Board to Be Wild

The purpose of this project was to further familiarize students with woodworking machinary and allow us to become proficient in many of areas. Additonally, it exposed us to new materials and encouraged the creation of new, original designs and cutting boards. 

Materials Used 

      Table Top Epoxy       Resin - Part A

Total Boat's Clear Epoxy Coating For Bars and Table

Table Top Epoxy Hardener - Part B

Total Boat's Clear Epoxy Coating For Bars and Table 

Pearlescent Pigment Powder

Baltic Day's pure soul Pearlescent Pigment Powder in the color Space

Pearlescent Pigment Powder

Baltic Day's pure sould Pearlescent Pigment Powder in the color Silk Cocoon

Food Grade Mineral Oil

Simple Nature's Eco-friendly, organic, and natural food grade mineral oil for wood, steel, and stone protection and restoration

Nito Tape

Acrylic Pieces

Equipment and Machines Used

Computer Numeric Control (CNC) Shopbot

Festool Orbital Sander

Drum Sander

Drum Sander Vacuum 

DeWalt Planar

Bernzomatic Blow Torch

Arrow Hot Glue Gun

Mallet and Chisel 

To safely use any of the above-mentioned equipment, machines, or materials, it is essential to tuck in drawstrings and necklaces, pull back hair, roll up sleeves, wear eye protection, and, when using the CNC machine, wear ear protection.

The Cutting Board Process: Planing

"Measure twice, cut once"

Pictured to the right is a detailed dimensioning of the board and its knot. This is an essential part of turning this piece of wood into a nice, polished cutting board as this allows you to run the wood through machines safely and properly, thus helping you achieve your desired effect. 


Using these measurements allowed me to choose an appropriate size for my Corel Draw file, 12" x 9.25". Although the wood is 11and 15/16" long and 9" tall, the Corel Draw file should be slightly larger to allow for some additional space.

A Rough Sketch

Shown to the left is a rough sketch for my cutting board made in Notability. The sketch details plans for filling the knot with blue resin and then white, bubbly resin on the edges to create and ocean wave effect.

Preparing The Wood

The DeWalt planar

After putting on eye and ear protection, tucking in my draw strings, tying my hair back, and pulling up my sleeves, I starting smoothing my cutting board using the planar machine. Mrs. Morrow, my teacher, would feed the wood through the planar, using the wooden stick to protect her fingers, and I would grab and pass the wood back to her on the other side. Each time Mrs. Morrow would turn the handle on the side of the planar to move the blade down and plain more the wood off with the preceding run.

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After the planar

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The Drum Sander

Follwing the same saftey precautions as I did for the planar, except for ear protection, I was able to safely operate the drum sander. Before I could operate the machine, I ensured the vacuum was properly attatched and turned on to prevent the drum sander from clogging or overheating. Next, I put my board on the bed of the drum sander while it was off and squatted down to check that the top of the board and the line of the drum sander had plently of space between them. Next, I took my board off the bed, turned the dial to 40 to allow the bed to move the board through the sander, and then flipped the red switch up to turn on the sander. I would then run the board through and turn the lever clockwise 1/4 of a turn until I made contact with the board. Once I made contact, I ran the board through a second time before turning the lever 1/8 of a turn until I achieved my desired smoothness. I then repeating this same process for the other side of the board. 

After the drum sander

The New Dimensions

It is important to take new dimensions of the wood after planing and sanding it as these processes will decrease the size of the wood, even if only acutely.

Painting With Resin

Because of the knot in this piece of wood, exposed pieces of wood were present and needed to be coated with resin before we could do a resin pour.

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Designing

Corel Draw Design

To the right is my Corel Draw design of a thumbhole for my board. On a 12" x 9.25" page, I made a circle using the circle tool in Corel Draw. I then positioned the circle in the bottom left corner of the board and an inch from the left and bottom sides. Next, I turned the circle lines to hairline and saved the file as a .cdr file and exported it to the engproj Google Drive. I will be making this thumbhole usign the CNC ShoppBot machine.

Additionally, I will be using resin in my board after CNCing to create an ocean wave and beach inspired cutting board.

After watching David Stanton's "Beginner CAD to CAM CNC Vectric Aspire Dave Stanton easy woodworking" YouTube video and writing the Aspire Workflow below, I converted the Corel Draw .cdr file into a useable format for the ShopBot software, Vectric Aspire.

Aspire Workflow

Executing the Plan

ShopBot Computer Numeric Control (CNC) Machine

Before operating the ShopBot machine, it is important to completely understand how to use the CNC machine. The following workflow allows you to achieve a complete understanding. Additionally, I wrote the workflow using ShopBot Tools's "ShopBot Control Software Basics" Youtube video and the Charlotte Latin School's Engineering, Designing, and Modeling II course's provided "CNCMachine" tutorial video. 



ShopBot Tools's "ShopBot Control Software Basics" Youtube video
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Engineering, Designing, and Modeling II course provided "CNCMachine" tutorial video

CNC Workflow

Vectric Aspire Design File

In the bottom left corner is a circle that will be the thumb hole on the cutting board. I created a toolpath in the Vectric Aspire software with two tabs on the circle to increase the likelihood the milling is sucessful. 

Before Milling

Before milling the cutting board, I applied nito tape on the flattest side of the board to create a sturdy connection to the bed of the ShopBot machine.

Using the ShoptBot CNC Machine to Mill the Cutting Board

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After Milling

To the left is the cutting board directly after milling and pulling it off the ShopBot bed.

After milling the cutting board, I removed the nito tape on the back of the board. 

Next, I used a chisel and mallet to remove the tabs surrounding the circle of wood in the thumb hole. I then smoothed the inside of the thumb hole using sandpaper starting at an 80 grit and gradually increasing to a 320 grit. 

Preparing to Resin Pour

Using two scrap pieces of acrylic and one large rectangular piece my teacher saved for me, I hot glued a temporary wall to the board for holding resin. I hot glued around the thumb hole, where the acrylic pieces met, and the edges of the acrylic, thoroughly covering any potential places where the resin could leak.

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Pouring the Resin

Before handling any resin, I pulled my hair back and put on safety glasses and plastic gloves. 

Although it is reccomended to measure how much resin is needed for a cutting board by pouring a measured amount of water in the desired resin spot on a board, my teacher had me skip this step and prepared a hefty amount of resin for my pour. Using the resin she prepared for me (one half Part A and a little more than half of Part B mixed together for five minutes), I poured a small bit of the resin in another cup. I then added two small scoops of Baltic Day's Pearlescent Pigment Powder in the color Silk Cocoon to the small cup of resin and then added three scoops of their Pigment Powder in the color Space to the large cup of resin. I then mixed the pigments into the resin thoroughly before pouring the Space colored resin into the board. Next, I poured a small line of the Silk Cocoon resin along one of the edges of the knot and moved it out in the shape of crashing waves using a heat gun. Then, Mrs. Morrow used a heat gun to remove the bubbles from the resin. 

First Resin Pour

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Second Resin Pour

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Post-Resin Cutting Board Completion

After letting the resin dry for 24 hrs and an additional week, I used a putty knife to pry the acrylic pieces off the cutting board and a heat gun to remove the remaning hot glue. 

Drum Sander

Following the same safety procedures and process as before, I used the drum sander to remove the excess resin from the board.

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Orbital Sanding 

I then used the orbital sander to further smooth the cutting board. Starting with an 180 grit sandpaper, I gradually made my way up to a 400 grit sandpaper. 

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Rinsing

After orbital sanding, I ran the board thoroughly under water and let dry for 24 hours to allow the board to pop and be able to be washed at home without becoming rough afterwards. 

Orbital Sanding 

I then orbital sanded the board again after the 24 hours, follwing the same procedures as before.

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The Final Product 

After orbital sanding the board, I poured Simple Nature's mineral oil in my hands and then rubbed it into every crevice and surface of the cutting board. I then set it on a piece of cardboard and allowed it to dry for 24 hours.

Problems Encountered

After the first resin pour, the resin leaked and thus did not cover all of the knot. To solve this, we did a second resin pour following the same proceedures as the first pour. 

After the second resin pour and 24 hours, the resin was still tacky and did not fully dry. To resolve this, I gave the resin a week to dry and left it outside in the direct sunlight while I was at school. Eventually, I had to drum sand the board while it was still slightly tacky, however, it turned out alright.