Changing a road bike tube. 24 road bikes.
Changing A Road Bike Tube
- (Road biking) Road cycling is the most widespread form of cycling. It takes place primarily on paved surfaces. It includes recreational, racing, and utility cycling.
- A bike with narrow tires best suited for paved roads. Usually noted by drop style bars.
- A bicycle that is suitable for use on ordinary roads, as opposed to a mountain bike
- A motorcycle that meets the legal requirements for use on ordinary roads
- A road bicycle is similar to a racing bicycle. However, road bikes are built more for endurance and less for fast bursts of speed, which is desired in a racing bicycle. They usually have more gear combinations and fewer hi-tech racing features.
- Make or become a different substance entirely; transform
- Alter in terms of
- marked by continuous change or effective action
- cause to change; make different; cause a transformation; "The advent of the automobile may have altered the growth pattern of the city"; "The discussion has changed my thinking about the issue"
- Make or become different
- (change) an event that occurs when something passes from one state or phase to another; "the change was intended to increase sales"; "this storm is certainly a change for the worse"; "the neighborhood had undergone few modifications since his last visit years ago"
- Material in such a cylindrical form; tubing
- provide with a tube or insert a tube into
- convey in a tube; "inside Paris, they used to tube mail"
- A long, hollow cylinder of metal, plastic, glass, etc., for holding or transporting something, chiefly liquids or gases
- The inner tube of a bicycle tire
- conduit consisting of a long hollow object (usually cylindrical) used to hold and conduct objects or liquids or gases
changing a road bike tube - iBike Dash
iBike Dash CC Cycling Computer for iPhone 3G/3GS/4 and iPod Touch
To say the iBike Dash Cycling Computer is just another bike computer is like saying that the iPhone is just another cell phone. The revolutionary iBike Dash CC makes use of the full computer functionality of your iPhone 3G/3GS/4 or iPod Touch to deliver a truly amazing cycling dashboard at your fingertips -a virtual co-pilot, navigator, and black box all in one. The "smart" Phone Booth case houses patented electronics that interact with your iPhone or iPod Touch to send cycling signals to the iBike app. Through the iBike app that information is translated into an astounding display that completely reinvents the cycling experience. All of the elements working together to transform your iPhone or iPod Touch into the iBike Dash CC -- the most amazing cycling meter you've ever experienced. Click here to learn more about the technology. Created to be easy, intuitive and fun, the iBike Dash CC is remarkably simple to set up. Advances in electronics have done away with the need for calibration and there are no more instruction manuals needed! Easy-to-follow, on-screen directions walk you through the set up process screen by screen. New iBike Dash CC steer tube mounting system simplifies setup and makes Phone Booth mounting secure and removal easy. You'll be ready to ride in no time! You choose the information you want to see and how you want to see it. The customizable iBike Dash CC display allows you to combine numbers, maps, graphs, and colors to personalize your iBike Dash CC screens so you can track: Speed and Odometer, Temperature, Trip Distance and Time, Total hours and distance logged. iBike Dash CC utilizes ANT+ wireless technology and sensors to provide seamless collection of your ride data, including speed and distance -with no strings attached. Already own an ANT+ sensor? The iBike Dash CC can read that too!
Single Speed Franken Bike Project
What should I do with this bike? This is an odd bicyle, and for some reason I like it quite a bit, but can't figure out what to do with it. I scooped this bike up on Craigslist about 5 years ago for practically nothing, from a kid who needed to sell it by noon that day to mak his rent. When I bought it, I was need of a dependable commuter that was crappy enough to stay locked up around NYC without getting stolen. I rode it around for a couple of weeks, while I tried to figure out what components I should change and what mods it needed to serve that purpose. I was in the process of moving, so I stored it 'temporarily' in the garage of house my Mom owns, but rents out. Through a very bizarre series of occurences (lost garage keys, uncoperative tenants, broken garage door, getting the bike from nowhere New Jersey to South Brooklyn) it was trapped in the garage for the last 4 years. I just got it back this weekend. Now that have the bke back, I'm still not sure what I should do with it. I'm still leaning towards making it into a winter commuter that I can beat the tar out of, get covered in road salt and lock up on the streets of Brooklyn without worrying too much about it. Any suggestions, O' Great People of the Internet? I don't have any major need for this bike (I have way too many as it is...), so I'd like to try something fun and creative. Here's the rundown. Frame: Not sure exactly. It's Cro-Moly steel accoridng to the one sticker on the downtube, and has braze ons for disc brakes, shifters and brake cables on the top tube and two sets of bottle mounts. There are mounts for a fender/rack in the rear as well. Fork: Old style suspension fork. The kid I got it from said it was a late 90's Rock Shox (No stickers or marking, so who knows). Seems to do it thing well enough. Stem: Ritchey, and way too long for the setup of the bike. Makes the suspension fork compress way too often. Bars: Azonic MTB bars with a nice rise. Pretty comfy. Cranks: Race Face North Shore SX with a single 46T ring. Wheels: Mavic 517 XS rims laced to SunTour hubs, 36 spoke, with an ACS 17T freewheel. Nice ratio, eh? Brakes: Avid Speed Dial 5 levers with Shimano XTR Calipers. The bike came set up a single speed, with a Singlenator (sort of a like a deraileur, without the shifting chanism, designed to keep the chain taut on single speed bikes that have front facing drop outs). The singelnator doesn't work too well. That's the strange set of components that I'm working with on this Frankenbike. As an aside, this is actually a fairlly fun bike to ride because it's set up so strangely, although it's twitchy and the balance is way off.
GT and NJS
The GT seat tube is surprisingly slack for a triathalon bike. The newest generation are breaching 78 degrees. Even though these bikes are set up very similarly, I find the riding of them very different. The long GT cranks are a big factor. My knees hurt a bit after riding, I probably need shorter cranks for my femur length. I also notice the stem length differences in the handling, climbing out of saddle, and fast descents feel unstable (when riding with a 60 mm stem). The light weight 650 wheels accelerate quickly. The GT is aluminum and I really feel it. The new CF fork helps, but I still feel a lot of road texture. Non cotton bar tape and fatter tires would help too. The rear end is like a solid block, I feel very little flex. Probably from the short stays, and beefy aero tubes. The steel Bridgestone feels good, strong but slightly supple drive train. I wonder how much an external BB would affect that. I like climbing with this bike. The bullhorns have great hand position, and the 105 stem length has perfect leverage. GT Vengeance Tri Bike TT: 59 cm Stem: 9.5 - I get pretty stretched out. Might change this to save my hands. ST: 51.3 cm HT: 74.4° ST: 73.5° BB spindle height: ~27.3 Fork rake: 35 650c wheels Chainstay length: 37 cm Min wheel base: 98" Bull horn drop = 4.1 cm Bar width= 41.5 cm Bridgestone Track frame TT: 55.25 cm Stem: 10.5 cm ST: 54.5 cm HT: 74.4° ST: 74.4° BB spindle height: ~28cm min. wheel-base possible: 98" Bull horn drop = 8.9 cm Bar width= 41.5 cm all tubes measured center to center.