Hardware


  • Shrouds
    • Uppers
    • Lowers
    • Triangle Bungee
      • An optional section of bungee cord tied across the shrouds at the top of the lower shrouds will help with spinnaker launches.  The spinnaker head has a tendency to wedge between the shrouds and mast if the hoist is faster than the tack line in.  This can damage the kite, put it in the water (going shrimping!), and just isn't fast.  The bungee should keep most launches from getting jammed; it can still need help but won't be nearly as hard to get loose.



  • Boom
    • Booms can break too!?!
    • We just broke one of our boats boom during a capsize. It clearly broke directly over the rivet holes for one of the mainsheet blocks.  Other than that the boom is in good condition.

    • I knew someone who repaired a break like that one with a wooden plug inside the boom.  But it wasn't pretty (or lightweight)!  For a replacement extrusion, you might try asking Jason Brown at http://www.whitebearboatworks.com/ about what size you'd need.
    • The boom failed there because that is (other than the gooseneck) the most loaded point (especially being mid-boom sheeted).  There have been dome dynamics involved where the boom was in compression with a solid object at that same moment, i don't know if that occurred or not, but it is no surprise that is where it failed.  A repair, unless sleeve inside the extrusion will not be a safe repair.
    • I would buy a new boom section and move all the hardware.  I'd start by checking dimensions of your existing boom and then I would check the website for Dwyer Mast.  Seems to me the have a similar or exact section


  • Blocks & Cleats
    • Backing washers
      • It seems some bolts and washers on some Johnson 18's aren't stainless.  We have yet to devise a pattern on where they are used.
      • I recently added a swivel extension for the main sheet. When I went to remove the screws of the aft-most main block on the spine, they were frozen to what I assume is an embedded aluminum plate as there were no nuts. 3 out of four broke on attempting to gently remove them. I took a while to get them off and the holes cleared. I wound up through-bolting them while worrying about centerboard clearance. I think it worked out in the end but I had about for hours into that (4 screws).  I removed the two main sheet cam-cleats on the tanks only to find completely rusted out backing washers that crumbled when turning the screws.  My pole and tack cam-cleats were pretty beat,with a broken spring in one, and would re-engage in the douse. I took these off for service and they too were backed with crumbling steel washers. As I look over the boat, most of the hardware shows signs of rust at the fasteners.
      •  I just found a rusted nut inside the mast on #181, built by JBW.  It was on the back of the vang turning block, and it was regular steel.  The other nut was stainless, so it looks like it was just a mistake.  I haven't seen any rusted hardware on my boat, #132.  But I have found a lot of galvanic corrosion in the backing plates like you did.  It looks like JBW used thick aluminum plates glassed into the deck during layup.  They were drilled and tapped for stainless bolts, which now have completely galled threads on my boat after 22 years.  I broke off several bolts while removing the spin halyard cleat and the spin pole tube flange.  I drilled out the bolts and re-tapped the holes, but what a PAIN!  I broke 6 drill bits on 5 bolts...  


  • Rudder

  • Tiller Extension

  • Centerboard

  • Hiking Straps

  • Spinnaker Bag
    • the blocks are attached to the bolts in the hull with small eyestraps - something like this:
      Link to APS:  RWO R2849

Subpages (1): Spinnaker Pole
Comments