(SHORT REPORTS)
Category: California
 
2005
 

VARIOUS ALPINE CLIMBS IN CALIFORNIA

Mt. SHASTA, SPLIT Mountain, Mt. WHITNEY, Mt. RITTER, ROSY FINCH Peak, BRAILLE BOOK, ROYAL ARCHES


This page features some "short reports" from various minor climbs I did while I was attending university in California, before I got more heavily involved in climbing. These reports do not give a wide photo selection like most of my climbing reports, but they do provide some route beta and interesting details.



ON THIS PAGE:

ROUTE/LINK DIFFICULTY DATE CLIMBED

Color-coded:
Spring
Summer
Fall
Winter
Mt. Shasta, Casaval Ridge,
& Green Butte/Sergeant's Ridge
 
South Cascades
snow
MAY
28-29
2005

    TR #: 7
Split Mountain, North Ridge 
Sierras
3rd
SEPT
14
2005

    TR #: 13
Mt. Whitney, via the trail 
Sierras
2nd
SEPT
19
2005

   TR #: 14
Mt. Ritter, from Ediza Lake (Clyde Route?) 
Sierras
3rd
OCT
15-16
2005

   TR #: 15
Higher Cathedral Rock, Braille Book 
Yosemite
5.8+, 6 pitches, 700'
OCT
22
2005

   TR #: 16
Rosy Finch Peak, North Ridge 
Sierras
4th
NOV
24
2005

   TR #: 17
Royal Arches 
Yosemite
5.7, 16 pitches, 1400'
DEC
10
2005

   TR #: 18

South Cascades  
Mount SHASTA 
Routes: Casaval Ridge (first 2 attempts-unsuccessful) and Green Butte/Sergeant's Ridge (3rd attempt-successful!)    

Summit Elev: 14,440 ft       Rock Type: Andesite

Date:
 April 22-23, 2005        Partners: Stanford Alpine Club group  (unsuccessful)
Date: May 14-15, 2005        Partners: 
Sebastien, Jeremy, Natalie  (unsuccessful)
Date: May 28-29, 2005        Partners: Dave, Sebastien, Arthur (summit!)
Lenticular cloud on Mt. Shasta, a common sight (weather tends to move in nearly every day).
Brief trip report:
While I was going to school in California, my university's alpine club arranged a mountaineering workshop involving a climb of Casaval Ridge on Shasta. Unfortunately the weather prevented us from getting further than our camp at 10,000 ft. Two weeks later I convinced a few friends to go back and try to summit on Casaval Ridge, but again bad weather stopped us, this time at about 13,000 ft. Two weeks after that, I was back again, this time for a successful summit via Green Butte/Sergeant's Ridge. There were whiteout conditions for the last half of the climb, but I was determined to make the summit this time. Sergeant's Ridge was a nice route, lacking the crowds of the popular Avalanche Gulch.

Sierra Nevada Mountains
SPLIT Mountain Route: North Ridge (3rd)      

Summit Elev: 14,058 ft       Rock Type: Granite

Date: September 14, 2005        Partner: Josh Traube
Split Mtn. in the evening sun. We ascended the sloping north ridge.
Brief trip report:
I climbed this with a friend on the 15th day of a 21-day hike of the John Muir Trail. It was a pretty easy climb up a relatively solid talus field. It took a bit less than 2 hours, and then we hiked down and hiked 15 miles to our next campsite.

Sierra Nevada Mountains
Mount WHITNEY Route: Trail (2nd)       

Summit Elev: 14,505 ft       Rock Type: Granite

Date: September 19, 2005        Partners: Josh Traube, Paul Dehaye, Jenny Cribbs
West side of Mt. Whitney from near Guitar Lake.
Brief trip report:
I "climbed" (really, it was just a hike the way we went) this at the end of our 21-day hike of the John Muir Trail. We woke up at 2am and climbed under a full moon, reaching the summit just in time to make some tea, dive into our sleeping bags, and watch the sunrise. The hike up was all on a trail, and there were lots of people, but it is worth doing for the very fact that it is the tallest peak in the lower 48 states.

FUTURE TRIP REPORTS FOR MT. WHITNEY:

  • In July 2005, I climbed the East Buttress and East Face routes on Mt. Whitney. These were much more fun than the slog to the top via the trail. (Click links for trip report.)

Sierra Nevada Mountains 
Mount RITTER Route: from Ediza Lake (Clyde Route?) (3rd)  
    

Summit Elev: 13,143 ft       Rock Type: Schist

Date: October 15-16, 2005        Partners: Redwood Outdoors group from Stanford University
Mt. Ritter from Ediza Lake. We ascended from the left (Clyde route?).
Brief trip report:
During my undergraduate years, my friend and I led a trip for the outdoors club involving a climb of Mt. Ritter, which was about 5-6 hours drive away. I had seen Mt. Ritter while hiking the John Muir Trail, and had made a note to come back and climb it. Ten people ended up coming on the trip. The mountain involved some tricky route finding (at least I found it tricky at the time, but I didn't have the experience I have now), but we had good weather and conditions. There was some steep icy snow that we probably should not have been leading beginners up, and half of our party ended up turning around (with my friend leading them back down), while I continued to the top with a few others. We reached the top around 9am (we started at 4:30am). We then descended, packed up camp, hiked out to the cars, and drove back to school, arriving a few hours before our Monday classes began.

Yosemite 
HIGHER CATHEDRAL Rock Route: Braille Book (5.8+, 6 pitches, 700')        

Rock Type: Granite

Date: October 22, 2005        Partners: Clint Cummins, Chris Chan, Frank
Me climbing Pitch 1 of Braille Book.

Brief trip report:
One of my first multipitch climbs. (I added this brief report several years later just to be complete.)

FUTURE TRIP REPORTS FOR BRAILLE BOOK:

  • In June 2017, I again climbed Braille Book, during a 2-week trip to the Valley where I climbed several classic routes (click link for trip report).

 <-- Photo of Braille Book I took when climbing the NE Buttress of Higher Cathedral Rock in 2016. Braille Book climbs the obvious open book for 700' of awesome 5.8(+) climbing.

 <-- Route Overlay of Braille Book when I climbed the route again in June 2017.


Sierra Nevada Mountains 
ROSY FINCH Peak Route: North Ridge (4th)       

Summit Elev: 12,744 ft       Rock Type: Granite

Date: November 24, 2005        Partner: Paul Csonka
Rosy Finch Peak from the east. We ascended the north ridge on the right, which was somewhat icy.
Brief trip report:
For Thanksgiving break for my final year as an undergraduate, I headed to the mountains. A small group of us went to the Treasure Lakes area (near Bishop, CA) to do some winter mountaineering. One of the peaks I climbed while I was there was Rosy Finch. We had set out to climb Pyramid Peak, but due to a declination error on our compass and incorrect assumptions, we found ourselves on the icy and loose 4th class north ridge of Rosy Finch. Paul wisely decided to stop about half way up, and I continued to the summit without incident.

Yosemite 
ROYAL ARCHES Route: Royal Arches (5.7, 16 pitches, 1400')         

Rock Type: Granite

Date: December 10, 2005        Partner: Lukasz Fidkowski
Really nice route overlay of the 16-pitch Royal Arches route (as well as Serenity Crack and Sons of Yesterday). By Mark Thomas.

Brief trip report:
Before I graduated from university at the end of December 2005, I wanted to do one last multi-pitch Yosemite classic. My friend and I planned on Snakedike on Half Dome, but it was too snowy, so we decided instead to do the 16-pitch classic Royal Arches. We started early so we wouldn't feel pressured for time on the initial chimney pitch, which was a bit tricky and wet. After this the route was great, the weather was warm, and there were none of the usual crowds (December is the best time to climb in the Valley!). We reached the top in about 5 hours, and rappelled down the route in 3 hours.


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