you might have 12 mm thick flooring material and stairnoses designed for 8 mm thick flooring. (LL claims that that's the industry standard, but that's eye-rollingly false -- which is the sole reason I now call them a second-tier supplier.) That means some carpentry work to "shim" those short stairnoses so they match the height of the flooring material. 11) Lots and lots of trips to the saw. When I'm going through a living room, it's one trip for three or four boards. Here it's at least one trip for every single board. And of course the further along I go on the staircase, the further it is to the saw. 12) They have to be glued down. It's not like doing the rest of the floor where you click it together and you're done. 13) Finally, caulking at all the cut edges along the walls if you insist (not done here). It doesn't "blend in" like it does on a baseboard / wall, so there's more tidy-up work then usual there. That's easily an hour right there.TDS-tungsten
The guys (my husband and sons) were working hard on the bedroom floor to prepare it for laminate flooring. They were working with one tungsten light bulb until Mom came in and ::gasp:: opened the curtains! But before opening the curtains I took a tungsten shot of the staple remover just for my TDS photo. TDS - "Tungsten light can often create a warming effect, depending on your white balance. Use tungsten light in a photo today."
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