Multi-Pitch Climbing

Multi-pitch climbing is a technique for climbing routes that are longer than a rope length. The climbing team establishes one or more intermediate anchors, at which the leader stops and brings the rest of the team up. Multi-pitch climbing techniques can be used in any terrain (rock, snow, ice, or a combination thereof).

Mechanics of Multi-Pitch

Green Climber: Leader

Blue Climber: Follower

Leader leads the pitch, reaches an anchor at the top, and goes off belay. The follower is belayed from the top and follows the pitch, removing all of the gear along the way. When both climbers are at the top anchor, they perform a "transition" where they prepare the gear and rope for leading the next pitch.

Multi-Pitch Lead Climbing Strategies

After both climbers reach an anchor, either climber could lead the next pitch.

Swinging/Swapping Leads

The follower who just arrived leads the next pitch. They already have all of the gear that they cleaned from the route, so they just need whatever remaining gear the previous leader still has on their harness. The rope is already stacked so that their end is on top.

Benefits:

Both partners get to lead regularly
Belay transitions can be fast

Block Leading

The previous lead climber leads again. They should be well-rested since they were just belaying. They take the gear back from the follower who just arrived while the follower flips or re-flakes the rope.

Benefits:

Shorter periods of inactivity
Leader can lock into “lead mindset”
Follower gets to rest before climbing the next pitch
Stronger climber can do the leading

Teams may choose to use one of these strategies for an entire climb or use different strategies at specific transitions so that each climber leads the pitches they prefer.

Multi-Pitch Communication

Verbal Communication System
- Limit communication to minimum commands only
- Only yell specific requests for an action: "Off Belay!" "Belay On!" "Take!"

Simple Nonverbal System
- Belay out the whole rope if necessary
- When rope comes tight, you’re either on belay or you’re simul-climbing
- Never take partner off belay unless you are certain they requested it
Rope Pull Communication - Not Recommended
- Works poorly with rope drag, when you need it most
- Might misinterpret climbing movement as signals; YIKES!

Transitions

"Transition" in multi-pitch climbing refers to the process of changing roles and systems as the team progresses between pitches. Safe and efficient transitions are integral to multi-pitch climbing. Transitions may encompass:

Anchor building or cleaning
Alternating between climbing and belaying
Rope management: Ensuring the rope is stacked correctly for the next pitch
Redistributing climbing gear: Making sure the leader has the gear needed to climb the route and build an anchor
Communication: Using clear commands

Since transitions involve changing systems, they can introduce safety risks. It is critical to safety check every new belay system before using it and do a quick partner check before setting off on the next pitch.

Transitions are also a good time to eat, drink, and change clothing as necessary.

Typical Transition: Leader finishes pitch and belays the follower from above

Leader gets off belay
- Builds anchor
- Connects to anchor
- Calls “OFF BELAY”
Leader puts follower on belay
- Sets up belay device on anchor*
- Pulls and stacks extra rope
- Puts rope through belay device
- Safety checks the belay system
- Calls "BELAY ON"
Follower climbs pitch
- Listens for "BELAY ON", then cleans anchor
- Starts climbing
- Cleans and racks gear along the way

*Getting the follower on belay as soon as the rope is tight avoids possible communication and safety issues. Setting up the belay device before pulling up slack helps make that possible.

Typical Transition: Follower arrives at anchor and either climber prepares to lead next pitch

Follower arrives at anchor connects to anchor
- Belay device can be put away
Transfer gear to leader of next pitch
- Direct hand-offs may risk dropping gear; clipping to the anchor works well
- Leader organizes and racks gear on their harness
Prepare rope for next pitch
- Re-flaking or flipping the rope is highly recommended if block leading
- Rope should be in a good position and ready to feed out neatly for lead belaying
Belayer puts leader on belay
- Uses standard lead belay technique from harness
- Says "BELAY ON"
Leader safety checks the belay setup
Leader disconnects from anchor and leads out next pitch

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