Board to Be Wild
The purpose of this project was to further familiarize students with woodworking machinary and allow us to become proficient in many of areas. Additonally, it exposed us to new materials and encouraged the creation of new, original designs and cutting boards.
Materials Used
Table Top Epoxy Resin - Part A
Table Top Epoxy Hardener - Part B
Pearlescent Pigment Powder
Pearlescent Pigment Powder
Food Grade Mineral Oil
Nito Tape
Acrylic Pieces
Equipment and Machines Used
Computer Numeric Control (CNC) Shopbot
Festool Orbital Sander
Drum Sander
Drum Sander Vacuum
DeWalt Planar
Bernzomatic Blow Torch
Arrow Hot Glue Gun
Mallet and Chisel
To safely use any of the above-mentioned equipment, machines, or materials, it is essential to tuck in drawstrings and necklaces, pull back hair, roll up sleeves, wear eye protection, and, when using the CNC machine, wear ear protection.
The Cutting Board Process: Planing
"Measure twice, cut once"
Pictured to the right is a detailed dimensioning of the board and its knot. This is an essential part of turning this piece of wood into a nice, polished cutting board as this allows you to run the wood through machines safely and properly, thus helping you achieve your desired effect.
Using these measurements allowed me to choose an appropriate size for my Corel Draw file, 12" x 9.25". Although the wood is 11and 15/16" long and 9" tall, the Corel Draw file should be slightly larger to allow for some additional space.
A Rough Sketch
Shown to the left is a rough sketch for my cutting board made in Notability. The sketch details plans for filling the knot with blue resin and then white, bubbly resin on the edges to create and ocean wave effect.
Preparing The Wood
The DeWalt planar
After putting on eye and ear protection, tucking in my draw strings, tying my hair back, and pulling up my sleeves, I starting smoothing my cutting board using the planar machine. Mrs. Morrow, my teacher, would feed the wood through the planar, using the wooden stick to protect her fingers, and I would grab and pass the wood back to her on the other side. Each time Mrs. Morrow would turn the handle on the side of the planar to move the blade down and plain more the wood off with the preceding run.
![](https://www.google.com/images/icons/product/drive-32.png)
After the planar
![](https://www.google.com/images/icons/product/drive-32.png)
The Drum Sander
Follwing the same saftey precautions as I did for the planar, except for ear protection, I was able to safely operate the drum sander. Before I could operate the machine, I ensured the vacuum was properly attatched and turned on to prevent the drum sander from clogging or overheating. Next, I put my board on the bed of the drum sander while it was off and squatted down to check that the top of the board and the line of the drum sander had plently of space between them. Next, I took my board off the bed, turned the dial to 40 to allow the bed to move the board through the sander, and then flipped the red switch up to turn on the sander. I would then run the board through and turn the lever clockwise 1/4 of a turn until I made contact with the board. Once I made contact, I ran the board through a second time before turning the lever 1/8 of a turn until I achieved my desired smoothness. I then repeating this same process for the other side of the board.
After the drum sander
The New Dimensions
It is important to take new dimensions of the wood after planing and sanding it as these processes will decrease the size of the wood, even if only acutely.
Painting With Resin
Because of the knot in this piece of wood, exposed pieces of wood were present and needed to be coated with resin before we could do a resin pour.
![](https://www.google.com/images/icons/product/drive-32.png)
Designing
Corel Draw Design
To the right is my Corel Draw design of a thumbhole for my board. On a 12" x 9.25" page, I made a circle using the circle tool in Corel Draw. I then positioned the circle in the bottom left corner of the board and an inch from the left and bottom sides. Next, I turned the circle lines to hairline and saved the file as a .cdr file and exported it to the engproj Google Drive. I will be making this thumbhole usign the CNC ShoppBot machine.
Additionally, I will be using resin in my board after CNCing to create an ocean wave and beach inspired cutting board.
After watching David Stanton's "Beginner CAD to CAM CNC Vectric Aspire Dave Stanton easy woodworking" YouTube video and writing the Aspire Workflow below, I converted the Corel Draw .cdr file into a useable format for the ShopBot software, Vectric Aspire.
Aspire Workflow
Open new file in aspire
set the document to landscape
Z 0 position off the top of the surface
Working from left bottom corner on the XY datum
Appearance MDF
Create the vector (which was the slotted hole) so click create a vector and x 70.0 y 50.0 and diameter 30mm and hit create
Can pan across the image by pushing down on the scroll wheel to look at the stuff up closer
Toggle geometry snapping on and off — turn it on! To create tangents
Create another circle for the slotted hole: x 140mm y 50 (y is distance from baseboard) and diameter 30mm and hit create and hit close
Join the two circles with the snap to geometry tool and use poly line, click on top of one circle, drag a line to other circle’s top, and snap the tangent there, then straight down and snap to the tangent on the bottom of that circle, then to the left circle and snap to the bottom of that circle, then left click on the close button to leave the function
Click on left mouse button away from the newly drawn vector
Go over to the scissors under the edit objects tab, now in active trim
Cut the left circle’s right side that’s a semi circle, the right circle’s vertical line in the center, and the right circle’s left side that’s a semi circle.
Left click on mouse button and drag to the left to see the new vector
To do dimensioning, under create vectors tab click dimension - add dimensions to a 2D drawing
Make sure in horizontal dimension
Left click on the middle of the left vertical side and drag across to the point on the other side, left click there and then take the dimension box anywhere you want and left click
Aspire will normally be in imperial when open it up and will be .2 in total height (saying .2 of an inch which about 5 mm), not 10 so put 10 mm in the text height box (100mm)
Now vertical dimension, click on edge of right semi circle and horizontal line and drag down to that point across the circle and left click to put dimension down on inside or outside of vector (30mm) which is our diameter
Do arc dimension by left clicking on the top left corner of the left semicircle and pull out to put arc dimension (15mm radius) on inside or outside of vector
Click close
Left click on mouse button, press delete button on keyboard on all the dimensions just made
Drag screen by left clicking on scroll wheel so can see the whole screen
(Left?) click on the vector, go over to the offset and layout tab, click the second icon along, array copy, and click that
Enter 2 in columns (x) and 2 in rows (y)
300 on the x’s offset (measuring from the right center point on the vector to the right center point on the vector this array copy will make (its the same center to center)) and 200mm on the y’s offset for how high it is
Click the copy button
click close
Drag to make a box over all four vectors to select them all
To center them on the work piece go under the transform objects and click the align selected objects
Then click align to material for all of them (align left-right would align them on the middle on the y-axis and align up and down would align them equal distance on the x-axis)
Click close
Click on upper left “switch to toolpath commands” button
Cutting the four vectors out (not a pocket)
Clicked on 2d profile toolpaths
Start depth 0, cut depth 16.1mm (bc want to go .1 of a mm through the material, material itself 16 mm deep)
Selected end mill, move down into metric tools
6.35mm = ¼ inch which is diameter
How much can take in any one pass is 5mm
Spindle speed set to 18000 rpm
Feed rate set to 41.67mm/sec
Plunge rate is 5mm/sec
Tool number set to 1
Click apply
Click ok
Edit the passes to tell it how deep it goes in each pass, only want to cut 2mm in first pass
Click edit passes
Set 1st pass to 2mm deep
Click apply (the pass depth long yellow/tan bar thing represents the full thickness of the board)
Click on second arrow, set second pass to 7mm deep
Click apply
Click on third arrow, set 3rd pass to 12.0mm deep
Click apply
Click on fourth arrow, set 4th pass to 16.1mm deep
Click apply
Click ok
Now look at the layout
Under machine vectors, clicking on would run on the line, clicking outside would go around the line, and clicking inside would cut inside the line (leaves the line on the board)
Click on inside to cut inside the line under the machine vectors tab
Direction set to conventional and turn clockwise (the arrow at top of little box pointing to the left, around the corner, and down)
Under add tabs to toolpath, set length to 6.0mm and thickness to 1.5mm
Click edit tabs (changes where they are)
Set constant number to 4 (4 tabs per vector)
Executing the Plan
ShopBot Computer Numeric Control (CNC) Machine
Before operating the ShopBot machine, it is important to completely understand how to use the CNC machine. The following workflow allows you to achieve a complete understanding. Additionally, I wrote the workflow using ShopBot Tools's "ShopBot Control Software Basics" Youtube video and the Charlotte Latin School's Engineering, Designing, and Modeling II course's provided "CNCMachine" tutorial video.
![](https://www.google.com/images/icons/product/drive-32.png)
CNC Workflow
Vectric Aspire Design File
In the bottom left corner is a circle that will be the thumb hole on the cutting board. I created a toolpath in the Vectric Aspire software with two tabs on the circle to increase the likelihood the milling is sucessful.
Before Milling
Before milling the cutting board, I applied nito tape on the flattest side of the board to create a sturdy connection to the bed of the ShopBot machine.
Using the ShoptBot CNC Machine to Mill the Cutting Board
![](https://www.google.com/images/icons/product/drive-32.png)
After Milling
To the left is the cutting board directly after milling and pulling it off the ShopBot bed.
After milling the cutting board, I removed the nito tape on the back of the board.
Next, I used a chisel and mallet to remove the tabs surrounding the circle of wood in the thumb hole. I then smoothed the inside of the thumb hole using sandpaper starting at an 80 grit and gradually increasing to a 320 grit.
Preparing to Resin Pour
Using two scrap pieces of acrylic and one large rectangular piece my teacher saved for me, I hot glued a temporary wall to the board for holding resin. I hot glued around the thumb hole, where the acrylic pieces met, and the edges of the acrylic, thoroughly covering any potential places where the resin could leak.
![](https://www.google.com/images/icons/product/drive-32.png)
Pouring the Resin
Before handling any resin, I pulled my hair back and put on safety glasses and plastic gloves.
Although it is reccomended to measure how much resin is needed for a cutting board by pouring a measured amount of water in the desired resin spot on a board, my teacher had me skip this step and prepared a hefty amount of resin for my pour. Using the resin she prepared for me (one half Part A and a little more than half of Part B mixed together for five minutes), I poured a small bit of the resin in another cup. I then added two small scoops of Baltic Day's Pearlescent Pigment Powder in the color Silk Cocoon to the small cup of resin and then added three scoops of their Pigment Powder in the color Space to the large cup of resin. I then mixed the pigments into the resin thoroughly before pouring the Space colored resin into the board. Next, I poured a small line of the Silk Cocoon resin along one of the edges of the knot and moved it out in the shape of crashing waves using a heat gun. Then, Mrs. Morrow used a heat gun to remove the bubbles from the resin.
First Resin Pour
![](https://www.google.com/images/icons/product/drive-32.png)
Second Resin Pour
![](https://www.google.com/images/icons/product/drive-32.png)
Post-Resin Cutting Board Completion
After letting the resin dry for 24 hrs and an additional week, I used a putty knife to pry the acrylic pieces off the cutting board and a heat gun to remove the remaning hot glue.
Drum Sander
Following the same safety procedures and process as before, I used the drum sander to remove the excess resin from the board.
![](https://www.google.com/images/icons/product/drive-32.png)
Orbital Sanding
I then used the orbital sander to further smooth the cutting board. Starting with an 180 grit sandpaper, I gradually made my way up to a 400 grit sandpaper.
![](https://www.google.com/images/icons/product/drive-32.png)
Rinsing
After orbital sanding, I ran the board thoroughly under water and let dry for 24 hours to allow the board to pop and be able to be washed at home without becoming rough afterwards.
Orbital Sanding
I then orbital sanded the board again after the 24 hours, follwing the same procedures as before.
![](https://www.google.com/images/icons/product/drive-32.png)
The Final Product
After orbital sanding the board, I poured Simple Nature's mineral oil in my hands and then rubbed it into every crevice and surface of the cutting board. I then set it on a piece of cardboard and allowed it to dry for 24 hours.
Problems Encountered
After the first resin pour, the resin leaked and thus did not cover all of the knot. To solve this, we did a second resin pour following the same proceedures as the first pour.
After the second resin pour and 24 hours, the resin was still tacky and did not fully dry. To resolve this, I gave the resin a week to dry and left it outside in the direct sunlight while I was at school. Eventually, I had to drum sand the board while it was still slightly tacky, however, it turned out alright.