Joiner photography is one of the ways in which photography becomes akin to traditional art. Photography fought for many years to be seen as a legitimate art form, primarily through showcasing that photography is equivalent to traditional art. Joiner photography is one way in which we can associate images with other types of mediums- as this is where photography meets collage!
Joiner photography is so much more than taking a bunch of photographs and slapping them together to call it ‘art’. Joiner photography is a way of thinking, and tends to be done in a specific fashion to count as a legitimate joiner. Here is our guide to joiner photography!
Joiner photography really is the fusion between collage and photographs. In layman terms, joiner photography describes a specific art style that involves the use of two or more separately taken images of a single scene to create a larger one by physically overlapping them or by digitally merging them. You may have seen joiner photography in art galleries or as street art.
This type of photography came about in the early 1980’s by English painter David Hockney. Hockney began creating intricate photo collages that he called “joiners”. His earlier collages consisted of grid-like compositions made up of polaroid photographs. He then switched to 35mm film photographs and created collages, intended to create more abstract representations of the scenes he had photographed.
Joiner photography is as much a feeling as it is a visual representation.
You have TWO classes to complete this project.
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British artist and photographer David Hockney is partly best-known for his photography work in the early 1980s, where he created photo collages (called "joiners"). These were made using Polaroid snaps of a single subject, taken from multiple perspectives and at slightly different times, that were then manually assembled to create something very similar to cubism, the art form made famous by Pablo Picasso.
Take a look:
Alternative Joiner Ideas
REQUIREMENTS FOR SHOOTING:
- Choose whatever subject you like- person, place, object, etc... (see ideas below)
- Shoot 2 different scenes, with a MINIMUM OF 40+ PHOTOS FOR EACH. (80 TOTAL) More is always better.
- ZOOM IN and shoot CLOSE UP shots of different fragments of your subject.
- Shoot the entire scene, try shooting a whole row across the top of your subject, then shoot a whole row below that, then below that, etc until you know you've covered you're whole subject.
- Each shot should OVERLAP the next, so that you don't have any gaps in your final piece.
- Don't move from where you are standing during the entire time you are shooting. Keep your zoom the same as well.
- Try tilting your camera left or right as you shoot to get interesting angles.
HOW TO MAKE THEM IN PHOTOSHOP
GRID STYLE AND COLLAGE STYLE BELOW
GRID STYLE
File-New-
10 inchs width
10 in height
150 Resolution
Background White
Step 2:
Go to View – New Guide Layout
Step 3:
Columns 4
Rows 4
Color Light Blue
Delete any numbers in the Gutter boxes
Step 4:
Pick the Rectangle Tool Shape
Make the Fill Black
Make Stroke white box with red line threw it
Step 5:
Draw a black box in the first square
Leave a LITTLE room around the edges of the photo.
Step 6:
Double click on the layer name
Rename this layer P1 (will stand for photo 1)
Step 7:
Right Click on Layer P1
Duplicate Layer
You have now made a second box ontop of the first box
Step 8:
Select the Move Tool
Move the second box to the new square on the graph
Step 9:
Double click on P1 Copy layer’s name
Rename this layer P2 (will stand for photo 2)
Step 10:
Right Click on Layer P2
Duplicate Layer
You have now made a third box ontop of the second box
Drag the new box over into the 3rd square
Step 11:
Double click on P2 Copy layer’s name
Rename this layer P3 (will stand for photo 3)
Step 12:
Continue the same steps until you have filled in every square.
You will have 17 layers at this time
Background and p1-p16
STOP!!!!!!! Save your project at this time so you don’t lose all your work
Save it as
Polaroid
PSD file type
Step 13:
We are now going to be adding the photos into the graph
Click on Layer P1
Go to File – Place Embedded
Step 14:
Find the folder where you put your Hockney Images
Pick the photo that you want for the first square
Click to open it
Step 15:
The photo will appear behind the boxes in the middle
Drag it to the top left box
Make it about the same size at the box
We will be making this photo fit into the box in the next step
Step 16:
The photo you just placed into the graph should be directly ontop of layer P1.
If the photo is not ontop of layer P1, drag it so that it is.
Right click on the photo layer above P1
Pick Create Clipping Mask
This will place your photo inside the black box
Step 17:
We are now going to be adding the second photo
Click on Layer P2
You MUST be on Layer P2
Go to File – Place Embedded
Step 18:
The photo will appear behind the boxes in the middle
Drag it to the second box on the top of the graph
Make it about the same size at the box
We will be making this photo fit into the box in the next step
Step 19:
The photo you just placed into the graph should be directly ontop of layer P2.
If the photo is not ontop of layer P2, drag it so that it is.
Right click on the photo layer direction above P2
Pick Create Clipping Mask
This will place your photo inside the 2nd black box
Step 20:
You will be adding continue adding photos using the upove steps until the graph if filled
It is ok if the images look like they don’t fit. You want them to look like they do not line up perfectly.
NOTE:
In order for your photos to fit into the correct black box
Your photo Must ALWAYS be on the layer directly upove the black box
Example:
If you are on layer P5, make sure your 5th photo layer is directly above P5 before you Create Clipping Mask.
Step 21:
File>Save a Copy for Google Classroom
This may be in color or black and white.
Step 1:
You will be Creating a blank canvas in Photoshop to put all the photos onto
File-New-
11 inchs width
17 in height
300 Resolution
Background White
Step 2:
File > Place Embedded> Choose a photo from the Hockney folder
Step 3
Select the Move Tool and begin to drag each photo onto the blank canvas
They do not need to match up perfectly
They should be a little off
Step 4:
To create interest in your project, rotate a couple images
click “Control and T”
Step 5:
We are now going to add a shadow under the photo so they look 3D
Click on your layer 1
Click the fx button at the bottom of the layers pallet
Click the Drop Shadow button
Step 6:
Make settings:
Distance 25-35 px
Spread 6-12 %
Size 5 px
You will now see a small shadow at the bottom of your image
Step 7:
Repeat step 7 and 8 to all layers
Step 8:
When you are finished
Crop off all the extra space around the photos
You may change the background color if you would like
File >Save a Copy for Google Classroom