TYPES OF KITCHEN EQUIPMENT : KITCHEN EQUIPMENT

TYPES OF KITCHEN EQUIPMENT : YORK FITNESS EQUIPMENT NZ.

Types Of Kitchen Equipment


types of kitchen equipment
    equipment
  • an instrumentality needed for an undertaking or to perform a service
  • A tool is a device that can be used to produce or achieve something, but that is not consumed in the process. Colloquially a tool can also be a procedure or process used for a specific purpose.
  • The act of equipping, or the state of being equipped, as for a voyage or expedition; Whatever is used in equipping; necessaries for an expedition or voyage; the collective designation for the articles comprising an outfit; equipage; as, a railroad equipment (locomotives, cars, etc.
  • The necessary items for a particular purpose
  • The process of supplying someone or something with such necessary items
  • Mental resources
    types of
  • Representative Index
    kitchen
  • A kitchen is a room or part of a room used for cooking and food preparation.
  • Cuisine
  • A room or area where food is prepared and cooked
  • A set of fixtures, cabinets, and appliances that are sold together and installed in such a room or area
  • a room equipped for preparing meals
  • The Custard Factory is an arts and media production centre in Birmingham, England .

C-41 home development
C-41 home development
This is the way I do it, not necessarily the best way – but it works for me. I use the Tetenal Colortec C-41 set; mix the chemicals to the specifications provided in the set you use and adapt the following to suit your needs (if, for instance, your C-41 set uses separate bleach and fix). Oh, by the way: the image above has lots of notes, so make sure to check them out if you're interested too. I set up all my equipment as you see it, using the kitchen sink. I load the film the way I usually do (I'll not get into that now, but 500 ml chemicals will submerge one 120/220 roll or two 135 rolls). 1. Fill the kitchen sink with water approx. 42-45 degrees C. Place the bottles on the bottom. Leave them be for approx. five minutes (this will warm the chemicals to the same temperature as the waterbath surrounding it). 2. Hold the Paterson tank in the waterbath while you wait so as to warm it up a bit, making sure no water enters the tank of course. You don't want cold plastic to cool of the chemicals too rapidly once you get going. 3. Watch the thermometer and prepare to start the process when it reaches 39 degrees C (ideal temperature is 38,5 degrees C for C-41 – at least the Tetenal I use – but there is half a degree latitude and the extra half degree makes no earthly difference.) 4. Once the thermometer hits 38,5–39 degrees C, start pouring the developer into the tank at the same time as you start your timer. It might take you fifteen seconds to pour all the developer in, but never mind that – this time is included in the overall time for development. 5. Developer stays in for 3 minutes and 15 seconds. Inverse the tank immediately four times and repeat this every 30 seconds, and do by all means submerge the tank in the water while you're resting your wrists – it'll help keep the temperature even. 6. At 3 minutes and 10 seconds, drain the developer into the measuring jug marked for the purpose (you will reuse the chemicals for at least 8 rolls, so it's sound financial advice to take good care of the chemicals: as soon as you can, use the funnel to pour them back into the bottles and seal them up again). 7. Pour the bleach fix into the tank. From now on the temperature is not as important; the bleach fix has greater latitude and you don't have to keep this at 38,5 degrees C – anywhere between 30 and 39 will do (I usually remove the bleach fix and stabilizer bottles from the waterbath as soon as I've started developing and just place them to one side; it gives me more room to manouver when I inverse the tank). 8. Inverse the tank every 30 seconds for 4 minutes (if you're on the combined timer, you should do this until it hits 7 minutes and 15 seconds). 9. Drain the bleach fix into the measuring jug marked for the purpose. Don't inhale. It's quite a foul smell and obviously not healthy. 10. Place the tank below the faucet and start the water rinse – fill the tank with running water (approx. 20 degrees C, anywhere around there will do just fine) and empty it every 30 seconds or so. Continue doing this for 3 minutes, until the combined timer reaches 10 minutes and 15 seconds (don't worry if you rinse for longer than that, but three minutes should do it). 11. Pour the stabilizer into the tank. Don't inverse – I find that this makes for more foam, which is difficult to get rid of and leaves bad stains on your negatives that shows up in scans. Just splosh the liquid around for a minute or so, making sure that the film is submerged (which it should be, as you're using the prescribed 500 ml solution for one roll of 120/220 film or two rolls of 135 film). Let it interact with the film for approx. a minute. 12. Drain the stabilizer into the measuring jug marked for the purpose. This chemical is very foul indeed, and quite possibly toxic – note to self: get a face mask and avoid the fumes. 13. Remove the screw-on pouring-top of the tank (if you have a Paterson tank, you know the part I mean) and plonk it in the sink for later rinsing. 14. Remove yourself with the tank and the film still on the loading reel to wherever you plan on hanging the film to dry. 15. Take your gloves off and remove the film from the reel. Don't worry about the foam you see (but make sure to wash your hands straight away after), and hang the film the way you normally would hang a film to dry. 16. Go back to the kitchen and rinse all your gear straight away. Put away the glass bottles with the chemicals for reuse at a later date. 17. Once you're done in the kitchen cleaning up, go back to where your film is hanging. Notice any stains on the slowly drying film? Weird splotches of a liquid type? This is the stabilizer. Here is where it gets a bit tricky, and the following is probably not the best way to deal with it. But these stains will not dry off completely, and unless you like the negatives this way I have only found one way to deal with the problem. I spray tapwater on the hanging negatives – gently, and not much – so that the stain
Ambassador Bodine's "Kitchen" - Republican Palace - Baghdad - 14 May 2003
Ambassador Bodine's "Kitchen" - Republican Palace - Baghdad - 14 May 2003
The Major convinces Ambassador Bodine to allow us to use a small kitchen area for our office. The Ambassador and her staff were using it for storage of their supplies and gear. This is a big improvement, as we can lock the door. The Major, with the help of General Strock (A Corps of Engineers 2-Star General), convinced the other Corps of Engineers team to part with several of their laptops for our use. Most of their team was leaving for home and the plan, at least the plan that our team was told, was to leave this type of equipment for the next team. The Corps of Engineers has an affinity for the slogan “One team, One Fight”. Our reality was somewhat different than the slogan. We are having some difficulty getting additional mission assignments. The Major has been pushing the issue but without success. She says our capabilities are not fully appreciated, yet. The only time I met Ambassador Bodine was when she came into our kitchen-office looking for some of her gear. One of her staff had just been in and couldn’t find what they were looking for. I was surprised to see the Ambassador herself and shocked when she accused me of taking something. I said, “No Ma’am. We boxed up everything of yours and put it up in the cabinets”. I started opening them up for her and she calmed down. I was sure that the item she wanted had previously been moved to her office and I said so. She abruptly left, without comment. I learned later that the toilet in her office had overflowed the night before. (She had the only “working” facility that I knew of in our wing of the Palace. We had a 5-minute walk to the latrine-trailer out in back.) Her folks came running down our way for help. Several members of the other Corps team was in our office and told her staff, “It’s not my job”. We didn’t miss those guys when they left. In a story published in the New York Times on May 11, 2003, ("Trying to Rebuild Iraq, While Watching Their Backs") Peter Maass, a contributing writer for the New York Times magazine noted how one evening outside his hotel in Baghdad he heard a commotion when two Humvees, two SUV's and one armored Mercedes pulled up with Ambassador Barbara K. Bodine. She was arriving at the hotel for dinner! She required all of those vehicles with GI's and plain clothes security, all armed to the teeth. They heard gunfire in the neighborhood and they all crouched down. No one went to investigate. No, they weren't there to protect the Iraqi's. They were there to protect Ambassador Bodine while she had a dinner on the town. I wondered why we never saw her in the chow hall with us.

types of kitchen equipment
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