A five hours journey, an eight-hour wait and we are finally here!

The first sight that greeted me after the arduous boat ride from Nuiweiba was not really a pretty one - phosphate factories, heavy trucks chugging painfully along the coastal road.

The sight at the Aqueba port was equally depressing. After a long trek from the ship to the immigration building, we were hustled into a waiting area for the processing of our visa. Expecting a stern scowling officer to deride us with a barricade of questions, we were pleasantly surprised to see a beaming officer welcoming us with open arms: Welcome to Jordan - "the Land of Smiles."

A short ride on a derelict cab brought us to downtown Aqueba. Immediately, my senses were pervaded by the cacophonous of sounds and the scent of spices. The demanding boat ride took its toil on us; we were utterly exhausted and disorientated and we checked into the first budget hotel we trudged to. That was a grave mistake ? we had checked ourselves into a furnace! The fan could do little to dissipate the suffocating heat, the small windows served to exacerbate the problems by trapping the warm air and the walls functioned like the glass panels of the greenhouse.

One of the greatest experiences in Aqueba is to soak into the radiant glow of the setting sun while sipping a cup of coffee on the beach. We chose a table that was partially submerged in the water. It was a peculiar feeling to be having a drink with the warm waters of the Red Sea lapping on our legs. Maybe it was the ambience, maybe it was the location, but the hue of the settling sun seemed especially seductive in this part of the world. It lingered over the horizon, like a reluctant friend, beckoning for us to join him.

It was just a few minutes before sunset when he came up. He was a well-built Arab man of about 6 feet draped in traditional Jordanian garb. Without waiting for an invitation or an introduction, he started chatting with us. Naturally, we were apprehensive of his motives but his sincerity and his earnest way of talking began to wear off our unease. Apparently, he just wanted to practice his English and he loved chatting to tourist about his country. This is indeed one man with a deep affection for his homeland.

A visit to Aqueba will also be incomplete without a snorkeling or diving trip to explore the spectacular marine life that thrives in the Red Sea. I was fortunate to have the company of a gregarious Norwegian couple who were sharing with me some interesting anecdotes on their travel in Iran and Yemen. They were over 60 years old but they seemed to possess boundless energy and have recently trekked and camped in some of the most inhospitable terrain in this region. I wonder how they managed these feats but I knew that I got the answer when I saw the sparkle in their eyes.

The boat trip had several highlights including a peek at a shipwreck through the crystalline water and the opportunity to marvel at fishes and coral of a kaleidoscope of colours and shapes. The climax of the trip however was the struggle between the boatman and a really massive fish. Our boat rocked quite violently during the 'battle' but we emerged triumphant and the trophy: a very sumptuous BBQ feast.

Hillside houses of Amman basking in the glowing rays of the sun

A four-hour ride by the Desert's Highway through the desolate Southern Jordan Desert the following day brought us to Amman, the capital of Jordan. Amman at first glance seemed like an apparition in the desert, a larger version of famed desert cities such a Timbuktu or Agadez. Numerous box-like houses cling on to the hillside. Basking in the glow of the setting sun, they appeared like gold-nuggets awaiting our discovery. Most of the attractions in Amman were remnants from the Roman Empire, such as the newly restored Roman Theatre, the Odeon, the Nymphaeum and the Citadel. Although most of the Citadel's buildings had been reduced to rubble, but it is still worth the effort to make the strenuous ascent as it offers a panoramic view of the city from this vantage point.

A short 1-hour ride from Amman brought us to the beautifully preserved Roman city of Jerash. Once we stepped into the walled city, we were transported back 1000 years in time to bask in the glory of the Roman Empire. The battle cries, the pounding of horses, the triumphant roars resonated from the wall. The triumphal arch is the first sight to greet us. Behind the arch, the vast Hippodrome conjured up images of thousands of spectators screaming wildly at the chariot races. The view at the top of the Hippodrome offers a spectacular view of the entire city. Other impressive sights include The Temple of Zeus and The Temple of Artemis. Every column, every stone seems to be etched with a piece of history from their era.

Spectacular Temple of Artemis

Our next destination is Aljun, famed for the Qalat ar Rabadh Castle. On arrival, we were rewarded with a bird's eye view of the surrounding countryside and the fertile Jordan Valley. The view is indeed astounding; we simply stood there for a long time, as we were rendered speechless by the awesome sight. Built in the 12th centuries, a large part of the castle is in ruins and is inaccessible. However the sheer size and its warren of chambers and galleries allowed us to have a good idea of its grandeur in its heyday.

A short hop brought us to the recently discovered St Elliat's Church. Judging from the Spartan remnants, we needed to have quite a vivid imagination to figure that out. We had a pleasant surprise when we stumbled onto a Bedouin family in the vicinity. Bedouins live in tents and they are basically stateless people who roam around in the deserts in this region. A simple gesture and a warm smile easily transcend the communication barriers between us.

Breathtaking view of Jordan Valley

From the eerie silence permeating the Jordan Valley, we returned to the bustle and noise of Amman. It is really difficult not to love a land that has been smiling all the time. The memories from Jordan have indeed found a special place in my heart.