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LOC - Nouveau Riche



Problems 1 - 5 are on the first boulder encountered when hiking in



1. Levitate V8 SDS https://youtu.be/KEW8tHvfYZA
Sharp crimps up the short corner. (FA by Ben Blakney 2003)



2. Kirbatron V6 SDS 
https://youtu.be/3gZYM0LR0so
Jugs to slopers then TO. Tricky!



3. Dynamitus V7 https://youtu.be/0hkfmFmMSmI
Right hand pinching arete, left hand crimp. Balancy moves up arete. Left edges are in for feet.  (FA G. Losier 2000)

4. Dynamitus SDS V9  
Impossibly scrunchy start hanging under the bulge, and crux transition to standing. (FA G. Losier 2000)

5. When Bitter and Ugly Meet V2 https://youtu.be/wc-ypkYuQFw
Straight up the face on good edges. As good as it gets. 



6. The Preview V4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=374e3ZcvGjk
Left hand sloping arete right hand crimp to start. Fight the barn door, slap something with the right hand, then tricky top-out.



7. La Sacree Volee V5 SDS https://youtu.be/HA_ctFJbvNY
Scrunch fest up short corner. 

Main Cluster



8. Nouveau Itch V8 SDS
Start sitting both hands on side pull. Cryptic transition to arete baffled climbers for a decade. For full enjoyment, try it without beta. (FA G. Losier 2000)



9. Nouveau Riche V1 https://youtu.be/DllMKpo3ay0
Up crack. 



10. BK McMuffin V4 https://youtu.be/q4OwA205a1s
Face just right of the crack. Technical face or powerful dyno, depending on your tastes. If you end up in the the crack for Nouveau Riche you got lost. Can sit to start, but doesn't add much.

11. Alpha Female V4 
Climb the slab straight up between BK McMuffin and La Force Du Sang on very thin crystals and small edges to top out on slopers.



12. True Blood V5 SDS https://youtu.be/xydTFhqC2G4 
Starts on the crimps, balancy moves using both aretes, crimps, and tricky feet to sloper on the lip and up.

13. La Force Du Sang V7 SDS https://youtu.be/mRhR1f1ciJA
Eliminate and morpho. Starts on the crimps, crank to the big hold on the arete and continue up it. Right arete is out.



14. Hoofmaker V6 SDS https://youtu.be/sK9RDi8MSWA
Starting on the small crimps inside the cave, climb over lip and committing slab topout. Sharp.

15. Miss Steak V3 https://youtu.be/LAYknaSVbBs
Climb up the face with pleasant diagonal holds.

The small boulder at the far end of the area.


16. La Vie En Rose V3 https://youtu.be/rQwtbKDURIo 
Balancy moves up the small boulder. Can be done as SDS for the same grade.

Backside of the main boulders


17. Can I have a Drum Roll V5 SDS
Starting from obvious low hold traverse left to right. A true butt dragger.


18. Smoke on the Water V1 SDS https://youtu.be/Vf_yMwX4LOU
Start from low holds and climb short face. Climbs better if you don't use the arete.


19. Imogen V6 SDS https://youtu.be/WpS6ug5j2OE
Crimp hard to get off the ground and it's all over. Left hand undercling helps. Stacking pads is only cheating yourself.
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