Rock Protection and Anchors

What is Rock Protection?

Rock protection provides a connection between the climbing rope and the rock. The main focus of this concept in ICS is building and assessing anchors for top-rope climbing, multi-pitch climbing, and rappelling. Rock protection is also used during lead climbing.

Generally, rock protection is designed to hold the forces of a falling climber. However, because it is possible for protection to fail, multiple pieces are used together in a system to increase safety to the climber or team through redundancy.

All types of rock protection require strong rock as the basis for their own strength. Before trusting any piece of protection, first consider whether the rock to which it is attached is trustworthy. Check that the feature is part of the main rock structure and that it will not move or crumble if loaded.

Fixed Protection

Bolts

Bolts are metal hardware anchors placed into holes which are drilled into the rock. They have a bolt or screw and a "hanger", which has a hole for clipping a quickdraw or carabiner. Newer bolts use an expansion screw to ensure a strong and secure attachment to the rock. A single well-placed bolt should be more than strong enough to hold any forces seen in rock climbing, but unexpected bolt failure is possible, so relying on a single bolt in critical applications is not recommended.

Inspecting Bolts

Modern high quality bolts are made of stainless steel and use at least a 3/8" screw. If a bolt or hanger is rusted, the screw is small diameter, or the bolt has a substantially different design, it should be treated with suspicion and avoided if possible.

It is possible that even newer bolts could loosen or become compromised over time. In general, it is acceptable if the bolt hanger is able to swivel somewhat, but a bolt that can move (wiggle or spin) in its hole should not be trusted. It may be possible to retighten a loose bolt using a wrench or other tool and improve its security.

Glue-in Bolts

A notable variation of the climbing bolt is the glue-in bolt. These bolts are made of thick stainless steel wire and cemented into holes in the rock using a high-strength adhesive. Glue-in bolts that are not rusted, damaged, or movable can generally be trusted the same as mechanical bolts.

Pitons

Pitons are made of steel or iron and hammered into cracks. Fixed pitons may be found on certain older and/or alpine routes. A well-placed piton can provide adequate strength for climbing, though they are not as strong as a quality bolt.

Inspecting Pitons

Pitons may become compromised over time due to use, weathering, or movement of the underlying rock. They should be inspected for excessive rust and checked with a firm pull test before being relied upon.

Traditional Protection

**Note: In ICS, the main use of trad gear will be for building anchors. Many of the articles in this section discuss placement of traditional protection ("trad gear") as it is used in lead climbing. Lead climbing is not the focus of ICS. However, the concepts discussed below of how to assess rock and place gear correctly are still relevant for our needs.

Nuts

Please read this article:

Climbing Nuts and Stoppers - Learn How To Place Trad Gear - VDiffNuts are an essential for every trad climber. This article explains everything about using climbing nuts: placing, racking and removing them.

Overview - Nuts

Pros

Lightweight
Inexpensive
Simple/Intuitive
Wide range of size/shape

Cons

Don’t work in parallel cracks
One directional
Can be lifted out of cracks by rope movement
Can get stuck

Cams

Please read this article:

Cams - How To Use Climbing Cams - Learn To Trad Climb - VDiff ClimbingLearn how to place climbing cams. This article explains the physics of how climbing cams work, and also how to place, remove and rack them.

Overview - Cams

Pros

Great for parallel cracks where nuts do not work
Fast placement
Resist pulling out if side-loaded

Cons

Expensive
Heavy
Rope movement can “walk” them deeper
Can get stuck if over-cammed

Slings

Please read this article:

Climbing Slings - Placing Trad Gear - Trad Climbing Skills - VDiff ClimbingClimbing slings are simply strongly-sewn loops of nylon or dyneema tape. This article explains how to use slings for protection, how to rack them and more.

Overview - Slings

Pros

Very inexpensive
Very lightweight
Primary option for rock horns, "chickenheads" and trees
Useful to "extend" other protection

Cons

Rarely possible to protect a route with slings alone

Optional: read these articles about less fundamental, but still useful types of traditional protection.

Tricams: https://www.vdiffclimbing.com/tricams/

Hexes: https://www.vdiffclimbing.com/hexes/

Anchors

What is an Anchor?

An anchor can be any device or method for attaching a climber, a rope, or a load onto a climbing surface
This can be accomplished using a large natural feature (boulder or tree), or
Individual pieces of protection can be linked together to create an anchor
Typically used at the start and/or end of each pitch

Rigging Materials

“Cordelette” - 7-8mm nylon accessory cord
- About 20 ft. is good for rigging most 3 point anchors. Shorter (13-14’) is better for a “quad”.
- Tie into loop with double fisherman knot or rack untied
Sewn runners
Carabiners (locking or non-locking)

Anchor Rigging

There are many possible ways to rig an anchor, but for simplicity we'll focus primarily on two of the most common options.

Cordelette Anchor

Basic rigging for 2-4 pieces of gear

Quad Anchor

Self-adjusting anchor for two bolts

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