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Please review this single pitch feedback form. We will discuss it at the next lecture. The goal of this feedback form is to provide you and us with an assessment of where you are at with the safety critical skills needed to participate in multipitch climbing. The expectation is that by the end of single pitch weekend you have demonstrated a minimum level of proficiency (mostly 3's and no 1's on Sunday's assessment) in order to participate in multipitch weekend and earn the ICS rock badge. You will be right on track if most of your scores after Saturday are 2's and most of your scores after Sunday are 3's with no 1's. Don't forget you can practice parts of these skills at home to get more comfortable with them before single pitch weekend.
Typical single-pitch scenario: Two climbers want to climb a single pitch route, then move on to a different route. One climber will lead the route, the other will top-rope it.
Green Climber: Leader
Blue Climber: Follower
Leader leads the pitch, reaches an anchor at the top, and is lowered back to the ground. The climbers switch roles and the former leader belays the follower on the route. The follower climbs the pitch, removing gear as they go (if necessary). The follower converts to lower, removes the team's anchor equipment, and is lowered back to the ground.
Required Equipment
Rope: Usually 60m, sometimes 70m (check route description)
Protection
Sport: Quickdraws - 10-15 (check route description)
Trad: Gear and draws (check route description)
Anchor material
Personal Gear: Helmet, harness, belay device, locking carabiner
Essentials: Food, water, sun protection, layers, etc.
Anchors for Single Pitch Climbing
Note: Do not top rope on the fixed anchors. Use personal gear in order to reduce wear on the lowering hardware.
Two Quickdraws
Locker Draws
Equalized Cord
Quad
All of the anchors shown above are acceptable for single pitch following and top-roping. Consider using a more secure anchor, such as those utilizing a cordalette and lockers, for scenarios when there will be many laps on the anchor, and at anchors where the rock could interfere with safe quickdraw operation.
Descent Anchors (Fixed Gear)
Mussy Hooks
Rappel/Lowering Rings
Chains
Lowering vs. Rappelling
“Belay miscommunication and error at the top of single-pitch routes is one of the leading causes of climbing accidents and fatalities.” (AAJ, ANAC)
Lowering: Faster, safer, climber stays on belay. Requires appropriate hardware at anchor (all hardware shown above can be used to lower).
Rappelling: Works in any situation, can reduce wear on anchor components in some situations.
Cleaning an anchor by Lowering
Big Picture: Stay on belay, always maintain safe connection to climbing rope.
Attach to anchor
2. Pass bight of rope through ring(s)
3. Connect bight to belay loop with locker
4. Weight test new system, then remove tie-in knot
5. Clean team's anchor gear and lower
Cleaning an anchor by Rappelling
Big Picture: Safely change systems, always maintain control of rope.
Connect to anchor, go off belay
2. Secure rope to prevent dropping
3. Remove tie-in knot
4. Thread rope through to middle
5. Attach rappel device and test
Much more information can be found at the American Alpine Club: Cleaning an Anchor in Single Pitch Climbing (optional assignment)
This video summarizes the main points.
Converting to Lower with small chain links.
This video shows one way to do this while using the existing anchor to remain reduntantly connected while threading the rope through the chain links. If you opt for tying a Fig. 8 on a bight as demonstrated, please remember to make sure the tail end of the knot is sufficiently long!
Stick Clips
A stick clip is a long pole with special attachment that allows clipping first bolt from the base of the route. This prevents the risk of a ground fall if the leader falls off the route before clipping the first bolt. Collapsible models exist, or use a painter's pole. Stick clips can be rented from some climbing shops, especially in destination climbing areas. Stick clipping is common at Smith Rock, due to high first bolts and challenging climbing off the ground.
Crag Ethics
Respect closures: Many crags are closed for portions of the year to protect bird nesting, vegetation, or due to sensitive environmental issues. Be aware of closures and respect them.
Leave No Trace Principles: Follow basic LNT ethics. Dispose of all trash, pack out human waste, tread lightly, respect wildlife. https://lnt.org/why/7-principles/
Respect Other Users: Be considerate of other area users, climbers and non-climbers alike.
Route Difficulty Ratings and Styles
Difficulty Rating: In the US this is generally the "Yosemite Decimal System" (YDS). Starts at 5.0, currently ends at 5.15. Many climbing areas forego the lowest ratings (5.0-5.5) because they can be difficult to distinguish.
Protection: G/PG (good), R (inadequte, falls may result in serious injury), X (falls may result in death)
Route Style:
Top-rope (TR): anchor can be set up from the top without climbing the route
Sport: Requires leading, but only uses quickdraws
Trad: Requires traditional protection (cams, nuts, etc.)
Climbing Style: Slab, Face, Chimney, Crack
Rock Types: Granite (Index), Basalt (Frenchman Coulee), Tuff (Smith Rock), Sandstone (Red Rock Canyon), Limestone (Rifle)
Route Topo Example
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