Living Willow Maintenance

Monthly or every time you are in or around the structure weave in any side growth. Tuck it in and out going sideways but make sure it rises by at least 5 degrees towards the tip, willow sap does not travel down hill well. Try and avoid watering unless the spring and summer are very dry in which case flood the structure with as much water as you can for 24 hours then leave it for a week. Then do it again. If you water a little and often it will only encourage roots close to the surface and the structures will always be susceptible to droughts. Keep weaving in shoots need to be about 10”+ before they will stay where you put them but if they get to big they will not bend into the structure and will break. Don’t worry if they do break as two more shoots will come from the break point. If you suspect the rod has got to big to weave in the cut it off. If its not in the way then leave it until the winter trim. Try and keep the half-meter strip around the willow stems weed and grass free, use mulch if you have some. During summer you are likely to see big fat willow aphids feeding on the stems they are unsightly but not dangerous. Squish them or knock them off with a jet of water or just enjoy watching them. In late summer and early winter again if you have had a good infestation of aphids you may well see a black fungus on the bark of the willow this is just a mould growing on the aphid honey dew secretion and is not harmful to the willow. You will see many other bugs and wildlife on the willow it is second only to the Oak tree in the number of creatures that feed on it. Apart from some virus’s there is little that will kill the willow mostly it will just slow its growth. Always trim back any other vegetation that will throw shade on to the willow – they leave the sunshine. Once the leaves have dropped and before the buds break its time to go out and give the structure a good weave in. Then trim any big growth that you can’t weave in back to the original stem. Use the bigger trimmed off rods to replace any rods that have died. Leave the original dead rod in place insert the new rod butt 1st down through the binders butt 1ist along side it. Make a new hole 12” deep push in the replacement rod and firm the soil around it. Any remaining rods can be planted into new structures or dried out for 6 weeks and then used for weaving baskets etc.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR CARE OF DRY WILLOW PRODUCTS

(horizontal weave, in living willow fence)

 

Willow products for outside use are generally made in “greens”, “browns” or steamed willow to extend their life they should be treated as often as possible with a wood preserver.

 

If made in greens (freshly cut willow) wait for the willow to dry out, (several weeks) before treating.

 

If made in browns or steamed willow the willow has been soaked in order to weave it will need a week or so in dry conditions before it is sufficiently dried out to treat.

 

To  extend the life of the hurdle, this should be painted on after the hurdle has had time to dry, depending on weather conditions a few weeks to a few months. here are three types of preservative that can be used, a light coloured creosote which has a harsher action and is not plant friendly, or a water based preservative which is plant friendly but not as effective. Alternatively the traditional method of preserving willow is to lightly paint a mixture of boiled linseed oil and traditional turpentine 50/50, It is a good idea to paint the fence once a year in dry conditions for maximum longevity.

 

 

                                                                                    Untreated                               Treated                  

Outdoor plant supports                                        2 to 3 years                          3 to 5 

Fencing                                                                     3 to 4 years                          4 to 8 years

    

For further information can be found at