Countersink Drill Bit Set. Beaver Drill And Tool.
TEKTON 7289 Countersink Drill Bit Set, 22-Piece
MIT 22-PC. DRILL BIT WITH COUNTERSINK SET features: Hardened and Tempered M-2 High Speed Steel Drill Bits, Polished, Single Twist Design Efficiently Ejects Debris for a Cleaner Hole, Each Drill Bit Includes a Black Oxide Finished Adjustable Stop Collar and Countersink, Stop Collars Offer Precise Control of Drill Bit Penetration Depth, Countersinks Enable Screws to Fit Flush with Surface for a Professional Finish, Hex Key Wrench Adjusts Stop Collar and Countersink, 7-pc. Stop Collars: 1/8", 9/64", 5/32", 11/64", 3/16", 13/64", 7/32", 7-pc. Countersinks: 1/8", 9/64", 5/32", 11/64", 3/16", 13/64", 7/32", 7-pc. Drill Bit: 1/8", 9/64", 5/32", 11/64", 3/16", 13/64", 7/32", 1-pc. Hex Key Wrench, Complete with Snap-in Butterfly Index Case83% (13)
Subtle as a Dump Truck
The new rig is about as subtle as a dump truck. There's this whole stack of mechanics with a tiny camera dangling from the end. But hey, it works GREAT! In the process of making this modification, I also replaced the gearbox on my pan axis with the higher end gearbox offered by Brooks. The pan axis is a 4:1, and the HoVer is a 1:1. Some modifications were required on the utility frame and on the gear guide for the HoVer axis to get good mesh on the gears. I wound up using a mill, but it's nothing a nibbler and a file wouldn't have done an equally good job on. (The nibbler I use belongs to work, and I modified my rig at home. Hey, I've got the mill! I just don't own a nibbler. :( ) Despite the bulky appearance, it still packs pretty small in the bag, and the weight really hasn't gone up that much. I was surprised. The one custom part in this setup is the little aluminum hub that attaches the HoVer axis to the camera frame. It's a near duplicate of the gear hubs that ship with the deluxe gear sets from Brooxes. The only difference is that I didn't want a loose set screw to cost me my camera, so that hub is threaded #8-32. It screws onto the shaft, then locks using a set screw. Even if the set screw comes loose, the hub can't slip off. A much simpler way to do this would be to order another hub with a smaller bore size (I think you can get the same hub with a 1/8" bore), and enlarge and thread the central hole. To attach it to the camera bracket (the remains of my old tilt frame, once I chopped off the ears), I just drilled out the same hole pattern as the hub and countersunk them to get the screws flat to the back of the frame. #4-40 flat head socket screws finished it off. In case anyone is curious, after sawing off the tilt frame ears, it was a straightforward matter to mill those edges clean. The same thing could be done with a nibbler and file.MCE entertainment shelf unit under construction
The shelves are easy to assemble. You may be able to see how each piece is notched so the center horizontal board notches/locks into the 6 vertical boards. The top and bottom are held on with drywall screws which are countersunk flush. TIP: If you want to put screws into MDF wood, you MUST pre-drill each and EVERY hole or the MDF will split like plaster. Then you would need to fix it with wood filler putty. Also, be careful not to overtighten screws in MDF. If you do, the screws strip quite easily. Another tip about MDF is the stinky smell. So paint or seal it with at least three coats of paint. Note how the back (rightside) is set back a little bit? That feature leaves room for the cords to run between video components so they're not smashed against the wall.
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