• Shrouds
    • Uppers
    • Lowers
    • Triangle Bungee
      • An optional section of bungee cord tied across the shrouds at the top of the lower shrouds will help with spinnaker launches.  The spinnaker head has a tendency to wedge between the shrouds and mast if the hoist is faster than the tack line in.  This can damage the kite, put it in the water (going shrimping!), and just isn't fast.  The bungee should keep most launches from getting jammed; it can still need help but won't be nearly as hard to get loose.

  • Boom
    • Booms can break too!?!
    • We just broke one of our boats boom during a capsize. It clearly broke directly over the rivet holes for one of the mainsheet blocks.  Other than that the boom is in good condition.

    • I knew someone who repaired a break like that one with a wooden plug inside the boom.  But it wasn't pretty (or lightweight)!  For a replacement extrusion, you might try asking Jason Brown at http://www.whitebearboatworks.com/ about what size you'd need.
    • The boom failed there because that is (other than the gooseneck) the most loaded point (especially being mid-boom sheeted).  There have been dome dynamics involved where the boom was in compression with a solid object at that same moment, i don't know if that occurred or not, but it is no surprise that is where it failed.  A repair, unless sleeve inside the extrusion will not be a safe repair.
    • I would buy a new boom section and move all the hardware.  I'd start by checking dimensions of your existing boom and then I would check the website for Dwyer Mast.  Seems to me the have a similar or exact section

  • Outhaul
    • I broke the outhaul on Wednesday night. Not too bad considering the line is original from 1995.
      I tried to tug it tighter, since the foot was flogging a bit and just snapped it outside the boom luckily.
    • So I  took the boom off and tried to figure how to run it since I didn't know what purchase was inside.  I got:
      1. A replacement bolt for the mast end plug, since the bolt was fairly corroded.
      2. A new 4mm replacement outhaul line (15 feet) out of the sale bucket at APS ( I think it may be 5mm line, but 4 will work fine and holds in the cleat without issue) 
      3. A feeder/messenger line ( I had 18 feet which was plenty- by about 5 feet or so) 
    • I taped the feeder line to the bitter end so I could ease enough to put the floating block out the end of the boom.  This allowed me to tie the new outhaul line on.
    • Now I know that you don't need to remove the mast end toggle to replace the outhaul line (that the pin fits through to attach it to the mast),
      but I wanted to to see where the outhaul ran when it went into the boom. I got that bolt out without drilling after some WD-40 and pounding it backwards with a smaller bolt:
    • The second photo shows the fixed block bolted/screwed inside the boom where the outhaul line turns at the mast end (blurry edges are the outside of the plug still in the boom with the toggle removed. 
    • I taped the new line to the broken outhaul line with electrical tape and eased it through by pulling out the sail/clue end cable that lays inside the boom until I got the moving block out the stern end of the boom. 
    • This is what the assembly looks like (with cable crimped after it was threaded through the sheave- so if you want to replace the cable you'll need to be able to crimp it AFTER you run it through the sheave):
    • So as you can see the old line is white and the new blue line has run through this block. 
    • To to have enough line to get to the butt end of the blue line I had to keep pulling, so I taped a red messenger line to the other end of the new blue outhaul line:
    • Untape and tie the new outhaul line to the block, then just put the block back into the boom and pull it all back snug being careful to not unstick/separate the messenger from the new line until it's back out of the pinch cleat near the mast end of the boom... easy!
      5^3 skipper

  • Blocks & Cleats
    • Backing washers
      • It seems some bolts and washers on some Johnson 18's aren't stainless.  We have yet to devise a pattern on where they are used.
      • I recently added a swivel extension for the main sheet. When I went to remove the screws of the aft-most main block on the spine, they were frozen to what I assume is an embedded aluminum plate as there were no nuts. 3 out of four broke on attempting to gently remove them. I took a while to get them off and the holes cleared. I wound up through-bolting them while worrying about centerboard clearance. I think it worked out in the end but I had about for hours into that (4 screws).  I removed the two main sheet cam-cleats on the tanks only to find completely rusted out backing washers that crumbled when turning the screws.  My pole and tack cam-cleats were pretty beat,with a broken spring in one, and would re-engage in the douse. I took these off for service and they too were backed with crumbling steel washers. As I look over the boat, most of the hardware shows signs of rust at the fasteners.
      •  I just found a rusted nut inside the mast on #181, built by JBW.  It was on the back of the vang turning block, and it was regular steel.  The other nut was stainless, so it looks like it was just a mistake.  I haven't seen any rusted hardware on my boat, #132.  But I have found a lot of galvanic corrosion in the backing plates like you did.  It looks like JBW used thick aluminum plates glassed into the deck during layup.  They were drilled and tapped for stainless bolts, which now have completely galled threads on my boat after 22 years.  I broke off several bolts while removing the spin halyard cleat and the spin pole tube flange.  I drilled out the bolts and re-tapped the holes, but what a PAIN!  I broke 6 drill bits on 5 bolts...  

  • Rudder

  • Tiller Extension

  • Centerboard

  • Hiking Straps

  • Spinnaker Bag
    • the blocks are attached to the bolts in the hull with small eyestraps - something like this:
      Link to APS:  RWO R2849

Subpages (1): Spinnaker Pole