Gibraltar & Campo de Gibraltar

In the Spring of 2022, for our Hispanic Studies 390 course, "Gibraltar/Campo de Gibraltar: Vidas fronterizas/Border Lives", students had a hands-on research experience in Gibraltar and its environs. Below are my introductory remarks. The real stories are told by our student researchers, available on the Student Projects pages on this site. The text of each project is written in Spanish but note that Author's Reflection is written in English.

Francie Cate-Arries, William & Mary

Postcards from the Edge

Enthusiastic musings of a first-time visitor

In February of 1979, as a M.A. student at the University of Georgia, I sent my parents a postcard from the Spanish shores of Campo de Gibraltar, barely containing my excitement: “Well, are you properly impressed? This is your basic Rock of Gibraltar...We walked down to the docks of the port today, and there was the Rock of Gibraltar looming so close I still can't believe that I’m seeing this.”

Forty years would pass before I would actually set foot across the border from Spain into Gibraltar, accompanied by Campo de Gibraltar native and close professional colleague, Arantza Galiardo. During this visit in 2019, the two of us planned a future field trip with W&M undergraduates.

The inviting title of Arantza’s gift to me, Juan José Téllez’s extraordinary compendium, Yanitos: Travel to the Heart of Gibraltar (1713-2013) held out the promise of an unforgettable trip.

Hamming It Up in Campo de Gibraltar

Three years and one global pandemic later, in March 2022 during spring break, that trip became reality. Thirteen curious, intrepid students and I met up with co-director Arantza for a remarkable week, traversing borders between Gibraltar and Spain, gathering information for the multimedia Story Map projects featured here.

A prophetic mural from the pre-pandemic times of 2019,
Vale La Pena Esperar (It's Worth the Wait), Indeed! (Restaurante Bitácora, La Línea)
L-R Back row, Megan McFarland, Julia Ashworth, Arantza Galiardo, Joey Upadhyay, Emmy Giacoia, Amaia Moxon, Carlota Visconsi, Cate-ArriesL-R Front row, Hannah Saad, Kate Marston, Elizabeth Gómez, Dina Phipps, Carolina Rivera, Astrid García, Giselle Figueroa (foto de Figueroa)

Once on the ground, each student, pursuing some facet of the course material—related to questions of state sovereignty, citizenship and belonging, up to the age of Brexit; integration and exclusion, migrations, movements, and minority communities; the politics of language, multilingual imaginaries, cross-cultural practices and traditions—tracked his or her selected research dossier topic.

Joey in La Línea (Campo de Gibraltar) & the Rock, within reach (foto Giacoia)

Megan, Julia, Hannah, Kate, Carlota, Dina, Crossing the Border (foto Rivera)

Our internationally-based field work enhanced our W&M on-campus study through the group’s encounters in situ with unforgettable people and places

In the company of Maiko Netto, Sam Hennessy, Sumaya Acheddad, and the legendary Gibraltarian historian Tito Benady, we gathered for a series of presentations at Gibraltar’s largest labor union, Unite the Union, on topics related to transnational workers’ rights, migrant labor history, and progressive 21st c. cross-border partnerships. We are also especially grateful to Sam Hennessy (3rd from R) for coordinating the presentations, and facilitating the arrangements for our visit. https://www.unitetheunion.org/what-we-do/unite-in-your-region/gibraltar/

Carlota, Giselle, Jullia, Eizabeth, Megan, Astrid, Joey, Arantza, Michael Netto, Hannah, Kate, Carolina, Emmy, Dina, Sam Hennessy, Francie, Tito Benady (foto Figueroa)

A tour of the Gibraltar's historic Garrison Library with Director Jennifer Ballantine Perera (F-R, 3rd from L) , where students had the opportunity conduct archival research.

San Roque author and historian Antonio Pérez Girón’s expert explanation of local artist Luis Ortega Bru’s Exodus, depicting18th c. Spanish-born refugees who fled Gibraltar when the British took possession of the Rock in 1713, a history of displacement captured in the city of San Roque's motto, the city where the town of Gibraltar lives.

(fotos Galiardo; McFarland)

José (Pepe) Martínez Téllez (far left), from the Historical Society of La Línea (Campo de Gibraltar) led us through WWII bunkers that dotted the borderland landscapes of Franco's Spain, positioned against possible Allied incursions from the Rock. The memorable evening tour included palimpsests of other armed conflicts on this border, visible in the seaside remains of the fortifications against the British in the 18th century. (fotos Figueroa; Rivera)

Angel Sáez, Director of the Algeciras-based high school, IES Los Pinos, provided a rousing account of how residents of Campo de Gibraltar region in ancient Roman times prepared against attacks by groups from the nearby shores of northern Africa. From the site of the Roman ruins of Carteia, Professor Angel transported the group through time to key moments of memorable sieges and coastal encounters that reminded us of the remarkably close proximity of the nation states that now form this perimeter: Gibraltar (UK), Campo de Gibraltar (Spain) and Morocco. (fotos Galiardo; García; Figueroa)

An incredible day spent with Casa de la Memoria director and historical memory activist Andrés Rebolledo, in and around the city of Jimena de la Frontera , including the breathtakingly beautiful grounds of the remote, mountain-top site of La Sauceda. This village was destroyed by fascist air raids during the Spanish Civil War of 1936--six months before the Guernica bombings--and is one of dozens of sites of civilian massacres, places that engendered massive displacement of survivors seeking refuge in exile, including Gibraltar, a democratic haven .

Andrés Rebolledo, Casa de la Memoria Exhibits of local fascist war crimes in 1936

Ruins of homes of former La Sauceda residents, obliterated during fascist attacks (foto Marston)

Emmy makes the long trek through the cork trees to the site of the massacre (foto Marston)

On the way to the cemetery where signage with graffiti reminds us that 21st c. debates about Spain's traumatic past are heated (foto Marston)

Andrés Rebolledo & Cate-Arries in front of the refurbished facade of the La Sauceda chapel, still standing after the bombing campaign.

The commemorative plaque honoring 1936 victims recovered from mass graves in 2012

Where lives, hopes and dreams were cut down, memory and justice now bloom (foto Marston)

At the Fundación de Solidaridad Amaranta in Algeciras, Ilargi Mayor Alforja (center) gave an impassioned presentation of the plight of migrant women who arrive on the shores of Campo de Gibraltar from African nations, seeking a better life for their families. Ms. Mayor Alforja outlined the complexity of immigration law, in-country challenges for women who are often victims of trafficking and violence, and the remarkable resilience of this community, captured in the center's slogan, Mujeres que no se rinden (Women Who Never Give Up(foto Figueroa)

Our unforgettable cross-cultural meeting at the Los Barrios high school, IES Sierra Luna, between our group and 19 Campo de Gibraltar students and staff, including professors and meet-up co-organizers, Antonio Morales Benítez and Francisco Torres Barranco. Sharing morning churros and chocolate sweetened one of the most meaningful encounters during our extraordinary week. We are forever grateful to our IES Sierra Luna staff and students who so graciously received our group, a high point of our trip. (fotos Rivera; Galiardo)

This faculty-mentored “Study Away” research initiative was possible thanks to the funding and fellowship support provided, on the one hand, by W&M’s Reves Center (with expert coordination by Marina LaMastro and Sylvia Mitterndorfer)—and, on the other, by W&M alumni whose visionary gifts created the financial means to help make such an experience a reality. We are especially grateful for the Sharon Philpott (’85) -Marta Pérez research fellowship (est. 2010) and for the incredibly generous gift from Carol Vaughn (‘82) and the late Dave Vaughn (’83). The students and I are also indebted to W&M’s Mike Blum and Jada Bonds at the Studio for Teaching and Learning Innovation for their technological expertise, and for working on the project with us.

My collaboration with Arantza Galiardo was a career highlight. Being in the company of not only Arantza but also her father, José Emilio Galiardo, a long-time and generous contact for my Cádiz-based research about Franco repression, was an double treat for me. I am grateful for José Emilio's contributions to the success of our program.

I invite you to accompany each student’s foray into Gibraltar (UK) and the Campo de Gibraltar (Spain) through the Story Map s/he has created, thirteen “ways of seeing” the complex cultural layers of lands and lives on Spain’s southern border.

Emmy, Kate, Hannah, Joey, Amaia & the Rock (Foto Giacoia)

Arantza, Julia, Hannah, Joey, Kate in the Garrison Library, Gibraltar (Foto Galiardo)

Astrid, Elizabeth, Carolina, Giselle &

Monkey Friend, Gibraltar (Foto Rivera)

Kate, Megan, Carlota, Joey, Hannah, Julia & View of Moroccan coastline (Foto Marston)

Dina y la cabina telefónica, Gibraltar (Foto Marston)

Carlota, on the road to Tarifa. African shoreline on the horizon (Foto Visconsi)

Plaza Mayor, Gibraltar (Foto Rivera)

Tarifa, Violence- Free (Foto Rivera)

José Emilio Galiardo y Arantza Galiardo, Unite the Union, Gibraltar

Plaza de España, Sevilla (Foto Rivera)

La profe Cate-Arries, 45 years before our 2022 trip, Sevilla, Spain