Merlot

The Zymurgist

There have been requests from some of our readers for an introduction to wine tasting. We will use Merlot as our example and talk our way through a tasting.

To get the most enjoyment out of wine we need to know something about the wine we are tasting.  Merlot is one of the main grapes in the Bordeaux district and is one of the most widely planted black grapes in France.  It is a close relative to Cabernet Sauvignon, although with lower tannin.  Tannic acid is what makes some young wines ‘puckery’ on the tongue. Merlot is often blended with Cabernet to soften the wine and make it ready to drink sooner.  The St. Emilion wines are mostly merlot, but traditionally merlot has been a blending grape, used to soften and balance more acidic varieties.

 

Several years ago many California wineries started selling Merlot as a varietal (a wine named after the grape that makes up at least 75% of the wine). Its popularity has grown steadily. Now some French vintners are also selling Merlot as a varietal.

 

We could sit alone in a corner and drink our Merlot out of a paper cup, but we will get more enjoyment from a bit of ceremony and by engaging all the senses. Invite some friends – a bottle holds about six glasses, so get six people and three bottles. My team of volunteers tasted the 2003 Fat Bastard merlot, a French wine, and the 2002 Beaulieu Vineyards merlot from California. Both of these are available locally.

 

The first sense we are going to engage is sight. Dress your table with a white tablecloth. This will give you a good background for the color of your wine. You don’t need lead crystal goblets – glass will do, but make it clear glass and glasses with a stem. Try to have enough glasses so that everyone has a glass for each of the wines you taste. 

 

Candles aren’t really necessary but they add to the atmosphere and make it possible for you to look through the wine at a light source. 

 

Since we are focused on the wine keep the hors d’oeuvres simple – some good olives, toasted hazelnuts, and maybe a little dark chocolate will bring out the flavors in most red wines. 

 

It is somewhat unorthodox but I suggest not opening the wine until the guests arrive. The wine will change over the first half hour it is open – pay attention to the changes.

 

Pour 1 – 2 ounces of wine into the glasses. A wine glass should never be filled more than halfway, to the widest point of the glass. The upper half of the glass is for aroma. We will start with much less than that.

 

Examine the color of the wine. Take your time, look through the wine at the white tablecloth; tilt the glass and see how the color changes from where it is shallow near the brim to where it is deepest; see how looking through the wine at the candles brings out the clarity. Try to describe the color. Is it a cherry red, or a brick red, or a purple red?

 

Next smell your wine. Put your nose right into the glass and smell it. Now swirl the glass and smell it again. Try to get past the first smells of ‘wine’ and pick out the touches of other scents. Is it more like cherries or blackberries? Is there a smell underneath like leather or the rich, dark smell of cigars? Some wines have an aroma like a cedar chest; others are like a bowl of fresh fruit. Do you get the same hints that your friends do?

 

Now take a sip. Don’t swallow yet; let the flavor fill your mouth. Where do you taste the wine the most? In the front of your mouth, or the back, or all over? Purse your lips as if you were going to whistle, but pull air in instead. This will bring out more flavors.

 

When you swallow you will get the aftertaste. Often this is similar to the aroma, but there can be bitter notes, or a reminder of chocolate, or other flavors that you haven’t noticed before.

 

Now try another of the wines. What is the same? What is different? Try how the olives and nuts bring out different flavors.

 

After you have tasted all the wines try them again with dinner.  Grill a London Broil and serve it with a red wine and mushroom sauce. Slice a yam and grill it along with the beef. Or instead, serve roast duck with a cherry sauce. Either of these will bring out new flavors in the wines and make for a wonderful wine-tasting evening!

 

Tasting notes:

 

2003 Fat Bastard Merlot $10?

The color of the FB was a dark red with a tinge of brick. The aroma was a sort of generic ‘winey’ aroma with a lot of alcohol. The flavor had a surprising amount of tannin for a merlot with pleasant cherry notes. The aftertaste was a bit thin, with strong alcohol. This one was definitely better with food.

 

2002 Beaulieu Vineyards Merlot $10?

Again, the color was a dark red with a bit of brick red. The aroma was strongly cherry. The flavor filled the mouth with a soft wine without a lot of tannin. The sugar-acid balance was good. The aftertaste was more cherry with a little underlying bitterness, a little note of cedar.

 

Next time we will try some Rieslings, a sweeter white wine. As always, comments and suggestions are welcome!