REMOVING GLUE FROM HARDWOOD FLOORS : REMOVING GLUE FROM

Removing Glue From Hardwood Floors : Loft Flooring Chipboard : The 13th Floor

Removing Glue From Hardwood Floors


removing glue from hardwood floors
    hardwood floors
  • Engineered, pre-finished, click and laminate.
  • (Hardwood flooring) Wood flooring is any product manufactured from timber that is designed for use as flooring, either structural or aesthetic. Bamboo flooring is often considered a wood floor, although it is made from a grass (bamboo) rather than a timber.
  • (Hardwood Flooring) Hardwood flooring: classic or contemporary, The choice is yours with a wide range of traditonal and exotic woods from around the world. Which hardwoods are right for your home?Janka Hardness Scale?
    removing
  • Take (something) away or off from the position occupied
  • (removal) the act of removing; "he had surgery for the removal of a malignancy"
  • remove something concrete, as by lifting, pushing, or taking off, or remove something abstract; "remove a threat"; "remove a wrapper"; "Remove the dirty dishes from the table"; "take the gun from your pocket"; "This machine withdraws heat from the environment"
  • (removal) dismissal from office
  • Take off (clothing)
  • Change one's home or place of residence by moving to (another place)
    glue
  • join or attach with or as if with glue; "paste the sign on the wall"; "cut and paste the sentence in the text"
  • An adhesive substance used for sticking objects or materials together
  • cement consisting of a sticky substance that is used as an adhesive
  • be fixed as if by glue; "His eyes were glued on her"

Putter Shaft Jig
Putter Shaft Jig
THE JURY IS OUT ON THIS. I DON'T BELIEVE THAT IT DOES WHAT I WANT. STAY TUNED. Installation of double bend putter shafts can drive you crazy. I made a quick and dirty jig in about 10 minutes with some scraps I had around. It has worked quite well. I got the idea from the Spring 2004 TWGT newsletter which unfortunately is not online. The key nugget of information was "The secret to proper alignment of the DB shaft ... is to rotate the shaft in the hosel bore until the plane of the FACE is parallel to the plane of the long, straight section of the shaft." If the long section of shaft is NOT parallel to the face, then the head will not sit square when the head is in its playing position. It will want to open or close relative to the target line. In theory the shaft will properly fit into the head one way and one way only. However, if there is slop between the shaft and the bore you can get things wrong. This also gives you some leeway to adjust lie angle and/or offset. What you need to do is to: 1. get the short section of the shaft that inserts into the head at 90* to the head (assumes putter heads with a 90* bore angle), 2. position the head such it is properly positioned relative to the center of the main section of the shaft, and 3. ensure that the sole of the head is flat, so that it will remain square to the target line. To accomplish this I created a "wall", to clamp the putter shaft to, and a "floor", to rest the head on. The "wall" is a piece of shelving 3/4" thick by 8" x 36" (a wider piece of shelving would allow for both right and left handed putters) The "floor" is a piece of hardwood 1 1/4" thick by 4 1/2" x 2 1/2" The "wall" has series of vertical shaft alignment lines marked on it. The "floor" is attached to the "wall" about 3 inches up from the bottom to allow the "wall" to be clamped in a vise. TO USE: * put the jig in a vise, and adjust until the "floor" is level by using a bubble level * put the putter shaft against the "wall", with the head resting on the "floor", * if you have tightly fitting shaft and head just rotate the shaft until the sole is flat on the "floor" and the clubface is parallel to the wall. You are ready to clamp the shaft down. The shaft will only fit one way. * if you have some slop between the shaft and bore: - ensure the short section of the shaft that goes into the head is 90* to head by using vertical marks on the "wall" - rotate the shaft until the clubface is parallel to the "wall" and the amount of offset and lie angle are what you desire. - put an appropriately sized drill bit between the clubface and the wall to ensure the clubface stays parallel to the shaft centerline. - ensure that the head is level and soled on the "floor", may need to shim, so that proper LOFT and LIE are preserved, * use a mini Quick Grip to hold the shaft stationary until the epoxy cures, * double check that the short section of the shaft is vertical, * the head may need to be taped in place to maintain its position. ADJUSTING LIE ANGLE: To preserve the proper relationship between the clubface and the shaft centerline lie angle adjustments should be done by bending the shaft. This is from a Bill Totten Golfsmith tip: Many putters employ double-bend shafts. Often the lie or loft needs adjusting. Many clubmakers just don’t feel comfortable bending the shaft, which happens to be the only method to alter either specification. Actually, bending a shaft is a very easy thing to do. What makes it simple is ample opportunity to practice the technique. Use an old steel shaft and a source of heat, preferably a propane torch. Place the shaft in a vice and move the torch back and forth along the surface in a three-inch area. The faster the flame moves, the less chance there is for blemishing the steel shaft. After a minute, remove the heat source and gently pull on the shaft. The shaft should bend slightly. Remember, a couple degrees of bend is not much. Make sure to cool the shaft with water after the bending is finished. By the way, it is always a good idea to wear gloves for this clubmaking procedure. FACE BALANCING: (From Dave Tutelman) [NOTE: There is an interaction between lie angle and face balancing. You might want to adjust for most of the lie angle before face balancing, with a possibility of tweaking it before final glue up] If you have a 90* bore putter that you want to face balance: * Choose a shaft with an offset that you like. It has nothing to do with the face balance. * Align it so the vertical plane containing the long straight section of the shaft is perpendicular to the target line (just like above). Otherwise, you've set up for an open or shut face. * Trim the tip (effectively moving the bend down, which effectively
Condition of apt 951c after moveout 100108
Condition of apt 951c after moveout 100108
Remove carpet in the large bedroom (16x12), 3 closets, and large hallway. (5 photos taken on 10/1/08) Cut carpet, remove carpet padding, carpet tack strips, all staples, nails, and all glue. RIDER PAGE 3 (#51) OF YOUR LEASE: Decorating. Tenant shall not apply wallpaper to walls, ceilings and cabinets in the apartment, and shall not apply any paints to any part of the apartment which shall deviate from the standard colors furnished by the Landlord. The Tenant may not do any painting or wallpapering in the demised premises without first obtaining the Landlord’s written consent. The Tenant shall not install tiles on hardwood floors, or any substance that will damage floors.

removing glue from hardwood floors
See also:










Comments