Here's what's happening right now:
Warm season grasses are thriving! These heat loving lawns are soaking in long hours of beautiful, summer sunshine and living their best lives. Be sure to keep them mowed to maximize their potential!
Fescue lawns are struggling. Heat, drought & disease have these poor cool weather grasses hanging on for dear life! Happily, relief is in sight: Fall seeding is just around the corner. Please be patient with your Fescue lawn over the summer, it is trying its best. Be sure to repair it with fall seeding!
Weeds may still be lingering and can be difficult to treat due to the high temperatures. However, that doesn't mean that we want you to live with them so please call us if you're seeing weeds.
Disease and harmful insects are omnipresent in untreated turf and shrubbery. If Dreamlawns isn't handling these issues for you, please contact us for DIY options.
Mosquitoes are continuing their aerial assault and spreading misery and disease throughout Hampton Roads. Fortunately our Outdoor Pest Control team is fighting back and forcing this bloodsucking menace into full retreat.
Summer applications include products that target sedge. These blanket applications will keep nutsedge and green kyllinga at bay over the next few months. If they reappear just give us a call and we'll get them knocked out 👊💥 ASAP. Did you know that most of our "competitors" charge extra for sedge control? By the way, our sedge controls may cause minor, temporary leaf discoloration. It'll pass in a few mowings. A light watering after application can help.
Fescue lawns will get a light, slow release nitrogen and micronutrient application in early summer to help them build stronger root systems. They'll get a liquid calcium application in the middle of summer to help maintain pH & replenish calcium lost during periods of stress. Towards the end of summer we'll transition to granular fertilizers to help fescue recover from summer and prepare for their joyous fall growing period.
Most Fescue (and some St. Augustine) lawns are being treated for fungal diseases & damaging insects.
Bermuda & Zoysia typically resist summer diseases without additional treatments, but may be damaged by insects. We offer a two round program to minimize the risk for these grasses.
Summer lawns are getting high nitrogen fertilizers to maximize their growing season.
Hybrid bermuda lawns may be getting growth regulators to help them thicken & knit tightly together or to reduce mowing requirements.
This is a great season for soil conditioners. We're applying gypsum (to reduce sodium and make up calcium deficiencies), potassium (to improve water retention and stress resistance), compost fertilizers (to improve soil structure & increase organic soil content) & (towards the end of the season) phosphorus which helps boost seed germination on fescue lawns. If your soil test indicates a need for any of these products we'll contact you.
Our outdoor pest control team is waging war against mosquitoes, fleas & ticks, to help maximize your outdoor space this summer.
Shrubs & small trees are being treated for disease & damaging insects and fed with foliar nutrition.
Our 7 Round TurfCare Program includes control of crabgrass and all broadleaf weeds as well as nutsedge.
Fescue lawns are getting our Summer Stress Guard to help these struggling lawns coast through their stressful season.
Warm-season lawns are getting our clean up application to remove any lingering weeds and then high nitrogen fertilizers to maximize their summer growth.
Plant Healthcare customers are getting a combination of fast & slow-release nutrients as well as insect & disease controls.
We’re also using Deep Root Feeding to help large or injured shrubbery.
Our outdoor pest control applications are suppressing mosquitoes, fleas & ticks all across Hampton Roads!
Fungal diseases will start appearing on Fescue and St. Augustine lawns in April and remain a threat throughout the spring and summer.
Our five-round disease control program will protect your lawn from both diseases and damaging insects, but there are great DIY options available as well!
Even with disease controls, careful watering is still important!
Be sure to call right away if you see these signs of disease: Yellow, brown, matted, or dying patches; Lesions on the turf blades (check the areas where healthy turf borders damaged turf); Strands, “cobwebs' ' or greasy clumps appearing on the turf, especially early in the morning.
In an effort to manage increasing processing costs, in summer 2026, Dreamlawns will begin applying a credit card processing fee to credit card transactions. We will continue to offer cash, check, and ACH payment options with no additional fees. We truly appreciate your continued business and understanding!
If Dreamlawns is aerating and seeding for you, please let us know ASAP. We have limited slots available and we want to make sure that we can schedule everyone who is interested.
We offer three options for this critical service:
Prepayment. This is our most popular option. Pay for the service in full before completion and save 10%!
Make a 25% deposit with the balance due upon completion of your aeration & seeding.
Pay in installments, beginning in June with the final payment in August.
Call us today for more details or to reserve your spot.
Speaking of seeding, fall is almost here. Let's take a moment to talk about fall Fescue seeding.
Unlike warm-season grasses that spread out and fill in on their own, Tall Fescue is a bunch-type, non-expanding turf. Because it cannot self-repair, fescue naturally loses density each summer under the intense Hampton Roads heat. Annual fall aeration and seeding is the single most important event of the year to replenish that lost density and keep your lawn thick. Because you only get one real window a year for this, achieving a successful germination result is absolutely critical for the long-term health of your property.
The 14-to-21-Day Rule: Once seed is down, it must be kept constantly damp for 14 to 21 days to germinate. If the seed is allowed to dry out even once after the germination process begins, the fragile embryo will die.
The #1 Cause of Failure: Aside from visual issues like washouts from heavy storms, seed drying out is the only likely cause of poor germination. If the grass doesn't come up, it almost always comes down to moisture consistency.
The Irrigation Blindspot: Automatic irrigation systems are great, but they rarely provide perfect, uniform coverage. Wind drift, clogged nozzles, or poor spacing leave dry zones. You must audit your system and manually check for underperforming, dry areas.
The Aerator Hole Red Flag: If you notice grass seed sprouting only inside the core aeration holes and completely bare on the flat surface between them, this is a classic red flag of poor watering coverage. The holes hold moisture naturally, while the flat surface dried out and failed.
Prompt Notice Matters: Dreamlawns stands behind our work and will gladly spot-seed underperforming areas at no cost to you, but we need you to notify us promptly. If you wait until December to call us for a reseed, we will absolutely honor our promise and put seed down, but the dropping winter soil temperatures mean the results will probably be poor.
Teamwork Makes the Lawn: We provide the premium seed and the perfect soil contact; you provide the water. Let's work together to make this fall a massive success!
Seed germinating only in aeration holes indicates poor watering coverage.
As we write this in late May 2026, Hampton Roads is weathering one of the driest spring seasons in our history. While we typically average 3.2 to 3.4 inches of rain per month during this time of year, this spring has thrown us a major curveball.
Here is a look at the numbers—and why they are incredibly deceptive:
April 1 – 25: We measured a cumulative total of less than one inch of rainfall at the Hampton Roads Executive Airport.
The April 26 Deluge: That dry streak was shattered when a single storm dumped roughly 8 inches of rain in one day.
The Catch? A massive, single-day downpour is no substitute for steady, consistent rainfall. Soil has a strict absorption limit; once that threshold is crossed, excess water simply runs off rather than soaking down to the roots. Because of this, your lawn only received about 1 to 1.5 inches of usable rainfall for the entire month of April.
Unfortunately, May is following a similar script. From May 1 through May 19, we have only seen two days of significant rainfall.
The bottom line? Our lawns are dry. Very dry.
Your irrigation system is a supplement not a substitute for natural rainfall.
Imperfect Coverage vs. Total Saturation: No irrigation system achieves perfect distribution uniformity. Factors like wind drift, fluctuating water pressure, and nozzle spacing inevitably create dry patches and over-saturated zones. Rain blankets the entire landscape evenly, ensuring every square inch of soil and canopy is hydrated.
The Cloud Cover "Reset": Rain is accompanied by clouds that drop ambient temperatures and slash intense solar radiation. This sudden reduction in heat stress and evaporation allows plants to conserve energy, restore their water balance, and "prime" their cellular machinery to absorb sunlight at maximum efficiency the moment the skies clear.
Superior Water Chemistry: Municipal and well water often contain treatment chemicals (like chlorine), fluorides, or dissolved salts that can build up in the soil and stress root systems over time. Rainwater is pure, naturally soft, and contains high levels of dissolved oxygen, which prevents root rot.
Free Atmospheric Fertilizer: Nature builds a fertilizer boost right into the weather. Lightning strikes break apart atmospheric nitrogen, which attaches to falling raindrops as highly bioavailable nitrates. This delivers an immediate, natural growth surge that a garden hose just can't replicate.
Williamsburg had the driest April since the 1950s. Virginia Beach had the 8th driest April in recorded history.
Due to this near record drought, our watering advice may be different this year than in other years. We are closely monitoring the weather and adjusting our advice based on current conditions and individual lawns. We very much appreciate your cooperation and flexibility.
Tall Fescue will struggle when air temperatures are consistently above 85 degrees. The plant is not well adapted to these temps and has trouble making enough food for itself, which is a serious problem as it often uses more energy than it creates throughout the summer. Quite simply, your Fescue is about to get awfully hungry.
This issue is made worse by actual physical burning that often occurs along concrete or in especially hot areas. The end result is that even with perfect mowing & watering, you'll lose about 1/3 of the density of a Fescue lawn in July & August. That's in addition to loss caused by insects, disease, pets and traffic. Summer isn't friendly to Fescue!
Drought stress on an irrigated lawn in April 2026
Close up of the same lawn. Note the curled, needle-like blades.
Disease should be expected on all Fescue and St. Augustine lawns. These lawns should be treated from spring through fall to prevent damage.
Disease may present on Zoysia or Bermuda lawns, but they typically recover without treatment.
Sometimes damage occurs even with treatment, so be sure to water carefully and call Dreamlawns as soon as you see any issues.
Brown patch disease damage on tall fescue
Grey leaf spot disease leasions on St. Augustine
These turf damaging caterpillars can quickly wreak havoc on a lawn: Severe infestations can wipe out a lawn in a matter of hours. Once damage is observed it is often too late to prevent significant loss, so it's best to prevent infestation in the first place. While they are more common in very late summer or early to mid fall, in the last few years outbreaks have started in early summer or even late spring.
Our Turf Damaging Insect & Disease Control Plan is highly effective at killing fall armyworms before they cause major damage.
Customers without this service, should call asap if they see fall armyworm caterpillars or any fast moving damage on the lawn. We'll be out to check promptly, but it can take a couple of days so be prepared to apply a granular lawn insecticide (available at most hardware box stores) to halt damage.
As you can see Tall Fescue (and sometimes St. Augustine) can really get beaten up over summer. Here's how to help:
Mowing high (and only as needed)
Watering carefully (more on that below)
Protecting it from diseases and insects
Addressing soil deficiencies; a plant under severe stress is unable to deal with desiccation caused by high soil sodium or poor cell structure caused by potassium deficiency.
Feeding carefully with gentle, slow release nutrients.
In fact we started this process in fall by applying slow release root building fertilizers, and continued throughout the spring with gentle foliar nutrition (vs the harsh, fast release products used by some other companies).
Actual picture of a Dreamlawns Technician fighting for your lawn.
Ok so Dreamlawns is fighting for my Fescue, but what can I do to help?
Do I need to buy a sword?
Fescue lawns will lose root mass throughout the warm season. Our goal is to bulk up the root system before the stressful summer weather takes its toll.
There is a massive difference between feeding a lawn for long-term health and just forcing it to look green for a couple of weeks.
Many of our competitors use spring applications to "pound" lawns with fast-release nitrogen and heavy iron chelates. While this creates a quick, dramatic spring color, it’s a trap. It forces the grass to expend all its energy on rapid top growth instead of producing and storing carbohydrates in the roots. When the summer heat hits, these lawns essentially suffer a massive sugar crash.
How Dreamlawns Does It Differently
We don’t chase cheap, temporary green-ups at the expense of your lawn's summer survival. Our feeding strategy is built to construct a stronger, more resilient plant:
Controlled Nutrition: We use smaller, deliberate amounts of nitrogen, stabilized to ensure it feeds the lawn slowly and evenly.
Organic Composts: We integrate premium organic composts (Earthworks 3-4-3 and 8-2-2) to build up the soil biology naturally.
Building a Shield: As we transition into summer, we increase the amounts of silica and potassium (K). Think of this as armor for the grass blades - it strengthens the plant's cell walls specifically to withstand intense heat and drought stress.
The Bottom Line: We feed the roots to survive the summer, not just the blades to look pretty in May.
Turfgrass is a living thing. All living things require water. Unfortunately disease causing fungus also requires water. Watering in summer is a balancing act: Too frequently and the turf will die from disease; too infrequently and the turf will die from drought.
All lawns should be watered heavily but infrequently during periods of high temperatures, typically ranging from mid spring to early fall (welcome to life in Hampton Roads).
Fescue lawns are especially vulnerable because they tend to have a shallower root system than warm season lawns and use water more quickly during summer.
Fescue lawns should get 1 - 1.5 inches of water per week split into 2 - 3 watering sessions.
Warm season lawns need 1 - 1.5 inches of water per week applied only when they show signs of drought stress, which is normally a few times each summer.
As luck would have it, watering properly will also benefit root growth.
Time of day matters too...
That said, for customers without automatic irrigation systems: The best time to water is when you can. Watering in the evening increases the risk of disease, but if after work or school is the only time that you can water, then so be it. Just be sure to keep an eye out for fungal disease.
As mowing height decreases, so too does rooting depth. Lower mowing also exposes more soil to sunlight which increases heat stress. It is also critical to avoid removing more than 1/3 of the leaf blade in any one mowing to avoid shock.
Mowing is perhaps the practice with the biggest effect on a lawn. Unfortunately there is a lot of misinformation regarding mowing. Happily, Virginia State University & Virginia Tech have created the Cooperative Extension. These turfgrass scientists are an invaluable resource and have dedicated their lives to turfgrass research. Here it is straight from the Extension:
"Whereas Fescues and Bluegrasses thrive at mowing heights of 2 - 3 inches during the fall and early spring, for summer the best strategy is to mow at a 3 - 4 inch height (or even taller). Raise the cutting deck to its highest setting when it needs clipping and don’t feel compelled to get the mower out at all if the grass is not growing."
Core aeration potentially has an enormous benefit on root growth (and therefore on drought stress) depending on the level of soil compaction present.
Improves water uptake by soil, which can further reduce drought stress and may improve drainage. This process can take several years.
Allows air and sunlight to reach the root zone, which improves the plant’s ability to “breathe” and can help to stunt pathogenic bacteria.
Allows nutrients to reach the root zone, especially when combined with compost fertilizers.
Deposits soil on top of the ground, greatly increasing seed to soil contact for seeded fescue lawns in fall.
Reduces thatch, which also improves seed to soil contact.
For best results, aerate every year. Fescue lawns should be aerated in fall (when they're seeded) and warm season lawns should be aerated in spring.
Access to more reservoirs for water and nutrients.
Access to more organic matter.
Increased microbial life, meaning increased aeration / oxygen.
Improved storage of carbohydrates.
Increased tolerance of traffic.
Greater root system survival during high temperatures.
Reduction of heat stress symptoms.
Since they have naturally shallow root systems, Fescue lawns will have an outsized benefit from anything that improves the average depth of their rooting mass.
We love our four-legged family members, but summer can turn your backyard into a battlefield for your grass. Pets don't discriminate - they will cause damage across all turf types, though cool-season Tall Fescue usually takes the hardest hit.
Here is exactly what's happening when your pets hit the lawn:
Liquid Burn (Urine): Dog urine is highly acidic and packed with concentrated nitrogen. It acts like a massive overdose of fast-release fertilizer on a single spot, quickly burining and killing the grass blades and possibly the crown.
The Summer Heat Multiplier: Acid burn is significantly worse in June, July, and August. The scorching summer heat magnifies the chemical burn on a plant that is already deeply heat-stressed and struggling to stay hydrated.
Slow Burn (Feces): Leftover solid waste continues to leach excess nitrogen into the soil over time. This slowly suffocating process cuts off oxygen and nutrient absorption to the roots below.
Physical Wear and Tear: Heavy traffic from repetitive running "tracks" packs down the soil, causing severe compaction. Combined with digging, this physically tears up the turf canopy and exposes the bare, vulnerable soil to baking sunlight.
Our Promise: While we can fight the weeds and bugs, we can't train the dog! If you are seeing severe pet spots, let us know so we can discuss re-establishment strategies to help your lawn recover.
As the summer heat ramps up, so does nutsedge - that aggressive, lime-green weed that grows twice as fast as your regular grass and sticks out like a sore thumb.
Managing nutsedge requires highly specialized, premium products. Because of this, most of our competitors treat it as a premium add-on and charge you extra for it. At Dreamlawns, we believe in a complete service, which is why nutsedge control is automatically included for all of our customers at no additional cost.
Here is what you need to know about our treatments:
The Dismiss Advantage: We use a top-tier professional herbicide called Dismiss. It works incredibly fast, attacking the weed right down to its underground "nutlets."
Don't Panic Over "Bronzing": Because Dismiss is so powerful, it can occasionally cause a temporary "bronzing" or slight yellowing on the upper tips of the nearby grass blades.
It’s Not Damage: This is a purely cosmetic, temporary reaction from the plant. It is not permanent damage and will completely disappear within one to two regular mowings.
The H2O Factor: This bronzing effect is rarely seen on healthy, properly watered lawns. Keeping up with your deep, infrequent summer watering schedule helps your grass process the treatment seamlessly while the nutsedge bites the dust.
This innovative plan uses unique stations which force local mosquitoes to spread larvae-killing products to breeding sites, killing the offspring of mosquitoes that don't find their way into these stations. No mosquito is safe!
We combine the continuous control offered by the stations with the instant effect of mosquito barrier sprays to achieve excellent and lasting control over mosquitoes with minimal effect on pollinators and other beneficial insects!
Results are guaranteed: If mosquitoes are biting, give us a call and we'll rush right out for a no cost supplemental treatment.
Serviced monthly from April - Oct.
This plan features 7 applications of conventional insecticide or 10 applications of organic insecticide.
Treatments occur about once a month from April - Oct.
Results are guaranteed: if mosquitoes are biting, give us a call and we'll rush right out for a no cost supplemental treatment.
May not be the best choice for very small properties as a mosquito can easily fly from outside the property, bite you and then leave without touching a treated surface.
Will affect beneficial insects (even organic insecticides) but we do our best to minimize these effects.
This plan consists of ONLY In2Care mosquito reduction stations.
This service provides fair control but may be overwhelmed by heavy mosquito pressure.
Has no effect on pollinators or other beneficial insects.
This can be a good choice for small lawns if they don’t face heavy mosquito pressure.
This is a perfect choice for very environmentally conscious customers.
Serviced monthly from April - Oct.
Results are not guaranteed, but we will apply a barrier spray upon request at a 50% discount while we are on the property for mosquito service.
7 applications per year to keep your plants healthy and beautify your outdoor living space.
Slow-release nutrients to spoon feed your plants, with each species being fed at precisely the right time of year.
Controls most damaging insects and diseases.
A unique package of nutrients and root stimulants applied directly to the root zone of large plants.
Allows the plant to absorb more nutrients from the soil.
Helps to improve the drainage of the soil around your plants by reducing compaction and increasing aeration.
Helps to increase disease resistance and encourages growth.
May - Sept
Slow-release nutrients and root stimulants to spoon feed your palms.
Two applications per year, May - Sept.
Flowerbed Weed Prevention Program
Think of our pre-emergent program as an invisible shield for your landscape. Instead of waiting for weeds to take over and pulling them by hand, we apply a preventative barrier to the soil that stops weed seeds from sprouting in the first place.
Where we apply it: This treatment is effective in all landscape beds, including mulched areas and rock gardens.
Plant Safety: The products are designed to prevent new weeds without harming your existing ornamental plants, shrubs, or trees. Note: If you have spring-flowering bulbs (like tulips or daffodils), please let us know, as pre-emergents can sometimes reduce their yield.
Realistic Expectations: While this program will drastically reduce the weed population and save you hours of weeding, it is not a "silver bullet." It will not kill weeds that are already growing, and it may not eliminate 100% of the most aggressive weeds - but it will make your beds significantly easier to maintain.
Timing: To keep the barrier active year-round, we apply these treatments 3 times per year.