How it's done

By far the question I'm most often asked about the woodworking seen in my shop here in Morgantown, WV is whether or not it is done in layers, with individually cut pieces stacked upon each other. The short answer is 'no', inasmuch as the cutouts are all done from a single slab of wood, similar in nature to the way a jigsaw puzzle is cut out, only thicker. 
 
The technique is formally called Segmented Relief Portraiture. I give credit to The Pattern Companion: Scroll Saw by Dirk Boelman, Kerry Shirts, and Patrick Spielman for introducing me to it and highly recommend this wonderful book for beginner and intermediate woodworkers.
 
Below is an example of the process I use to create more advanced works. This example is featured in Designing Obama: The Book  (in press as of this writing) and the final product was awarded First Place in the 2009 Obamamania Contest on ArtBistro.com (note that two distinct Obama works are represented in the photographs below in order to provide a more complete description of the process).
 
 
Step 1: The pattern 
The first step is to obtain a cutout template suitable for use. For beginners, several pattern books are commercially available such as The Pattern Companion mentioned above. In the present example, a full color digital image taken by the Washington Post (obama_2008_kwed) was first converted to a pattern using a filter within Adobe Photoshop Elements 4.0. This limited color image was then highlighted and modified by hand-drawing to separate segments which are of the same color and hence were grouped together, but which it is desirable to have placed at differing depths in the final model. This image was then glued onto a wood plaque approximately 1/2" thick and allowed to dry.
 
 
 
 Step 2: The cutout
 
Using an ordinary scroll saw, the wood is next cut into pieces according to the pattern obtained in step 1. I prefer using a spiral blade for this purpose which allows cuts to be made in all directions with minimal rotation of the workpiece. Patience is the name of the game here as the blade cannot be rushed. Make sure you 'tune' it to the proper tension (I do this by sound). You'll find it difficult at first to visualize the cuts and the easiest path through them, particularly when the pieces are very small. Don't give up in despair however if the blade steers off the track slightly as you'll find the final image is very forgiving.
 
 
 
 
Step 3: Assemble the pieces and remove the pattern
Referring to a copy of the pattern (or from scatch if you enjoy the challenge of a good puzzle), reassemble the cut pieces to recreate the image. For very complex patterns, you may find it necessary to reassemble the pieces into a box or frame immediately following the cuts. Depending on the adhesive used for the pattern (I use a spray type), brush a liberal amount of paint thinner (or the appropriate solvent) onto the assembled pieces. After a short soaking period, you can gently scrape the paper off of the wood and wipe off any excess adhesive with a small rag or paper towel soaked in paint thinner. Then a light sanding with fine grit sandpaper should leave a smooth, stainable surface.

 

Step 4: Group the wood pieces according to color
Again using the cutout pattern as a reference, pull the pieces apart into like colors. Choose stains which mimic those in the pattern when possible and substitute when necessary. Getting creative in your use of colors such as alcohol-based inks or food coloring can also lead to excellent results by coloring without masking the underlying wood grain. Stain the wood pieces in groups using a small tray of stain to save time. Allow the pieces to dry for at least 8-12 hours before attempting reassembly to avoid accidental cross-staining.
 
 
 
 
 

 

Step 5: Assemble the pieces and render in 3D
 
 
 
 
Once the stained pieces are dried and reassebled, the image already begins to come alive (left image above), perhaps simply because the segmented pieces are now distinguishable to the eye. To assemble in 3D, it is necessary to glue the pieces together from the backside. I put a small bead of glue between adjoining surfaces using a quick-drying white glue formulation. After a short drying time, more pieces can be added to a growing segment (the forehead, for instance) and the layers adjusted relative to one another. Unfortunately there is no recipe for this procedure and I suspect it can only be mastered through trial and error. I highlight error since I think what often stops people from experimenting on their own is a fear of making mistakes which ruin the entire effort. It is necessary to overcome this fear using this technique since it is, you'll find, impossible to truly represent the image in all of its natural depth. I gave away one of the first pieces I ever did as I was not happy with it but heard that the current owner loves it, which just goes to show you I guess!