Molecular Gastronomy (science) and various applications
Important observation :
Molecular Gastronomy is science, not cooking!!!!!!
Please use the right words : Gastronomy is knowledge, but Cooking is cooking.
1.
Research done by the INRA Team of Molecular
Gastronomy (UMR 214 INRA AgroParisTech)
2. Works done by the Foundation Science &
Culture Alimentaire
3.
The
diffusion initiatives
3.1. Conférences announced on the INRA
internet site,
3.2. INRA monthly Seminars of Molecular gastronomy
3.3.
Courses on Molecular
Gastronomy
3.4. The monthly invention given to Pierre Gagnaire
(technology application)
3.5.
Workshops of Molecular Gastronomy
3.6. The Club 05 of Molecular Gastronomy
3.7. The Institute for Advanced Studies in
Gastronomy
3.8.
The Ateliers expérimentaux du goût (Flavour Experimental
Sessions)
3.9. The Ateliers Science & Cuisine (Science and Cooking
Sessions)
4.
Annexes
4.1. Prehistory and history of Molecular Gastronomy
4.2. Some restaurants where you can eat
Molecular Cooking
4.3. List of companies where
additives, flavour preparations, colorants and hardware can be bought.
4.4. More about all that
- Research
done by the INRA Team of Molecular Gastronomy (UMR 214 INRA AgroParisTech)
;)
Molecular
Gastronomy is a scientific discipline that was created in 1988 in the gap between
food science, that care mostly of the composition and the properties of food
ingredients, and the science of food processes, that studied primarily
industrial processes (there was nothing about soufflés, béarnaise, coq au vin,
etc. that billions of people cook daily !).
It’s scientific
programme is today:
·
Explore (scientifically) the social component of
cooking
·
Explore (scientifically) the art component of cooking
·
Explore the technical component of cooking
(definitions and culinary precisions)
Some works currently done at the lab (this is a list,
for the rationale, see the Rapport d’activité)
Ordinary
science :
·
Vegetable
stock formation
·
The variations in color of green vegetables during
cooking (Juan Valverde)
·
Cooking wines (Robert Méric)
·
Meat stocks (Robert Méric)
·
Safron color during cooking (Juan Valverde,
Jean-Baptiste Sauvet)
·
Onions
in sauces (Audrey Tardieu)
·
Foaming
·
Marinade
(Laurent Vincent)
·
Flambage
(Jérôme Klingenfus)
·
Molecular
transferts in potato tissues (Rachel
Edouard-Stuart, Anne
Matignon)
·
More.
Conceptual
questions :
·
NMR
studies of gels
·
Modelling the mass transfers from animal and plant
tissues (Hervé This)
·
Complex Disperse Systems Modelling (H. This)
·
More.
Applications:
·
Science
education (Hervé This and Marie-Claude Feore)
·
Ateliers
expérimentaux du goût
(Hervé This and Marie Claude Féore)
·
More.
Our tools
NMR
spectroscopy (300 MHz)
UV-visible
spectroscopy
Infrared
spectroscopy
Front-Face
Fluorescence
Capillary
Electrophoresis
GC/MS
SDS/PAGE
HPLC
HPLS/MS
Microscopy (optical,
fluorescence)
Colorimetry
Viscosimetry
Texture
Analysis
Thermometry
Gravimetry
FT-ICP-MS
- Works of the Foundation Science & Culture
Alimentaire
;)
The Foundation Science & Culture
Alimentaire (Académie
des sciences) : a foundation to develop culture and
researches around cooking
http://www.inra.fr/fondation_science_culture_alimentaire
http://www.academie-sciences.fr/fondations/FSCA.htm
More about what
we are doing :
http://www.blackwell-synergy.com/doi/full/10.1111/j.1541-4337.2006.00003.x
- Scientific culture diffusion
3.1. Conferences, given on the internet site of INRA
The Internet site of INRA includes a
section devoted to Molecular Gastronomy with links with many sites where works
are reported :
http://www.inra.fr/la_science_et_vous/apprendre_experimenter/gastronomie_moleculaire
A list of
lecture is given, with contacts.
3.2. Monthly INRA Seminars of Molecular Gastronomy
Goals: at this seminars, cooks, scientists, teachers and
ingeniees can meet to discuss the major open questions about cooking (mostly
home or restaurants).
Frequency: once a month (each third Thursday of the month, except during July and
August)), from 4.00 to 6.00 PM.
Place:
Ecole supérieure de cuisine française (ESCF), Centre Jean Ferrandi (Chambre de
commerce de Paris), 28 rue de l’Abbé Grégoire, 75006 Paris
Number of participants:
limited to
about one hundred
Participation: free and open (but please send your email in case of
agenda changes), except for « Extraordinary Events »
Description: each seminar has three parts :
1.
Introduction, various questions.
2. The
experiments done by participants since the last seminar are discussed
3. The topic of
the month is discussed, with protocoles designed in common, and experiments
done in front of the audience.
Participants
say which kind of experiments they will do (culinary tests for the cooks,
scientific experiments for scientists).
Importance: this seminar is important for
-
Making
more rational culinary processes
-
Improve
the culinary curriculum
-
Create
collaborations between cooks
-
Add some research component to the culinary curriculum
-
Give new phenomena that scientist can explore
-
Show new products, ingredients, methods
Secrétariat : Ghislaine
Pinchaud, ECSF Ferrandi, +33 (0)1 49 54
17 00
Animation :
Hervé
THIS, INRA Team of Gastronomie
moléculaire, UMR 214
INRA/AgroParisTech, herve.this@paris.inra.fr
Reports: they are given on the internet site of the Société Chimique de France, http://www.sfc.fr/ (look in « Les dossiers » ; go to «
disciplines scientifiques », click
on « Groupe Chimie des aliments et du goût » and, at the bottom of
the page, click on « seminars »).
3.3. Courses on Molecular Gastronomy (from experiments to calculation)
Organization: isabelle.caillard@agroparistech.fr
Description: http://www.agroparistech.fr/spip.php?rubrique1085
http://www.figaroetudiant.com/formation_dossiers/20041014.FIG0567.html
These courses are public,
open to everybody, free, but no diploma is given. Each year, a new topic is
chosen (the main work of Hervé This), and a book is produced (Quae/Belin, Paris).
1. Why they
are needed :
For about ten years, some courses on Molecular Gastronomy were given in
various universities and in the industry.
Three kind of people are interested:
• Cooks, general audience: people with no scientific
education, whose aim is not science.
• Students: students at various levels of science (undergraduate,
graduate, PhD) from various disciplines: biochemistry, molecular physical
chemistry, chemistry…
• Engineers from the food industry, scientists
2. The goals :
For all these
people, some specific courses are given. In particular specific concepts are
given to these three audiences.
For example,
the chefs ask more for innovative techniques; students need scientific methods,
and engineers ask for a method for technology transfer. This is given… behind
the specific notions of the year.
As a
consequence, the following goals are decided:
n For chefs and
for the general audience, the interest of physical and chemical knowledge is
shown (without calculation), in relation with the description of culinary
transformations.
Also
given:
- The technical basis of innovation and culinary
creativity ;
- A hint of why the molecular interpretation is
useful for the food industry ;
- A demonstration that fundamental knowledge is
important for innovation and creativity
- A scientific training for people from the food
industry
- A contribution for initial education of
technicians who want to work in the food industry
More precisely,
the audience will learn:
- How to identify data and variables in the frame
of a simple analysis
- How to define objectives (which information are
needed) and to look for useful methods for solving the problems studied
- How to apply some simple statistical tests, how to interpret the results of these
tests
- How to make sample analysis in practice
- Which are the elementary processes, which are the
elementary to apply for a certain goal
- Which are the control parameters of the basic
processes (for example, in cooking: tools, methods, key parameters,
limits, effects…)
- How to define and apply protocols
- How to read a process scheme
- Which are the functional properties of
ingredients
- What is the organization of the basic complex
disperse systems?
n For students, it is show how precise
knowledge comes from a quantitative investigation of problems.
Among the
goals, it will be shown:
- What
is science
- How technology is different from science
- Why some scientific background is useful for
technology
- What
is the experimental method
- How to use molecular interpretations
- How to design a scientific strategy
More
specifically:
- A first order physical and chemical description
of foodstuffs
- How to make an experiment
- How to use a “protocol sheet”
- How to make a bibliography survey
- How to plan an experiment
- How to make measurements
- How to chose a measurement method
- How to interpret them
- How to make “laws”
- Why this is not enough
- How to produce theories, and how to refute them
- How to transmit new knowledge (oral, written)
n For engineers/scientists, a reflexion on
innovation is proposed, as well as the discussion of the relationship between
science and technology.
What will also
be done:
- A promotion of the molecular reasoning in
formulation activities
- Why fundamental knowledge is important for
technology
- Continued
education
- Analytical reflection on food innovation.
Some advanced
chemical and physical information will be given, as well as a discussion on
aesthetics.
More
specifically, it will be shown :
- How to formulate a product using a mixing plan
- How to use knowledge on elementary processes
- How to question existing methods and processes
- How to find the limits of the already used
processes
- How to use new ingredients with specific functional
properties
3. Practical
information :
• Place :
All courses are
given at AgroParisTech, in Paris.
• Agenda :
For the year 2008, the agenda will be :
|
Chefs,
general audience,
|
21 January 2008
|
21 January
2008
|
|
Students in
science
|
6 March
|
12 March
|
|
Engineers
and scientists
|
|
|
Each Course is one day long, as in:
|
9h00 - 9h15
|
Welcome
|
|
9h15 - 10h45
|
Session
1
|
|
10h45 - 11h00
|
Break
|
|
11h00 - 12h30
|
Session 2
|
|
12h30 - 14h00
|
Lunch
|
|
14h00 - 15h30
|
Session 3
|
|
15h30 – 15h45
|
Break
|
|
15h45 - 17h15
|
Session 4
|
Applications :
Please apply
to:
Isabelle
Caillard
Direction de
la communication
AgroParisTech
16, rue Claude Bernard - 75231 Paris Cedex 05
Tél : 00 33 1 44 08 16 03 - Fax : 00 33 1 44 08 16 00
isabelle.caillard@agroparistech.fr
The participants will receive a participation form on
demand.
Teachers :
The Courses on
Molecular Gastronomy are given by Hervé This (and possibly some other
professors of AgroParisTech).
Educational method:
The main idea
is to use practical experiments related to culinary transformations as a way to
introduce new concepts and information: mathematics, physics, chemistry, microbiology…
The best is
when an experimental observation is done (in an experiment done during the
Course by participants). A model is then discussed, and the experimental method
is shown.
An encyclopedic
way of explaining science should be avoided. The necessary ideas, concepts and
information will be given only when needed.
For each
experiment, chemical and physical interpretations are given. Calculation will
be done only when necessary. However, the interest of the quantitative approach
will be demonstrated at any step, even for the public of Level 1.
Courses will
aim at giving data in four main area : information, methods, anecdotes,
philosophy
Eeach year, the main topic will be changed, in order to make new courses
and integrate explictly the results of scientific works done in the Molecular
Gastronomy Laboratory and elsewhere.
In 2004-2005, the
topic was « Sauces and dishes made from them »
En 2005-2006, the
topic was « Cooking methods »
En 2006-2007, the
topic was « Consistency and texture»
En
2007-2008, the topic was « (Culinary)
Science, technology, technique : which relations? »
In 2008-2009, the
topic will be « Culinary precisions: what do they teach us today? »
En 2009-2010, the
topic will be « Culinary definitions »
In 2010-2011,
the topic will be « Cooking vegetables »
3.4. The monthly innovation on the internet
site of Pierre
Gagnaire
Each month, an application of Molecular Gastronomy is
proposed by Hervé This, and Pierre Gagnaire
is answering with one to four applications of it:
http://www.pierre-gagnaire.com/francais/cdmodernite.htm
3.5. The Molecular Gastronomy Workshops
Workshops around cooking for schools, colleges, etc.
http://crdp.ac-paris.fr/index.htm?url=d_arts-culture/gout-intro.htm
What they are:
In a frame
defined by a collaborative convention signed the 14 March 2002 between the
Minister of Public Education and the President of INRA, events are organized in
all parts of France
on « Teaching culinary techniques ».
There
educational sessions need a professor in science and a professor of culinary
art to organize with students sessions where old wives tales, and more generally
culinary precisions are tested.
Why the
Molecular Gastronomy Workshops?
These sessions
are helpful because they correct mistakes that were taught in previous
curriculum. They are also useful to introduce some research activity in the
culinary curriculum, in particular during technology classes, but also during
practical sessions.
Research is
important because it contributes to the improvement of the work done by
teachers as well as by students. For teachers, it gives new and fresh
knowledge. For students, it shows that knowledge is always moving, never still,
and that doubting of it gives clues for innovation.
3.6. The Club 05 of Molecular
Gastronomy
A new « science communication » method for the efficient
transmission of Molecular gastronomy results in the industry.
3.7. The Institute for Advanced Studies in Gastronomy HEG
The Institute for Advanced
Studies in Gastronomy is a new educational tool, high level, for people
from all countries (courses both in French and in English).
www.heg-gastronomie.com
3.8.The Ateliers
expérimentaux du goût (Flavour Experimental Sessions)
These sessions were designed for schools
(prototypes were done for 6 years old children). Since 2001, they are
introduced in all French schools.
See
http://crdp.ac-paris.fr/index.htm?url=d_arts-culture/gout-intro.htm
3.9.The Ateliers Science & Cuisine (Science
and Cooking Sessions)
The same sessions but now for colleges.
4. Annexes
Prehistory and history of Molecular Gastrononomy
|
Phase
|
Date
|
Event
|
Educational Applications
|
Technological Applications
|
|
Prehistory
|
IIIrd century
|
London
papyrus on meat fermentation
|
|
|
|
XVII th century
|
Denis Papin and his
« digestor », in order to make stocks from bones
|
|
|
|
Before 1783
|
Antoine Laurent
de Lavoisier, study of meat stock
|
|
|
|
1790 and later
|
Rumford studies
|
On the
Constuction of Kitchen Fireplaces and Kitchen Ustensils together with Remarks
and Observations relating to the various Processes of Cookery and Proposals
for improving that most useful Art (1794).
|
|
|
1847
|
|
Justus von Liebig and the New Letters on Chemistry
|
|
|
1870
|
Chevreul studies on vegetable cooking,
|
|
|
|
1907
|
|
|
Production of liquid nitrogen ice cream at the Royal
Institution, London
|
|
From the 1920’s to the 1950’s
|
Edouard de Pomiane and
« gastrotechnie »
|
More than 20 books (best sellers in France),
Radio programmes…
|
|
|
1969
|
Experiments by Nicholas Kurti
|
Nicholas Kurti : lecture The
physicist in the kitchen at the Royal Institution, London
|
|
|
1980
|
First experiments by Hervé This
|
|
|
|
1986
|
|
Harold McGee, On Food and Cooking, The Curious Cook
|
|
|
Creation
|
1988 (March ?), Pour la
Science, rue Férou, Paris
|
Hervé
This : Molecular Gastronomy
Nicholas
Kurti : Molecular and Physical Gastronomy
|
|
|
|
200
History
|
1990
|
Harold
McGee’s experiment for his new book
|
Harold
McGee, The Curious Cook
|
|
|
1995
|
Creation
of the first Laboratory for Molecular Gastronomy, Collège de France
|
PhD “La gastronomie
moléculaire et physique, Université Paris VI
|
Invention of Chocolat
Chantilly
|
|
1998
|
Peter
Barham’s experiments on cakes, liquid nitrogen…
|
|
|
|
1999
|
|
Beginning of the Journées françaises de gastronomie
moléculaire (every year)
|
|
|
2000
|
First entire lab for MG,
INRA Monthly Séminaires de gastronomie
moléculaire
|
Introduction of the Ateliers
expérimentaux du goût in schools
|
|
|
2001
|
Experiments
by Thorvald Pedersen, Copenhagen University
|
Ateliers de gastronomie moléculaire in culinary schools
|
|
|
2002
|
|
New
curriculum for culinary schools in Quebec, Canada
|
Beginning
of the INICON technology transfer programme, European Union
|
|
2003
|
|
New
French Curriculum for culinary schools
|
Introduction
of the terminology « cuisine moléculaire/ molecular cooking »
in order to fight the application of « molecular gastronomy » to
what the chefs do.
|
|
2004
|
Professorship
on Molecular Gastronomy, Copenhagen,
Denmark
|
Foundation of the Institut des hautes études du goût, de la
gastronomie et des arts de la table
|
Definition of Culinary
Constructivism
|
|
2005
|
Public
and free Courses on Molecular Gastronomy, Paris
|
Creation
of the Association of MG of Switzerland Creation of the Association of MG of Argentina
|
|
|
2006
|
|
Creation
of the Association of MG in Cuba Fondation
Science et Culture Alimentaire, Academy of Sciences Creation of the first
Regional Centre of the Fondation Science & Culture Alimentaire :
Franche Comté
|
|
Some restaurants which display molecular cooking,
or constructivis cooking, or note by note cooking :
In France :
- Mr Biazolo : "Une auberge en
Gascogne" (9 faubourg Corné,
47220 Astaffort , Tel:
05 53 67 10 27)
- Jean Michel
Bouvier : Restaurant "L'essentiel" à Chambéry
- Thomas Cabrol : Restaurant
Alter Ego, Labruguière, Thomas.cabrol@prodegustation.com,
www.prodegustation.com,,
tel : 0 820 82 10 20 06 63 53 05 62
- Roland Chanliaux, Jardin
des remparts, lejardin@club-internet.fr , tel : 03 80 24 79 41, 10 rue de l'Hôtel-dieu, 21200 Beaune
- Jean Chauvel : Les magnolias, Contact@lesmagnolias.com
, tel :(33-1) 48.72.47.43, 48
avenue de Bry,94170,Le Perreux sur Marne,
- Jacques Décoret : Restaurant
Jacques Decoret, 7 avenue de Gramont, 03200, Vichy, Jacques.decoret@wanadoo.fr
, tel : 04 70 97 65 06,
- Gérard Dehaye : Restaurant
Elisabeth, 5 Rue du Général de Gaulle, 67730 La Vancelle. Tél : 03 88 57 90 61. www.hotel-elisabeth.fr
- David Faure : Restaurant
Aphrodite, 10 Bd Dubouchage 06000 Nice. Tel : 04 93 85 63 53. Site
Internet : www.restaurant-aphrodite.com.
Particularité : soirées à thème autour de la cuisine "
moléculaire "
- Pierre Gagnaire :
Restaurants Pierre
Gagnaire, Paris ; Gaya, Paris ; Pierre Gagnaire à Tokyo, Tokyo ;
Sketch, Londres ; Pierre Gagnaire à Hong Kong, Hong Kong. Particularité : Pierre Gagnaire ne fait ni Cuisine moléculaire,
ni Cuisine Note à Note, ni Constructivisme culinaire ; il fait du Pierre
Gagnaire.
- Christèle Gendre : Restaurant Chez Léna et Mimile,
32 rue Tournefort, 75005 Paris,
christelegendre@free.fr ,01 47 07 72 47.
Particularité : Cuisine
note à note
- Noël Gutrin : Restaurants du Futuroscope,
Parc du futuroscope, BP
2000,86130,Jaunay-Clan, ngutrin@futuroscope.fr. Tel : 05 49 49 53 38,
- Akrame Benallal :
Restaurant Notaboo, Château des Sept Tours 37330 Courcelles
de Touraine (D34)- tél. 02 47 24 69 75 www.7tours.com
- Jean Pierre Jacob ! Hôtel-restaurant
"Ombremont"
- Emile Jung !
Restaurant Le crocodile ; Strasbourg
- Jérôme Laurent :
Le Cilantro ;
31 Porte de Laure, 13200 Arles ; infocilantro@aol.com,
04 90
18 25 05
- Fabien Lefebvre :
L´Octopus, 12 Rue Boieldieu, 34500
Beziers
- Lionel Lévy : Restaurant " une table
au sud ", 2 quai du port
13002 Marseille.
- Nicolas Magie de
La Cape (Cenon ; 33)
- Thierry Marx ! Restaurant
Château Cordeillanbages,
Route des Châteaux 33250 Pauillac, T4marx@aol.com ou ctarisalos@cordeillanbages.com,
tel : 05 56 59 24 24
- Olivier Nasti : Le Chambard, Kaysersberg
- Alain Périllat : Restaurant
Atmosphères, Le Bourget du lac. Particularité : propose des écumes,
des gelées chaudes.
- Laurent Petit : Restaurant
"Le Clos des Sens" à Annecy. Particularité : sert entre
autres de l'huile d'olive cryogénisée et aussi la tartiflette
déstructurée.
- Michel Rochedy : "Le Chabichou"
- Bruno
Viala : B&B Agitateur culinaire, 23 avenue Saint Exupéry, Ozoir
la Ferrière. Tel : 06 98 28 61 08. email : vialabruno@gmail.com. Particularité :
activité « traiteur » autour des techniques nouvelles.
- Restaurant La
Bleuetière, 68 Av des ternes 75017 Paris. Tél 01 44 09 70 07
- Grégoire Rousseau : Restaurant
"La Cuisine de Grégoire", rue de la Sagesse,
Périgueux
- Marc Veyrat : La Maison de Marc Veyrat 13, vieille
route des Pensières
74290 Veyrier du Lac France Tel. : (33) 4 50 60 24 00/Fax : (33) 4 50 60
23 63 http://www.marcveyrat.fr/francais/INTRO.FLA_content.html - David Zuddas : L’Auberge de la Charme, 12, rue de la Charme - 21370 Prenois
Tel : 03.80.35.32.84 - Fax : 03.80.35.34.48 - Samuel Desjobert : Eskis, 11 rue
Chavanne, 690001 Lyon. Email: http://www.eskis-restaurant.com,
tel : 04 78 27 86 93.
-
And
also :
Jean-Pierre
Battin, Lycée Hôtelier de Challes les Eaux
Germany
Australia
Belgium :
- Sang-Hoon Degeimbre : Restaurant L’air du temps , doma8325@airdutemps.be , Chaussée de
Louvain, 181, 5310 Noville-sur-Méhaigne
(Eghezée), 081 81 30 48
- Anthony
Delhasse : Hostellerie
du Postay, Rue Laurent
Mairlot, 22. 4860 Wegnez Pepinster, 087 461 477
Hostellerie.postay@skynet.be
Canada
Chile
Spain
- Andoni Luis Aduriz
: Restaurant Mugaritz,mugaritz@euskalnet.net (Tabula@hotmail.com) aluisaduriz@mugaritz.com, Otzazulueta
BaserriaAldura aldea, 20 zk,
Orereta,20100,Gipuzkoa (Espagne), 943 522 455 ou 943 518 343 http://www.mugaritz.com/
- Ferran et Albert Adria :
El Bulli, Cala
Montjoi, Ap 3017480, Girona. Particularités : Ferran a dit longtemps faire de la
technologie, mais il déclare maintenant ne plus faire de cuisine
moléculaire, mais de l’art culinaire.
- Juan Mari Arzak :
San Sebastián
- Cesar Hernandez
: Tierra
Linda, C/ Barbara de Braganza, 2, 28004
Madrid, 91 310 65 48
- Miguel Sánchez Romera : L’Esguard, Passatge de
Alzines 16, 08392 Sant Andreu de Llavaneres, Barcelona
- Segio
y Javier Torres( they are brothers.
Gastrovac) : El
Racó de Can Fabes (/El Rodat (placed in Javea), El Raco de
Can Fabes, Sant Joan 6. 08470 Sant Celoni. España
- Javier
Andrés : La Sucursal, Instituto
Valenciano de Arte Moderno, Avda. Guillem de Castro 118 / 46003 Valencia
(Valencia)
- Jordi
Vilà : Alkimia, Industria,
79, 08025
Barcelona, http://www.bcninternet.com/es/restaurante_detalle.php?contentid=1169
- Carles Abellan : http://www.comerc24.com/
- Jordi Butrón : Barcelona , http://www.espaisucre.com/
USA
- Eric Torralba: Sausalito, CA , http://www.anti-dote.com/
- Shea Gallante : New York, NY, http://cru-nyc.com/
- David Burke : New York, NY, http://www.dbdrestaurant.com/
- Paul Liebrandt : New York, NY, http://www.giltnewyork.com/
- Jose Andres : Washington, DC, http://www.cafeatlantico.com/miniBar/miniBar.htm
- Richard Blais : Atlanta, GA , http://www.onemidtownkitchen.com/
- Pino Maffeo : Boston MA, http://www.louisboston.com/
- James George : Hoboken, NJ, http://www.venue-restaurant.com/
- Wylie
Dufresne : Wd~50, 50
Clinton Street, New York, NY 10002, http://www.wd-50.com/
- Homaro Cantu :
Moto, 945
w. Fulton Market, Chicago, il 60607, http://www.motorestaurant.com/flash/index.html
- Grant
Achantz : Alinea, 1723 North Halsted, Chicago Illinois, 60614 http://www.alinearestaurant.com/
- Will Goldfarb : New York, goldfarb.will@gmail.com (212) 941-5405 http://www.nyr4d.com/
UK
Italy
Japan
Marocco
- Pierre-Olivier Petit : café M et la cuisine centrale de l'hotel
Hyatt Regency de Casablanca. Tel :
00 212 6 30 87 747:
Portugal
- Victor
Hipolito : Verbasco ,Quinta
Marinha (Cascais)
- Ljubomir
Stanisic : 100 Maneiras (at least this chef has shown interest on
molecular gastronomy as far asPaulina Mata, Professora e investigadora do
Centro de Química Fina e Biotecnologia da Universidade Nova de Lisboa e
INETI, says)
Switzerland
- Denis et Clara Martin : Restaurant
Denis Martin, rue du Château 2 , 1800,Vevey (Suisse), chateau2@bluewin.ch , tel : 021
921 12 10/021 921 45 52. Particularité : Le goût par le
goût, c’est-à-dire trouver un goût pur en mélangeant 2, 3 éléments
- Astrid et Jean-Yves Drevet : Restaurant La Maison du
Prussien, Au Gor du Vauseyon, 2000 Neuchatel info@hotel-prussien.ch
Singapour
Urugay
- Esteban Brioso : Mika - cocina de los sentidos, Juan
Zorrilla de San Martin 285, Punta Carretas. Montevideo - Uruguay reservas@mika.com.uy
4.3.
List of companies where
additives, flavour preparations, colorants and hardware can be bought.
Please note that I (H. This) am not involved in the
companies given below. I do not accept any money from them. This list is given
only because I want to contribute to some renewal of culinary activities.
|
Products
|
Companies
|
Use
|
Do they sell to
chefs?
|
|
pH reducer
|
|
|
|
|
Citric acid (E330)
|
Cerestar SA
Produits
Roche
Cooper
(distributeur DSM Nutritional Products)
|
pH reducer
|
No
no
|
|
Fumaric acid (E297)
|
Lonza
|
pH reducer
|
No
|
|
Lactic acid (E270)
|
Arnaud
|
pH reducer
|
Yes
|
|
Orthophosphoric acid (E338)
|
Merck Clevenot
|
pH reducer
|
Yes
|
|
Calcium citrate (E333)
|
Merck Clevenot
|
pH reducer
|
Yes
|
|
Potassium citrate (E332)
|
Merck Clevenot
|
pH reducer
|
Yes
|
|
Sodium citrates (E331)
|
Cerestar SA
Merck
Clevenot
Produits
Roche
|
pH reducer
|
No
No
No
|
|
Glucono-delta-lactone
(E 575)
|
Roquettes
frères
|
pH reducer
|
Yes
|
|
Calcium
lactate (E327)
|
Arnaud SA
Merck
Clevenot
|
pH reducer
|
Yes
No
|
|
Sodium
lactate (E325)
|
Arnaud SA
Merck
Clevenot
|
pH reducer
|
Yes
No
|
|
Charge agent
|
|
|
|
|
Polyhdextrose
(E 1200)
|
Arnaud SA
|
Charge agent
|
Yes
|
|
Modified starch
|
|
|
|
|
Adipate of di-starch acetylated (E 1422)
|
Roquettes
frères
|
Modified
starch
|
Yes
|
|
Acetylated
starch (E1420)
|
Roquette
frères
|
Modified
starch
|
Yes
|
|
Di starch
phosphate (E 1412)
|
Roquettes
frères
|
Modified starch
|
Yes
|
|
Antioxygen
|
|
|
|
|
Ascorbic
acid (E300)
|
BASF
Merck Clevenot
Pfizer Food Science
Produits
Roche
Cooper
|
Antioxigen
|
No
No
No
No
Yes
|
|
Erythrobic
acid (E315)
|
Pfizer
|
Antioxygen
|
No
|
|
Calcium
ascorbate (E304)
|
Danisco
Ingredients
Merck
Clevenot
Produits
Roche
|
Antioxygen
|
No
No
No
|
|
Sodium
ascorbate (E301)
|
BASF
Merck Clevenot
Pfizer Food Science
Produits Roche
|
Antioxygen
|
No
No
No
|
|
Tartric acid
(E334)
|
VWF
Louis
François
Thiercelin
SA
|
ANtioxygen
|
Yes
yes
|
|
Colorant
|
|
|
|
|
B-apo-8’-carotenal (E160f)
|
BASF
Produits Roche
Cooper
|
Colorant
|
No
No
Yes
|
|
b-carotène (E160a)
|
BASF
Produits Roche
Cooper
|
Colorant
|
No
No
Yes
|
|
Caramels (E150a, b, c, d)
|
Arnaud
Nigay
|
Colorant
|
Yes
Yes
|
|
Miscellaneous
|
Signatures
|
colorants
|
yes
|
|
Calcium chloride
(E509)
|
Merck-Clevenot
Hoechst
|
Misc
|
No
No
|
|
Sweeteners
|
|
|
|
|
Isomalt
(E953)
|
Palatinit
|
Sweetener
|
No
|
|
Lactitol
(E966)
|
Arnaud
|
Sweetener
|
Yes
|
|
Sorbitol
(E420)
|
Cerestar
Roquette
|
Sweetener
|
No
yes
|
|
Surfactants
|
|
|
|
|
Lecithines
(E322)
|
Arnaud
Lucas Meyer
|
Surfactant
|
Yes
No
|
|
Karaya gum
(E416)
|
CNI
|
Surfactant
|
No
|
|
Tara Gum (E
417)
|
Hoechst
|
Surfactant
|
No
|
|
Caroub flour
(E410)
|
Arnaud
CNI
Danisco
Rhodia (danisco)
SBI
|
Surfactant
|
Yes
No
No
No
no
|
|
Guar flour
(E412)
|
Arnaud
CNI
Danisco
Rhodia (danisco)
SBI
|
Surfactant
|
No
No
No
No
No
|
|
Adragant gum
(E413)
|
CNI
|
Surfactant
|
No
|
|
Arabic gum
(E414)
|
CNI
|
surfactant
|
No
|
|
Xanthan gum
(E415)
|
Kelco
Rhodia (danisco)
SBI
ISP
|
Surfactant
|
No
No
No
yes
|
|
Sucroesters
(E473)
|
Stéarinerie
Dubois
|
Surfactant
|
Yes
|
|
Gelling agents
|
|
|
|
|
Agar-agar
(E406)
|
CNI
Iberagar SA
ISP
Kalys
PCB
Futuroscope
|
Gelling
agent
|
No
Yes
Yes
Yes
yes
Yes
|
|
Calcium
alginate (E404)
|
Iberagar SA
Danisco
SBI
ISP
Kalys
|
Gelling
agent
|
Yes
No
No
Yes
yes
|
|
Potassium
alginate (E402)
|
Danisco
SBI
ISP
Kalys
|
Gelling
agent
|
No
No
Yes
yes
|
|
Sodium
alginate (E 401)
|
Danisco
Kelco
SBI
Iberagar
ISP
Kalys
PCB
Futuroscope
|
Gelling
agent
|
No
No
No
Yes
Yes
Yes
yes
|
|
Carboxymethylcellulose
(E466)
|
Hoechst
|
Gelling
agent
|
no
|
|
Carraghenans
(E407)
|
CNI
Danisco
SBI
Iberagar
ISP
Kalys
PCB
|
Gelling
agent
|
No
No
No
Yes
Yes
yes
|
|
Gellan gum
(E418)
|
Kelco
ISP
|
Gelling
agent
|
|
|
Pectin
(E440)
|
Danisco
SBI
|
Gelling
agent
|
Yes
|
|
Guar gum
|
ISP
|
|
Yes
|
|
Tara gum
|
ISP
|
|
Yes
|
|
Caroub gum
|
ISP
|
|
Yes
|
|
Konjac
|
ISP
|
|
Yes
|
|
Arabic gum
|
ISP
|
|
Yes
|
|
Adragant gum
|
ISP
PCB
|
|
Yes
yes
|
|
Karaja gum
|
ISP
PCB
|
|
Yes
yes
|
|
Hardware
|
|
|
Yes
|
|
Filtration
devices
|
VWR
Bioblock
|
Filtration
|
Yes
yes
|
|
Ultrasonic
devices
|
VWR
Bioblock
|
Emulsification
|
Yes
yes
|
|
Grinder
|
VWR
Bioblock
|
Grinding
|
Yes
yes
|
|
Centrifugation
|
VWR
Bioblock
|
Centrifugation
|
Yes
|
|
Thermostat
|
Bioblock
VWR
|
Low
temperature cooking
|
Yes
Yes
|
|
pH-metry
|
Bioblock
VWR
|
Vegetable cooking, etc.
|
Yes
yes
|
|
Conductimetry
|
Bioblock
VWR
|
Emulsion controls
|
Yes
yes
|
|
Lyophilisation
|
Bioblock
VWR
|
Many new dishes
|
Yes
yes
|
|
Temperature measurements
|
Bioblock
VWR
|
Precise
production processes
|
Yes
yes
|
|
Mixing
|
Bioblock
VWR
|
|
Yes
yes
|
|
Mass
measurement
|
Bioblock
VWR
|
Any precise
cooking process
|
Yes
yes
|
|
Hardware for liquid nitrogen use
|
Bioblock
VWR
Air liquide
|
Sherbets, ice creams
|
Yes
Yes
yes
|
|
Solvent evaporator
|
Bioblock
VWR
|
Production of stocks and brews
|
Yes
yes
|
|
Distillation
|
Bioblock
VWR
|
Recovery of odorant molecules
|
Yes
yes
|
|
Flux control
|
Bioblock
VWR
|
Production of controlled foams and emulsions
|
Yes
yes
|
|
Pumps
|
Fritted
|
Production of controlled foams and emulsions
|
Yes
|
|
pH paper
|
VWR
Bioblock
|
|
|
|
Liquid nitrogen
|
L’Air
liquide
|
Sherbet and ice cream
|
yes
|
|
More generally, almost all hardware sold in books by
lab hardware producers can be useful in the kitchen
|
Bioblock
VWR
|
All culinary processes…and more!
|
|
|
Flavors
|
|
|
|
|
Flavors
|
Thiercelin
SA
Sevarome
Pebeyre
Cosmosaromatica
René Laurent
Taste Development
Signature
Baube-Aralco
Givaudan
Sevarome
Concept’arôme
Selectal
|
|
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Samples
Yes
Yes
yes
|
|
Other
interesting products for chefs
|
|
|
|
|
Polyphenols
|
Ferco
Société
française de distillerie
Diana
Ingrédients
|
Provinols
(35 euros/100 g ; 20-1000 g)
Apple
extracts
Wine extract
|
Yes
Yes
Samples
Samples
|
|
Meat extracts
|
Diana
|
|
Samples
|
|
Vegetables extracts
|
Diana
|
|
Samples
|
|
Inulin
|
ISP
|
|
Yes
|
|
Dextrin
|
ISP
|
|
Yes
|
|
Fibers
|
ISP
|
|
yes
|
|
Lyophilized cocoa fat
|
Barry Caillbebaut
|
|
|
Additifs, matériels, formations et conseils :
Cuisine Innovation,
contact Anne Cazor
06 11 80 40 45.
Email : cuisineinnovation@cuisine-innovation.fr
Air Liquide :
Pascale Vieuxtemps
Chef de marché
Agro-alimentaire/pharmacie
Tel.: 01 40 94 59 74
E-mail: pascale.vieuxtemps@airliquide.com
Arômes Sélectal :
Selectal@selectal.mc, 3 rue de l’industrie, BP 622 98013, Monaco cedex. Tel : +377 92 05 75 06
Baube-aralco
(arômes alimentaires) :
groupe
Sevarome-Baube-Aralco, ZI La
Marinière, 34 rue Gutenberg, BP 32 91071,
Bondoufle cedex
Concept' Arôme :
Jean Jacques Obringer
concept@conceptarome.fr
Cooper
(distributeur DSM Nutritional Products) :
Tel : 01 64 87 20 10
christophe.raffet@cooper.fr
Diana
Ingrédients :
BP 15, 35560
Antrain. Tel : 02 99 98 40 77. Contact : Alain Fournet, afournet@diana-naturals.com
Ferco :
Quartier Viressac,
07220, Saint Montan.
Tel : 04 75 52 57 27
Futuroscope :
Nicolas Krémer, nkremer@futuroscope.fr
Iberagar :
Estrada Nacional‚ 10 km 18 ; P-2830-411, Coina , Portugal. Tel : +351 21
210 92 50/+34 914 117 911/+351 21 210 92 55/+ 34 91 562 46 45. Contact : Peter
Salling psalling@afina.es or Rafael Vela, rafaelv@afina.pt
ISP,
International Speciality Products .
Tel : +33 1 49 90 58 00. Contact Mrs Femia
or Mr Olivier
Kalys SA :
10, rue du Chemin de fer, Centre d'Affaires Lebas, 59100 Roubais France.
info@kalys.comTel
: +33 (0)3 20 36 30 36 Fax : +33 (0)3 20 36 31 10
Louis François, 106 av
Gén Leclerc, 94100, Saint Maur des fossés, 01
49 76 51 80 ou 01 49 76 36 42.
Nigay SA
nigay.sa@wanadoo.fr, ZI de la gare, La féculerie, BP2 , 42110 Feurs. Tel : 04 77 26 21 33.
Contact : Yves Nigay
PCB
Création :
http://www.pcb-creation.fr
Pebeyre
René
Laurent :
107,
avenue Franklin Roosevelt, 06117, Le Cannet cedex. Tel : 04 93 69 27 27
Sevarome :
info@sevarome.com, ZA La Guide, BP8, 43201,
Yssingeaux cedex. Tel : 04 71 59 04 78
Signatures : BP 800-23,13791Aix
en Provence cedex 3, tel : 04 42 90 84.C Contact : Frédéric Poitou
SNIAA
(syndicat des fabricants d’arômes) :
sniaa@worldnet.fr, 89 rue du Faubourg
Saint-Honoré, 75008,
Paris. Tel : 01 52 65
09 65
Société française de distilleries :
BP 47,
07150 Vallon Pont d’Arc,
tel : +33 1 75 88 02 18. Contact David Ageron, d-ageron@france-distilleries.com.
Stéarinerie
Dubois, tel :+33 1 46 10 07 30. l.halbeisen@stearinerie-dubous.fr
Synpa :
41 bis avenue La Tour Maubourg, F75007 Paris (France). Tel +33 1 4062 25 80
Taste
Development taste@skynet.be Chaussée de Tubize, 571440, Wauthier-Braine Belgique. Contact : Arnaud
de Beukelaer, + 32 2 366 27 47
Thiercelin
Jean-Marie Thiercelin jmthiercelin@tradimpex-jmthiercelin.fr 01
45 93 02 32 ou 01 44 78 96 74
|
Books
|
|
|
Books for new dishes
|
Innover avec
les ingrédients, 10.000 produits et 1300 fournisseurs (ed. 2005),
English/French, De Reynal Béatrice
Paperback 236 pp. 22x28.5 2004
|
|
Books for a better knowledge of ingredients
|
Mc Gee, Harold, On
Food and Cooking, 1986, Unwin Paperbacks,
Mc Gee, Harold, On
Food and Cooking, 2004, Scribner, New York
|
|
Food Science (advanced)
|
Food
Chemistry, M. Belitz and M. Grosch, Springer Verlag.
|
|
Molecular
Gastronomy
|
This, Hervé,
Molecular Gastronomy, 2002, Columbia
University Press, New York
This, Hervé,
Kitchen Mysteries, 1993, Columbia
University Press, New York
This, Hervé
and Pierre Gagnaire, Cooking, a
quintessential art, , 1993, California University Press, New York
This, Hervé,
Traité élémentaire de cuisine, 2002,
Belin, Paris
This, Hervé,
La casserole des enfants, 1998,
Belin, Paris
This, Hervé,
Révélations gastronomiques, 1995,
Belin, Paris
This, Hervé,
Construisons un repas, Odile Jacob, Paris
This Hervé,
Les secrets de la casserole, Belin, Paris
This Hervé,
Casseroles et éprouvettes, Belin, Paris
This Hervé,
De la science aux fourneaux, Belin, Paris
This Hervé
et Pierre Gagnaire, Alchimistes aux fourneaux, Flammarion, Paris
Blanc, Raymond, Kurti, Nicholas, This, Hervé, Blanc Mange, 1994, BBC Books, Londres
McGee, Harold, The
curious Cook, 1990, North Point Press,
Gardiner, Anne,
Wilson, Sue, The Inquisitive Cook,
1998, with the Exploratorium, Henry
Holt and Co, New York
Seelig, Tina, The
epicurean laboratory, 1991, Freeman and Co,
Kurti, Nicholas (ed.), But the crackling is superb, 1988, Adam Hilger,
Barham , Peter, The science of cooking, 2001, Springer Verlag, Berlin
Wolke, Robert L, What Einstein told to his cook, 2002, Norton, New York
Corriher, Shirley, CookWise, 1997., Morrow, New York
Viestad, Andreas, Hvordan Koke Vann, Cappelen.
Molekylær gastronomi, Thorvald Pedersen, Nyt Nordisk
Forlag (Arnold Busck) 2008 (in danish)
|
|
Internet
sites
|
|
|
Technology transfer
|
http://www.pierre-gagnaire.com
http://www.inicon.net
|
|
Information on Molecular Gastronomy
|
http://www.mli.kvl.dk/foodchem/Molekylaerfiler/MGHThis.pdf
|
|
Courses on Modern Gastronomy
|
http://www.iheggat.com/
|
|
Reports of
the monthly Séminaires de gastronomie moléculaire
|
http://www.sfc.fr/
http://www.chefsimon.com
http://scienceetgastronomie.com
|
|
Syndicat des
producteurs d’additifs alimentaires
|
www.synpa.org
|
|
Syndicat
national de l’industrie des arômes alimentaires (SNIAA)
|
|
4.4. If you want to know more about
Molecular Gastronomy :
http://w3appli.u-strasbg.fr/canalc2/video.asp?idEvenement=312
http://www.canalu.fr/canalu/chainev2/utls/vHtml/0/programme/63/canalu/affiche/
http://indico.lal.in2p3.fr/conferenceDisplay.py?confId=358
http://webtv.ac-versailles.fr/
http://webtv.ac-versailles.fr/index.php?page=plien01&pagem=menu&ID=334
http://webtv.ac-versailles.fr/index.php?page=plien01&pagem=menu&ID=333
http://webtv.ac-versailles.fr/index.php?page=plien01&pagem=menu&ID=332
http://webtv.ac-versailles.fr/index.php?page=plien01&pagem=menu&ID=331
- Some articles in La cuisine
collective:
http://www.la-cuisine-collective.fr/dossier/this/articles.asp
- Master Class in Molecular
Mixology :
http://www.bolscocktails.com/home.asp
-
Science
et gastronomie, Pour la Science : http://www.pourlascience.fr
-
La
cuisine collective : http://www.la-cuisine-collective.com
-
L’Hôtellerie :
http://www.lhotellerie.fr (avec
notamment un forum)
-
Cocina
Futuro :
;)
Hervé THIS
Entretiens
avec Marie-Odile Monchicourt
CONSTRUISONS
UN REPAS
BELIN • POUR LA SCIENCE
BIBLIOTHÈQUE SCIENTIFIQUE
B
ELIN •
Hervé This
Hervé This De la science aux
fourneaux
De la science aux fourneaux
Par Hervé This
La science peut-elle contribuer aux progrès de
la cuisine? Certainement,
puisqu’elle en explore les effets et en révèle les mystères:
viandes,
poissons, légumes, sauces, fruits, fromages, gâteaux, meringues,
cocktails, etc. Rien n’échappe à l’analyse… laquelle conduit à
des
propositions de rénovation de la pratique culinaire. Chaque
geste technique,
chaque transformations des ingrédients, met en oeuvre des
réactions
chimiques ou physiques, que décode la discipline scientifique
nommée
gastronomie moléculaire. Même la composante artistique gagne à
s’allier
avec la science, qui révèle notamment des mécanismes de
physiologie
sensorielle.
Cet ouvrage explore les bases de la pratique culinaire. À la
clé, il nous fait
découvrir une cuisine encore plus moderne: abstraite, futuriste…
qui n’oublie
pas que l’objectif de la cuisine est de rendre les convives
heureux!
Avec Pierre Gagnaire :
Alchimistes aux fourneaux, Editions
Flammarion