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Polly's Cove - Warm-up

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Great late fall/early spring location. Very protected area from northern winds with great southern exposure.


1. Fountation V13 
This climb is a PhD thesis in beta. Please see Dr. Smith's dissertation below. (FA Ben Smith 2017)

Start right hand on the good hold left a bit lower on a bad crimp. Far left foot on the good ledge but in from the good bit. Right on the obvious foot. Hard pull into a savage drop knee then hit the small left hold with a good thumb catch. Adjust the feet and do a big move up with the left to hit the bad hold in the crack with the left ring finger in the good spot. Pinch the low hold and pull the left foot off. Heinous cut. Then step up onto the foot. Do a greasy toehook. Hard move out right to the bad crimp. Get the thumb. Higher gross toe hook to do a left bump into the good hold. Make sure to cheat and get your pinky jammed inthe corner of the hold match. Big foot out left. Then the end is easish.

3. Iron Hide V7 
Comfortable holds, large flowing moves, intimidating scale and committing but secure topout. This thing is magnificent. 



1. Aeroplan V3
Balance and crimp your way up the tallest part of the scooped face to a committing top out. Great climb but not for the faint of heart.

2. Poultry V0
Follow crack up and left



3. Country Sausage V5
Starting on the low jug, traverse the entire lip

4. Minigo SDS V3
Climb the diagonal seam

5. George Foreman Grill SDS V5
Climb straight up unique features

6. Straddle Struggle V3 SDS
Climb up the arete.



7. Warm-up Crack SDS V0
Start low and traverse either crack up and right. Bottom crack slightly more difficult.

8. Lower Crack V0

9. Lie Back Crack V0

10. Pinch a Loaf V2
Hug your way up the protruding column.

11. Jam Crack V3
Stick your hands in the crack and suffer your way to the top.

12. Big Tuna V7 https://youtu.be/ZRO-_CsnTXs
Starts in the the huge horizontal crack on the right of the arete, work to standing, grab the high sloper / pinches and come out onto face. Mantle topout is disturbingly devoid of holds.

13. Baby Crack V0

14. Shitbag Shorty V1
Climb straight up pillar to the right of Big Tuna. Use only pillar.


13a. Split Crow V7 SDS https://youtu.be/AIDN7wYidhQ 
Found in the gully 50 meters past the warm-up area, start under mini roof, hard transition to arete.



16. The Banana Holder V0
Warm-up for Le Contortioniste - exit early before the business begins.

17. Le Contortioniste V7 
Start at the far right and traverse left to the corner then up crack. Weird and workable.
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