 Ignition system is standard 12V. However to start the car, the VW starter can only just turn the engine, less so when hot. Ignition key is turned to on (12V to coil) then you press the "start" button. This closes a high current relay placed between 2 batteries. These 2 batteries are now connected in series to the starter so it gets 24V (the ignition system is still only wired across the 12V primary battery). Starter spins and engine fires. Releasing the "start" button leaves car running on the primary 12V battery as normal. The secondary battery (just for starting) is kept charged as the 2 batteries are charged by a caravan/motorhome split charger system designed to keep a leisure battery topped up. Both batteries have a race type red key disconnect system on them and are kept topped up in garage using battery conditioner type "intelligent" trickle chargers for classic cars - designed to be left on car all the time when stored over winter.
    The "Line lock" above column is relic from the distant past. Drag racers use them to lock front wheels during burnouts of rear wheels. This isn't why this car has one though. At that time (it was argued) one could use it as a handbrake by applying footbrake then "locking" in the pressure to the front slave cylinders. American cars and mercedes use a form of foot pedal hydraulic parking brake system after all. This "argument" was unsuccesful however! At the moment it acts as a "spare" parking brake mechanism. I may well remove it.
New wiring loom........."as seen on TV"
It must be quite simple really............
  Loom was from "Premier Wiring" and was about £130. It is designed for rear engined cars and is quite comprehensive. You have to buy the flasher relay and hazard flasher (Hella switch with integrated electronic flasher) as extra items. The Hella hazard switch from the same company is about £27, plugs straight into the loom and has its own integrated electronic flasher unit.
 Instructions are reasonably easy to understand. I spent an evening making a paper label for the end of every single wire before I started to try to fit it.
 Indicator mount with a flat backed indicator (easier to fix than the conventional Mini style ones with projection on the back that requires you to make a large hole).Light pods need painting!
 Closer view.
 The strange 24V starter wiring arrangement and ignition circuits were retained from original loom and are all mounted on the vertical side panel.
The new loom fuses, flasher module etc are all mounted on the flat part to try to keep them distinct from each other.
It might look messy but is much better than the previous mass of spaghetti. Everything here is just loosely fitted with cable ties until I am happy everything is working properly.
 Line lock has been removed. Simple switch on right of steering wheel is for Mainbeam / Dip.
 Indicator bulbs replaced with ones that have logos on them. Where possible all wires soldered directly to bulb units instead of spade connectors.
Grubby yellow vinyl cleaned up really well with baby wipes.
 Light bulb holders in instruments all have wires directly soldered to them for better reliability.
 Wires to dash warning lights are all connected to loom via a multi way plug from Maplins. Rest of wires to dash instruments are via an 8 way plug supplied in the loom. This means I can just undo a couple of plugs and take entire dash off with intruments, lights and switches still in it if I ever have to find a fault in the future.
 Side repeater.
 Fan wiring tidied up.
 New central high level brake light. |