The website that is. Not the project. I decided to do an Electric Vehicle (EV) conversion while looking at a forum www.mtfca.com related to my other hobby- Model Ts. Someone had converted a Model T to use as an ice cream truck in there business. This piqued my interest in building an EV and since my commute to work is only 2 miles I figured I was a perfect candidate to drive an EV. It also had to be practical so converting a Model T was out (plus I do not appreciate history being destroyed). I scoured the web for ideas for my conversion and was inspired by Ohmer a ZX2 that was converted by Patrick Roth. He did a great job detailing his conversion on his website.
The search for a donor car was on and it was a toss up between a Ford Escort ZX2 and a Ford Focus Sedan. Ultimately the Focus won out when I found one with a blown engine for $600.00. This was in November of 2010 and after trailering it home the search for parts and the removal of unnecessary parts began. In this blog I will detail the items I think will be of value to others that may want to take on such a project. Less emphasis will be placed on the removal of existing components.
I wanted to do the conversion as inexpensively as possible while making sure it was reliable. Once I purchased the car my search for the items needed for my conversion began in earnest.
In it's simplest form 5 major items are needed for an EV.
They are:
The electric motor
A transmission
Batteries (lots of them)
A controller (which basically controls the speed of the motor)
A method of charging the batteries
I will detail my decisions on each of these in other entries.
Finding the motor was one of the first tasks I set out on. During my research I found that electric motors designed specifically for EV conversions are available, but are quite pricey. I also came across many conversions that used the drive motor from an electric forklift. I decided I would try the forklift motor route and if that proved to be unsuccessful I would purchase a motor designed for this application. I scoured eBay and Craigslist for motors without success. Then I realized that calling a local forklift repair business may lead me to a motor. At work we have a small walk behind forklift and I found out it was serviced by Mac's Service in Detroit. I called them and spoke with Brett Karas and explained to him what I was trying to do. He found a motor from a Yale forklift that fit my needs (A series wound motor 9 inches in diameter). This was in January 2011 two months after purchasing the donor car.
Here it is! Needs some cleaning up.
For my conversion I decide to go the "clutchless" route. I should mention that I chose the car I did because it had a 5-speed manual transmission. While not impossible to convert an automatic, it would require additional work primarily because an automatic transmission needs fluid constantly under pressure. This is normally provided by the gas engine via the torque converter hub, but with an electric motor there would be no pressure at a stoplight.
From everything I have read you typically only use 2nd and 3rd gears (as well as reverse) when using an electric motor. I also learned that it is possible to shift without the clutch since the electric motor does not have to idle and it has less inertial mass than a gas engine. I decided to couple the motor to the input shaft of the transmission directly (Hence the term "Clutchless").
After creating a cardboard template of the motor and it's output shaft I decided that if I cut the output shaft of the motor and the input shaft of the transaxle I could mate them together with a 1/2 aluminum plate separating them. But now I had to figure out how to connect the output shaft to the input shaft. The drive motor output shaft is splined and came with a large gear on one end . I considered having a splined coupler machined that would connect the two shafts together. This sounded expensive and I was also concerned if there was any runout of the shafts it may lead to a vibration. I then looked into using a LoveJoy connector. These are commonly used for PTOs and in industrial applications to couple two shafts. I found some posts lamenting failed LoveJoys so scrapped that idea. Then I had one of those "aha" moments. If I could weld the gear from the electric motor to the original clutch disc I would still have the benefit of the dampening springs and the play that is found in the center of the clutch disc. The play would allow for a small amount of misalignment between the shafts. Not that I plan on having any :).
(maybe I could use dowel pins to hold the alignment)
Below are pictures of the process of creating my coupler.
The gear and clutch hub (I removed the clutch friction material)
Grinding down the gear in preparation for welding.
The gear placed on the clutch hub.
To insure there was minimal runout (making sure the gear is centered) I clamped them together and mounted them to the motor shaft. A dial indicator was used to insure the runout was less than .005".
Clamped together on shaft 1
Clamped together on shaft 2
Measuring runout
Measuring runout (another view)
The controller is the device that controls the motor speed based on the position of your accelerator pedal (formerly known as a gas pedal). In simple terms the more you push on the throttle the more power it gives to the motor. Controllers can be quite expensive and since I wanted to do this project to enhance my skills I thought building one might be a good idea. During my research I came across an open source project "The Open Revolt Cougar Controller" I decided I could build one and 4 months and a few hundred dollars later I now have a working controller. Thanks to all on the forum and especially Paul Holmes who sells the PC boards on his site. Tonight I tested the controller to drive the original cooling fans from the Focus. It worked!!!!